8 - 20 October 2000
by Lawrence Rubey
Manu is legendary among birders. From the highlands near Cusco, the Manu Road snakes down almost 4000 meters to the rich tropical forests of the Amazon basin. Nearly 1000 species of birds have been recorded in this transect. Having lived in Bolivia for four years, organizing a Manu trip had been on the back burner for some time. But it was a posting last year on the BIRDCHAT listserver that finally provided the impetus for this trip. In October 1999, Paul Champlin posted a summary of his field work at a number of lodges in southern Peru and northern Bolivia and called Pantiacolla the "best birding lodge" in the southwest Amazon. In just over a month, he reported seeing over 500 species, quickly putting it on par with the more famous Manu Wildlife Center.
Since in September 1999 I had organized a trip to Noel Kempff Mercado National Park in northern Bolivia through the Ornifolks network of travelling birders (www.ornifolks.com), Pantiacolla seemed like a natural choice for a group trip since it would be difficult (and expensive) for myself as an independent "solo birder." After every trip to Amazonian lowlands, I always seem to wish I had "just a couple more days" in the rainforest, thus I made the early decision to spend a good chunk of the trip in the lowlands at Pantiacolla lodge to really do justice to the tremendous diversity. As it was, we spent six full days at Pantiacolla (seven nights) and roughly an equal number of days birding at higher altitudes.
Overall, it is fair to say that Pantiacolla delivered. Although little visited by birders, Pantiacolla has a good, very well-maintained trail network, including trails climbing up to remnant cloud forest at 1000 meters. Outstanding varzea forest, including some extensive bamboo, is close to the lodge and proved to hold a number of range restricted species. Key specialties seen included: Blue-headed Macaw, White-cheeked Tody-Tyrant, Bamboo Antshrike and Manu Antbird. No one in our group had been to Manu Wildlife Center, so comparisons are difficult to make, but Pantiacolla certainly offers a lot to birders. Marianne (e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org) at the Pantiacolla office in Cusco proved to be of enormous help in planning for the trip. You can check out their website at www.pantiacolla.com.
Including our guide, Bennett Hennessey, we were eight in total (Carolyn, Marianne, Bob, Bobbie, Travis, Alfred and myself). The group could have easily grown to 12 or 14 due to strong interest in the trip on the Ornifolks birding network (www.ornifolks.org), but we chose to keep it small as rainforest birding is not conducive to large groups.
October 8: Cusco and the Huacarpay Lakes.
October 9: Cusco to Ajanaco pass (4000m) to Pillahuata (2500m).
October 10: Pillahuata to Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge (1500m).
October 11: Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge (1500m).
October 12: Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge to river port of Atalaya to Pantiacolla Lodge.
October 13-18: Pantiacolla Lodge.
October 19: Pantiacolla Lodge to Cusco.
October 20: Sacsayhuman ruins above Cusco.
Field Guides (both kinds):
We brought just about every conceivable field guide. Between the eight of us we had:
Birds of the High Andes by Jon Fjeldsa and Niels Krabbe: Indispensable for the humid montane forest on upper Manu Road above 2500 meters. We brought one copy of the text and three sets of plates.
The Birds of South America Volumes 1 and 2 by Robert Ridgley and Guy Tudor: Although heavy (we brought one copy of the text and two sets of the plates) and limited to the passerines, we spent more time referring to these two volumes during the evening hours than any others.
Birds of Columbia by Steve Hilty: A few of the most interesting and puzzling birds from Manu NP do not range into Colombia and thus are missing from this field guide. But it was otherwise a very useful addition. We must have had at least three copies between us. Ironic how the country with the best national field guide is virtually off-limits to birders these days...
The Tanagers by Morton and Phyllis Isler: Excellent coverage of the tanagers. Recently (1999) reprinted (but not revised). A nice addition to our trip library!
A Guide to the Birds of South America by Rodolphe Meyer de Schauensee: Now 30 years old, but this grand-daddy of the South America guides still has excellent text accounts. It was a nice luxury to have along.
South American Birds: A Photographic Guide to Identification: by John Dunning: Can't really remember us referring to this one that often...
In retrospect, the first three entries listed above would be the most important ones to consider for anyone planning a similar trip.
Our guide was Bennett Hennessey, a Canadian ornithologist who lives in Bolivia and does guiding at times to supplement his income as a full-time ornithologist. He proved to have extensive experience with the birds of the Amazonian lowlands. Coupled with his outstanding knowledge of bird sounds, he had a collection of "reference tapes" at his finger tips that permitted the use of immediate playback on some of the more difficult to see species. Indeed, on the entire trip I cannot remember a single bird that we saw at least reasonably well or was calling/singing that went unidentified.
Our first two nights in Cusco we stayed at the Hotel Bellavista just off the Avenida de Sol. Smallish rooms, but clean with a friendly and helpful front desk and cable TV. Upon our return to Cusco on October 19th, we stayed at the Hotel Prisma, a three-star hotel like the Bellavista, but closer to the main plaza and perhaps a little nicer (but no cable TV). Actually, we did not originally plan to change hotels, but there was a large group of rowdy students at the other hotel and the attentive hotel manager at the Bellavista thought we would be more comfortable at their sister hotel, the Hotel Prisma. Lo que sea. The negotiated price (in advance) at each was $35 per double including breakfast, less than half the posted rate. I relied on the advice and help of a friend in Cusco in identifying and booking the hotels.
Essentially a roadside clearing with a couple buildings, Pillahuata could be considered, in the words of a real estate agent, charmingly "rustic." Beds with mosquito nets were in two communal rooms, one for the men and one for the women (visions of summer camp?). But, if as in the real estate lexicon the three most important characteristics are location, location, and location, then Pillahuata cannot be beat. Perched at 2500 meters, there are no other options (other than camping) for birders who want to wake up and start birding in upper montane humid forest.
A newish lodge at 1500m on the Manu Road, just down from the famous Manu road Cock-of-the Rock lek. Very nice, especially after the minor hardships of Pillahuata. The rooms were a bit small, but service and food were excellent. And from the dining room one could relax and watch an amazing feeder filled with fresh fruit as well as hummingbird feeders that attracted some real gems.
As mentioned, Pantiacolla has only effectively been open to tourists for two years. In fact, we may have been the first true "birding group" to visit. In general, I think we all found it a very pleasant place to stay. Service by the Pantiacolla staff was excellent and our host Raoul was both gracious and extremely accommodating. Pantiacolla is in a clearing with a large thatch dining room forming the heart of the facility. Accommodation is double-occupancy in detached cabañas, linked by paths to the main dining area. Food was simple but very good and filling (second helpings were happily provided). The few disadvantages including the fact that there were only two bathrooms. Not a problem for eight birders, but when a group of 12 language students arrived on Monday, the guest-to-bathroom ratio increased considerably. To the credit of the Pantiacolla staff, a good job was done of keeping the bathrooms clean and, with the differing schedules of early-to-rise birders and students, no lines formed outside the bathrooms. Apparently Pantiacolla has already broken ground on a new bathroom complex. Another pet-peeve: no screens in the rooms. But mosquito nets were provided and mosquitos were almost non-existent near the lodge. Finally, cats are kept as pets by Pantiacolla staff, something certainly not compatible with a eco-tourist lodge.
Health and Safety:
A medical practitioner in South America tells me that the conventional wisdom in South America is that one in four visitors get some type of stomach upset during their trip that causes them to curtail their activities. Our experience provided strong support from such percentages: two members of our group of eight came down with upset stomachs, with one person finding the bug somewhat hard to shake and losing some birding time.
