6 - 10 December 1998
by Mark Lockwood
This was our second trip to the west slope of the Andes. This was a shorter trip that normal and we stayed the entire time at Bellavista Lodge near the small village of Tandayapa. The forest around Bellavista is incredible and the birding is fantastic. December is not the best time to visit this region of Ecuador. It is at the height of the dry season and it was sunny during most of our stay. Despite the sunny weather, we were able to find most of our target birds and had the opportunity to see some very special birds, such as Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, Toucan Barbet, Tanager Finch, Swallow-tailed Nightjar and Yellow-breasted Antpitta.
The Bellavista Lodge is an interesting place. It is a dome made primarily of bamboo. There is no electricity, a fact that is not mentioned on either of their web pages. The food is good and primarily vegetarian. The accommodations are interesting. The bamboo walls provide very little sound proofing and the bathrooms are quite small and unlit. There are gas lamps in each room and hot water is provided. By U.S. standards, the place is quite rustic and probably overpriced. I will say, that we had a great time and thoroughly enjoyed our stay. I would have no problem recommending Bellavista, but they need to provide a little more information about the accommodations.
Bellavista sets on a point overlooking the deep valley that the Nono-Mindo Road follows. The property held within the Bellavista Clouds Forest Reserve is on a relatively steep slope, so that when hiking one either has to hike uphill either when leaving the lodge or returning. There is an extensive network of trails through the forest. We primarily birded two trails and the Nono-Mindo Road, which passes through the property. In the annotated list of birds we observed below I refer some of the trails by name. I have also divided the trails into two groups, those that are higher in elevation than the lodge and those that are lower in elevation. We spent more time on the lower elevation trails. Here is a brief description of the trails we frequented.
Nono-Mindo Road - We birded the road both above and below the lodge. There are extensive bamboo thickets above the lodge and quality forest below. While we were there, between trail D (see below) and the waterfall was the best stretch of the road for birding.
The upper trails:
H trail - begins at the entrance to the lodge. This trail basically contours along the slope for about a quarter of a mile (possibly longer) then abruptly begins climbing the slope to the Nanegalito Road. The climb is quite arduous and we usually birded the flat part of the trail. The F trail provides an easier assent to to the road. This was the only trail we regularly birded above the lodge. Excellent forest birding.
Nanegalito Road - This road leads from the Nono-Mindo Road to the village of Nanegalito and eventually meets the highway. This road also provided excellent birding opportunities.
Lower trails:
C trail - begins at the lodge and goes directly down slope. It is very steep, but does offer good forest birding. We only walked the entire trail once, but I did walk down into the forest just below the lodge frequently.
D trail - This trail begins near the lower boundary of the reserve. It contours along the slope to a small water fall and then becomes very difficult to follow. We birded the stretch between the start of the trail and the waterfall several times and found this trail to have the best birding of any trail we followed.
We made our lodging and transportation arrangements directly through Richard Parsons, the owner of Bellavista via email (aecie3@ecnet.ec). I contact Jane Lyons separately to arrange for our day trip to the Choco lowlands. Her husband, Vinicio Perez offers guide services in Mindo and is a good birder.
ITINERARY:
6 December - Traveled from Quito to Bellavista Lodge on Nono-Mindo road. Morning spent at Yanacocha. Bellavista Lodge is located on the old Nono-Mindo Road, 6 km (by road) above Tandayapa near Tandayapa Pass.
7 December - Birded trails above Bellavista Lodge in the morning. Afternoon spent on trails between Bellavista Lodge and falls on the road to Tandayapa.
8 December - Morning birding on the road and trails between Bellavista Lodge and falls on the road to Tandayapa. Afternoon spent in vicinity of lodge and trails above lodge.
9 December - Birded forest and open habitats along an unpaved road at km 132 on main highway west of Los Bancos (approximately 10 km west of Pedro Vicente Maldanado), also birded trail into good primary growth forest. Made a brief stop near Los Bancos on the way back to Bellavista Lodge. Day spent with Vinicio Perez and Jane Lyons.
10 December - Morning birding on the road and trails between Bellavista Lodge and the falls on the road to Tandayapa. Afternoon spent in vicinity of lodge.
