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CHILE

October 12-21, 1998

Todd Mark, Louise Augustine, Pete Shen

Our itinerary was as follows:

day1 arrived 10 AM, then birded Yeso Valley until dusk
day2 Laguna del Laja NP
day3 Nahuelbuta NP
day4 Nahuelbuta NP
day5 Laguna El Peral to Quintero (Punta Liles)
day6 Valparaiso pelagic, Lago Penuelas NP, then Punta Concon
day7 La Campana NP
day8 La Campana NP, then Portillo
day9 Juncalito, Estero Lampa, then Yeso Valley
day10 Yeso Valley; back at airport 4 PM

We saw 145 species.

Suggested references (available from ABA):

"The Essential Guide to Birding in Chile" by Mark Pearman
"Collins Illustrated Checklist: Birds of Southern South America and
Antarctica" by Martin R. de la Pena and Maurice Rumboll
"The Birds of the High Andes" by Jon Fjesda and Neils Krabbe
"A Checklist of the Birds of Chile" by Steve N.G. Howell
"The Birds of Chile" Intl. Field Checklist Series by Russell Rogers
"Where to watch birds in South America" by Nigel Wheatley

Only brief notes are provided below to supplement information provided in Pearman's birding guide.  The respective section in Pearman's birding guide is referenced for each birding site (e.g., [C1: Embalse El Yeso]).  I would appreciate some feedback (inevitable corrections, constructive criticism, etc.) and any additional details, especially for sites that we found unproductive.  I'd like to return to Chile soon for another visit, so helpful hints would be greatly appreciated.

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October 12, 1998

We took Continental Airlines' very convenient direct flight from Newark, NJ to Santiago, arriving at 8:45 AM.  U.S.  citizens face a rude welcome in the form of a $45 "entrance fee" to Chile.  We picked up a rental car from Budget ($360 rental + $190 insurance + 20% taxes = $670 for 10 days).  We drove immediately for the Yeso Valley [C1: Embalse El Yeso], approximately a two-hour drive.  We drove/birded from the Puente Yeso to a point approximately 10 km beyond the Yeso reservoir, until about 4:30 PM.  CRAG CHILIA and MOUSTACHED TURCA were found exactly at the site mentioned in Pearman.  Close views of ANDEAN CONDOR was memorable.  We also had very close looks at GRAY-FLANKED CINCLODES in side-by-side comparison with DARK-BELLIED CINCLODES; the only Gray-flanked Cinclodes sighting of our trip.  The maps for the Diademed Sandpiper-Plover were confusing, and we didn't find the bird (but see 10/21/98 account below).

Km
0.0     San Jose de Maipo
27.0    Puente Yeso
48.8    near edge of Yeso reservoir
55.5    wooden bridge over main river
59.4    2nd wooden bridge
64.4    fork in the road; left fork goes uphill to the gypsum mine - it looked too rough for our vehicle; right fork dead-ends quickly (9100 ft) - we walked from here.  The approximate # kms driven today (Total km) = 136 km (+715 km overnight)

Site C1: Embalse El Yeso;  10-12-98
 
 
Crested Duck  Anas (Lophonetta) specularioides
Yellow-billed Pintail  Anas georgica
Andean Condor  Vultur gryphus
Red-backed Hawk  Buteo polyosoma
Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus
Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Gray-breasted Seedsnipe Thinocorus orbignyianus
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus
Rock Dove  Columba livia
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Black-winged Ground-Dove  Metriopelia melanoptera
Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas
Scale-throated Earthcreeper  Upucerthia dumetaria
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus
Gray-flanked Cinclodes  Cinclodes oustaleti
Dark-bellied Cinclodes  Cinclodes patagonicus
Crag Chilia  Chilia melanura
Moustached Turca Pteroptochos megapodius
White-crested Elaenia  Elaenia albiceps
White-browed Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola albilora
Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrant  Muscisaxicola flavinucha
Black-fronted Ground-Tyrant  Muscisaxicola frontalis
Shrike-Tyrant species
Austral Thrush Turdus falcklandii
Chilean Mockingbird  Mimus thenca
Southern House Wren  Troglodytes aedon musculus
Chilean Swallow  Tachycineta meyeni
Blue-and-white Swallow  Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Sparrow  Passer domesticus
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus gayi
Mourning Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus fruticeti
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus unicolor
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus alaudinus
Common Diuca-Finch  Diuca diuca
Greater Yellow-Finch Sicalis auriventris
Long-tailed Meadowlark  Sturnella loyca
Shiny Cowbird  Molothrus bonariensis

