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U.S.A.  --  Hawaii – Kaua’i

18 - 31 December 1997

by Jennifer Matkin

This trip report covers a trip I took to the Hawaiian Islands in late December and early January of 1997-1998.  My family [parents (Jack and Linda), brother (John), sister (Chris)] and I spent the first two weeks on Kaua'i, staying in Princeville, and eleven days on the Big Island, staying in Kona.  This was my sixth extended trip to the Hawaiian Islands, but my first as a birder.  Mom wanted to spend Christmas in Hawai'i and offered to take the "kids" (ages 33, 31 and 21) along.  She didn't have to twist our arms!

We left San Francisco early on December 18th, arriving at the Honolulu Airport just after noon, Hawai'i time.  I had about twenty minutes to kill, so I hung out next to the gate for a few minutes, promptly picking up four lifers (all introduced birds, of course).  In the small garden area with benches outside the Aloha Airlines gate were RED-VENTED BULBULS, ZEBRA DOVES, a JAPANESE WHITE-EYE (also known by its Japanese name, "MEJIRO"), and COMMON MYNAS, as well as SPOTTED DOVES and HOUSE SPARROWS.

We then caught the forty minute flight to Kaua'i.  After landing, we taxied down the runway, along which I saw dozens of KOLEA (PACIFIC GOLDEN-PLOVERS), along with many COMMON MYNAS.  Both of these species proved to be incredibly abundant in the Islands.  We then collected our rental cars and drove to Princeville, which is on the north shore of Kaua'i.  On the way out of the Airport I saw a flock of beautiful CHESTNUT MANNIKINS (introduced) along the road, and on the way north I saw hundreds of CATTLE EGRETS.  The egrets apparently were introduced to Kaua'i in the 1950s to help control pests, and are now seen in almost every available nook and cranny of the island.  I remember this ever-present egret from my previous trips to Kaua'i as a non- birder.  We also saw a male RING-NECKED PHEASANT along the road, and numerous RED JUNGLEFOWL, some of which may have had some "wild" blood in them, but most of which were probably feral.

As we drove into Princeville along the golf course, I saw another flock of CHESTNUT MANNIKINS, a few HAWAIIAN COOTS (currently a separate species from the AMERICAN COOT), and a drop-dead gorgeous RED-CRESTED CARDINAL.  At one point I glanced up and started yelling frantically at Chris and John, "Look!  Look!", while stabbing at the sky with my finger.  There was a GREAT FRIGATEBIRD soaring right over our car!!  Nice start to the trip.

After we arrived at Princeville and checked into our ocean-view condos, I wandered the grounds a little, finding many KOLEA, MYNAS and WHITE-EYES, as well as a lot more of the fabulous RED-CRESTED CARDINALS and a NORTHERN CARDINAL.  I scanned the ocean with my binoculars, and turned up another GREAT FRIGATEBIRD and a LAYSAN ALBATROSS soaring in the distance, the FRIGATEBIRD hanging high, and the ALBATROSS skimming the waves with ease.  I noticed a large white blob in the grass on the next pali (hill/cliff), but ignored it as a piece of trash.  As I continued to scan, some other guests walked under my balcony and asked what I was looking at.  I said that I had seen a LAYSAN ALBATROSS, and they said "Oh, have you seen the nests?" "Where?" "Oh, just over there" they said, pointing across the pali.  "They are nesting in someone's yard." I scanned the grassy knoll across the small canyon, and sure enough, that big white blob was an albatross on a nest!  Some birder I turned out to be!

Mom and I drove over there for a closer look, and after several wrong turns down dead-ends, we found the area where the albatrosses were.  There were actually many nests, spread out among the houses and grassy lots in this residential subdivision.  Some were tucked under hedges, others were out in the middle of open lots.  Later my sister pointed out one on a large patch of grass near the golf course, the denizens of which we dubbed "Bob" and "Josie".  We had to pass Bob and Josie every time we drove to the condos, and always stopped to say "hello." The gardeners had continued to mow the grassy areas around all of these the nests, leaving a small (five-foot or so) swatch of longer grass around the actual nest.  The birds did not appear to be at all bothered by human activity, and allowed close approach.

Some of the birds were tending nests, two were affectionately allopreening and courting at the nest, and four apparent "singles" were involved in a strange and wonderful dance on a vacant lot.  They were bowing and bobbing their heads at one another, then raising their bills to the sky and calling, then performing a little "strutting" routine, in which they would step out across the grass in a very exaggerated walk.  It was a joy to watch.  We stayed until it was almost dark, wandering the neighborhood and discovering more and more nests.

As the sun set, we wandered out to the point.  Out of the bushes below us came a loud, musical warbling that I had not heard before.  A few minutes later I saw the aptly named MELODIOUS LAUGHING-THRUSH (also known by its Chinese name, "HWAMEI") that was responsible.  It is a lovely orange-brown bird with a comically distinctive white eye-ring with a long tail behind the eye.

A feast of pupus, featuring excellent Old Bay spiced shrimp steamed in beer (just how I learned to cook them in Maryland and still by far the best method) at the Hanalei Gourmet topped off a great first day.