SPECIES LIST LEGEND:
BL - in vicinity of Bellavista Lodge, including the upper portion of the C trail
HT - trails on Bellavista property above (higher in elevation) the lodge, including the road toward Mindo, the Nanegalito Road and the H trail
LT - trail on Bellavista property below (lower in elevation) the lodge, including the road to Tandayapa as far down as the falls and the D trail to the small falls.
Bellavista - entire Bellavista property, including BL, HT, and LT
YA - Yanacocha
PVM - road at KM 132 of main highway between Los Bancos and Esmeraldas, approximately 10 km west of Pedro Vicente Maldanado.
SPECIES LIST:
| Little Tinamou | One seen and at least five others heard along road near Pedro Vicente Maldanado. |
| Black Vulture | small numbers seen daily at Bellavista and PVM |
| Turkey Vulture | less commonly observed than Black Vulture at Bellavista and PVM |
| Plumbeous Kite | two seen very well along road near PVM on the 10th. |
| Plain-breasted Hawk | one seen in silhouette at YA, one seen from the road below BL (LT) on the 8th and another near Los Bancos on the 9th |
| Barred Hawk | a pair seen soaring over the road near the H trail below Bellavista on the 10th |
| Roadside Hawk | Two seen along the Nono-Mindo Road between Nono and Tandayapa on the 6th |
| White-rumped Hawk | One seen from BL on the 7th and two soaring together along the road below the D trail (LT) on the 10th |
| Black-and-chestnut Eagle | one seen overhead along the road below the D trail (LT) on the 10th |
| American Kestrel | Three above Nono on the 6th, one above Bellavista on the 9th. |
| Rock Dove | Two along the road near the D trail (LT) on the 7th |
| Band-tailed Pigeon | Two or three daily on the Bellavista property |
| Ruddy Pigeon | Three at PVM on the 9th |
| Plumbeous Pigeon | Two along the road below the D trail (LT) on the 8th |
| Eared Dove | common in Quito |
| White-tipped Dove | Singles on the D trail and the road (LT) on the 7th and one on the H trail (HT) on the 8th |
| White-throated Quail-Dove | One seen very well just below BL on the C trail on the 7th. |
| Maroon-tailed Parakeet | Two small flocks were seen at PVM on the 9th |
| Pacific Parrotlet | Two were seen at PVM on the 9th |
| Red-billed Parrot | small flocks (2 to 10) were seen on the 7th, 8th and 10th at Bellavista |
| Bronze-winged Parrot | A flock of 37 birds was seen near Los Bancos on the 9th |
| Scaly-naped Parrot | Six+ at PVM on the 9th |
| Squirrel Cuckoo | Singles at BL on the 7th and along the road below the D trail (LT), and two on the 9th at PVM |
| Little Cuckoo | One at PVM on the 9th |
| Striped Cuckoo | One at PVM on the 9th |
| Smooth-billed Ani | Three at PVM on the 9th |
| Rufous-bellied Nighthawk | Two seen before sunrise from the road below the lodge (LT) on the 8th |
| Swallow-tailed Nightjar | A female seen at about 5:30 am on the road below BL and a male seen at the first curve of the road below BL at dusk, both on the 8th |
| White-collared Swift | Two to five seen from the road (LT) on the 8th and 10th. About 20 at BL on the 10th |
| Chestnut-collared Swift | 20 to 30 seen at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th, and 10th. |
| White-tipped Swift | Five seen from the road below the D trail (LT) on the 8th and three there on the 10th |
| Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift | One at PVM on the 9th |
| Tawny-breasted Hermit | One came to the feeder irregularly at BL on the 8th and 10th. |
| Green Violet-ear | One at the feeds at BL on the 7th, 8th and 10th. |
| Sparkling Violet-ear | One or two were seen along the between Nono and Tandayapa on the 6th |
| Green Thorntail | Two females were seen coming to flowers at PVM on the 9th |
| Blue-tailed (Western) Emerald | A male was observed on the LT and a female at BL on the 10th |
| Purple-chested Hummingbird | One at PVM on the 9th |
| Speckled Hummingbird | Common, up to 10 at the feeders at BL and frequently seen along the trails at Bellavista |
| Fawn-breasted Brillant | One or two at the feeders at BL on the 6th, 7th, 8th and 10th. |
| Collared Inca | About five coming to the feeders at BL on the 6th, 7th, 8th and 10th. |
| Buff-tailed Coronet | Up to 20 at the feeders at BL on the 6th, 7th, 8th, and 10th. |
| Gorgeted Sunangel | Five or six coming to the feeders at BL on the 6th, 7th, 8th, and 10th. |
| Sapphire-vented Puffleg | Two at YA and another near Nono on the 6th |
| Hoary Puffleg | One studied at length on the Nono-Mindo Road about 5 km above Tandayapa on the 6th. |
| Violet-tailed Sylph | Two along the D trail (LT) on the 7th. |
| Purple-crowned Fairy | Two at PVM on the 9th |