39 SPECIES
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October 13, 1998

We drove overnight, arriving at Laguna del Laja NP [S1: Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja] around 5 AM, 715 km later. We slept until 7:30 AM, then began birding at the volcanic lake (4400 ft), working our way back to the park entrance. It was freezing cold and windy, with frost on the ground in spots. In retrospect, it would have been better to start lower down, at the Chestnut-throated Huet-huet site just outside the park entrance (Track B), then bird the Laguna del Laja in the afternoon. Food could be found at the nearby tiny town. Track A could not be reached, because the dirt road that leads to it was claimed to be private property. We did not try track C. Two SPECTACLED DUCK and a pair of TORRENT DUCK (the striking "macuta" ssp) were found in the tiny reservoir behind the dam, just before the park entrance. To reach Track B (a Chestnut-throated Huet-huet site), park just outside the park entrance, and follow the trail as shown in Pearman. Climb over a wooden gate and head uphill. The CHESTNUT-THROATED HUET-HUET was heard and seen briefly just above the wooden gate. Continue up and over the ridge, down the back side to the valley bottom, where you will find a stream with stands of bamboo alongside. Walking up the valley (to the left) leads to larger, more dense stands of bamboo. The CHESTNUT-THROATED HUET-HUET was seen well here, as was MAGELLANIC TAPACULO. Tape playback is very useful for drawing out the tapaculos, though the huet-huets seemed less responsive. Late in the day, an AUSTRAL PYGMY-OWL began calling, and was seen well in the scope. We left for Nahuelbuta NP at 7:30 PM, arriving at midnight.

Total km = 200 km

Site S1: Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja; 10-13-98
 
Neotropic Cormorant  Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Torrent Duck  Merganetta armata
Spectacled Duck  Anas specularis
Yellow-billed Pintail  Anas georgica
Great Egret  Ardea alba
Andean Condor  Vultur gryphus
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle  Geranoaetus melanoleucus
Red-backed Hawk  Buteo polyosoma
Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
California Quail Callipepla californica
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Austral Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium nanum
Green-backed Firecrown  Sephanoides sephanoides
Chilean Flicker  Colaptes pitius
Scale-throated Earthcreeper  Upucerthia dumetaria
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus
Dark-bellied Cinclodes  Cinclodes patagonicus
Thorn-tailed Rayadito  Aphrastura spinicauda
Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail  Leptasthenura aegithaloides
White-throated Treerunner  Pygarrhichas albogularis
Chestnut-throated Huet-huet  Pteroptochos castaneus
Ochre-flanked Tapaculo  Eugralla paradoxa
Magellanic (Andean) Tapaculo  Scytalopus magellanicus
Rufous-tailed Plantcutter  Phytotoma rara
White-crested Elaenia  Elaenia albiceps
Fire-eyed Diucon Xolmis pyrope
White-browed Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola albilora
Austral Negrito  Lessonia rufa
Austral Thrush Turdus falcklandii
Chilean Mockingbird  Mimus thenca
Southern House Wren  Troglodytes aedon musculus
Chilean Swallow  Tachycineta meyeni
House Sparrow  Passer domesticus
Black-chinned Siskin Carduelis barbata
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus gayi
Mourning Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus fruticeti
Common Diuca-Finch  Diuca diuca
Long-tailed Meadowlark  Sturnella loyca
Austral Blackbird  Curaeus curaeus

42 SPECIES
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October 14, 1998

We car-camped in front of the locked entrance to Nahuelbuta NP [S2: Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta], waking up at 8 AM when the park guard came to open the gate. We paid the entrance fee ($3 p/p) and camping fee ($12). It seemed that the national parks usually were locked at night, and opened only about 8 AM. Although, it was quite cold at dawn, the temperature rose quickly with the sun. SLENDER-BILLED PARAKEET was conspicuous as flocks flew to/from feeding sites at dawn/dusk. We left the car at the campground, and birded Track C to Piedra del Aguila in the AM. We heard the CHUCAO TAPACULO calling everywhere, and the BLACK-THROATED HUET-HUET seemed almost as common, but we couldn't spot either. Otherwise rather uneventful, with the notable exception of a group of foraging MAGELLANIC WOODPECKER , and a CHILEAN BICOLORED HAWK that put in a brief (but close!) appearance. In the late afternoon, we walked the dirt road back towards the park entrance. We lucked out with a very low flying flock of Turkey Vultures (presumably looking for a roost site), which were joined by a RUFOUS-TAILED HAWK. Great views. We also managed brief views of the furtive DES MURS' WIRETAIL.

Total km = <10 km

October 15, 1998

I began birding the dirt road at dawn, again walking towards the main park entrance. By 9:30 AM, I'd seen all 4 tapaculo species: BLACK-THROATED HUET-HUET (only briefly as it flew across the road, landed on the opposite edge of the road only for about a second, then disappeared back into the bamboo), CHUCAO TAPACULO (two seen very well), OCHRE-FLANKED TAPACULO (two seen well as they called to one another), and MAGELLANIC TAPACULO (often heard - fairly easy to see with patience). I also enjoyed a leisurely view of a STRIPED WOODPECKER. TM and LA set out about a 1/2 hour later and saw only 3 tapaculo species, missing the huet-huet. I relaxed in the hot afternoon, washing clothes, etc. The facilities at the campground were good, though the shower was pretty cold. A MAGELLANIC WOODPECKER spent some time pounding away above our campsite. Meanwhile TM and LA birded Track B. Track B is misplaced on Pearson's map. The trailhead is very well marked, and begins a short distance further DOWN the road from the campground. They had good luck with CHUCAO TAPACULO again, seeing two singing at close range for several minutes. We left the campground at about 3 PM. Outside the park, we tried to make sense of Pearman's map for Vegas Blancas [S3: Vegas Blancas]. Either the site has been turned into a soccer field, or the map was unintelligible (or a bit of both). We continued on for Laguna El Peral, arriving at 3 AM.

