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CUBA: ORIENTE

1 - 13 April 2000

by Blake Maybank

Yellow-faced Grassquit

Yellow-faced Grassquit, an attractive bird, pleasantly common throughout Cuba.
photo © Ken McKenna, 2000

In April 2000, the Nova Scotia Bird Society undertook a tour of the Cuba Oriente, the eastern mountains of Cuba. The trip was run as a fund-raiser, and more than $2000 was raised for the Society.  Our group of 12 assembled at the Halifax International Airport on the evening of March 31st. The Air Transat flight left on time, and arrived punctually in Holguin, Cuba, just over four hours later. Customs was a smooth procedure, all the baggage dutifully appeared, and we were on our buses to the hotel within an hour of arrival. Just over 60 minutes later we arrived at our Cuban base of operations, the Las Brisas resort in Guardalavaca.

[Note: For further background on the Guardalavaca area, please read my report from December 1998 (click here).  I've updated the following background information from that report.]

INDEX OF PHOTOGRAPHS:

References:

1)  --  Moon Handbooks: Cuba by Christopher P. Baker. Published by Moon Travel Handbooks.  The BEST Guidebook available.

2)  --  Field Guide to the Birds of Cuba  by Orlando H. Garrido, Arturo Kirkconnell, Roman F. Company.  Very useful.

3)  -- "A Guide to the Birds of the West Indies", 1998, by Herbert Raffaele, et al., published by Princeton University Press.  Excellent resource, although not a pocket guide.  It fit in my backpack, though, and accompanied us on our outings. 
This book now supercedes the following old standby...

4)  -- "A Field Guide to the Birds of the West Indies", by Bond, (James Bond), published by Houghton Mifflin.  A useful, but not essential, back-up reference.

Health:

We had no problems with food or water, and at all our hotels could drink safely from the taps.  No particular vaccinations or inoculations were required.

Pests:

We encountered few mosquitoes, and no chiggers.

Weather:

The temperature was in the high 20's to low 30's every day, and cooler in the evening.  Breezes along the coast were frequent, but as the drought persisted, we only had one heavy rain shower during our stay.

Safety:

We had no experience with big-city Cuban life, but in the countryside, and around the resorts in which we stayed, we experienced no problems at all.  There was essentially no begging, although in the Guardalavaca area there were some people willing to sell you cigars or sea-shells, but they weren't pushy or obnoxious.  By contrast, most people were friendly and curious.  None of us ever felt at risk.  We kept our valuables locked in our hotel-room safe, and had no troubles.

Money:

Most of the in-country tours can be paid for with credit cards, as can expenses incurred through hotels.  Getting more money from the local bank presented no difficulty.  U.S. dollars are the currency of choice in-country.  You cannot use any credit cards linked with U.S. banks, nor anything connected to American Express, including their travellers cheques.  Outside hotels it's generally cash only.

Other Recommendations:

Canadians are very much in the habit of bringing items into Cuba which are in short supply locally, and distributing them as tips to staff, or simply giving them to families or people one encounters as one roams the countryside.  T-shirts and baseball caps are frequently left behind, but children's clothing is much desired, as are school supplies (pencils, crayons, pens, paper), soap and toiletries, tampons, etc.  Even our empty plastic water bottles were welcome.  From within the hotels the extent of the shortages in the countryside isn't especially obvious, but it is real.  Take into the country as much as will fit in your suitcases, and replace it for the homeward trip with coffee, artwork, cigars, and rum.  And wonderful memories.  It seems a fair trade.

Our Day by Day Trip Experiences

April 1

We birded in the Guardalavaca area in the morning, and I worked with the Cuban in-tourist agency Cubanacan that afternoon regarding our in-country excursions we had previously arranged. I learned to my dismay that our planned overnight trip to Pinares de Mayarí would not be possible due to a local water shortage (Cuba was in a prolonged (10 month-long) drought). So, with the group's approval, I rejigged our schedule in order to continue to have two overnight trips in the first week, as one of our participants could only stay for a single week. The reorganisation meant, however, a busier than intended first few days.

In the meantime we had the Guardalavaca area to explore, and we revisited a small marsh SW of the town, and discovered rather wanting for water, although we did see a Purple Gallinule and a King Rail, and there were numerous herons and egrets about. During the course of our stay the marsh grew increasingly dry, until the water completely evaporated -- we nick-named the site the "Vanishing Marsh."

There is a large wooded ravine and mangrove to the immediate west of the village of Guardalavaca, which is protected as a small national park, due to some rare plants. Perhaps due to the drought, this was a major concentration spot for resident and overwintering birds, and repeated visits there resulted in numerous sightings, including Cuban Green Woodpecker, Worm-eating Warblers, our first of three intimate looks at a confiding Mangrove Cuckoo, and a small colony of Yellow-crowned Night-Herons. And there were always many wood warblers to attract our attention.