Our visit happened to coincide with an ongoing political scandal in Peru that caused the then President to call for new elections and created rumors of a military coup. However, despite the hyperbole on CNN, there was really no effect on the tourist areas near Cusco and in Manu. Peru has effectively contained or eliminated the guerrilla groups that kept most birders away for much of the 1980s. Like hundreds of Manu birders before us, we never felt threatened nor had safety concerns other than taking the normal precautions against pickpockets and purse snatching in downtown Cusco.
This being the end of the dry season, we were very lucky with the weather. We had a little rain near the cumbre on the Manu road on the 9th but no birding time was lost to rain during the entire trip. Pantiacolla was rather hot and humid, but there was cloud cover on several days that certainly kept the birds more active. It rained during the nighttime hours at Pantiacolla on a couple occasions, but each morning dawned clear and cloudless. We had quite a storm on our last night at Pantiacolla that considerably raised the water levels of the Alto Madre de Dios, making our return upriver somewhat exciting!
Day-by Day Account:
Some of the more interesting or noteworthy birds are described in this day-by-day account. A full list of species seen appears at the end of this report.
October 8: Cusco and the Huacarpay Lakes
Half of our group arrived in the morning of the 8th, so after dropping off luggage (and a short nap for some), we met at noon for an excursion to the Huacarpay Lakes outside of Cusco. Unfortunately, our rented van broke down a couple miles from the lakes, but we were able to quickly find a taxi that took us to the far shore where we hoped to find the endemic Bearded Mountaineer in the roadside tobacco plants. (Another vehicle was sent to replace the van and arrived within an hour). We soon got excellent looks at the BEARDED MOUNTAINEER and also added GIANT HUMMINGBIRD, GREEN-TAILED TRAINBEARER and SPARKLING VIOLETEAR to our list of hummingbirds. Other highlights include excellent looks at a MANY-COLORED RUSH-TYRANT foraging on the ground in the open, a WREN-LIKE RUSHBIRD, PLUMBEOUS RAIL, not to mention a variety of high Andean waterfowl. Dinner in Cusco at the El Paititi restaurant with live Andean music to boot.
October 9: Cusco to Ajanaco pass to Pillahuata
The road to Manu! We left the hotel at 5 AM and transferred to our vehicle for the next few days: a six wheel Russian-made Zil. Formerly a troop carrier, it was imported to Peru by an oil company, and later outfitted for tourists for travel on the sometimes rough and muddy Manu road. The very high clearance meant that the Zil offered excellent views from the bus-like seats (the only drawback being the effort climbing UP into the vehicle). Since it seated 24, the eight of us and our cook Orlando and driver Emilio were very comfortable.
Leaving Cusco and passing through heavily farmed Altiplano communities, the first birds were SPOT-WINGED PIGEON, TORRENT TYRANNULET, BROWN-BELLIED SWALLOW. As we approached Ajanco pass, ANDEAN FLICKER, VARIABLE HAWK, ANDEAN LAPWING and MOUNTAIN CARACARA were seen in the sparse, arid environment outside our windows. After breakfast in the Quechua town of Paucartambo, we made the last climb to the cumbre at 3800 meters and then descended down the eastern slope into humid montane forest. Our first stop, a short hike just below the pass offered up SHINING SUNBEAM, RUFOUS-BREASTED CHAT-TYRANT, BLACK-THROATED FLOWERPIERCER and MOUSTACHED FLOWERPIERCER. After passing a sign noting the Manu Biosphere Reserve entrance, we stopped and birded in the light rain and mist at 3350 meters and found a PUNA THISTLETAIL foraging low. We made several more stops between 3000 and 2700 meters and recorded HOODED TINAMOU (calling frequently), GRASS-GREEN TANAGER, PLUM-CROWNED PARROT, MASKED FLOWERPIERCER, RUST-AND-YELLOW TANAGER, CHESTNUT-BELLIED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER, CINNAMON FLYCATCHER and CITRINE WARBLER. We heard Mountain-Toucans calling in the ravine below us, but we were unable to lure them in with playback.
At dusk we arrived at Pillahauta and part of the group quickly located a singing UNDULATED ANTPITTA that was seen very well perched about a meter off the ground right below the cabin. Orlando, our cook, put together a great meal of soup and spaghetti under rather primitive conditions. Afterwards we walked up the road for nightbirds. We heard a SWALLOW-TAILED NIGHTJAR but we were not lucky enough to see it. We also heard ANDEAN PYGMY-OWL and RUFOUS-BANDED OWL.
October 10: Pillahuata to Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge
An early breakfast at Pillahauta of pancakes and then we began walking down the Manu road from 2500 meters towards the Cock-of-the-Rock lodge at 1500 meters. Our plan was to let Orlando and Emilio pack up the truck and then continue downhill to pick us up in a few hours. For many of us, this proved to be one of the favorite days of the trip: not only did was see a host of interesting birds, but on this day the birds seemed to never stop!
In the clearing near Pillahauta, in the early dawn light we found BLUE-CAPPED TANAGER, BAND-TAILED PIGEON, a very close CRIMSON-MANTLED WOODPECKER and GLOSSY-BACKED THRUSH. Walking downhill, we came across a BARRED BECARD, WHITE-COLLARED JAY, DUSKY-GREEN OROPENDOLA and SUPERCILLATED HEMISPINGUS. At 2400 meters, we encountered a nice slow-moving flock and were able to follow it for the next hour. The flock included CAPPED CONEBILL, WHITE-THROATED TYRANNULET, BLACK-CAPPED HEMISPINGUS, RUFOUS-CHESTED TANAGER, GOLDEN-BILLED SALTATOR (somewhat of a surprise to us in humid montane forest) and MASKED TROGON. We heard several RED-AND-WHITE ANTPITTAS calling as we walked downhill, but despite repeated efforts at playback, we were unable to see one. By 9 AM, we were at 2200 meters and had another flurry of activity with MOUNTAIN CACIQUE, BROWN-CAPPED VIREO, STREAKED TUFTEDCHEEK and BLUE-NECKED TANAGER.
By lunchtime, we arrived at the Cock-of-the-Rock lodge, our home for the next two nights. We were immediately bowled over by the fruit feeders that had attracted a bright male VERSICOLORED BARBET that was eating papaya just a few feet away. GOLDEN TANAGER and ORANGE-BELLIED EUPHONIA were also regular visitors to the feeders. At the hummingbird feeders, the most common bird was the VIOLET-FRONTED BRILLIANT. After lunch, we hiked uphill a few hundred meters to the Cock-of -the-Rock lek. But before arriving, Bennett spotted a SOLITARY EAGLE circling above a distant ridge. Unlocking the gate, we entered a roadside hide that offered views of several males and one female ANDEAN COCK-OF-THE-ROCK at a lek. As we strolled a little further uphill and then made our way back down, the birds kept coming, with FAWN-BREASTED TANAGER, OLIVACEOUS SISKIN, GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER, the somewhat rare and local LEMON-BROWN FLYCATCHER that Alfred got in his scope, BLUE-NAPED CHLOROPHONIA, and MARBLE-FACED BRISTLE TYRANT.
October 11: Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge
After a restful night, we awoke to a foggy and wet morning. Our plan was to take the Zil back up the Manu road a few hundred meters in altitude and bird our way down. As we twisted and climbed back up the road many probably hoped never to see again, Bob spotted a WHITE-CAPPED DIPPER out the window at 1625 meters near a waterfall. We all piled out and got some nice views. We continued climbing in the Zil up to 1800 meters (about 8 kilometers up the road from Cock-of-the-Rock lodge) where we got out and began walking back down.