Total km = ~600 km

Site S2: Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta; 10-14-98 to 10-15-98
 
Neotropic Cormorant  Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Black Vulture  Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Chilean Bicolored Hawk  Accipiter (bicolor) chilensis
Rufous-tailed Hawk  Buteo ventralis
Crested Caracara Caracara plancus
Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
California Quail Callipepla californica
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Rock Dove  Columba livia
Picui Ground-Dove  Columbina picui
Slender-billed Parakeet Enicognathus leptorhynchus
Austral Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium nanum
Green-backed Firecrown  Sephanoides sephaniodes
Striped Woodpecker  Picoides lignarius
Magellanic Woodpecker  Campephilus magellanicus
Des Murs' Wiretail  Sylviorthorhynchus desmursii
Thorn-tailed Rayadito  Aphrastura spinicauda
Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail  Leptasthenura aegithaloides
White-throated Treerunner  Pygarrhichas albogularis
Black-throated Huet-huet  Pteroptochos tarnii
Chucao Tapaculo  Scelorchilus rubecula
Ochre-flanked Tapaculo  Eugralla paradoxa
Magellanic (Andean) Tapaculo  Scytalopus magellanicus
White-crested Elaenia  Elaenia albiceps
Patagonian Tyrant  Colorhamphus parvirostris
Fire-eyed Diucon Xolmis pyrope
Tufted Tit-tyrant  Anairetes parulus
Austral Thrush Turdus falcklandii
Chilean Mockingbird  Mimus thenca
Southern House Wren  Troglodytes aedon musculus
Chilean Swallow  Tachycineta meyeni
House Sparrow  Passer domesticus
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus gayi
Common Diuca-Finch  Diuca diuca
Long-tailed Meadowlark  Sturnella loyca
Austral Blackbird  Curaeus curaeus
Shiny Cowbird  Molothrus bonariensis

42 SPECIES
_______________

October 16, 1998

It was relatively warm out tonight, so I just laid my sleeping bag alongside the car and slept well until a woman walking by woke me up at 7 AM. The birding at Laguna El Peral [C3.1: Laguna El Peral] was easy, especially compared to the previous days' tapaculo hunts. We saw many new species today, but nothing unusual. Although two ponds are suggested by Pearman's map, there only appears to be one. If a second one existed, it's now been developed. Patience is needed to look for birds at every point where you can view the lake - a few gaps in the vegetation unfortunately were found on the shoulder of the main road, which has loads of traffic. We then stopped briefly at the beach in El Tabo to look for the CHILEAN SEASIDE CINCLODES, and found one. A drive around the area [C3.2: El Tabo] was a waste of time. Although Pearman states that "the habitat east of town is mainly scrubby chaparral," we found that most of the area is posted private property, and found only a few pockets of native vegetation anyway. Unfortunately, Pearman doesn't provide a map of the area, so we may have missed the intended site. We dropped in at Valparaiso to solicit bids for a boat trip for the following day. Our bargaining skills only got us $70 per person for a 5 to 6 hour trip. We left a $100 deposit and continued on to Quintero to try a seawatch from the point [C4.2: Punta Liles], where we had two close CHILEAN SKUA flybys, and another CHILEAN SEASIDE CINCLODES. We found a waterfowl-filled roadside lagoon along the main highway, approx. 5 km beyond the turnoff to Quintero. We pitched our tent at a friendly motel along the main road between Vina del Mar and Concon at the turnoff to Vina Airport (<$5 per person), which served as a very convenient base for this area:

Hosteria El Tia Pela's
Tel# 974262 or 683199

They also had fairly inexpensive rooms.

Total km = 227

Sites C3.1: Laguna El Peral; C4.2: Punta Liles; 10-16-98
 
White-tufted Grebe  Rollandia rolland
Pied-billed Grebe  Podilymbus podiceps
Great Grebe  Podiceps major
Peruvian Booby Sula variegata
Neotropic Cormorant  Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Peruvian Pelican Pelecanus thagus
Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea
Lake Duck  Oxyura vittata
Black-necked Swan Cygnus melanocoryphus
Southern (Chiloe) Wigeon  Anas sibilatrix
Yellow-billed Pintail  Anas georgica
Cinnamon Teal  Anas cyanoptera
Red Shoveler  Anas platalea
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Great Egret  Ardea alba
Cattle Egret  Bubulcus ibis
Black-crowned Night-Heron  Nycticorax nycticorax
Black Vulture  Coragyps atratus
White-tailed Kite  Elanus leucurus
Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
California Quail Callipepla californica
Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus
Spot-flanked Gallinule  Gallinula melanops
Red-gartered Coot  Fulica armillata
Red-fronted Coot Fulica rufifrons
Whimbrel  Numenius phaeopus
Greater Yellowlegs  Tringa melanoleuca
Lesser Yellowlegs  Tringa flavipes
Ruddy Turnstone  Arenaria interpres
Surfbird  Aphriza virgata
Sanderling Calidris alba
Black-necked Stilt  Himantopus mexicanus
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Blackish Oystercatcher  Haematopus ater
Chilean Skua  Catharacta chilensis
Band-tailed Gull Larus belcheri
Gray Gull  Larus modestus
Kelp Gull  Larus dominicanus
Brown-hooded Gull Larus maculipennis
Black Skimmer  Rynchops niger
Rock Dove  Columba livia
Picui Ground-Dove  Columbina picui
Burrowing Owl  Speotyto cunicularia
Dark-bellied Cinclodes  Cinclodes patagonicus
Chilean Seaside Cinclodes  Cinclodes nigrofumosus
Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail  Leptasthenura aegithaloides
Wren-like Rushbird  Phleocryptes melanops
Rufous-tailed Plantcutter  Phytotoma rara
Many-colored Rush-Tyrant  Tachuris rubrigastra
Fire-eyed Diucon Xolmis pyrope
Austral Negrito  Lessonia rufa
Spectacled Tyrant  Hymenops perspicillatus
Austral Thrush Turdus falcklandii
Chilean Mockingbird  Mimus thenca
Southern House Wren  Troglodytes aedon musculus
Chilean Swallow  Tachycineta meyeni
Blue-and-white Swallow  Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Sparrow  Passer domesticus
Black-chinned Siskin Carduelis barbata
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Common Diuca-Finch  Diuca diuca
Grassland Yellow-Finch  Sicalis luteola
Yellow-winged Blackbird Agelaius thilius
Long-tailed Meadowlark  Sturnella loyca
Austral Blackbird  Curaeus curaeus
Shiny Cowbird  Molothrus bonariensis

