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MEXICO -- EASTERN:
Taumalipas; San Luis Potosi; Veracruz; Nuevo Leon

13 - 21 March 1999

by Chris Harrison

We birded the east coast of mexico from 3/13/99 to 3/21/99.  We drove from Reynosa down to the El Salto Falls/El Naranjo region, down to Valles to stay in the Hotel Taninul, southeast ot Tecolutla on the coast, inland to El Tajin ruins, N to Tampico, back to El Naranjo, then northwest to the mountains SE of Monterrey then crossed at the very quick new crossing 20 miles upriver from Laredo.

Here is a description of the localities we birded.  The numbers next to some of the localities come from Steve Howells new Bird Finding Guide to Mexico (highly recommended!).  Birds are listed with each locality.  Birds listed in parentheses were birds we didn't get a great look at and decided not to call.

We are not hardcore birders (I am a herpetologist) but we did see 160 species without having to make any tricky calls, pay attention to sparrows and female warblers, play tapes (which I don't believe in), or really work too hard.  We probably ignored/skipped 10 species at every stop.  I'm sure hard-core birders could have added another 100 species to the trip list, but we still had a blast!

Pond on Tamps/SLP state line on 80

This site is not found in any books, I came across it about 10 years ago and always visit it.  It is a small pond along highway 80 just W of the SLP state line between Nuevo Morelos and El Naranjo.  It is surrounded by sugar cane, but there is a small turnoff on the N side of 80 just inside SLP.  We park there and walk down to the pond (~10 yards).  Foolproof site for Least Grebes plus seedeaters etc in the cane.

Least Grebe
Blue-winged Teal
Lesser Scaup
Spotted Sandpiper
Warblers sp.

Gomez Farias, Tamps.  - at west edge of town (Howell Site 4.4)

We drive up to Gomez Farias, pass through town then usually walk up to the edge of the forest and bird.  I'm sure you could drive further and see the same things or more, but we were there at dusk and didn't want to waste time driving further.  Furthermore, this spot can be reached by low ground clearance car and a short 5 minute walk.  Lots of tinamous calling here but none seen.  Only birded for 30 minutes.  Saw a nice Bat Falcon on the way up to Gomez Farias (on pole at 5 km mark on road).

Tinamous calling
Ivory-billed Woodcreeper
Social Flycatcher
Rose-throated Becard
Brown Jay
Black-headed Saltator
Audubon's Oriole
Melodious Blackbird
Hummingbird sp.
(Spot-breasted Wren?)
(Crescent-chested Warbler?)

El Salto Falls and along road NW out of El Salto: (Howell site 4.5)

We birded the base of the falls and up the little dirt road that goes to the N out of the town of El Salto and continues for many miles up through sugar cane and forest up to a small village with a really nice old church ruin.  Beautiful area to explore.  Seen some neat "tropical" stuff here over the years (lots of birds, a dead Jaguar, Neotropical Rattlesnakes (C.  durissus) and this trip we saw a dead "Fer-de-lance" (B.  asper)).

Gray Hawk
Social Flycatcher
Brown Jay
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Indigo Bunting
Hooded Oriole
Muscovy Duck
Ruddy Ground-Dove
Green Parakeet
Red-crowned Parrot
Elegant Trogon
Belted Kingfisher
Ringed Kingfisher
Blue-crowned Motmot
Golden-fronted Woodpecker
Black Phoebe
Great Kiskadee
Masked Tityra
Brown Jay
Clay-colored Robin
Northern Rough-winged Swallow
Olive Sparrow
Altamira Oriole
Audubon's Oriole
Melodious Blackbird
Cedar Waxwing
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl
Wilson's Warbler

El Naranjo area: (Howell site 4.5)

This is still one my favorite areas in Mexico north of Chiapas.  The road (80) that climbs W out of the town of El Naranjo is one of the nicest drives in this part of Mexico and has a LOT of good birds.  The sites we stopped were measured in either miles from the El Salto bridge in town, the km markers on the road or mileage from other small towns on the road.  There is an adequate little hotel in El Naranjo ($16 double) and some fancier places up the El Salto road (about 10 km away).

