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GRAND CAYMAN ISLAND
5 - 7 DECEMBER 2003
by David Klauber
I managed to sneak in a weekend trip to Grand Cayman on a business trip
in December to see Vitelline Warbler. I arrived via a somewhat
convoluted route through Tulsa, Fort Worth, and Miami, but I could
expense the plane ticket, making the trip more affordable. The Cayman
Islands are one of the more expensive groups of islands in the
Caribbean, so be forewarned. The best prices I found through hotel
chains started at $130. Friends had referred me to Eldemire’s Guest
House. At $82 US a night, they seemed to be the best deal I could find.
The endemics can be seen on the less populated eastern part of the
island in forested areas. If time is limited go to Royal Botanical
Gardens, where you can see most of the birds. The Mastic Road trail is
also in the same area and very productive – and free! For those looking
for a big trip list, apparently a few more shorebirds and laughing
Gulls can sometimes be seen in the West End area, which I did not
visit. Development is growing rapidly, and according to Trevor Baxter,
a local birder who has lived there for 30 years, many good birding
areas have disappeared, especially over the last 5 – 10 years.
Nonetheless the endemics can still be seen fairly easily in the
forested eastern section.
Money
- $1 US = .80 Cayman – US cash accepted everywhere, no need to change
currency at a bank. Most places accepted credit cards
Accommodation
– Eldemire’s
Guest House - $82 US per night – about 1 mile south of
Georgetown, tootie@eldemire.com phone: 345 – 949 5387
Reference
Material
Doug Macneil’s trip report from
www.birdingtheamericas.com
Birds of the Cayman Islands –
Patricia Bradley – 1985 – there is a newer edition; has good photos,
site maps, subspecies and distribution information
A photographic guide to Birds of the
West Indies – G. Michael Flieg & Allan Sander
Helpful tips from Allan Sander and Nancy Norman - thanks
THE
TRIP
December
5 – Friday
I arrived around 12:15 from Miami. Customs went reasonably smoothly.
The car rental companies are across the street to the left – better
hope it’s not raining. I used Dollar, booked in USA. The total was $87
for a compact automatic for 2 days. I drove towards Eldemire’s Guest
House, but took a wrong turn, seeing the only Gray Kingbirds of the
trip – 2 on a telephone wire. They are supposed to migrate away in the
winter. I got to Eldemire’s a little after 1 and nobody was there, only
one guest in the back. After waiting about 15 minutes I saw another
guest that found the owner, Tooti, who lives in the house across the
street from the main entrance and parking lot. The room was nice and
roomy with 2 double beds, AC, fan, and TV costing $165 for both nights,
situated in a residential area near the beach. They let me keep the
room Sunday until I had to leave for the airport. They have kitchen
facilities and a refrigerator downstairs as well as a water cooler.
I left a little after 2 PM for the Royal Botanical Gardens, arriving at
3 PM. It took about 35 – 40 minutes as there was a bit of traffic. It
costs $8 US to get in. I believe they open around 8:30 and close at
5:30. There are woodland trails and some ponds at one end. I heard a
Vitelline Warbler almost immediately a couple of hundred feet from the
headquarters. I got a quick look, and a Worm-eating Warbler also popped
up, in very bright peach-buff colors. The Vitelline’s call is
reminiscent of a Prairie Warbler, but it has 5 notes, with the 5th
being distinctly louder and down-slurred. One of its alternate calls
sounds very similar to a Prairie. Near the ponds I had a female Cuban
Bullfinch and the only Yellow-throated Warbler of the trip. The usual
Moorhens and Coots were on the pond. Caribbean Elaenia and La Sagra’s
Flycatcher were also nearby. Back into the woodlands I saw the only
Zenaida Dove of the trip on the path. Other birds seen were
Thick-billed Vireo and a couple other Vitelline Warblers at close
range.
About 4:15 I left, after watching a few warblers in the large tree in
the parking lot. Driving out the exit road after the toll booth is an
open overgrown area on the right that looks like a right of way. 2
Cuban Parrots were in the treetops at fairly close range. Reaching the
main road I went right or north and drove the 5 miles or so to the pig
farm. To get to the pig farm, veer left when you reach the coast, then
go left again when you reach a store – Chisholm’s – and a sign for
Hutland to the left. Hutland apparently is a district rather than a
town. At about 1.2 miles on the left is a very unassuming unsigned dirt
road. This goes about 100 yards or less and ends at the pig farm. They
feed the ducks, and there were over 100 West Indian Whistling Ducks
here and many Blue-winged Teal. There is a lagoon behind the farm where
there were some shorebirds and egrets in the distance. A West Indian
Woodpecker flew away from me; unfortunately this glimpse was all I
would see during my stay.
I left the farm around 5:15, and briefly scanned the coast, seeing only
3 Royal Terns. I arrived back at Eldemire’s around 6 as it was getting
dark. I walked to the nearby Sunset House for a decent dinner and a
couple of drinks on the beach. The house opposite had an amazing
display of Christmas lights, an odd sight in the tropics, especially
the decorated palm trees. It poured rain for about 30 minutes, which
was the beginning of a cold front that was moving in.