68 SPECIES
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October 17, 1998

We arrived at the Valparaiso waterfront at 6 AM, parked our car literally steps from the boat, and were steaming out of the harbor before 7 AM. I saw an alcid-type bird flying away, which may have been a PERUVIAN DIVING-PETREL, but it got away when a wave soaked my bins at a critical moment, and we weren't given another opportunity. Soon we ran into a swarm of Sooty Shearwaters, which further out were replaced by hundreds (or even thousands?) of Pink-footed Shearwaters. Finally, we began to see CAPE PETREL, SOUTHERN GIANT PETREL and 4 species of ALBATROSS - the barrel of fish guts worked wonders. The seas became very rough, as the winds picked up in the late morning - waves crested at about 25 feet! We often felt like we were at the bottom of a bowl with walls of water on all sides. It was a challenge to remain standing, not to mention birding. I flipped over backwards only twice. We were disappointed not to see any storm-petrels or Pterodroma species, though we missed a bird that could have been a prion. On our return to the harbor, we encountered a lone HUMBOLDT PENGUIN that curiously gazed at our boat. We returned to the dock at 12:30 PM. Contact info:

Mauricio Madrid
Lancha #35, Valparaiso
Tel# 236662

They claimed to have run pelagic trips for birders on many occasions. They seemed to know what they were doing, and knew enough to get chum for the trip.

After picking up a few empanadas for lunch, we headed for Lake Penuelas NP [C4.3: Parque Nacional Lago Penuelas]. We reached the park at 3:00 PM when I took a nap while TM and LA scoured the eastern 1/4 of this giant lake. GREAT GREBE and CORRENDERA PIPIT was especially numerous. We then drove most of the southern edge of the lake, finally picking up WHITE-WINGED COOT, but the search for the BLACK-HEADED DUCK frustrated us. Currently, the park is only open weekends and holidays from 8 AM to 6 PM, when hordes of noisy picnickers and fisherman occupy the vast majority of shoreline. Since the park closes early, we returned to the coast to spend the remaining daylight hours at Punta Concon [C4.1: Punta Concon] where we had wonderful scope views of a pair of CHILEAN SEASIDE CINCLODES, but nothing new.

Total km = 150 km

Sites C4: Valparaiso Pelagic; C4.3: Parque Nacional Lago Penuelas; C4.1: Punta Concon; 10-17-98
 
 
Pied-billed Grebe  Podilymbus podiceps
Great Grebe  Podiceps major
Humboldt Penguin Spheniscus humboldti
Royal Albatross  Diomedea epomophora
Black-browed Albatross  Diomedea melanophris
Salvin's Albatross  Diomedea cauta salvini
Buller's Albatross  Diomedea bulleri
Southern Giant Petrel  Macronectes giganteus
Cape Petrel  Daption capense
Pink-footed Shearwater  Puffinus creatopus
Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus
Peruvian Booby Sula variegata
Neotropic Cormorant  Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Guanay Cormorant Phalacrocorax bougainvillii
Red-legged Cormorant Phalacrocorax gaimardi
Peruvian Pelican Pelecanus thagus
Black-necked Swan Cygnus melanocoryphus
Southern (Chiloe) Wigeon  Anas sibilatrix
Yellow-billed Pintail  Anas georgica
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Cocoi Heron  Ardea cocoi
Great Egret  Ardea alba
Black-crowned Night-Heron  Nycticorax nycticorax
Black Vulture  Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Chimango Caracara  Milvago chimango
California Quail Callipepla californica
White-winged Coot Fulica leucoptera
Red-gartered Coot  Fulica armillata
Greater Yellowlegs  Tringa melanoleuca
Ruddy Turnstone  Arenaria interpres
Surfbird  Aphriza virgata
Sanderling Calidris alba
Red Phalarope  Phalaropus fulicaria
American Oystercatcher  Haematopus palliatus
Black-necked Stilt  Himantopus mexicanus
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Band-tailed Gull Larus belcheri
Gray Gull  Larus modestus
Kelp Gull  Larus dominicanus
Brown-hooded Gull Larus maculipennis
South American Tern  Sterna hirundinacea
Inca Tern  Larosterna inca
Chilean Skua  Catharacta chilensis
Rock Dove  Columba livia
Chilean Seaside Cinclodes  Cinclodes nigrofumosus
White-crested Elaenia  Elaenia albiceps
Tufted Tit-Tyrant  Anairetes parulus
Austral Negrito  Lessonia rufa
Austral Thrush Turdus falcklandii
Chilean Mockingbird  Mimus thenca
Southern House Wren  Troglodytes aedon musculus
Chilean Swallow  Tachycineta meyeni
Blue-and-white Swallow  Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Sparrow  Passer domesticus
Correndera Pipit Anthus correndera
Black-chinned Siskin Carduelis barbata
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus alaudinus
Common Diuca-Finch  Diuca diuca
Grassland Yellow-Finch  Sicalis luteola
Long-tailed Meadowlark  Sturnella loyca
Austral Blackbird  Curaeus curaeus