Birding was a bit slow, but as we walked down, our patience was rewarded with WHITE-CROWNED TAPACULO (heard only), SPECKLED HUMMINGBIRD, BLUISH FLOWERPIERCER, SLATE-THROATED and SPECTACLED WHITESTARTS (in the same foraging flock at 1750 meters). Most of us also got good looks at WHITE-EARED SOLITAIRE, except for Travis who only got a glimpse of the head. (But by the end of the day, Travis had also seen, at various times, glimpses of the underparts, legs, back of the White-eared Solitaire, so someone pointed out that he had seen the whole bird, just not at one time!).
At 1700 meters, we came across a troupe of eight or more Woolly Monkeys that we followed for a while along the roadside. Since the birding was somewhat slow, we blamed the lower than apparently normal temperatures. After enjoying some GREEN JAYS passing through, someone noticed a GOLDEN-HEADED QUETZAL, perched on a roadside snag further back up the hill. After distant but unsatisfying views, we slowly backtracked towards the queztal. Every dozen meters we stopped for more views. Finally, we had approached within 10 meters of the queztal. This quetzal simply could not be spooked (and, diplomatically speaking, we were not a very quiet or stealthy group). We stood on the roadside, chatting and looking at the quetzal for 15 minutes or so From 10 meters, we could see the details of each feather that almost seemed to form metallic amour on the breast. Simply outstanding. In fact, a week later when we voted on the best bird of the trip, this quetzal won hands down. Finally, we walked away from it and headed back down hill.
The Zil was waiting for us at 1625 meters near the Manu Cloud Forest Lodge. But before getting on and heading to lunch, we saw a pair of TORRENT DUCKS foraging the river below, a pair of WHITE-EYED PARAKEETS, BLACK PHOEBE on the boulders and heard a MOUSTACHED WREN.
After lunch and a brief siesta, a mid-afternoon thunder shower passed though. When the rain stopped the balcony of the lodge was surrounded by the sounds of a foraging flock. Most interesting was a YELLOW-BREASTED ANTWREN. Having decided to walk downhill for the lodge for the afternoon, we had barely left the entrance when Bennett found us a BUFF-THROATED TODY-TYRANT. Further down we found a GOLDEN-CROWNED FLYCATCHER, but not much else new for the trip. On the walk back to the lodge, as it was getting dark, Marianne spotted a HIGHLAND MOTMOT perched on a boulder in a nearby stream (certainly not their normal habitat one presumes...).
October 12: Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge-Atalaya-Pantiacolla Lodge
Pancakes with honey and hot coffee at 5:30 AM get us moving. By mid-afternoon, we would be at Pantiacolla. But first we wanted to take advantage of the early morning hours to visit the forest between 1200 and 1000 meters. Our first stop was at 1150 meters. We quickly found a TWO-BANDED WARBLER, BUFF-THROATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER, PLUMBEOUS KITE, and YELLOW-THROATED BUSH-TANAGER. Then we spotted a DOUBLE-TOOTHED KITE perched near the roadside. Then what was presumably a male Double-Toothed Kite flew in, perched next to the female, and offered her a tasty mammalian morsel. Great views of the female ripping the flesh enjoying her meal. Getting back in the Zil, we continued down the road a few more minutes. Stopping at 1000 meters, the heat was apparent, despite the relatively early hour. The sky was cloudless and the temperatures would only rise. Our second stop yielded MAGPIE TANAGER, BLUE-HEADED PARROT, more PLUMBEOUS KITES, RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE, LONG-TAILED TYRANT, SWALLOW TANAGER and, in a chance encounter, excellent views of a LANCEOLATED MONKLET, perched about a meter off the ground in the roadside scrub.
Below 1000 meters, we found the area increasingly impacted by settlements
We drove straight through, with only a stop for refrescos at Pilcopata. Upon reaching the port town of Atalaya at mid-day, we had more refrescos while the motorized canoe was loaded up. We said goodbye to our driver Emilio and after a quick tour of the gorges upstream from Atalaya, we headed down the Madre de Dios river towards Pantiacolla. Despite the mid-day heat, we saw a variety of river birds including RED-THROATED CARACARA, OSPREY, FASCIATED TIGER-HERON, LARGE AND YELLOW-BILLED TERNS, SWALLOW-WING, and ZONE-TAILED HAWK on our two or three hour journey.
By mid-afternoon, we arrived at Pantiacolla Lodge. We had barely sorted out our rooms, when a pair of BLUE-HEADED MACAW (a Manu specialty) were spotted perched near the lodge clearing. We got excellent looks, not knowing that we would not see them as well for the rest of the week. We re-grouped and quickly set off for the nearby Capybara trail, the first couple kilometers of which offer an excellent example of varzea forest heavily influenced by bamboo. We had only gone a few hundred meters from the trailhead, when Bennett heard an interesting call and brought in a WHITE-CHEEKED TODY-TYRANT, an endemic and another specialty of Manu! With green mantle, yellow-edging on the flanks, orange bill, and white cheeks, it was a very handsome flycatcher indeed. Two Manu specialties within hours of arrival!
After dinner, we conducted a quick, successful search for TAWNY-BELLIED SCREECH-OWL, which we lured in to the spotlight. Late at night, a storm passes through.
October 13: Pantiacolla Lodge
The morning dawned cool and clear. In some strange display of national unity, all of Peru is in the same time zone. But since Manu is much further east than the coastal population centers, birders must get up before 5 AM to have breakfast and be on the trails by 5:30 AM (first real light). This morning we walked the Monk Saki trail returning via the Oropendola trail, both mostly terre firme forest with a fair number of tree falls. Our first bird was a SPOT-BACKED ANTBIRD, with a "squeezy, squeezy" call like one of those plastic dog toys. Other birds included: BLACK-FACED ANTBIRD, WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN, PLAIN-WINGED ANTSHRIKE, BLUE-CROWNED MANAKIN, WHITE-SHOULDERED ANTSHRIKE, WHITE-FLANKED ANTWREN, and BAND-TAILED MANAKIN.
We decided to head back on the Oropendola trail and soon we encountered a flock of oropendolas that included several CASQUED OROPENDOLA. We enjoyed their weird, drawn out calls and then continued on down the trail. Before we had gone 100 meters, we ran into a small canopy flock that included PURPLE HONEYCREEPER, GREEN HONEYCREEPER, PARADISE TANAGER, GREEN-AND-GOLD TANAGER and YELLOW-BELLIED TANAGER. Finally, as it was close to 12:30 PM and lunchtime, we picked up the pace and headed towards the lodge. But a high frequency call from the trail side distracts us, and Bennett uses playback to give us nice views of a WHITE-EYED ANTWREN.
After lunch and a siesta (with those unwilling to sleep sitting on their balcony observing hummingbirds such as LONG-BILLED STARTHROAT and FORK-TAILED WOOD-NYMPH at the ornamental plantings), we took another walk in the afternoon, again on the Monk Saki trail. There was not as much activity as in the morning, but we saw RED-BILLED SCYTHEBILL (very close to the lodge), WHITE-NECKED THRUSH, DWARF TYRANT-MANAKIN, GRAY ANTBIRD (with its "cook-ies, cook-ies" call) and a mystery funarid (a leafscraper?) that flushed and perched on the trunk of a large fig tree.
After updating the day's list and dinner, most of us decide to sleep. We drift off to the sounds of COMMON POTOO and GREAT POTOO.