Cuban Woodpecker - -  Guardalavaca images  - - Eastern Kingbird

                    Cuban Woodpecker                                                                                                  Eastern Kingbird
                             photo © Ken McKenna, 2000                                                                                 photo © Ken McKenna, 2000

Mangrove Cuckoo forgetting to be secrective

A Mangrove Cuckoo forgetting to skulk
photo © Ken McKenna, 2000

Just to the east of the Las Brisas resort was a small mangrove, bisected by a gravel path, and a site just south of the path became known to us as "The Warbler Hole", wherein, especially in the two hours before dusk, many warblers could be seen flycatching for insects, including a single Oriente Warbler, who showed himself to all that were interested, with the frustrating exception of Pat, who was required to return to "The Hole" repeatedly each evening, before finally connecting with the warbler on the second last night.

This was also the spot where a few overwintering Least and Solitary Sandpipers could be seen any time of day.

The mangrove itself was a night roost for several hundred egrets and herons, mostly Cattle Egrets, but also including Great and Snowy Egrets, Yellow-crowned Night-Herons, and Little Blue Herons. We gathered on my balcony most evenings with rum drinks in hand, to watch the evening arrival flight, and see what else might be around. In this manner we also had balcony sightings of West Indian Whistling-Ducks, a Crested Caracara, and a Peregrine Falcon.

Las Brisas Resort in Guardalavaca

The Las Brisas Resort in Guardalavaca
photo © Joan Waldron, 2000

Other birds in the Guardalavaca area were noted in the following areas: along the beach to the east of the resort; in the water supply reservoir for the town; and along a limestone-surfaced trail that headed east along the coast, a path we called "The Coral Trail". This latter trail was quieter than my previous visit one year earlier, likely because of the drought.

Playa Guardalavaca -- Bird Sightings

31 March - 13 April 2000

LEGEND

# days = number of days a species was encountered.
Max = maximum daily count for species in Playa Guardalavaca.
D = species was seen/assumed to be present daily.
 
COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME # days Max COMMENTS
Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus D At Reservoir
Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis 4 -
West Indian Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna arborea 2 -
Ruddy Duck Oxyura jamaicensis D 10  At Reservoir
Tricolored Heron Egretta tricolor 4 -
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea 4 4 -
Snowy Egret Egretta thula D 30  -
Great Egret Ardea alba 4 -
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis D 200  -
Green Heron Butorides virescens 5 -
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron Nyctanassa violacea D 10  -
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura D 50  -
Crested Caracara Caracara plancus 1 Apr 1, 2000, fly-by
American Kestrel Falco sparverius D -
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 3 -
King Rail Rallus elegans 1 Apr 1, 2000
Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinicus 1 Apr 1, 2000
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus D -
American Coot Fulica americana D At Reservoir
Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca 3 -
Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria D -
Spotted Sandpiper Tringa macularia D -
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres 2 13  -
Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla D -
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus D 8 At Reservoir
Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus 1 1 Apr 6, 2000
Killdeer Charadrius vociferus D -
Laughing Gull Larus atricilla 2 -
Royal Tern Sterna maxima 4 -
Rock Dove Columba livia D 30  -
Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura D 50  -
Zenaida Dove Zenaida aurita 2 -
White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica D -
Common Ground-Dove Columbina passerina D 10  -
Mangrove Cuckoo Coccyzus minor 3 -
Great Lizard-Cuckoo Saurothera merlini 3 -
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani D 30  -
Antillean Nighthawk Chordeiles gundlachii 1 Apr 1, 2000
Antillean Palm-Swift Tachornis phoenicobia 3 -
Cuban Emerald Chlorostilbon ricordii D 10  -
Belted Kingfisher Ceryle alcyon 4 -
Cuban Green Woodpecker Xiphidiopicus percussus 3 -
Gray Kingbird Tyrannus dominicensis D 20  -
Loggerhead Kingbird Tyrannus caudifasciatus 1 Apr 11, 2000
Cuban Vireo Vireo gundlachii D -
Black-whiskered Vireo Vireo altiloquus D 20  -
Warbling Vireo Vireo gilvus 2 -
Red-legged Thrush Turdus plumbeus D 20  -
Gray Catbird Dumetella carolinensis 2 -
Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos D 50  -
Bank Swallow Riparia riparia 1 Apr 1, 2000
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 1 Apr 1, 2000
Cave Swallow Hirundo fulva 1 10  Apr 10, 2000
House Sparrow Passer domesticus D 50  -
Northern Parula Parula americana D 20  -
Yellow Warbler Dendroica petechia D 10  -
Cape May Warbler Dendroica tigrina D 100  -
Black-throated Blue Warbler Dendroica caerulescens D 30  -
Blackburnian Warbler Dendroica fusca 1 Apr 1, 2000
Yellow-throated Warbler Dendroica dominica 3 -
Prairie Warbler Dendroica discolor D -
Palm Warbler Dendroica palmarum D 10  -
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia D -
American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla D 20  -
Worm-eating Warbler Helmitheros vermivorus D -
Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapillus D -
Northern Waterthrush Seiurus noveboracensis D -
Louisiana Waterthrush Seiurus motacilla D -
Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas D -
Oriente Warbler Teretistris fornsi D -
Hooded Warbler Wilsonia citrina 2 -
Stripe-headed Tanager Spindalis zena 1 -
Cuban Grassquit Tiaris canora 1 Apr 8, 2000
Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea D 30  -
Indigo Bunting Passerina cyanea D -
Painted Bunting Passerina ciris D -
Black-cowled Oriole Icterus dominicensis 3 -
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird Agelaius humeralis D 15  -
Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna 1 -
Cuban Blackbird Dives atroviolacea D 20  -
Greater Antillean Grackle Quiscalus niger D 100  -