63 SPECIES
_____________________________

October 18, 1998

We missed our alarm and got a late start at 6:30 AM. The drive to La Campana NP [C6: Parque Nacional La Campana] was only 50 km; and took less than an hour on this Sunday morning. We arrived at 7:30 AM, and waited for the park staff to open the gates at 8 AM. While we waited, we saw CHILEAN PIGEON; a species that we couldn't find at any other site but was common here. We paid the entrance fee ($3 p/p) and camping fee ($12), set up our tent, and started up the road to the mineshaft. We could not find the trail to Cerro Penitentis. The map in Wheatley seemed more accurate than Pearman's map. TM flushed a CHILEAN TINAMOU from the road, but LA and I didn't see much of the bird. DUSKY-TAILED CANASTERO was fairly easily found in the dry scrub. In the heat of the day, we returned to Olmue to get lunch and food supplies. The Sunday crowds had arrived anyway, so we decided to put off birding until 4 PM. Late afternoon birding up the long (4 km) and steep Sendero Andinista and back down the main road (8 km; much of it in the dark) produced GREEN-BACKED FIRECROWN, a DES MURS' WIRETAIL and DUSKY TAPACULO (2 seen, whereas many more were heard singing). At dusk, a distant AUSTRAL PYGMY-OWL and much closer RUFOUS-LEGGED OWL began calling. Tape playback got one RUFOUS-LEGGED OWL to approach, but we couldn't spot it. BAND-WINGED NIGHTJAR sat on the road. We got back to camp at 9 PM.

October 19, 1998

We started up the road in the dark at 5:30 AM, so that we could begin birding at dawn in the vicinity of the mine. A RUFOUS-LEGGED OWL was calling near our campsite, and BAND-WINGED NIGHTJAR was again seen on the road. I may have had a WHITE-THROATED TAPACULO fly across the road, but the view was too brief, and we weren't given another chance. Moreover, we couldn't figure out whether we were hearing its song. What is it supposed to sound like? I did get excellent looks at a pair of MOUSTACHED TURCA, and they frequently could be heard singing. I also got great eye-level views at a CHILEAN BICOLORED HAWK which was too busy stalking prey to mind my presence. We heard a STRIPED WOODPECKER tapping, and eventually got nice views. By noon, we were on our way to Portillo, arriving at 3 PM. Parking our car at the Hosteria just before the Customs checkpoint, we birded Track A across the road from the Hosteria. The wind was howling, but we managed to find a couple of CREAMY-RUMPED MINER, right next to the road. TM hiked further up the cliffs to find CORDILLERAN CANASTERO, but not much else. At 5 PM, we headed back down to Juncalito, saw 3 ANDEAN CONDOR enroute, and birded Track B which produced WHITE-SIDED HILLSTAR and YELLOW-RUMPED SISKIN. We had to go back downhill ~40 km to find a place to stay: Hostel La Gringa (Tel# 481146) at 3400 ft ($10 p/p).