October 14: Pantiacolla Lodge
Only our second day at Pantiacolla and we have already settled into a routine. We start with breakfast at 5 AM and then set off for a long morning walk at 5:30 AM. We return to the lodge at little before lunch (1 PM) and then after a siesta, we take another walk in the afternoon.
This morning we chose the Capybara trail. We started off in a part of the trail that is best characterized as bamboo dominated vareza. The morning began nicely with several handsome skulkers: WHITE-BROWED ANTBIRD, WARBLING ANTBIRD, WHITE-LINED ANTBIRD, and MANU ANTBIRD. A couple times, we get brief but frustrating looks at a WHITE-BEARDED HERMIT. With hermits, one often has such little time to note the key hermit field marks such as size of tail, color of supercilium, malar stripe, and flight pattern. We also hear PERUVIAN RECURVEBILL, but only Carolyn gets a glimpse of the bird. After looks at GRAY ANTWREN, RED-THROATED CARACARA, BUFF-THROATED WOODCREEPER, and WHITE-SHOULDERED TANAGER, the Capybara trail takes us into drier, almost terre firme forest with little bamboo. Here we see ROUND-TAILED MANAKIN, BARE-NECKED FRUITCROW, RUDDY PIGEON ("whip your UN-cle") and BLACK-TAILED TROGON. For many of us, the bird of the morning is a cooperative RUSTY-BELTED TAPACULO that slowly circles us, calling all the while. Accustomed to Scytalopus Tapaculos, we marvel at how different the Rusty-belted Tapaculo (of the mono-typic genus Liosceles) appears. On the way back to the lodge, we also catch looks at WHITE-LORED EUPHONIA, DUSKY-CAPPED GREENLET, and a MUSICIAN WREN, that Alfred alerts us to.
Having thoroughly enjoyed our morning, in the afternoon we chose to focus on the Tinamou Tail, a spur of the Capybara trail that parallels the river. Despite the heat, we see WHITE-BROWED ANTBIRD again, SWALLOW-TAILED KITES, BLUE-AND-YELLOW MACAW, GRAY-FRONTED DOVE, and BLACK-THROATED ANTBIRD.
After the bird list and dinner, most of us opt to head to bed by 9 PM; tomorrow will be an early day. A midnight rain shower and breezes ensure comfortable sleeping temperatures.
October 15: Pantiacolla Lodge
It is hard to have much of an appetite for breakfast at 4 :30 AM. But today will be a early one as by 5:10 AM we are piling into the boat and heading a few minutes upstream to the colpa, a clay lick that attracts parrots and macaws. Fog rises off the river and low clouds block views of the foothills as we motor upstream. On the river, we see BLACK CARACARA, CAPPED HERON, and WHITE-NECKED HERON, all birds we missed on our trip in. Arriving at the colpa, we are disappointed to see that few birds are visiting it. Our boatman (motorista), a local resident, says that he has noticed that parrot numbers tend to decline after rainy nights and perhaps the clay is too wet for the parrots. But by loitering around, we do see a number of psittacids "commuting" along the river, including: BLUE-AND-YELLOW MACAW, CHESTNUT-FRONTED MACAW, RED-AND-GREEN MACAW, WHITE-EYED PARAKEET, DUSKY-HEADED PARAKEET, BLUE-HEADED PARROT, and MEALY PARROT. In the riverside bushes we also see a beautiful RED-CAPPED CARDINAL.
We decide to head downstream a few minutes to visit a small dry stream bed that, in the rainy season, flows in the Alto Madre de Dios. Here Bob spots a DARK-BILLED CUCKOO that we all eventually see well. Then we are distracted by a BLACK-EARED FAIRY with the white flashes in its relatively long tail. Walking along the dry stream bed, we surprise a perched GREATER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE and later see RUDDY GROUND-DOVE and PLAIN-CROWNED SPINETAIL. Returning to the boat, we head downstream a few more minutes to a small marsh isolated from the main river. As we walk through the wet sand and 6 to 8 inches of water, we share the obligatory stories of South American quicksand. Arriving at the marsh, we record: SPOTTED SANDPIPER, HOATZIN, STREAKED FLYCATCHER, and a pair of SUNGREBE lazily swimming near the shore. We also get brief looks at a LEMON-THROATED BARBET and see plenty more macaws. On the return journey we see a CRIMSON-CRESTED WOODPECKER and DRAB WATER-TYRANT. Arriving back at the lodge, most of us decide to take a quick walk on the east end of the Monk Saki trail before lunch. We are rewarded with a WHITE-CRESTED SPADEBILL and RED-CROWNED ANT-TANAGER.
After lunch, we settle on another walk that combines the Monk Saki trail with the Aracari trail. Activity is low, but we lure in a BROAD-BILLED MOTMOT ("waaa-waaa"). Most of the group opt to watch the sunset on the riverbank and see a flock of SAND-COLORED NIGHTHAWK and a PECTORAL SPARROW, but some of us chose to race to the showers to wash off the day's accumulated sweat and grime.
October 16: Pantiacolla Lodge
Another early morning as today the plan is to hike the long Mirador trail that climbs up into the Pantiacolla foothills past 1000 meters. At 850 meters, the trail is said to pass through an isolated patch of cloud forest at 850 meters, a good spot for the rare Black Tinamou. We start the hike before dawn (5 AM) and hike hard for 45 minutes to get some mileage under our belt. In the dim light, we get a glimpse of a group of GREAT TINAMOUS, hear several LITTLE TINAMOUS and see a SPIX'S WOODCREEPER. As dawn breaks, we stop and spend some time with a well-concealed BUFF-BREASTED WREN that finally emerges into the open. As we continue climbing, Bennett stops and alerts us to a strange but clear call: "hoo-ha-ha" that he hazards may be a forest falcon. With playback we are rewarded with views of a beautiful LINED FOREST-FALCON, one of the rarer forest-falcons and a new bird for the lodge list. More climbing and views of GRAYISH MOURNER and CARMIOL'S TANAGER.
By 9:30, we reach 650 meters and notice a severe fall off in bird activity. Indeed, we had been warned that the Mirador trail seemed to have less activity than other trails closer to the lodge. Democracy prevails and we turn around to slowly work our way downhill, leaving that mysterious patch of isolated cloud forest to be explored some future visit. We encounter a small flock on our return journey that include a couple new tanagers for the trip: OPAL-RUMPED TANAGER and OPAL-CROWNED TANAGER. We also observe some evidence of logging and hunting (shotgun shells) and later learn that the Mirador trail is sometimes used by hunters from a nearby village that do not seem to have bought into the concept of the Manu Biosphere Reserve. Indeed, lower numbers of some of larger birds near Pantiacolla may possibly be evidence of hunting in the area.
The shady veranda of the dining hall and lunch greet us and we return from what was a seven and a half mile morning hike. After lunch and a siesta, we opt for the productive Capybara trail and Tinamou spur trail. More interesting birds seem to be waiting for us: we see: GOELDI'S ANTBIRD, BAMBOO ANTSHRIKE, SOLITARY CACIQUE, and GOULD'S JEWELFRONT. Dinner is a busy affair. About a dozen language students have arrived, whereas we had the place to ourselves before. After dinner, we prowls for more owls but find more mammals than birds. We get great looks at Giant Armadillo and Brazilian Porcupine.
October 17: Pantiacolla Lodge
After breakfast, we are off by 5:30 AM to the Capybara tail again. This trail proved to be one of our favorites, with many of the most interesting and "wanted" birds observed on this trail. Few Amazonian lodges have such high quality varzea forest interspersed with mature bamboo. The taller tierra firme forest was less productive as we did not encounter the understory flocks that we expected. And, for the most part, we did not see large flocks of tanagers. Most tanager flocks are quite small and we hypotheise that they were family groups. Perhaps it was a seasonal phenomenon?