April 2

The entire group, less Joanne and Jack, undertook a day-long drive from Guardalavaca to Barracoa, along the coast highway (Joanne and Jack chose to forego the drive, and decided to use a helicopter to visit Barracoa on April 3rd.). It was a very pleasant drive, except for rough roads between Banes and Mayarí, and the ecological devastation around Moa, where there are several nickel mines. In the morning the best sighting was two Limpkins foraging in the open in a ploughed field. The road from Moa to Barracoa, reputed to be bad, was unpaved, but reasonable. We birded (and ate a picnic lunch) along this stretch, and some good sightings included Cuban Crows and Antillean Palm-Swifts.

Lunch stop at Rio Nibujon en route to Barracoa

Lunch at Rio Nibujonen enroute to Barracoa
photo © Blake Maybank, 2000

That evening, before supper, we birded along the Rio Toa, and encountered heavy rain showers, but it was a warm rain. We found an Eastern/Western Wood-Pewee that refused to call, leaving its specific identity a mystery -- either species is very rare in Cuba.

In Barracoa we stayed at the Castillo Hotel, very decent, and with a great view. The food, as throughout our trip, was very good. A local carnival was in progress, and the festivities did not end until dawn, but no-one complained of being unable to sleep -- the air conditioners provided a reasonable substitute for white noise.

Drive from Guardalavaca to Barracoa -- Bird Sightings

2 April 2000
 
COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME # SEEN SPECIFIC LOCALE
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea 1 Rio Toa 
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea 2 -
Snowy Egret Egretta thula 10 -
Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias 1 -
Great Egret Ardea alba 6 -
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 500 -
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura 100 -
American Kestrel Falco sparverius 8 -
Limpkin Aramus guarauna 2 Herrera 
Spotted Sandpiper Tringa macularia 1 Rio Toa 
Rock Dove Columba livia 50 -
White-crowned Pigeon Columba leucocephala 2 Rio Nibujon 
Scaly-naped Pigeon Columba squamosa 4 Rio Toa 
Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura 100 -
Zenaida Dove Zenaida aurita 2 Rio Toa 
White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica 2 Bahia de Taco 
Common Ground-Dove Columbina passerina 12 -
Great Lizard-Cuckoo Saurothera merlini 1 Rio Toa 
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani 6 -
Antillean Palm-Swift Tachornis phoenicobia 10 Yamanigev 
Cuban Emerald Chlorostilbon ricordii 5 Rio Toa 
Belted Kingfisher Ceryle alcyon 1 Rio Toa 
Belted Kingfisher Ceryle alcyon 1 -
Cuban Woodpecker Xiphidiopicus percussus 3 Rio Toa 
Cuban Woodpecker Xiphidiopicus percussus 2 Bahia de Taco 
Eastern/Western Wood-Pewee Contopus sp. 1 Rio Toa 
Gray Kingbird Tyrannus dominicensis 30 -
Cuban Crow Corvus nasicus 3 Punta Gorda 
Cuban Vireo Vireo gundlachii 2 Bahia de Taco 
Black-whiskered Vireo Vireo altiloquus 10 -
Red-legged Thrush Turdus plumbeus 20 Rio Toa 
Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos 50 -
Cave Swallow Hirundo fulva 30 Rio Toa 
House Sparrow Passer domesticus 50 -
Northern Parula Parula americana 3 Rio Toa 
Cape May Warbler Dendroica tigrina 3 Rio Toa 
Black-throated Blue Warbler Dendroica caerulescens 2 Rio Nibujon 
Black-throated Blue Warbler Dendroica caerulescens 2 Rio Toa 
Yellow-throated Warbler Dendroica dominica 1 Rio Nibujon 
Palm Warbler Dendroica palmarum 1 Rio Toa 
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia 2 Rio Toa 
American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla 3 Rio Toa 
American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla 2 -
Louisiana Waterthrush Seiurus motacilla 2 Rio Nibujon 
Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas 2 -
Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea 20 -
Black-cowled Oriole Icterus dominicensis 8 Rio Toa 
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird Agelaius humeralis 3 -
Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna 20 -
Cuban Blackbird Dives atroviolacea 4 Rio Toa 
Cuban Blackbird Dives atroviolacea 10 -
Greater Antillean Grackle Quiscalus niger 10  Rio Toa 
Greater Antillean Grackle Quiscalus niger 200 -

April 3

We discovered that a hike up El Yunqué was not practical, as it would require clear skies, and all day (and good fitness).