December
6, Saturday
Through a friend I had contacted Trevor Baxter, a local birder, and he
met me at 7:30 AM on a windy morning. I followed him to Poindexter
Road, which goes north or left near Savannah off the main highway
towards the east end. This was a favored birding road that recently is
experiencing some development, and is not quite as good as it has been,
according to them. We saw a Gnatcatcher, Indigo Buntings, and a few
warblers. We also met John, another local birder, and Dave, a Brit who
was visiting his daughter. I had a glimpse of what I think was a
Chimney Swift in the distance, but couldn’t get on it before it
disappeared. After an hour or so here Trevor took us to Governor Gore’s
pond a couple of miles away. It was on Pennsylvania Avenue, which is a
right turn off a road whose name I didn’t catch that turns north off
the main road – it may be in North Sound Estates. This pond is a
protected area that has a boardwalk covered in 1 spot that overlooks a
small pond. A flyby Least Bittern and Belted Kingfisher were the only
birds of note.
We next went to an Agricultural farm / station that is clearly
indicated on the main highway, turning to the right. This is gated and
fenced, but you can squeeze in on the left around a shed. Trevor says
the owners allow birders to visit. We didn’t see much and only spent
about 30 minutes, seeing a Merlin and Loggerhead Kingbird. Trevor had a
previous commitment so we returned to Poindexter Road and Trevor left
about 10:15. I drove further south and took the High Rock Road loop,
which passes through second growth and woodland. I didn’t see much, but
it was after 11AM and fairly hot. I returned west and had a nice lunch
at the Lighthouse restaurant on the water.
Trevor had arranged to pick me up at 2 PM at Eldemire’s, and he took me
in the South Sound area to an unmarked trail called White’s Gardens
that went into swampy woodland. We heard woodpeckers and saw a few
warblers, but not the Swainson’s that can sometimes be found there.
Trevor then took me to several ponds that I think were between Savannah
and Bodden Town. There are many ponds and marshy areas to the north of
the main highway in this area. One road was on Moonbeam Drive. We saw
another Least Bittern along with the usual herons and Moorhens,
Black-necked Stilts, and a flock of Glossy Ibis. Dave had told us about
Barn Owls that frequent a tower at the airport. Near dusk we arrived at
the tower at the airport, quite visible as it’s tall and stands out.
It’s a huge round dome with metal scaffolding and stairs underneath,
and is gated off. A bit after dark a cooperative Barn Owl flew in about
6:10 and perched on a fence inside the enclosure. Lights go on at
night, so we could see the bird well. It stayed on the fence giving a
raspy call. The primaries were very white, contrasting noticeably with
the darker wing coverts and upperparts. Night Herons flew over the road
and airport area.
December
7, Sunday – last day
Trevor picked me up at 7:15, we picked up Dave at Poindexter Road, and
drove to Mastic Road. This is on the road that cuts north towards the
Botanical Gardens. Mastic Road is signed and turns off to the left, a
bit before the gardens (I think). A short way down the road it ends at
a gate. You can enter here, but be sure to close and rope the gate, as
the owner is a bit sensitive to people entering. A couple of minutes
down a dirt road there is a parking area and a marked trail on the
right. This passes through similar and better habitat than the
Botanical Gardens, and is a cheaper alternative. It is not visited
often and is good, quiet birding spot open to the public. It goes
through overgrown fields for a bit then enters good woodland. According
to Trevor many of these birds are only on the southern / eastern part
of the island. This is an excellent birding spot, with most of the
endemics.
Birds seen were Vitelline Warbler, Cuban Bullfinch, Caribbean Dove,
Flicker, West Indian Woodpecker (not by me!), Hooded Warbler, and
others. Trevor has had Swainson’s Warbler there by markers 10 & 11,
and saw one 2 weeks earlier, but we couldn’t find one. We were there
from about 8 to 11:30. There are numbered markers along the trail; we
only got to about 13 or 14, but the trail goes about 2-3 miles. Also
seen were frogs sleeping on the trail markers and 2 snakes. After
leaving the trail we returned to Poindexter Road and dropped off Dave.
We checked out a few ponds in the area and I saw Short-billed Dowitcher
and both Yellowlegs, adding 2 more birds for the trip. We finished with
a leisurely lunch of Turtle burgers at a restaurant on the water about
2 miles south of Eldemire’s on South Sound Road.