New trip sightings continue to pop up, including: CHESTNUT CAPPED PUFFBIRD, GRAY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER, BRAN-COLORED FLYCATCHER, and COLBALT-WINGED PARAKEET. Moving into the dry terre firme forest on the Capybara trail, we find RUFOUS-BELLIED EUPHONIA, BLACK-SPOTTED BARE-EYE at an army ant swarm, BLACK-FACED DACNIS and RUFOUS MOTMOT. We marvel at how distant the motmot sounds (it seems to be at least 200 meters off), but how close it actually is (20 meters only!).
The afternoon is quite hot, making it difficult to nap. Given the heat, we decide to take another trip along the river. About 10 minutes upstream we find a small inlet and water north along a sandy stream bank that flows into the river. We are happy to see birds in the stifling heat, including: GRAYISH SALTATOR, DOUBLE-COLLARED SEEDEATER, AMAZONIAN OROPENDOLA, BUFF-RUMPED WARBLER, and BLUE-HEADED PARROT. Some ways upstream, we flush a group of 15 BLUE-AND-YELLOW MACAWS. They circle us and settle for a time in a nearby tree. In the late afternoon light, their colors are almost magical. We hear a LAWRENCE'S THRUSH, the accomplished rainforest mimic, in the riverside vegetation and listen as it cycles through a series of common Amazonian birds. This individual seemed to prefer the song of the Goedi's Antbird, seeming to use it as a base for every burst of song. Losing light, we head back to the boat, but stop for a welcome sighting of a VIOLACEOUS JAY, first spotted by our sharp-eyed boatman Leo.
After a nice dinner of spicy noodle soup and a vegetarian potato side dish, some of us look for owls again, but the mammalian diversity of last night is not repeated.
October 18: Pantiacolla Lodge
During the night, we received quite a bit of rain, but we awoke to clear blue skies and lower temperatures. At breakfast, we remarked how lucky we had been with the weather: no birding time lost to rain, but enough rain at night to keep the temperatures down and the forest from being too dry and lifeless. Again we chose the Capybara trail. As mentioned earlier, each day on this trail seemed to bring new delights. In fact, I personally saw more "lifers" at Pantiacolla on our last day there (today, the 18th) than on any one of the previous six days-- a tribute to the tremendous diversity in the varzea forest.
We started the day with nice views of a WHITE-EYED TODY-TYRANT. Manu has the sub-species H. zosterops griseipectus that is a good candidate for a splitting, in which case Ridgely and Tudor have suggested the name White-bellied Tody-Tyrant. The tody-tyrant was soon followed by a cooperative STRIATED ANTBIRD. We then encounter a rather large forging flock that included: YELLOW-CRESTED TANAGER, SLATE-COLORED GROSBEAK, and GREEN-AND-GOLD TANAGER. As the flock was almost directly overhead, many of us used the trick of laying flat on our backs and looking straight up into the canopy. Much less neck pain! We continued down the path and played hide-and-seek with a BLACK-FACED ANTTHRUSH. After all of us had gotten only somewhat satisfactory looks at the bird and (grudgingly) were ready to leave, the bird suddenly became unwary and proceeded to cross the path in front of us and forage in the trail side vegetation.
Further along the Capybara trial, we found another nice flock that included CHESTNUT-CROWNED FOLIAGE-GLEANER and WHITE-WINGED SHRIKE TANAGER. We then had success in calling in COLLARED TROGON that perched very close and gave us amazing views. Then it was a close encounter with a WEDGE-BILLED WOODCREEPER (with views of the upturned bill) that grabbed our attention. On the hike back, we were lucky to come across a JOHANNE'S TODY-TYRANT with an olive back with yellow wing edging, grayish head, yellow belly, and white eye. Just before the lodge, we ran into a final flock of tanagers, but the majority of the group stopped for only quick looks before heading into lunch.
For an afternoon walk, we strolled the Monk Saki trail and then took a connecting path to link up again with the Capybara trail. We see an understory flock, but no species that grab our attention. Further along, Bennett catches a short call and lures out a RINGED ANTPIPIT. After an unsuccessful hunt for the Peruvian Recurvebill in the fading light, we head to the lodge for showers and a final meal and toast Pantiacolla with Chilean vino tinto. Just as dinner ends, the rain starts up and continues, heavy at times, most of the night.
October 19: Pantiacolla Lodge to Cusco
This was basically a travel day as we went by boat up the Madre de Dios River and over the Andes to Cusco. The river was very high and rather fast due to the rains of the night before. On the river we did see a few birds new for the trip, including: GREATER YELLOWLEGS, TROUPIAL (new for the lodge list!), BLACK-CROWNED TITYRA, STRIATED HERON, PIED LAPWING on the sandy riverbank, CHESTNUT-EARED ARACARI, and SUNBITTERN. We also 4 or 5 FASCIATED TIGER-HERONS, this usually shy species was actively feeding on the fast-flowing, turbulent river edge.
Upon arrival at Cusco, we happily settled into the Hotel Prisma. Some of us went out for a leisurely dinner, while others were content to call home (having been away from a telephone for 10 days or so) and get to sleep early.
October 20: Sacsayhuman ruins above Cusco
Today was our last day and we spent it in the Polylepis scrub and farmlands above the Sacsayhuman ruins above Cusco. Bob and Bobbie had a mid-day flight and our plan was to find the endemic Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch. Our van met us at the hotel at 7 AM and climbing outside of Cusco, we found a patch of Polylepis in a roadside ravine at about 3550 meters. Among others, we recorded TUFTED TIT-TYRANT, MOURNING SIERRA-FINCH, PLUMBEOUS SIERRA-FINCH, PERUVIAN SIERRA-FINCH, BLACK-THROATED FLOWERPIERCER, and a CINEREOUS CONEBILL that initially gave us a little bit of trouble. We had glimpses of what we believe was a TAWNY TIT-SPINETAIL foraging in the Polylepis. Finally, after moving downhill, in some farm fields near Sacsayhuman ruins we found the endemic CHESTNUT-BREASTED MOUNTAIN-FINCH. We gave a chase and finally were rewarded with prolonged views of this handsome finch.
Soon it was time for Bob and Bobbie to head for the airport. Four of the group were going to stay on for a side trip to Machu Picchu. But that is another story...