Total km = 180 km

Sites C6: Parque Nacional La Campana; C7: Portillo; 10/18/98 to 10/19/98
 
Chilean Tinamou  Nothoprocta perdicaria
Andean Condor  Vultur gryphus
Chilean (Bicolored) Hawk  Accipter (bicolor) chilensis
Red-backed Hawk  Buteo polyosoma
Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus
Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango
California Quail Callipepla californica
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Rock Dove  Columba livia
Chilean Pigeon Columba araucana
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Picui Ground-Dove  Columbina picui
Rufous-legged Owl (H)  Strix rufipes
Austral Pygmy-Owl (H)  Glaucidium nanum
Band-winged Nightjar Caprimulgus longirostris
White-sided Hillstar Oreotrochilus leucopleurus
Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas
Green-backed Firecrown  Sephanoides sephaniodes
Striped Woodpecker  Picoides lignarius
Chilean Flicker  Colaptes pitius
Creamy-rumped Miner  Geositta isabellina
Scale-throated Earthcreeper  Upucerthia dumetaria
Dark-bellied Cinclodes  Cinclodes patagonicus
Des Murs' Wiretail  Sylviorthorhynchus desmursii
Thorn-tailed Rayadito  Aphrastura spinicauda
Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail  Leptasthenura aegithaloides
Cordilleran Canastero  Asthenes modesta
Dusky-tailed Canastero  Asthenes humicola
Moustached Turca Pteroptochos megapodius
Dusky (Andean) Tapaculo  Scytalopus fuscus
White-crested Elaenia  Elaenia albiceps
Tufted Tit-Tyrant  Anairetes parulus
Patagonian Tyrant  Colorhamphus parvirostris
Fire-eyed Diucon Xolmis pyrope
Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant  Muscisaxicola maculirostris
Black-fronted Ground-Tyrant  Muscisaxicola frontalis
Austral Thrush Turdus falcklandii
Chilean Mockingbird  Mimus thenca
Southern House Wren  Troglodytes aedon musculus
Chilean Swallow  Tachycineta meyeni
Blue-and-white Swallow  Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Sparrow  Passer domesticus
Yellow-rumped Siskin Carduelis uropygialis
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus gayi
Mourning Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus fruticeti
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus alaudinus
Common Diuca-Finch  Diuca diuca
Greater Yellow-Finch Sicalis auriventris
Long-tailed Meadowlark  Sturnella loyca
Austral Blackbird  Curaeus curaeus
Shiny Cowbird  Molothrus bonariensis

52 SPECIES
__________________________________________________

October 20, 1998

We left the hotel a little late at 7 AM. By the time we arrived back at Juncalito, it was well past dawn. We spent the next few hours birding Track B - the dirt road was a bit rough in spots, but we were able to drive quite a way in, until we reached an impassable stream crossing. WHITE-SIDED HILLSTAR was common, as was RUFOUS-BANDED MINER. With some difficulty, we were all able to see the skulking SHARP-BILLED CANASTERO well. It has the unusual habit of sneaking out the back of a bush, then flushing and flying a short distance, but directly into the center of another bush... somewhat maddening. Running out of target species, we decided to head for Lampa [Site C2: Estero Lampa], hoping for the advertised ROSY-BILLED POCHARD, STREAK-BACKED BITTERN and AMERICAN PAINTED-SNIPE. Arriving at mid-day, we found that the estuary was not much more than a stream and it was sun-blazing hot. We walked the levee some distance, but since the surrounding fields weren't flooded (as apparently occurs seasonally), the site didn't seem promising and we gave up. We spent the remainder of the afternoon driving back up the Yeso Valley [C1: Embalse El Yeso]. This time, we successfully deciphered Pearson's map for the Diademed site. Take the immediate left turn after the first (wooden) bridge that crosses the main river. Proceed about 2 km to the quarry (dead end) - a shallow stream crossing was necessary. The bog beyond the quarry is a site for the Diademed Sandpiper-Plover. We got to the bog at 7:30 PM and found a DIADEMED SANDPIPER-PLOVER within 15 minutes, which was accented by displaying SOUTH AMERICAN SNIPE and GRAY-BREASTED SEEDSNIPE under a dramatic sunset. As the light faded, a tapaculo was curiously checking out our presence. It looked like a MAGELLANIC TAPACULO without a white crown patch - unfortunately it did not vocalize. We set up our tent in the quarry, which made for a bumpy mattress.

Total km = 330 km

Sites C7: Portillo; C2: Estero Lampa; C1: Embalse El Yeso; 10-20-98
 
Southern (Chiloe) Wigeon  Anas sibilatrix
Yellow-billed Pintail  Anas georgica
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Great Egret  Ardea alba
Andean Condor  Vultur gryphus
White-tailed Kite  Elanus leucurus
Red-backed Hawk  Buteo polyosoma
Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
California Quail Callipepla californica
Red-gartered Coot  Fulica armillata
South American Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae megallanicus
Gray-breasted Seedsnipe Thinocorus orbignyianus
Diademed Sandpiper-Plover  Phegornis mitchellii
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Rock Dove  Columba livia
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Picui Ground-Dove  Columbina picui
Black-winged Ground-Dove  Metriopelia melanoptera
Burrowing Owl  Speotyto cunicularia
White-sided Hillstar Oreotrochilus leucopleurus
Rufous-banded Miner  Geositta rufipennis
Scale-throated Earthcreeper  Upucerthia dumetaria
Dark-bellied Cinclodes  Cinclodes patagonicus
Sharp-billed (Lesser) Canastero  Asthenes pyrrholeuca
Cordilleran Canastero  Asthenes modesta
Wren-like Rushbird  Phleocryptes melanops
Magellanic (?) Tapaculo  Scytalopus magellanicus
White-crested Elaenia  Elaenia albiceps
Many-colored Rush-Tyrant  Tachuris rubrigastra
Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola rufivertex
White-browed Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola albilora
Black-fronted Ground-Tyrant  Muscisaxicola frontalis
Austral Negrito  Lessonia rufa
Spectacled Tyrant  Hymenops perspicillatus
Austral Thrush Turdus falcklandii
Chilean Mockingbird  Mimus thenca
Southern House Wren  Troglodytes aedon musculus
Chilean Swallow  Tachycineta meyeni
Blue-and-white Swallow  Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Sparrow  Passer domesticus
Correndera Pipit Anthus correndera
Yellow-rumped Siskin Carduelis uropygialis
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus gayi
Mourning Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus fruticeti
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus unicolor
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus alaudinus
Common Diuca-Finch  Diuca diuca
Greater Yellow-Finch Sicalis auriventris
Grassland Yellow-Finch  Sicalis luteola
Yellow-winged Blackbird Agelaius thilius
Long-tailed Meadowlark  Sturnella loyca
Shiny Cowbird  Molothrus bonariensis