El Yunqué

No clear skies over El Yunqué
photo © Blake Maybank, 2000

Instead, we birded along the road to El Yunqué, and among the many birds we encountered, the highlights were very close looks at Cuban Trogons, the country's national bird, as well as some White-collared Swifts. We saw many Green Woodpeckers, including a couple of nests, and there were several more Cuban Crows. Scaly-naped Pigeons were also a good find.

Cuban Trogan (male)

Cuban Trogan, the country's national bird
photo © Ken McKenna, 2000

Later in the morning, we visited a "typical" Cuban farm, the same site visited by the typical helicopter tours to Barracoa (we were the first group to drive to Barracoa along the north shore in more than two years).

Mr. McKay climbing for Coconuts   - - Images from the Rio Toa road - - Hiking the Rio Toa road

         Mad McKay attempts to secure some coconuts.                                                                            Birding along the Rio Toa road.

photos © Ken McKenna, 2000

As we were walking out we passed Joanne & Jack and their group who were being driven in to the farm. We had a lunch (slightly delayed) at a fine site beside the Rio Toa, where helicopter participants take a boat ride on the river. We enjoyed our roast suckling pig, and saw a West Indian Woodpecker, the only one of the trip.

A Gray Kingbird, a frequent companion         photo © Ken McKenna, 2000

We drove back to Guardalavaca in the p.m., arriving around suppertime, stopping en route at an intriguing-looking small lake, which turned out to be almost empty of birdlife..

We had a comfortable mini-van from Cubanacan for this trip; they also supplied a driver, and a bilingual guide, Sonia Valdés, who did a wonderful job.

3 April 2000 Bird Sightings

El Yunque Road
 
COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME # SEEN
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura 10 
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 1
White-crowned Pigeon Columba leucocephala
Scaly-naped Pigeon Columba squamosa
Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura 80 
Zenaida Dove Zenaida aurita
White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica
Common Ground-Dove Columbina passerina 10 
Great Lizard-Cuckoo Saurothera merlini
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Cuban Emerald Chlorostilbon ricordii 15 
Cuban Trogon Priotelus temnurus
Belted Kingfisher Ceryle alcyon 2
Cuban Woodpecker Xiphidiopicus percussus 10 
Eastern Kingbird Tyrannus tyrannus
Gray Kingbird Tyrannus dominicensis 20 
Cuban Crow Corvus nasicus
Black-whiskered Vireo Vireo altiloquus 30 
Red-legged Thrush Turdus plumbeus 40 
Northern Parula Parula americana
Black-throated Blue Warbler Dendroica caerulescens
Palm Warbler Dendroica palmarum
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia
American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla 12 
Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea 20 
Black-cowled Oriole Icterus dominicensis
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird Agelaius humeralis
Cuban Blackbird Dives atroviolacea 10 
Greater Antillean Grackle Quiscalus niger 200 

Rio Toa (Lunch Stop)
 
COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME # SEEN
Cuban Woodpecker Xiphidiopicus percussus 2
West Indian Woodpecker Melanerpes superciliaris 1

Drive from Barracoa to Guardalavaca
 
COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME # SEEN
Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps 2
Ruddy Duck Oxyura jamaicensis
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 300 
Green Heron Butorides virescens
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron Nyctanassa violacea
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura 100 
American Kestrel Falco sparverius 10 
American Coot Fulica americana
Spotted Sandpiper Tringa macularia
Killdeer Charadrius vociferus
Rock Dove Columba livia 50 
Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura 100 
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani 13 
Gray Kingbird Tyrannus dominicensis 20 
Black-whiskered Vireo Vireo altiloquus
Red-legged Thrush Turdus plumbeus 20 
Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos 15 
Cave Swallow Hirundo fulva 50 
House Sparrow Passer domesticus 30 
Black-cowled Oriole Icterus dominicensis
Greater Antillean Grackle Quiscalus niger 100 

April 4

We were up early for the drive to El Saltón. We happened upon a great roadside marsh in a rice field just north of Cauto Christo, filled with birds (we stopped there on our way back, as well). There were many herons and egrets, and numerous Northern Jacanas and Black-necked Stilts, but the prize was two immature Snail Kites that gave a great show, including the capture and dispatch of several snails.