SPECIES TRIP LIST:
Complete species list follows:
P = at or near Pantiacolla
T = Transect of Manu road
C = Cuzco
H = heard only
|COMMON NAME||SCIENTIFIC NAME||LOCALE|
|Great Tinamou||Tinamus major||P|
|Hooded Tinamou||Nothocercus nigrocapillus||Th|
|Cinereous Tinamou||Crypturellus cinereus||Ph|
|Little Tinamou||Crypturellus soui||Ph|
|Undulated Tinamou||Crypturellus undulatus||Ph|
|Red-legged Tinamou||Crypturellus atrocapillus||Ph|
|White-tufted Grebe||Rollandia rolland||C|
|Neotropic Cormorant||Phalacrocorax brasilianus||P|
|White-necked Heron||Ardea cocoi||P|
|Great Egret||Casmerodius albus||P|
|Snowy Egret||Egretta thula||P|
|Striated Heron||Butorides striatus||P|
|Capped Heron||Pilherodius pileatus||P|
|Black-crowned Night-Heron||Nycticorax nycticorax||C|
|Fasciated Tiger-Heron||Tigrisoma fasciatum||P|
|Puna Ibis||Plegadis ridgwayi||C|
|Speckled Teal||Anas flavirostris||C|
|White-cheeked Pintail||Anas bahamensis||C|
|Yellow-billed Pintail||Anas georgica||C|
|Puna Teal||Anas puna||C|
|Cinnamon Teal||Anas cyanoptera||C|
|Torrent Duck||Merganetta armata||T|
|Andean Duck||Oxyura ferruginea||C|
|King Vulture||Sarcoramphus papa||P|
|Black Vulture||Coragyps atratus||P|
|Turkey Vulture||Cathartes aura||P|
|Greater Yellow-headed Vulture||Cathartes melambrotus||P|
|Swallow-tailed Kite||Elanoides forficatus||P|
|Double-toothed Kite||Harpagus bidentatus||P|
|Plumbeous Kite||Ictinia plumbea||P|
|Variable Hawk||Buteo polyosoma||T|
|Zone-tailed Hawk||Buteo albonotatus||T|
|Roadside Hawk||Buteo magnirostris||P|
|Great Black-Hawk||Buteogallus urubitinga||P|
|Solitary Eagle||Harpyhaliaetus solitarius||T|
|Cinereous Harrier||Circus cinereus||C|
|Lined Forest-Falcon||Micrastur gilvicollis||P|
|Black Caracara||Daptrius ater||P|
|Red-throated Caracara||Daptrius americanus||P|
|Mountain Caracara||Phalcoboenus megalopterus||C|
|American Kestrel||Falco sparverius||T|
|Speckled Chachalaca||Ortalis guttata||P|
|Spix's Guan||Penelope jacquacu||P|
|Andean Guan||Penelope montagnii||T|
|Starred Wood-Quail||Odontophorus stellatus||Ph|
|Plumbeous Rail||Pardirallus sanguinolentus||C|
|Gray-necked Wood-Rail||Aramides cajanea||Ph|
|Common Moorhen||Gallinula chloropus||C|
|Slate-colored Coot||Fulica ardesiaca||C|
|Andean Lapwing||Vanellus resplendens||C|
|Pied Lapwing||Vanellus cayanus||P|
|Puna Plover||Charadrius alticola||C|
|Lesser Yellowlegs||Tringa flavipes||C|
|Greater Yellowlegs||Tringa melanoleuca||P|
|Spotted Sandpiper||Tringa macularia||P|
|Andean Gull||Larus serranus||C|
|Large-billed Tern||Phaetusa simplex||P|
|Yellow-billed Tern||Sterna superciliaris||P|
|Band-tailed Pigeon||Columba fasciata||T|
|Spot-winged Pigeon||Columba maculosa||T|
|Ruddy Pigeon||Columba subvinacea||Ph|
|Plumbeous Pigeon||Columba plumbea||P|
|Eared Dove||Zenaida auriculata||C|
|Ruddy Ground-Dove||Columbina talpacoti||P|
|Bare-faced Ground-Dove||Metriopelia ceciliae||C|
|Rock Pigeon||Columba livia||C|
|Gray-fronted Dove||Leptotila rufaxilla||P|
|White-throated Quail-Dove||Geotrygon frenata||Ph|
|Blue-and-yellow Macaw||Ara ararauna||P|
|Red-and-green Macaw||Ara chloropterus||P|
|Chestnut-fronted Macaw||Ara severa||P|
|Red-bellied Macaw||Ara manilata||P|
|Blue-headed Macaw||Ara couloni||P|
|White-eyed Parakeet||Aratinga leucophthalmus||P|
|Dusky-headed Parakeet||Aratinga weddellii||P|
|Cobalt-winged Parakeet||Brotogeris cyanoptera||P|
|Tui Parakeet||Brotogeris sanctithomae||P|
|Blue-headed Parrot||Pionus menstruus||P|
|Plum-crowned Parrot||Pionus tumultuosus||T|
|Mealy Parrot||Amazona farinosa||P|
|Dark-billed Cuckoo||Coccyzus melacoryphus||P|
|Squirrel Cuckoo||Piaya cayana||P|
|Smooth-billed Ani||Crotophaga ani||P|
|Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl||Otus watsonii||P|
|Andean Pygmy-Owl||Glaucidium jardinii||Th|
|Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl||Glaucidium brasilianum||Ph|
|Rufous-banded Owl||Strix albitarsus||Th|
|Great Potoo||Nyctibius grandis||Ph|
|Common Potoo||Nyctibius griseus||Ph|
|Sand-colored Nighthawk||Chordeiles rupestris||P|
|Swallow-tailed Nightjar||Uropsalis segmentata||Th|
|White-collared Swift||Streptoprocne zonaris||P|
|Chestnut-collared Swift||Cypseloides rutilus||P|
|Short-tailed Swift||Chaetura brachyura||P|
|White-bearded Hermit||Phaethornis hispidus||P|
|Reddish Hermit||Phaethornis ruber||P|
|White-browed Hermit||Phaethornis stuarti||P|
|White-necked Jacobin||Florisuga mellivora||P|
|Sparkling Violetear||Colibri coruscans||P|
|Fork-tailed Woodnymph||Thalurania furcata||P|
|Speckled Hummingbird||Adelomyia melanogenys||T|
|Gould's Jewelfront||Heliodoxa aurescens||P|
|Violet-fronted Brilliant||Heliodoxa leadbeateri||T|
|Giant Hummingbird||Patagona gigas||C|
|Shining Sunbeam||Aglaeactis cupripennis||T|
|Violet-throated Starfrontlet||Coeligena violifer||T|
|Amethyst-throated Sunangel||Heliangelus amethysticollis||T|
|Green-tailed Trainbearer||Lesbia nuna||C|
|Rufous-capped Thornbill||Chalcostigma ruficeps||T|
|Bearded Mountaineer||Oreonympha nobilis||C|
|Long-tailed Sylph||Aglaiocercus kingi||T|
|Black-eared Fairy||Heliothryx aurita||P|
|Long-billed Starthroat||Heliomaster longirostris||P|
|Crested Quetzal||Pharomachrus antisianus||Th|
|Golden-headed Quetzal||Pharomachrus auriceps||T|
|Black-tailed Trogon||Trogon melanurus||P|
|Collared Trogon||Trogon collaris||P|
|Masked Trogon||Trogon personatus||T|
|Blue-crowned Trogon||Trogon curucui||P|
|Violaceous Trogon||Trogon violaceus||P|
|Ringed Kingfisher||Megaceryle torquata||P|
|Amazon Kingfisher||Chloroceryle amazona||P|
|Green Kingfisher||Chloroceryle americana||P|
|Broad-billed Motmot||Electron platyrhynchum||P|
|Rufous Motmot||Baryphthengus martii||P|
|Blue-crowned Motmot||Momotus momota||P|
|Highland Motmot||Momotus aequatorialis||T|
|Rufous-tailed Jacamar||Galbula ruficauda||T|
|Chestnut-capped Puffbird||Bucco macrodactylus||P|
|Lanceolated Monklet||Micromonacha lanceolata||T|
|Black-fronted Nunbird||Monasa nigrifrons||P|