55 SPECIES
__________________________________________________

October 21, 1998

We arose to birds everywhere, including huge numbers of GREATER YELLOW-FINCH that appeared to spend the night around the quarry. The bird activity was concentrated on the slopes that were exposed to the early morning sun. The surprise of the morning was a male THICK-BILLED SISKIN that landed alongside a stream, providing excellent views for several minutes at less than 50 feet. Three DIADEMED SANDPIPER-PLOVER (2 adults and a young bird) allowed close approach - really cute birds. Close views of two of those Scytalopus tapaculos confirmed the lack of a white crown, but again, neither vocalized. On the way out, we stopped for another quick look at CRAG CHILIA. We left the Yeso Valley at around 2 PM, heading for the airport. Not far from the airport we stopped at a gigantic supermarket, which in retrospect, would be an ideal place to stock up on provisions before heading out. Our flight out was uneventful. Thankfully, the Chilean departure tax was only $18 - we expected to get screwed on both ends. Of course, the 20% tax on rental cars came to $120! (though this taxing experience is not unlike car rentals out of some US airports).
 

Total km = 110 km

Site C1: Embalse El Yeso; 10-21-98
 
Yellow-billed Pintail  Anas georgica
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle  Geranoaetus melanoleucus
Red-backed Hawk  Buteo polyosoma
Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
South American Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae megallanica
Gray-breasted Seedsnipe Thinocorus orbignyianus
Diademed Sandpiper-Plover  Phegornis mitchellii
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Rock Dove  Columba livia
Black-winged Ground-Dove  Metriopelia melanoptera
Rufous-banded Miner  Geositta rufipennis
Scale-throated Earthcreeper  Upucerthia dumetaria
Dark-bellied Cinclodes  Cinclodes patagonicus
Crag Chilia  Chilia melanura
Sharp-billed (Lesser) Canastero  Asthenes pyrrholeuca
Cordilleran Canastero  Asthenes modesta
Magellanic (?) Tapaculo  Scytalopus magellanicus
White-crested Elaenia  Elaenia albiceps
White-browed Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola albilora
Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrant  Muscisaxicola flavinucha
Black-fronted Ground-Tyrant  Muscisaxicola frontalis
Austral Thrush Turdus falcklandii
Southern House Wren  Troglodytes aedon musculus
Blue-and-white Swallow  Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Sparrow  Passer domesticus
Thick-billed Siskin  Carduelis crassirostris
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus gayi
Mourning Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus fruticeti
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus unicolor
Common Diuca-Finch  Diuca diuca
Greater Yellow-Finch Sicalis auriventris
Long-tailed Meadowlark  Sturnella loyca
Shiny Cowbird  Molothrus bonariensis

35 SPECIES

__________________________________________________

Chile TRIP LIST

UPPERCASE denotes a species restricted to southern South America according to the range maps in "Collins Illustrated Checklist: Birds of Southern South America and Antarctica."
 