Snail Kite

Snail Kite over rice field, Cauto Christo
photo © Ken McKenna, 2000

We were in El Saltón for lunch, and met with Ricardo Sosa, who spent the afternoon, evening, and following morning with us. He was excellent, as usual. Everyone enjoyed the resort, the lodge was in fine shape, and the meals were very good.

The waterfall at El Saltón   < El Saltón > Birding the Hills around El Saltón

                                The Waterfall at El Saltón.                                                                        Birding the hills above El Saltón

photos © Ken McKenna, 2000

We had both Bare-legged Owls and Cuban Pygmy-Owls here, and part of our group who left the afternoon hike early had a Grundlach's Hawk on the way back to the resort. Other birds here the group enjoyed included Ruddy Quail-Dove, Red-legged Honeycreeper, Cuban Pewee, (Cuban) Eastern Meadowlark, many Cuban Grassquits, N. Rough-winged Swallow, Cuban Bullfinch, and my favourite Caribbean bird of all, the Cuban Tody.

The Cuban Tody (Todus multicolor)

The Cuban Tody, Todus multicolor, my favourite Cuban bird
photo © Blake Maybank, 2000

April 5

We birded the hills around El Saltón in the morning, and had a fine roast pig luncheon beside the waterfall before we left for Guardalavaca.

We arrived in mid-to-late afternoon in Guardalavaca. As before, Cubanacan supplied the driver, and our guide this time was Raoul, who was also very good.

4-5 April Bird Sightings

El Saltón

Afternoon and evening of April 4th
Morning of April 5th
 
COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME # OBSERVED
4 April 5 April
Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus 1
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea 2
Green Heron Butorides virescens 1
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron Nyctanassa violacea -
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura 10
Red-tailed Hawk Buteo jamaicensis 1
Gundlach's Hawk Accipiter gundlachi 1 -
American Kestrel Falco sparverius 3
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus - 1
Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinicus 1
Killdeer Charadrius vociferus -
Rock Dove Columba livia 20  20
Scaly-naped Pigeon Columba squamosa 2
Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura 40  20
Zenaida Dove Zenaida aurita 1
White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica 10
Common Ground-Dove Columbina passerina 10  10
Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana 4
Great Lizard-Cuckoo Saurothera merlini 2
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani 20  20
Bare-legged Owl Otus lawrencii -
Cuban Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium siju 3
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris -
Antillean Palm-Swift Tachornis phoenicobia 10  -
Cuban Emerald Chlorostilbon ricordii 20  10
Belted Kingfisher Ceryle alcyon 1
Cuban Tody Todus multicolor 5
Cuban Woodpecker Xiphidiopicus percussus 5
Northern Flicker Colaptes auratus 2
Cuban Pewee Contopus caribaeus 3
Eastern Kingbird Tyrannus tyrannus -
Gray Kingbird Tyrannus dominicensis 10  10
Loggerhead Kingbird Tyrannus caudifasciatus 4
Black-whiskered Vireo Vireo altiloquus 30  50
Red-legged Thrush Turdus plumbeus 50  50
Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos 10  -
N. Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis 5
Cliff Swallow Hirundo pyrrhonota 20  -
Cave Swallow Hirundo fulva 1
Northern Parula Parula americana 5
Yellow Warbler Dendroica petechia 1
Cape May Warbler Dendroica tigrina 7
Black-throated Blue Warbler Dendroica caerulescens 6
Prairie Warbler Dendroica discolor 1
Palm Warbler Dendroica palmarum 3
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia 1
American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla 10
Worm-eating Warbler Helmitheros vermivorus 1
Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapillus 1
Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas 5
Stripe-headed Tanager Spindalis zena 6
Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus 2 4
Cuban Bullfinch Melopyrrha nigra 10
Cuban Grassquit Tiaris canora 12
Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea 10  10
Black-cowled Oriole Icterus dominicensis 2
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird Agelaius humeralis 10
Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna 6
Cuban Blackbird Dives atroviolacea 20  20
Greater Antillean Grackle Quiscalus niger 50  100
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis -

ENROUTE Between Guardalavaca and El Saltón (not including Cauto Christo sightings)

4 April 2000 - to El Saltón (morning)
5 April 2000 - fom El Saltón (afternoon)
 
COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME # OBSERVED
4 April 5 April
Great Egret Ardea alba -
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 250  300
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura 80  100
American Kestrel Falco sparverius 4
Limpkin Aramus guarauna -
Rock Dove Columba livia 40  20
Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura 60  50
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani 20  10
Gray Kingbird Tyrannus dominicensis 40  40
Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos 20  30
Greater Antillean Grackle Quiscalus niger 250  200

Cauto Christo

Mid-morning of April 4th , mid afternoon of April 5th.
 
COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME # OBSERVED
4 April 5 April
Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps 2
Tricolored Heron Egretta tricolor 2
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea 2
Snowy Egret Egretta thula 10  30
Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias 2
Great Egret Ardea alba 2
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 50  50
Green Heron Butorides virescens 10  15
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura 30  30
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis 1
Northern Jacana Jacana spinosa 20  10
Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca -
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes 2
Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria
Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla 12  -
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus 35  35
Killdeer Charadrius vociferus -
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani -
Belted Kingfisher Ceryle alcyon -
Palm Warbler Dendroica palmarum -
Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea -
Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna -

April 6 - 7

We recuperated in Guardalavaca, and birded locally. Some of the group began discovering the other attractions of the resort, including the great snorkeling, and horse-back riding. Others continued birding.

April 8

Parc Nacional Bahia De Naranjo

Parc Nacional Bahia De Naranjo

Parc Nacional Bahia De Naranjo
photo © Blake Maybank, 2000

Some of us cycled to the nearby Playa Esmerelda, at the eastern mouth of the Parc Nacional Bahia De Naranjo. This took an hour, and others in the group took a taxi there and back. There was an interpretive nature trail, but they were trying to charge $8.00 per person, which was outrageous, so we instead hiked along a bay-side trail leading south, and arrived at a local zoological garden, whose duck ponds held a lot of wildlife. Highlights included Zenaida Doves, another Cuban Tody, and a Cuban Martin.

LaSagra's Flycatcher

LaSagra's Flycatcher
photo © Ken McKenna, 2000

Parc Nacional Bahia De Naranjo -- Bird Sightings

8 April & 12 April 2000
 
COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME # OBSERVED
8 April 12 April
Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus 2 6
West Indian Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna arborea - 2
Tricolored Heron Egretta tricolor 1 2
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea - 11
Snowy Egret Egretta thula 10  15
Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias 1 1
Great Egret Ardea alba 2 2
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 30 50
Green Heron Butorides virescens 6 1
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron Nyctanassa violacea - 1
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura 50 50
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis - 1
American Kestrel Falco sparverius 2 1
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 5 20
American Coot Fulica americana 4 5
Caribbean Coot Fulica caribaea - -
Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca 1 -
Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria 2 -
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus 4 40
Killdeer Charadrius vociferus - 1
Royal Tern Sterna maxima 5 6
Rock Dove Columba livia 10 20
White-crowned Pigeon Columba leucocephala - 1
Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura 25 25
Zenaida Dove Zenaida aurita 4 -
White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica 4 1
Common Ground-Dove Columbina passerina 20 3
Mangrove Cuckoo Coccyzus minor - 1
Great Lizard-Cuckoo Saurothera merlini 3 2
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani 10 15
Cuban Emerald Chlorostilbon ricordii - 6
Cuban Tody Todus multicolor 1 1
Cuban Woodpecker Xiphidiopicus percussus 6 3
La Sagra's Flycatcher Myiarchus sagrae - 1
Gray Kingbird Tyrannus dominicensis 15 10
Loggerhead Kingbird Tyrannus caudifasciatus 2 4
Cuban Vireo Vireo gundlachii - 2
Black-whiskered Vireo Vireo altiloquus 15 20
Red-legged Thrush Turdus plumbeus 10 10
Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos 15 10
Cuban Martin Progne cryptoleuca 1 1
House Sparrow Passer domesticus 10 15
Northern Parula Parula americana 5 2
Yellow Warbler Dendroica petechia 4 2
Magnolia Warbler Dendroica magnolia - 1
Cape May Warbler Dendroica tigrina 5 4
Black-throated Blue Warbler Dendroica caerulescens 5 6
Prairie Warbler Dendroica discolor 2 -
Palm Warbler Dendroica palmarum 4 1
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia 2 5
American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla 5 10
Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapillus - 1
Northern Waterthrush Seiurus noveboracensis 1 1
Louisiana Waterthrush Seiurus motacilla 1 -
Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas 2 2
Stripe-headed Tanager Spindalis zena 6 4
Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus - 2
Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea 10 15
Black-cowled Oriole Icterus dominicensis - 2
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird Agelaius humeralis 5 10
Cuban Blackbird Dives atroviolacea 10 15
Greater Antillean Grackle Quiscalus niger 25 25

April 9

Playa Pesquero

We took a taxi minivan to Playa Pesquero, once an undeveloped beach, but now in the throes of hotel development. Regardless, we saw some new birds during our walk along the coral rock coastline (Wilson's Plover, Reddish Egret), and Mad McKay tried to lose his watch, unsuccessfully, as it turned out. Most of the group enjoyed a swim off the incredible beach.