NB - We encountered incredible numbers of ticks in this region this trip.  They are always there, just this trip was the worst.  Be prepared.  One of the members of our party is now being treated for a Rickettsial-type infection (Rocky Mt.  Spotted Fever, Typhus, etc) most likely due to bites of ticks from this region.  Use STRONG DEET (eg.  > 30% - not that Skintastic junk) on your clothes and tuck pants into boots, etc.  There is also a lot of Mala mujere (sp?) here, a big nettle-like plant that gives a very painful sting that then turns to a weepy red poison ivy type rash.  Oh yeah, there is a lot of poison ivy as well!

In spite of all this stuff, this is still one of the most incredible birding places in North America and worth any of these discomforts!

1.  7.8 mi W El Naranjo

This area has some nice forest with some open areas.  Easy to pull off the road.  We saw most species from the road.  Great stop!

Clay-colored Robin
Gray Hawk
Elegant Trogon
Yellow-bellied Sapsucker
Smoky-brown Woodpecker
Social Flycatcher
Green Jay
Cedar Waxwing
American Robin
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Tufted Titmouse
Black-crested Titmouse
Black-headed Siskin
Black-throated Green Warbler
Wilson's Warbler
Red-throated Ant-Tanager
Summer Tanager
Western Tanager
Black-headed Grosbeak
Hooded Oriole
Audubon's Oriole
Melodious Blackbird
Common Raven
Tropical Parula
Ringed Kingfisher
Rufous-browed Peppershrike
Crimson-collared Grosbeak
Altamira Oriole

2.  11 mi W (km 148)

Stopped at a little pulloff here.  There was a fenced off trail off to the north that we walked down after a Mt.  Trogon that was calling.  This is where we found the most ticks as well.

Bronze-winged Woodpecker
Red-lored Parrot
Elegant Trogon
Mountain Trogon (calling - Elegant would answer!)
Yellow-bellied Sapsucker
Ivory-billed Woodcreeper
Green Jay
Black-throated Green Warbler
Black-and-white Warbler

3.  Maguey de Oriente turnoff - 11.5 mi W

We walked down this very passable road a ways and then did most of our birding up by the junction with highway 80.  Saw three species of Woodcreepers here at the same clearing in about 5 minutes!

Gray-headed Dove
Olivaceous Woodcreeper
Spot-crowned Woodcreeper
Ash-throated Flycatcher
Green Jay
Hooded Grosbeak
Black-throated Green Warbler
Black-and-white Warbler
Olive Sparrow
Flame-colored Tanager
White-winged Tanager
Blue-hooded Euphonia

4.  ~12 mi W of El Naranjo (W of km 147):

Stopped here for a La.  waterthrush on the road and found a great birding spot!  There is a small pullout on the N side of the road.  We birded the roadside looking down (S) into the forest.  This is where we saw our Singing Quail.

Singing Quail
Ivory-billed Woodcreeper
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
Green Jay
Blue-headed Vireo
Clay-colored Robin
Blue Mockingbird
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Ruby-crowned Kinglet
Tropical Parula
Yellow-rumped Warbler
Black-throated Green Warbler
Black-and-white Warbler
Louisiana Waterthrush
Wilson's Warbler
Flame-colored Tanager
Blue-hooded Euphonia
Black-headed Grosbeak

5.  4.1 mi W of El Platanito (E of Agua Zarca)

Much more open Oak forest here.  Drier forest species.

Acorn Woodpecker
Greater Pewee
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Black-throated Green Warbler
many warbler sp.
hummingbird sp.