CHILEAN TINAMOU Nothoprocta perdicaria
White-tufted Grebe  Rollandia rolland
Pied-billed Grebe  Podilymbus podiceps
Great Grebe  Podiceps major
Humboldt Penguin Spheniscus humboldti
Royal Albatross  Diomedea epomophora
Black-browed Albatross  Diomedea melanophris
Shy Albatross  Diomedea cauta
Buller's Albatross  Diomedea bulleri
Southern Giant Petrel  Macronectes giganteus
Cape Petrel  Daption capense
Pink-footed Shearwater Puffinus creatopus
Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus
Peruvian Booby Sula variegata
Neotropic Cormorant  Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Guanay Cormorant Phalacrocorax bougainvillii
Red-legged Cormorant Phalacrocorax gaimardi
Peruvian Pelican Pelecanus thagus
Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea
LAKE DUCK  Oxyura vittata
BLACK-NECKED SWAN Cygnus melanocoryphus
Torrent Duck  Merganetta armata
SOUTHERN (CHILOE) WIGEON Anas sibilatrix
Crested Duck  Anas specularioides
SPECTACLED DUCK  Anas specularis
Yellow-billed Pintail  Anas georgica
Cinnamon Teal  Anas cyanoptera
Red Shoveler  Anas platalea
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Cocoi Heron  Ardea cocoi
Great Egret  Ardea alba
Cattle Egret  Bubulcus ibis
Black-crowned Night-Heron  Nycticorax nycticorax
Black Vulture  Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Andean Condor  Vultur gryphus
White-tailed Kite  Elanus leucurus
CHILEAN BICOLORED HAWK  Accipiter bicolor
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle  Geranoaetus melanoleucus
Red-backed Hawk  Buteo polyosoma
RUFOUS-TAILED HAWK  Buteo ventralis
Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus
Crested Caracara Caracara plancus
Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
California Quail Callipepla californica
Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus
Spot-flanked Gallinule  Gallinula melanops
White-winged Coot Fulica leucoptera
RED-GARTERED COOT Fulica armillata
RED-FRONTED COOT  Fulica rufifrons
South American Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae
Whimbrel  Numenius phaeopus
Greater Yellowlegs  Tringa melanoleuca
Lesser Yellowlegs  Tringa flavipes
Ruddy Turnstone  Arenaria interpres
Surfbird  Aphriza virgata
Sanderling Calidris alba
Red Phalarope  Phalaropus fulicaria
Gray-breasted Seedsnipe Thinocorus orbignyianus
American Oystercatcher  Haematopus palliatus
Blackish Oystercatcher  Haematopus negro
Black-necked Stilt  Himantopus mexicanus
Diademed Sandpiper-Plover  Phegornis mitchellii
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Band-tailed Gull Larus belcheri
Gray Gull  Larus modestus
Kelp Gull  Larus dominicanus
Brown-hooded Gull Larus maculipennis
South American Tern  Sterna hirundinacea
Inca Tern  Larosterna inca
Chilean Skua  Catharacta chilensis
Black Skimmer  Rynchops niger
Rock Dove  Columba livia
CHILEAN PIGEON Columba araucana
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Picui Ground-Dove  Columbina picui
Black-winged Ground-Dove  Metriopelia melanoptera
SLENDER-BILLED PARAKEET  Enicognathus leptorhynchus
Rufous-legged Owl (heard)  Strix rufipes
AUSTRAL PYGMY-OWL  Glaucidium nanum
Burrowing Owl  Speotyto cunicularia
Band-winged Nightjar Caprimulgus longirostris
WHITE-SIDED HILLSTAR Oreotrochilus leucopleurus
Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas
GREEN-BACKED FIRECROWN  Sephanoides sephaniodes
STRIPED WOODPECKER Picoides lignarius
CHILEAN FLICKER  Colaptes pitius
MAGELLANIC WOODPECKER Campephilus magellanicus
CREAMY-RUMPED MINER  Geositta isabellina
Rufous-banded Miner  Geositta rufipennis
Scale-throated Earthcreeper  Upucerthia dumetaria
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus
GRAY-FLANKED CINCLODES  Cinclodes oustaleti
DARK-BELLIED CINCLODES  Cinclodes patagonicus
CHILEAN SEASIDE CINCLODES  Cinclodes nigrofumosus
CRAG CHILIA Chilia melanura
DES MURS' WIRETAIL  Sylviorthorhynchus desmursii
THORN-TAILED RAYADITO Aphrastura spinicauda
Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail  Leptasthenura aegithaloides
SHARP-BILLED (LESSER) CANASTERO  Asthenes pyrrholeuca
Cordilleran Canastero  Asthenes modesta
DUSKY-TAILED CANASTERO  Asthenes humicola
Wren-like Rushbird  Phleocryptes melanops
WHITE-THROATED TREERUNNER  Pygarrhichas albogularis
BLACK-THROATED HUET-HUET  Pteroptochos tarnii
CHESTNUT-THROATED HUET-HUET  Pteroptochos castaneus
MOUSTACHED TURCA  Pteroptochos megapodius
CHUCAO TAPACULO Scelorchilus rubecula
OCHRE-FLANKED TAPACULO  Eugralla paradoxa
MAGELLANIC (ANDEAN) TAPACULO Scytalopus magellanicus
DUSKY (ANDEAN) TAPACULO  Scytalopus fuscus
RUFOUS-TAILED PLANTCUTTER  Phytotoma rara
White-crested Elaenia  Elaenia albiceps
Tufted Tit-Tyrant  Anairetes parulus
Many-colored Rush-Tyrant  Tachuris rubrigastra
PATAGONIAN TYRANT Colorhamphus parvirostris
FIRE-EYED DIUCON Xolmis pyrope
Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant  Muscisaxicola maculirostris
Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola rufivertex
White-browed Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola albilora
Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrant  Muscisaxicola flavinucha
BLACK-FRONTED GROUND-TYRANT  Muscisaxicola frontalis
AUSTRAL NEGRITO Lessonia rufa
Spectacled Tyrant  Hymenops perspicillatus
AUSTRAL THRUSH Turdus falcklandii
CHILEAN MOCKINGBIRD  Mimus thenca
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
CHILEAN SWALLOW Tachycineta meyeni
Blue-and-white Swallow  Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Sparrow  Passer domesticus
Correndera Pipit Anthus correndera
Thick-billed Siskin  Carduelis crassirostris
BLACK-CHINNED SISKIN Carduelis barbata
Yellow-rumped Siskin Carduelis uropygialis
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
GRAY-HOODED SIERRA-FINCH  Phrygilus gayi
Mourning Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus fruticeti
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus unicolor
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch  Phrygilus alaudinus
Common Diuca-Finch  Diuca diuca
GREATER YELLOW-FINCH  Sicalis auriventris
Grassland Yellow-Finch  Sicalis luteola
Yellow-winged Blackbird Agelaius thilius
LONG-TAILED MEADOWLARK  Sturnella loyca
AUSTRAL BLACKBIRD Curaeus curaeus
Shiny Cowbird  Molothrus bonariensis

148 species including one heard only

Pete Shen
New York City
pjshen@hotmail.com