Cape May Warbler & Northern Parula

An odd combo, Cape May Warbler & Northern Parula.
photo © Ken McKenna, 2000

Playa Pesquero -- Bird Sightings

9 April 2000
 
COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME # SEEN
Reddish Egret Egretta rufescens
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura 15 
Spotted Sandpiper Tringa macularia
Willet Catoptrophorus semipalmatus
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Black-bellied Plover Pluvialis squatarola
Wilson's Plover Charadrius wilsonia 3
Killdeer Charadrius vociferus
Rock Dove Columba livia 20
Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura 10 
White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Cuban Emerald Chlorostilbon ricordii
Gray Kingbird Tyrannus dominicensis
Cuban Vireo Vireo gundlachii
Black-whiskered Vireo Vireo altiloquus
Red-legged Thrush Turdus plumbeus
Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos
House Sparrow Passer domesticus 10 
Oriente Warbler Teretistris fornsi
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis

April 10

A day trip to Pinares de Mayarí.

We left early in the morning, with a new guide (as Raoul was ill). South of Mayarí, going up into the mountains, we stopped at Salto del Guayabo, a virgin rainforest, watched over by a single guardian, Ermelino Napoles, who spoke only Spanish, but had a remarkable knowledge of the natural history of "his" preserve. We learned of the occurrence of some choice species, including Gray-headed and Blue-headed Quail-Doves, and Cuban Solitaires. We were there at the wrong time of day to see the doves, but we heard the Solitaires. There are also Bee Hummingbirds. This is a place to return early in the morning, but would require staying nearby, such as at the lodge at Pinares del Mayarí. There were many other birds on offer, including numerous Oriente Warblers, Olive-capped Warblers, and Cuban Bullfinches. Nearby we had extended views of soaring Broad-winged Hawks, the resident Cuban race.

We then went on to lunch at the Lodge at Pinares, (very good), and then it was off to the research station in the Pinares del Nipé National Park, where we had a great tour on a diverse nature trail, and saw a nesting Cuban (Greater Antillean) Nightjar, and Roger and the guide were lucky enough to quickly glimpse a Bee Hummingbird. Our guide was one of the park's researchers, and they are desperately short of equipment, including camera equipment.  He asked us to photograph the nightjar on the nest, and document the day-old young, for a paper he has in preparation.  We were pleased to do so, and have sent him the images.

Day-old Cuban Nightjar chicks

Day-old Cuban (Greater Antillean) Nightjar chicks.
photo © Ken McKenna, 2000

There were many Cuban Todys, and we saw La Sagra's Flycatchers and Loggerhead Kingbirds. We learned that there are many other trails in the park, and that the park has a bird list of more than 150 species, as well as many orchids, and other interesting plants. Everyone who went on this trip agreed that several nights should be spent in this area, to properly explore it. We had only a tantalizing glimpse.

We were back to Guardalavaca by dark, wishing that we could have stayed several days.
 

Pinares De Mayarí -- Bird Sightings

10 April 2000
 
COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME # SEEN
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea
Snowy Egret Egretta thula 10 
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 40 
Green Heron Butorides virescens
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura 50 
Broad-winged Hawk Buteo platypterus
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Killdeer Charadrius vociferus
Rock Dove Columba livia 15 
Scaly-naped Pigeon Columba squamosa
Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura 25 
Common Ground-Dove Columbina passerina 20 
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani 10 
Greater Antillean Nightjar Caprimulgus cubanensis 1 (+2y)
Cuban Emerald Chlorostilbon ricordii 25 
Bee Hummingbird Mellisuga helenae 1
Cuban Trogon Priotelus temnurus
Cuban Tody Todus multicolor 15 
Northern Flicker Colaptes auratus
Cuban Pewee Contopus caribaeus
La Sagra's Flycatcher Myiarchus sagrae
Gray Kingbird Tyrannus dominicensis 15 
Loggerhead Kingbird Tyrannus caudifasciatus
Cuban Vireo Vireo gundlachii
Black-whiskered Vireo Vireo altiloquus 20 
Cuban Solitaire Myadestes elisabeth
Red-legged Thrush Turdus plumbeus 20 
Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos 25 
House Sparrow Passer domesticus 10 
Cape May Warbler Dendroica tigrina
Black-throated Blue Warbler Dendroica caerulescens 20 
Olive-capped Warbler Dendroica pityophila 20 
Prairie Warbler Dendroica discolor
Palm Warbler Dendroica palmarum
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia
American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla 10 
Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapillus
Oriente Warbler Teretistris fornsi 12 
Stripe-headed Tanager Spindalis zena
Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus
Cuban Bullfinch Melopyrrha nigra 20 
Cuban Grassquit Tiaris canora 20 
Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea 50 
Black-cowled Oriole Icterus dominicensis
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird Agelaius humeralis
Cuban Blackbird Dives atroviolacea 10 
Greater Antillean Grackle Quiscalus niger 25 

April 11

Guardalavaca.

More idle birding.

April 12

Some of the group chose to return to Parc Nacional Bahia De Naranjo, where a highlight was an adult Snail Kite, and a family group of West Indian Whistling-Ducks. The ponds held a Caribbean Coot, a lifer for some in the group. The Bird List is above, under April 8.