| Purple-throated Woodstar | Up to three females coming to the feeders at BL on the 6th, 7th, 8th, and 10th. |
| White-eyed Trogon | One seen very well at PVM on the 9th |
| Masked Trogon | Two along the Nanegalito Road on the afternoon of the 8th. |
| Red-headed Barbet | One male near the falls on the road to Tandayapa on the 10th |
| Toucan Barbet | Singles seen at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th, and 10th. |
| Crimson-rumped Toucanet | Two near the falls on the road to Tandayapa on the 10th |
| Stripe-billed Aracari | Three along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th |
| Pale-mandibled Aracari | 20+ in open habitats at PVM on the 9th. |
| Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan | One on the D trail (LT) on the 8th and two along the Nanegalito Road on the 10th. |
| Choco Toucan | One seen from the highway near Los Bancos on the 9th. |
| Olivaceous Piculet | One at PVM on the 9th |
| Black-cheeked Woodpecker | One along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Crimson-mantled Woodpecker | One along the D trail (LT) on the LT on the 7th. |
| Guayaquil Woodpecker | Two at PVM on the 9th. |
| Powerful Woodpecker | Two females along the H trail (HT) on the 7th. |
| Pale-legged Hornero | Two at PVM on the 9th |
| Azara's Spinetail | Two near Nono on the 6th. Fairly common at Bellavista with two to three seen daily and several others heard. |
| Slaty Spinetail | One bathing in a pool formed on a large leaf at BL on the 7th |
| Rufous Spinetail | One seen well on the 8th along the Nanegalito Road (HT). |
| Pearled Treerunner | Two to three seen on the H trail and other HT areas on the 7th and 8th. |
| Spotted Barbtail | One near the small falls on the D trail (LT) on the 8th |
| Rusty-winged Barbtail | One seen along the road (LT) on the 6th. |
| Streaked Tuftedcheek | One along the D trail (LT) on the 8th and two near BL on the 10th |
| Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner | One along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th |
| Striped Treehunter | Three to five around BL and HT on the 6th, 7th and 8th. |
| Streak-capped Treehunter | Two along the road between the D trail and the falls (LT) on the 7th. |
| Plain Xenops | One along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Tyrannine Woodcreeper | One along the D trail (LT) on the 7th |
| Spotted Woodcreeper | Four along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th |
| Plain-brown Woodceeper | Three along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th |
| Montane Woodcreeper | Three along the D trail (LT) on the 7th and three at BL on the 10th |
| Uniform Antshrike | A female near the falls (LT) on the road to Tandayapa on the 10th |
| Western Slaty-Antshrike | At least five at PVM on the 9th |
| Checker-throated Antwren | Four along the forest trail and one along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Dot-winged Antwren | 15+ along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th |
| Long-tailed Antbird | Three along the road between the D trail and the falls (LT) on the 8th |
| Chestnut-crowned Antpitta | Frequently heard, one seen well on the 10th along the road between the D trail and the falls (LT). |
| Yellow-breasted Antpitta | One seen in the same location between 5:30 and 5:45 am on the road below BL on the 8th and 10th. |
| Unicolored (Blackish) Tapaculo | One seen and many heard at YA on the 6th. |
| Narino Tapaculo | One seen very well along the road below BL (LT) on the 10th |
| Spillmann's Tapaculo | Very common at Bellavista, singles seen on the 7th and 8th. |
| Sooty-headed Tyrannulet | Two, or three, along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th |
| Black-capped Tyrannulet | Three along the H trail (HT) on the 7th |
| Golden-faced Tyrannulet | One along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Brown-capped Tyrannulet | Two along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Southern Beardless Tyrannulet | Singles near Tandayapa on the 6th and PVM on the 9th |
| Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet | Two along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th |
| White-crested Elaenia | One above Nono on the 6th |
| White-throated Tyrannulet | Three at YA and one above Nono on the 6th |
| White-tailed Tyrannulet | Singles at YA and Nono on the 6th, 2-5 at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th and 10th |
| Streak-necked Flycatcher | Two to five at Bellavista on the 6th, 7th, 8th and 10th |
| Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant | One along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant | Six along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Rufous-crowned Tody-Tyrant | Two along the road near the start of the D trail (LT) on the 8th |
| Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher | One along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Cinnamon Flycatcher | Commonly observed along the Nono-Mindo Road and at Bellavista |
| Flavescent Flycatcher | One along the road (LT) on the 10th |
| Tropical Pewee | Three at PVM on the 9th |
| Smoke-colored Pewee | Three along the Nono-Mindo Road on the on the 6th, one or two at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th and 10th. |
| Olive-sided Flycatcher | Two at PVM on the 9th |
| Acadian Flycatcher | Three at PVM on the 9th |
| Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant | One at YA on the 6th |
| Crowned Chat-Tyrant | One at YA on the 6th |
| Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant | One along the road (LT) on the 8th |
| Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant | Singles at Quito on the 6th and on the road near the D trail (LT) on the 8th |
| Dusky-capped Flycatcher | Two at PVM on the 9th |
| Social Flycatcher | Three at PVM on the 9th |
| Gray-capped Flycatcher | One at PVM on the 9th |
| Streaked Flycatcher | One at PVM on the 9th |
| Tropical Kingbird | Three at PVM on the 9th |
| Snowy-throated Kingbird | One along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Cinnamon Becard | One along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th |
| Black-and-white Becard | One or two at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th and 10th |
| One-colored Becard | One female along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th |
| Green-and-black Fruiteater | A pair at BL on the 7th and a female along the road (LT) on the 8th |
| Rufous Piha | Two along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| White-bearded Manakin | Five along the road and two along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th |
| Turquoise Jay | Two along the road to Mindo (HT) on the 8th, frequently heard at Bellavista |
| Red-eyed Vireo | Five along the road at PVM |
| Brown-capped Vireo | One or two at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th and 10th |
| Lesser Greenlet | Three seen along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th |
| Brown-bellied Swallow | About 35 near Nono on the 6th |
| Blue-and-white Swallow | Five to ten daily at Bellavista |
| Southern Rough-winged Swallow | Two at PVM on the 9th |
| Andean Solitaire | Commonly heard in the early morning and late afternoon at Bellavista. Three seen along the D trail (LT) on the 8th. |
| Swainson's Thrush | Two along the forest trail at PVM |
| Great Thrush | Common around Quito, YA and along the road to Nono on the 6th. Two to three at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th, and 10th. |
| Plain-tailed Wren | Pairs were seen in bamboo at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th, and 10th |
| House Wren | One along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Mountain Wren | One along the D trail (LT) on the 7th |
| Gray-breasted Wood-Wren | Common at Bellavista, up to 10/day seen and many others heard |
| Southern Nightingale-Wren | One seen and several others heard along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th |
| Slate-throated Gnatcatcher | Eight along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Tropical Parula | One near Los Bancos on the 9th |
| Cerulean Warbler | One along the D trail (LT) on the 8th |
| Blackburnian Warbler | Common at Bellavista, 10/day on the 7th, 8th, and 10th |
| Slate-throated Redstart | Fairly common at Bellavista, 5/day on the 7th, 8th, and 10th |
| Spectacled Redstart | Ten at YA and two more near Nono on the 6th, four along the road (HT) on the 7th |
| Three-striped Warbler | Four along the D trail (LT) on the 8th and three at BL on the 10th |
| Black-crested Warbler | One near Nono on the 6th, singles on the LT on the 7th, 8th and 10th. |
| Russet-crowned Warbler | Fairly common at Bellavista, at least 5/day on the 7th, 8th, and 10th |
| Buff-rumped Warbler | One at PVM on the 9th |
| Yellow-collared Chlorophonia | One male seen briefly in a mixed flock near the falls (LT) on the 10th |
| Orange-bellied Euphonia | Two or three per day at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th, and 10th |
| Thick-billed Euphonia | A pair along the road between the D trail and the falls on the 8th |
| Cinereous Conebill | Two at YA and another near Nono on the 6th |
| Blue-backed Conebill | One at YA on the 6th |