Hotel Taninul, Cd.  Valles, San Luis Potosi

Stayed here on the recommendations of other birders.  Nice hotel.  About $32 for a double room.  The hotel is on the east side of a little range of hills that is east of Cd.  Valles on 70 (towards Tampico).  The hotel is about a mile off the the highway near a well marked turn.  It is around km 12, past the town of El Abra almost at the base of the hill.  Hard to miss.  Also check out the little pond on the E side right at the turnoff!  Hotel has a hot spring pool which is aromatic to say the least (we renamed the abundant race of Melodious Blackbird that occurs there the "Malodorous Blackbird" in honor of the spring).  But the forest is beautiful.  Lots of Aztec Parakeets!  We managed to miss the Ferruginous Pygmy Owls here that were supposed to be hard to miss!

The birding was good, but nothing compared the road from El Naranjo.

Snowy Egret
Great Egret
Cattle Egret
Green Heron
Bat Falcon
Red-billed Pigeon
Inca Dove
Elegant Trogon (calling)
Aztec Parakeet
Groove-billed Ani
Golden-fronted Woodpecker
Lineated Woodpecker
Boat-billed Flycatcher
Tamaulipas Crow
Clay-colored Robin
House Wren
Wilson's Warbler
Altamira Oriole
Hooded Oriole
Melodious "Malodorous" Blackbird
Great-tailed Grackle

Outside of Papantla, Veracruz along 180:

We drove out of town to the south and after we rejoined the Periferrico, we turned off into a dirt road that ran along a creek in a small village.  We followed the road a couple of miles (?) until it turned away from the creek.  Then we parked and walked up the little trail that stayed with the creek.  A nice patch of forest among the miles and miles of orange trees that are taking over this region of Mexico.

Broad-billed Hummingbird
Boat-billed Flycatcher
Social Flycatcher
White-collared Seedeater
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Black-headed Saltator
Grayish Saltator

El Tajin Archeological Site (near Papantla, Veracruz)

Spectacular archeological site with awesome birding as well!  This stop is a must for archeology buffs and for birders (anyone really)!  The Oropendolas calling added to the magic of the visit!  Those birds must be from some other planet!

Belted Kingfisher
Roadside Hawk
Broad-winged Hawk
Aztec Parakeet
Blue-crowned Motmot
Golden-fronted Woodpecker
Yellow-bellied Sapsucker
Rose-throated Becard
Masked Tityra
Blue-headed Vireo
Clay-colored Robin
Gray Catbird
Band-backed Wren
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Northern Rough-winged Swallow
Black-throated Green Warbler
Black-and-white Warbler
Hooded Warbler
Wilson's Warbler
Rose-breasted Grosbeak
Montezuma Oropendola (incredible calls!)
Altamira Oriole
Melodious Blackbird
Great-tailed Grackle
Bronzed Cowbird
(Pheasant Cuckoo?)

Marsh along 80 just west of Anuhuac, Vec (near Tampico)

We turned off on a dirt road that went along a series of open marshy ponds towards some sort of welding shop (they thought we were nuts, I'm sure).  Lots of good birds, only saw Sora, but an excellent spot for rail watching from the car.  The dirt road goes right along a series of reed lined open ponds.  We didn't get any spectacular birds, but I'm sure it would be worth revisiting.  It was very windy when we were there!

Neotropic Cormorant
American Wigeon
Mottled Duck
Blue-winged Teal
Lesser Scaup
Cattle Egret
Turkey Vulture
Sora
Long-billed Curlew
Least Sandpiper
Vermilion Flycatcher
Social Flycatcher
Yellow-rumped Warbler
Common Yellowthroat
Eastern Meadowlark

km 124 on 80 W of Tampico (Puente Tamos 2)

Stopped here at this little Mangrove pond because of some Roseate Spoonbills we saw.  Scope helped a lot due to waning light, but quite a good little spot.  There were several other such spots west of Tampico that would have been worth stopping at had we had more time.