April 13

Guardalavaca.

In the early evening we headed out to the airport, had no trouble checking in, and the flight left on time. We were reluctant to leave, but had enjoyed a splendid trip.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS


It's not easy being green...

The author coordinating the evening checklist -- "it's not easy being green".
The group insisted this shot be included.  The participants are always right.
photo © Joan Waldron, 2000

FULL LIST OF SPECIES SEEN from 1 - 13 April 2000
 
COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME
Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus
Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps
Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis
West Indian Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna arborea
Ruddy Duck Oxyura jamaicensis
Reddish Egret Egretta rufescens
Tricolored Heron Egretta tricolor
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias
Great Egret Ardea alba
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Green Heron Butorides virescens
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron Nyctanassa violacea
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis
Broad-winged Hawk Buteo platypterus
Red-tailed Hawk Buteo jamaicensis
Gundlach's Hawk Accipiter gundlachi
Crested Caracara Caracara plancus
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
King Rail Rallus elegans
Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinicus
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
American Coot Fulica americana
Caribbean Coot Fulica caribaea
Limpkin Aramus guarauna
Northern Jacana Jacana spinosa
Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes
Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria
Spotted Sandpiper Tringa macularia
Willet Catoptrophorus semipalmatus
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus
Black-bellied Plover Pluvialis squatarola
Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus
Wilson's Plover Charadrius wilsonia
Killdeer Charadrius vociferus
Laughing Gull Larus atricilla
Royal Tern Sterna maxima
Rock Dove Columba livia
White-crowned Pigeon Columba leucocephala
Scaly-naped Pigeon Columba squamosa
Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura
Zenaida Dove Zenaida aurita
White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica
Common Ground-Dove Columbina passerina
Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana
Mangrove Cuckoo Coccyzus minor
Great Lizard-Cuckoo Saurothera merlini
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Bare-legged Owl Otus lawrencii
Cuban Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium siju
Antillean Nighthawk Chordeiles gundlachii
Greater Antillean Nightjar Caprimulgus cubanensis
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Antillean Palm-Swift Tachornis phoenicobia
Cuban Emerald Chlorostilbon ricordii
Bee Hummingbird Mellisuga helenae
Cuban Trogon Priotelus temnurus
Belted Kingfisher Ceryle alcyon
Cuban Tody Todus multicolor
West Indian Woodpecker Melanerpes superciliaris
Cuban Woodpecker Xiphidiopicus percussus
Northern Flicker Colaptes auratus
Eastern Wood-Pewee Contopus virens
Cuban Pewee Contopus caribaeus
La Sagra's Flycatcher Myiarchus sagrae
Eastern Kingbird Tyrannus tyrannus
Gray Kingbird Tyrannus dominicensis
Loggerhead Kingbird Tyrannus caudifasciatus
Cuban Crow Corvus nasicus
Cuban Vireo Vireo gundlachii
Black-whiskered Vireo Vireo altiloquus
Warbling Vireo Vireo gilvus
Cuban Solitaire Myadestes elisabeth
Red-legged Thrush Turdus plumbeus
Gray Catbird Dumetella carolinensis
Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos
Cuban Martin Progne cryptoleuca
Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis
Bank Swallow Riparia riparia
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Cliff Swallow Hirundo pyrrhonota
Cave Swallow Hirundo fulva
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Northern Parula Parula americana
Yellow Warbler Dendroica petechia
Magnolia Warbler Dendroica magnolia
Cape May Warbler Dendroica tigrina
Black-throated Blue Warbler Dendroica caerulescens
Blackburnian Warbler Dendroica fusca
Yellow-throated Warbler Dendroica dominica
Olive-capped Warbler Dendroica pityophila
Prairie Warbler Dendroica discolor
Palm Warbler Dendroica palmarum
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia
American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla
Worm-eating Warbler Helmitheros vermivorus
Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapillus
Northern Waterthrush Seiurus noveboracensis
Louisiana Waterthrush Seiurus motacilla
Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas
Oriente Warbler Teretistris fornsi
Hooded Warbler Wilsonia citrina
Stripe-headed Tanager Spindalis zena
Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus
Cuban Bullfinch Melopyrrha nigra
Cuban Grassquit Tiaris canora
Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea
Indigo Bunting Passerina cyanea
Painted Bunting Passerina ciris
Black-cowled Oriole Icterus dominicensis
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird Agelaius humeralis
Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna
Cuban Blackbird Dives atroviolacea
Greater Antillean Grackle Quiscalus niger
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis

Species seen - 121

The Nova Scotia Bird Society in Cuba

The Nova Scotia Bird Society tour of Cuba
photo © Joan Waldron, 2000

Blake Maybank
Nova Scotia, Canada
maybank@birdingtheamericas.com




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