| Capped Conebill | Two to three per day at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th, and 10th |
| Masked Flowerpiercer | 15+ at YA and near Nono on the 6th |
| Glossy Flowerpiercer | 50+ at YA and along the road to Nono on the 6th |
| White-sided Flowerpiercer | Two to three per day at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th, and 10th |
| Green Honeycreeper | A female along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Yellow-tufted Dacnis | One along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Scarlet-breasted Dacnis | One along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Golden Tanager | Common along the Nono-Mindo Road and at Bellavista, 10/day |
| Silver-throated Tanager | Four near Los Bancos on the 9th |
| Flame-faced Tanager | Three at BL on the 7th, 8th, and 10th |
| Metallic-green Tanager | Three on the 7th and two on the 10th on the LT |
| Blue-necked Tanager | 10+ along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Golden-hooded Tanager | Five along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Golden-naped Tanager | Common along the Nono-Mindo Road and at Bellavista, 10/day |
| Bay-headed Tanager | Two near Los Bancos on the 9th |
| Beryl-spangled Tanager | Up to 10/day at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th, and 10th |
| Blue-and-black Tanager | One adult at BL on the 10th |
| Black-capped Tanager | Females were seen near Tandayapa on the 6th and at BL on the 10th |
| Golden-crowned Tanager | One at YA on the 6th |
| Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager | About 10 at YA and along the road to Nono on the 6th, one along the Nanegalito Road (HT) on the 8th. |
| Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager | Common along the Nono-Mindo Road and at Bellavista, 20/day |
| Hooded Mountain-Tanager | One seen briefly at YA on the 6th |
| Swallow Tanager | Three near Los Bancos on the 9th |
| Blue-gray Tanager | Five along the road at PVM and two near Los Bancos on the 9th |
| Palm Tanager | One near Los Bancos on the 9th |
| Blue-capped Tanager | Singles near BL on the 7th and 10th |
| Flame-rumped Tanager | Seven along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| White-shouldered Tanager | About 20 at PVM on the 9th |
| Rufous-chested Tanager | Singes along the H trail (HT) on the 7th and along the road between the D trail and the falls (LT) and at BL on the 10th |
| Dusky Bush-Tanager | Common at Bellavista, 20/day on the 6th, 7th, 8th, and 10th |
| Black-eared Hemispingus | Singles in bamboo above BL on the 7th and 10th |
| Grass-green Tanager | One along the Nanegalito Road (HT) on the 7th |
| Plushcap | One in bamboo along the road between the D trail and the falls (LT) on the 8th |
| Buff-throated Saltator | 10+ along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Slate-colored Grosbeak | One along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th |
| Southern Yellow-Grosbeak | A pair frequented the trees around BL on the 8th and 10th. |
| Variable Seedeater | Two along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Yellow-bellied Seedeater | Three along the road at PVM on the 9th and one at LT on the 10th |
| Rufous-naped Brush-Finch | Three at YA on the 6th |
| White-winged Brush-Finch | Singles at Tandayapa on the 6th an between the D trail and falls on the 8th |
| Stripe-headed Brush-Finch | One at YA on the 6th |
| Tanager Finch | One feeding along road in the U of the Nanegalito Road (near the intersection with the Mindo Road, HT) at about 5:15 pm on the 8th. |
| Scrub Blackbird | One is a pasture along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Yellow-bellied Siskin | One along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Lesser Goldfinch | Two females along the road between the D trail and the falls (LT) on the 8th |
199 species seen.
Heard Only
| White-throated Crake | One along the road at PVM on the 9th |
| Andean Pygmy-Owl | One on the 7th and two on the 10th between the D trail and the falls (LT). |
| Common Potoo | One heard predawn below BL on the 8th |
| Great Jacamar | One along the forest trail at PVM |
| Great Antshrike | One along the road at PVM |
| Chestnut-backed Antbird | Several along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th |
| Undulated Antpitta | Three or four at YA on the 6th |
| Rufous Antpitta | Three at YA on the 6th |
| Tawny Antpitta | One heard near Nono on the 6th |
| Ocellated Tapaculo | Several (5-10) at YA on the 6th |
| Tawny-faced Gnatwren | at least 6, some glimpsed but not identifiable looks, at PVM on the 9th |
Mark Lockwood
Austin, Texas 78745
mwlockwood@juno.com