|White-fronted Nunbird||Monasa morphoeus||Ph|
|Black-spotted Barbet||Capito niger||Ph|
|Lemon-throated Barbet||Eubucco richardsoni||P|
|Versicolored Barbet||Eubucco versicolor||T|
|Emerald Toucanet||Aulacorhynchus prasinus||Ph|
|Blue-banded Toucanet||Aulacorhynchus coeruleicinctis||T|
|Chestnut-eared Aracari||Pteroglossus castanotis||P|
|Golden-collared Toucanet||Selenidera reinwardtii||Ph|
|Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan||Andigena hypoglauca||Th|
|Cuvier's Toucan||Ramphastos cuvieri||P|
|Andean Flicker||Colaptes rupicola||T|
|Crimson-mantled Woodpecker||Piculus rivolii||T|
|Golden-olive Woodpecker||Piculus rubiginosus||T|
|Rufous-headed Woodpecker||Celeus spectabilis||P|
|Lineated Woodpecker||Dryocopus lineatus||P|
|Yellow-tufted Woodpecker||Melanerpes cruentatus||P|
|Crimson-crested Woodpecker||Campephilus melanoleucos||P|
|White-chinned Woodcreeper||Dendrocincla merula||P|
|Olivaceous Woodcreeper||Sittasomus griseicapillus||P|
|Wedge-billed Woodcreeper||Glyphorynchus spirurus||P|
|Spix's Woodcreeper||Xiphorhynchus spixii||P|
|Buff-throated Woodcreeper||Xiphorhynchus guttatus||P|
|Olive-backed Woodcreeper||Xiphorhynchus triangularis||T|
|Spot-crowned Woodcreeper||Lepidocolaptes affinis||T|
|Pale-legged Hornero||Furnarius leucopus||P|
|Wren-like Rushbird||Phleocryptes melanops||C|
|Azara's Spinetail||Synallaxis azarae||T|
|Plain-crowned Spinetail||Synallaxis gujanensis||P|
|Puna Thistletail||Schizoeaca helleri||T|
|Pearled Treerunner||Margarornis squamiger||T|
|Streaked Tuftedcheek||Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii||T|
|Peruvian Recurvebill||Simoxenops ucayalae||P|
|Montane Foliage-gleaner||Anabacerthia striaticollis||P|
|Rufous-rumped Foliage-gleaner||Philydor erythrocercus||P|
|Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner||Automolus ochrolaemus||P|
|Bamboo Antshrike||Cymbilaimus sanctaemariae||P|
|Great Antshrike||Taraba major||P|
|Chestnut-backed Antshrike||Thamnophilus palliatus||T|
|White-shouldered Antshrike||Thamnophilus aethiops||P|
|Plain-winged Antshrike||Thamnophilus schistaceus||P|
|Amazonian Antshrike||Thamnophilus amazonicus||P|
|Pygmy Antwren||Myrmotherula brachyura||P|
|White-eyed Antwren||Myrmotherula leucophthalma||P|
|White-flanked Antwren||Myrmotherula axillaris||P|
|Gray Antwren||Myrmotherula menetriesii||P|
|Yellow-breasted Antwren||Herpsilochmus axillaris||T|
|Striated Antbird||Drymophila devillei||P|
|Gray Antbird||Cercomacra cinerascens||Ph|
|Manu Antbird||Cercomacra manu||P|
|White-browed Antbird||Myrmoborus leucophrys||P|
|Black-faced Antbird||Myrmoborus myotherinus||P|
|Warbling Antbird||Hypocnemis cantator||P|
|White-lined Antbird||Percnostola lophotes||P|
|Chestnut-tailed Antbird||Myrmeciza hemimelaena||P|
|Goeldi's Antbird||Myrmeciza goeldii||P|
|Black-throated Antbird||Myrmeciza atrothorax||P|
|White-throated Antbird||Gymnopithys salvini||P|
|Spot-backed Antbird||Hylophylax naevia||P|
|Black-spotted Bare-eye||Phlegopsis nigromaculata||P|
|Black-faced Antthrush||Formicarius analis||P|
|Undulated Antpitta||Grallaria squamigera||T|
|Red-and-white Antpitta||Grallaria erythroleuca||Th|
|Amazonian Antpitta||Hylopezus berlepschi||P|
|Rusty-belted Tapaculo||Liosceles thoracicus||P|
|White-crowned Tapaculo||Scytalopus bolivianus||Th|
|Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant||Muscisaxicola rufivertex||C|
|White-browed Chat-Tyrant||Ochthoeca leucophrys||C|
|Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant||Ochthoeca rufipectoralis||T|
|Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant||Ochthoeca cinnamomeiventris||Th|
|Black Phoebe||Sayornis nigricans||T|
|Long-tailed Tyrant||Colonia colonus||P|
|Drab Water-Tyrant||Ochthornis littoralis||P|
|Eastern Kingbird||Tyrannus tyrannus||P|
|Tropical Kingbird||Tyrannus melancholicus||P|
|Gray-capped Flycatcher||Myiozetetes granadensis||P|
|Social Flycatcher||Myiozetetes similis||P|
|Lemon-browed Flycatcher||Conopias cinchoneti||T|
|Boat-billed Flycatcher||Megarynchus pitangua||Ph|
|Streaked Flycatcher||Myiodynastes maculatus||P|
|Golden-crowned Flycatcher||Myiodynastes chrysocephalus||T|
|Grayish Mourner||Rhytipterna simplex||P|
|Dusky-capped Flycatcher||Myiarchus tuberculifer||Ph|
|Smoke-colored Pewee||Contopus fumigatus||T|
|Cinnamon Flycatcher||Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea||P|
|Bran-colored Flycatcher||Myiophobus fasciatus||P|
|White-crested Spadebill||Platyrinchus platyrhynchos||P|
|Yellow-breasted Flycatcher||Tolmomyias flaviventris||P|
|Buff-throated Tody-Tyrant||Hemitriccus rufigularis||T|
|Johannes's Tody-Tyrant||Hemitriccus iohannis||P|
|White-eyed Tody-Tyrant||Hemitriccus zosterops||P|
|White-cheeked Tody-Tyrant||Poecilotriccus albifacies||P|
|Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant||Myiornis ecaudatus||Ph|
|Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant||Phylloscartes ophthalmicus||T|
|Spectacled Bristle-Tyrant||Phylloscartes orbitalis||P|
|Many-colored Rush-Tyrant||Tachuris rubrigastra||C|
|Tufted Tit-Tyrant||Anairetes parulus||C|
|River Tyrannulet||Serpophaga hypoleuca||P|
|Torrent Tyrannulet||Serpophaga cinerea||T|
|White-throated Tyrannulet||Mecocerculus leucophrys||T|
|White-banded Tyrannulet||Mecocerculus stictopterus||T|
|Sierran Elaenia||Elaenia pallatangae||T|
|Slender-footed Tyrannulet||Zimmerius gracilipes||Ph|
|Streak-necked Flycatcher||Mionectes striaticollis||P|
|Ringed Antpipit||Corythopis torquata||P|
|Barred Becard||Pachyramphus versicolor||T|
|Black-crowned Tityra||Tityra inquisitor||P|
|Round-tailed Manakin||Pipra chloromeros||P|
|Blue-crowned Manakin||Pipra coronata||P|
|Band-tailed Manakin||Pipra fasciicauda||P|
|Yungas Manakin||Chiroxiphia boliviana||T|
|Fiery-capped Manakin||Machaeropterus pyrocephalus||P|
|Green Manakin||Chloropipo holochlora||P|
|Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin||Tyranneutes stolzmanni||P|