BIRD LIST
– 66 species
Pied-Billed Grebe – 1 or 2 seen on ponds all 3 days
Least Bittern – 2; 1 flyby at Governor Gore’s Pond, another at a
different pond in the same general area
Great Egret - common on lagoons and ponds
Snowy Egret – seen on 2 days, fairly common
Little Blue Heron – seen Saturday & Sunday, a couple each day
Tricolored Heron – 1 to 2 seen each day on various ponds and lagoons
Cattle Egret – fairly common in fields around cattle
Green Heron – 1 to 2 seen each day in various habitats
Black-crowned Night-Heron – seen as flyby night silhouettes Saturday
near airport
Yellow-Crowned Night-Heron - possible flybys near airport, not
counted
Glossy Ibis – small flock Saturday afternoon by pond
West Indian Whistling-Duck – Friday afternoon at pig farm, 100+
Blue-winged Teal – the most common duck in the Caribbean
Osprey - 1 flyover along main highway near Bodden Town
Merlin – 1 at Agricultural station
American Kestrel – 1 seen along roadside on High Rock Road loop
Common Moorhen – common throughout
American Coot – less common than Moorhen, seen all 3 days
Black-necked Stilt – the most common shorebird seen on various ponds
Greater Yellowlegs – seen 2 days in small groups on ponds and along
roads
Lesser Yellowlegs – seen last day, 2 only with other shorebirds
Solitary Sandpiper – seen Saturday afternoon on roadside pool
Spotted Sandpiper – 1 seen Saturday on pond
Short-billed Dowitcher – 2 or 3 seen Sunday in pond with Yellowlegs
Royal Tern – 2 to 3 seen on north coast and from Lighthouse restaurant
Rock Dove – 1 seen by Eldemire’s, possibly domestic, not counted
White-crowned Pigeon – 1 flyby along highway near Bodden Town Sunday
White-winged Dove – common throughout
Zenaida Dove – 1 only at Royal Botanical Gardens
Common Ground-Dove – common throughout
Caribbean Dove – endemic subspecies - 2 separate birds (same bird?)
seen on Mastic trail
Monk Parakeet – birds in nest somewhere near Savannah
Cuban / Rose-throated Parrot – endemic subspecies – Near Botanical
Gardens, in Mastic Trail forest, also heard in various forested areas.
A different subspecies is on Cayman Brac
Smooth-billed Ani – common in second growth
Barn Owl – Caribbean subspecies - 1 seen near airport; supposedly up to
3 are there.
Chimney Swift – Possibly saw one flying in distance at Poindexter Road;
not counted
Belted Kingfisher – 2 birds; 1 at Governor Gore’s Pond
West Indian Woodpecker – endemic subspecies - only 1 flyby at pig farm;
several heard in forest trails
Northern Flicker – subspecies shared with Cuba - 2 or 3 on Mastic
Trail, several heard only in other forests
Caribbean Elaenia - a couple seen every day, including Botanical Gardens
La Sagra’s Flycatcher - endemic subspecies? -1 or 2 seen each day
Gray Kingbird - 2 birds on telephone wires near airport
Loggerhead Kingbird – endemic subspecies – seen at Agricultural farm
and Mastic Trail
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher – Poindexter Road, 1 or 2
Northern Mockingbird – the most common bird
Gray Catbird – seen by John and Dave on Poindexter Road, not seen by me
Thick-billed Vireo – endemic subspecies -1 at Botanical Gardens,
possibly one heard on Mastic Trail
Yucatan Vireo – endemic subspecies - common in forests
Northern Parula Warbler – 1 or 2 seen each day
Yellow Warbler – Governor Gore’s Pond, Mastic Trail, and various ponds
Magnolia Warbler – a couple seen each day
Cape May Warbler – 1 in trees near Eldemire’s
Black-throated Blue Warbler - 1 or 2 seen each day
Yellow-throated Warbler – 1 in pines by pond at Botanical Gardens
Prairie Warbler – seen Saturday and Sunday in forests; very similar to
Vitelline in female and immature plumages, note strong black streaks on
sides
VITELLINE WARBLER – ENDEMIC - fairly common at Botanical gardens and
Mastic Trail; note song – 5 notes with stronger downslurred fifth note;
streaking on side of breast but not sides; facial pattern very similar
to Prairie Warbler
Palm Warbler – common everywhere
Black-and-White Warbler – seen in White’s Garden and Mastic Trail forest
American Redstart – as above
Worm-eating Warbler – 1 at Botanical Gardens, 1 at Poindexter Road
Ovenbird – 1 or 2 seen in forest trails Saturday & Sunday. Trevor
said when he has seen Swainson’s Warbler it is usually with Ovenbirds,
so check them out
Northern Waterthrush – White’s Gardens forest trails, heard at Mastic
Trail
Common Yellowthroat – a couple seen each day
Hooded Warbler – one male & 1 female seen separately on Mastic Trail
Bananaquit – endemic subspecies -everywhere
Western Stripe-Headed Tanager / Spindalis – endemic subspecies – a few
on Mastic Trail
Indigo Bunting – 2 along Poindexter Road
CUBAN BULLFINCH – endemic subspecies - 1 female at Botanical gardens, 3
or 4 on Mastic Trail
Yellow-faced Grassquit – several seen Saturday & Sunday, especially
along roadsides
Greater Antillean Grackle – endemic subspecies - fairly common
throughout
OTHER
No mammals, other than feral cats; 2 snakes on Mastic Trail; turtles in
ponds
"David
Klauber"
<davehawkowl AT msn.com>