Blue-winged Teal
Northern Shoveler
Roseate Spoonbill
American Coot
Greater Yellowlegs
Lesser Yellowlegs
Spotted Sandpiper
Least Sandpiper
American Golden-Plover
Semipalmated Plover

Rio Moctezuma Bridge along the SLP/Veracruz State Line (El Higo, Veracruz:)

Snowy Egret
Spotted Sandpiper
Willet
Black-necked Stilt
White-collared Swift
Mangrove Swallow
Northern Rough-winged Swallow
Red-winged Blackbird
Great-tailed Grackle

Tecolutla, Veracruz: (Howell Site 10.1)

We stopped at the beach here in eastern Ver.  One of the prettiest beaches on the gulf!  Good birding, but not spectacular.  We missed the Collared Plovers.  Most of the marshes out of town had been drained, but we did find a small patch on the west edge of town (Hotel Aldana turnoff).  Didn't work the marsh very hard, but I'm sure it could be good.  We were there on a weeknight, but I bet a weekend could be a little too crowded!  Stayed at the hotel Tecolutla (straight through town to the coast - $45 double)

Neotropic Cormorant
Brown Pelican
Black Vulture
Turkey Vulture
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture
Common Black-Hawk
Roadside Hawk
Spotted Sandpiper
Black-bellied Plover
Semipalmated Plover
Wilson's Plover
Laughing Gull
Caspian Tern
Royal Tern
Rock Dove
Red-billed Pigeon
Band-backed Wren
White-collared Seedeater
Montezuma Oropendola
Great-tailed Grackle
(Blue-gray Tanager?)

Cola de Caballo, S of Monterrey, Nuevo Leon (Howell Site 3.1)

We spent one morning driving up into the mountains here.  Beautiful drive up into the high pines.  We went to highrise and heard lots of Maroon-fronted Parrots calling from the clouds that covered the cliffs.  Saw lots of good birds.  Nice hotels, but most were full.  Book early.  Avoid weekends!  The drive up that windy narrow road in traffic would be no fun!  Also birded the lake at the bottom of the road in Santiago (Presa de Boca).

Inca Dove
Eastern Wood-Pewee
Black-crested Titmouse
Yellow-rumped Warbler

Coba de Caballo; Canyon E of San Isidro

Black Phoebe
House Wren
Lincoln's Sparrow
Hepatic Tanager
Rufous-crowned Sparrow

Cola de Caballo, La Cienega

Mourning Dove
Acorn Woodpecker
Mexican Jay
Common Raven
Long-billed Thrasher
Black-crested Titmouse
Painted Redstart
Audubon's Oriole

Coba de Caballo, along rd. in montane valley

Elegant Trogon (heard several calling)

Coba de Caballo, Highrise area

Northern Flicker
Ruby-crowned Kinglet
Maroon-fronted Parrots (heard - too cloudy to see)

Presa de Boca; Santiago, Nuevo Leon:

Pied-billed Grebe
American White Pelican
Least Sandpiper
Barn Swallow
Red-winged Blackbird
Great-tailed Grackle
Brewer's Blackbird

Other Mexican birds:

White-tailed Kite
Northern Jacana
Little Blue Heron
White-faced Ibis
White-winged Dove

In Texas:

Wild Turkey
House Sparrow
Common Grackle
Western Scrub-Jay
House Finch
Northern Cardinal
Pyrrhuloxia

Final comments:

If I were to do this again (which I will in May), I will drive down to Monterrey from Laredo (crossing at the new crossing about 20 miles NW of Laredo) then drive down to Laredo on the incredible new tollway (~$10 to Monterrey) then I would take the good roads from Monterrey to Cd.  Victoria and then go to El Naranjo.

Tecolutla and El Tajin were nice, but the drive from Valles to Tecolutla (200 miles) took over 7 hours due to the awful roads (I have a 4x4 pickup) through the Tamuin, El Higo, Tempoal "shortcut".  Drive to Tampico and drive the coast road instead!

More time in El Naranjo, less time travelling!  I have been to El Naranjo/El Salto 5 times since 1984 and I still got 15 new birds there this trip.  I am sure I will get 10 more in May as well.

Thanks for all the recommendations and info we got from other Mexbirders!

Hope this helps someone else enjoy their trip!

Chris Harrison
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