|Screaming Piha||Lipaugus vociferans||Ph|
|Purple-throated Fruitcrow||Querula purpurata||Ph|
|Bare-necked Fruitcrow||Gymnoderus foetidus||P|
|Andean Cock-of-the-Rock||Rupicola peruviana||T|
|White-winged Swallow||Tachycineta albiventer||P|
|Brown-chested Martin||Phaeoprogne tapera||P|
|Brown-bellied Swallow||Notiochelidon murina||T|
|Blue-and-white Swallow||Notiochelidon cyanoleuca||P|
|White-banded Swallow||Atticora fasciata||P|
|Southern Rough-winged Swallow||Stelgidopteryx ruficollis||P|
|White-collared Jay||Cyanolyca viridicyana||T|
|Purplish Jay||Cyanocorax cyanomelas||P|
|Violaceous Jay||Cyanocorax violaceus||P|
|Green Jay||Cyanocorax yncas||P|
|White-capped Dipper||Cinclus leucocephalus||T|
|Thrush-like Wren||Campylorhynchus turdinus||P|
|Moustached Wren||Thryothorus genibarbis||Ph|
|Buff-breasted Wren||Thryothorus leucotis||P|
|House Wren||Troglodytes aedon||C|
|Mountain Wren||Troglodytes solstitialis||T|
|Gray-breasted Wood-Wren||Henicorhina leucophrys||T|
|Southern Nightingale Wren||Microcerculus marginatus||P|
|Musician Wren||Cyphorhinus aradus||P|
|Andean Solitaire||Myadestes ralloides||T|
|White-eared Solitaire||Entomodestes leucotis||T|
|Chiguanco Thrush||Turdus chiguanco||C|
|Great Thrush||Turdus fuscater||T|
|Glossy-black Thrush||Turdus serranus||T|
|Creamy-bellied Thrush||Turdus amaurochalinus||P|
|Black-billed Thrush||Turdus ignobilis||P|
|Lawrence's Thrush||Turdus lawrencii||P|
|White-necked Thrush||Turdus albicollis||P|
|Rufous-browed Peppershrike||Cyclarhis gujanensis||T|
|Red-eyed Vireo||Vireo olivaceus||P|
|Brown-capped Vireo||Vireo leucophrys||T|
|Dusky-capped Greenlet||Hylophilus hypoxanthus||P|
|Tawny-crowned Greenlet||Hylophilus ochraceiceps||P|
|Giant Cowbird||Scaphidura oryzivora||P|
|Casqued Oropendola||Psarocolius oseryi||P|
|Crested Oropendola||Psarocolius decumanus||P|
|Dusky-green Oropendola||Psarocolius atrovirens||T|
|Russet-backed Oropendola||Psarocolius angustifrons||P|
|Amazonian Oropendola||Gymnostinops bifasciatus||P|
|Yellow-rumped Cacique||Cacicus cela||P|
|Mountain Cacique||Cacicus chrysonotus||T|
|Solitary Cacique||Cacicus solitarius||P|
|Yellow-winged Blackbird||Agelaius thilius||T|
|Slate-throated Redstart||Myioborus miniatus||T|
|Spectacled Redstart||Myioborus melanocephalus||T|
|Citrine Warbler||Basileuterus luteoviridis||T|
|Two-banded Warbler||Basileuterus bivittatus||T|
|Buff-rumped Warbler||Basileuterus fulvicauda||P|
|Cinereous Conebill||Conirostrum cinereum||C|
|Capped Conebill||Conirostrum albifrons||T|
|Bluish Flowerpiercer||Diglossopis caerulescens||T|
|Moustached Flowerpiercer||Diglossa mystacalis||T|
|Black-throated Flowerpiercer||Diglossa brunneiventris||T|
|Masked Flowerpiercer||Diglossopis cyanea||T|
|Purple Honeycreeper||Cyanerpes caeruleus||P|
|Green Honeycreeper||Chlorophanes spiza||P|
|Black-faced Dacnis||Dacnis lineata||P|
|Yellow-bellied Dacnis||Dacnis flaviventer||P|
|Swallow Tanager||Tersina viridis||P|
|Blue-naped Chlorophonia||Chlorophonia cyanea||P|
|Orange-bellied Euphonia||Euphonia xanthogaster||P|
|Thick-billed Euphonia||Euphonia laniirostris||P|
|Rufous-bellied Euphonia||Euphonia rufiventris||P|
|White-lored Euphonia||Euphonia chrysopasta||P|
|Fawn-breasted Tanager||Pipraeidea melanonota||T|
|Orange-eared Tanager||Chlorochrysa calliparaea||T|
|Opal-rumped Tanager||Tangara velia||P|
|Opal-crowned Tanager||Tangara callophrys||P|
|Paradise Tanager||Tangara chilensis||P|
|Green-and-gold Tanager||Tangara schrankii||P|
|Yellow-bellied Tanager||Tangara xanthogastra||P|
|Golden Tanager||Tangara arthus||T|
|Saffron-crowned Tanager||Tangara xanthocephala||T|
|Blue-necked Tanager||Tangara cyanicollis||P|
|Turquoise Tanager||Tangara mexicana||P|
|Bay-headed Tanager||Tangara gyrola||P|
|Beryl-spangled Tanager||Tangara nigroviridis||T|
|Blue-and-black Tanager||Tangara vassorii||T|
|Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager||Anisognathus igniventris||T|
|Chestnut-bellied Mtn-Tanager||Delothraupis castaneoventris||T|
|Blue-gray Tanager||Thraupis episcopus||P|
|Palm Tanager||Thraupis palmarum||P|
|Blue-capped Tanager||Thraupis cyanocephala||T|
|Silver-beaked Tanager||Ramphocelus carbo||P|
|Rufous-chested Tanager||Thlypopsis ornata||T|
|Hepatic Tanager||Piranga flava||T|
|Olive Tanager||Chlorothraupis carmioli||P|
|Red-crowned Ant-Tanager||Habia rubica||P|
|White-winged Shrike-Tanager||Lanio versicolor||P|
|Yellow-crested Tanager||Tachyphonus rufiventer||P|
|White-shouldered Tanager||Tachyphonus luctuosus||P|
|Rust-and-yellow Tanager||Thlypopsis ruficeps||T|
|Common Bush-Tanager||Chlorospingus ophthalmicus||T|
|Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager||Chlorospingus flavigularis||T|
|Black-capped Hemispingus||Hemispingus atropileus||T|
|Superciliaried Hemispingus||Hemispingus superciliaris||T|
|Drab Hemispingus||Hemispingus xanthophthalmus||T|
|Grass-green Tanager||Chlorornis riefferii||T|
|Magpie Tanager||Cissopis leveriana||P|
|Buff-throated Saltator||Saltator maximus||P|
|Grayish Saltator||Saltator coerulescens||P|
|Golden-billed Saltator||Saltator aurantiirostris||T|
|Slate-colored Grosbeak||Pitylus grossus||P|
|Red-capped Cardinal||Paroaria gularis||P|
|Blue-black Grassquit||Volatinia jacarina||P|
|Double-collared Seedeater||Sporophila caerulescens||P|
|Band-tailed Seedeater||Catamenia analis||C|
|Greenish Yellow-Finch||Sicalis olivascens||C|
|Peruvian Sierra-Finch||Phrygilus punensis||C|
|Mourning Sierra-Finch||Phrygilus fruticeti||C|
|Plumbeous Sierra-Finch||Phrygilus unicolor||C|
|Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch||Phrygilus plebejus||C|
|Rufous-naped Brush-Finch||Atlapetes rufinucha||C|
|Pectoral Sparrow||Arremon taciturnus||P|
|Yellow-browed Sparrow||Ammodramus aurifrons||P|
|Rufous-collared Sparrow||Zonotrichia capensis||C|
|Chestnut-breasted Mtn.-Finch||Poospiza caesar||C|
|Hooded Siskin||Carduelis magellanica||C|
|Olivaceous Siskin||Carduelis olivacea||T|
La Paz, BOLIVIA