I arose before dawn and watched the sun rise over the ocean, the occasional LAYSAN ALBATROSS cruising by, and listened to the WESTERN MEADOWLARKS joining the dawn chorus of the HWAMEI, RED-CRESTED CARDINALS, COMMON MYNAS, and ZEBRA DOVES.  I spent some time studying the KOLEA, hoping to get a better sense of the individual variation in this species to help me next time I am trying to identify an AMERICAN GOLDEN-PLOVER.  That morning we drove the north shore towards the Napali Coast, stopping briefly at the overlook for the Hanalei Wildlife Refuge.  The overlook provides a wide vista of the Hanalei Valley below.  The Hanalei river flows through a broad flat, incredibly lush valley, set off by spectacular rugged green pali behind.  The valley is filled with lush taro fields, where local farmers grow the root from which the islanders make one of their favorite dishes, poi, a grayish-purple glutinous paste that is rather an acquired taste.  Taro fields are flooded, and there are great numbers of birds in this beautiful valley.  From the overlook we were able to see the Hawaiian race of the BLACK-NECKED STILT, HAWAIIAN COOTS, COMMON MOORHENS, and dozens of BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERONS, which were very active and visible.  We also saw some ducks in the distance, but they were too far away to identify, even in the scope, so I still hoped to come back to find KOLOA (HAWAIIAN DUCK).

We continued on to the end of the road at the north end of the island.  The Napali Coast is too rugged for roadbuilding, so there is no way to circumnavigate the island.  At the north end is beautiful Ke'e Beach, which is bordered on the west by a rugged coastline of black rock.  I went down to the beach and set up my scope, and soon saw several BLACK NODDIES foraging near shore up the coast.  I also saw another GREAT FRIGATEBIRD, and saw a mystery booby fly by, too far offshore to identify.  Apparently BROWN BOOBIES can be seen in this area, but I couldn't get a good enough look at this individual to name it to species.  We stopped for lunch at Ha'ena, where WHITE-TAILED TROPICBIRDS cavorted above the cliffs, GREAT FRIGATEBIRDS cruised by high over the ocean, and ZEBRA DOVES and COMMON MYNAS begged at our feet.

We spent the afternoon walking the entire shoreline of Hanalei Bay, where I saw two more GREAT FRIGATEBIRDS, a WANDERING TATTLER (also known as "'ULILI", which is just what it sounds like!), and a lot of great scenery.  That night Mom and I wandered over to check on the albatrosses, and were once again treated to dancing, strutting, and allopreening displays.  One of the birds on a nest raised itself up several times to preen, showing off two enormous dirty-brown speckled eggs.  I was able to stand about eight feet from some of the birds and study them feather by feather.  What an incredible opportunity.  They are beautiful creatures.

On Saturday morning I did a quick run back to the Hanalei Wildlife Refuge by myself, where I was able to find several KOLOA (HAWAIIAN DUCKS).  As I was driving out of the refuge area, I saw a flock of small birds fly off the road and land in a taro patch.  I found four of them in the binoculars perching precariously on taro stalks.  They were NUTMEG MANNIKINS (introduced), adorable little birds.

We spent the afternoon at Poipu Beach, snorkeling and sunbathing, where we saw an unbelievable number of tropical reef fish, including wrasses, parrotfish, needlefish, several types of spectacular butterflyfish and surgeonfish, triggerfish, boxfish, goatfish, damselfish, and my personal favorite, the glamorous moorish idol.  I have spent a lot of time snorkeling in Hawai'i before, but it seemed to me that the diversity and density of fish at Poipu was better than I had seen in a long time.  Perhaps the south shore is finally recovering from the devastating effects of Hurricane Iniki, and before that, Hurricane Iwa.

While sunning at Poipu I glanced up from my book once to see a GREAT FRIGATEBIRD soaring over.  Cool.  On the way to Poipu we stopped along Oma'o Road near Koloa, where I found two WHITE-RUMPED SHAMAS and a JAPANESE BUSH- WARBLER, both introduced.  The BUSH-WARBLER was a real skulker - I saw it moving around a lot in the bushes but had only a brief look at its face.

On Sunday, the 21st, I spent the day near Princeville taking care of Christmas shopping and other important matters.  I also walked over to take another look at the LAYSAN ALBATROSS nests.  I couldn't believe my great fortunate to have these beautiful birds nesting within walking distance of our condos.

Monday, December 22nd was the big day.  I had arranged a trip with David Kuhn of Terran Tours around the Kokee area.  Rather than venture deep into the Alakai Swamp for the most elusive species, I wanted to spend a day out in the field with a birder experienced with Kaua'i's few remaining endemic honeycreepers.  On the two hour drive down to Waimea Canyon in the morning, my mother and I listened to tapes of these honeycreepers, and I tried to prepare to distinguish their calls and songs.  As we drove up the canyon I saw an ERCKEL'S FRANCOLIN on the side of the road, and we saw more later.  We met David near Kokee Lodge, then transferred into his four-wheel drive vehicle for the drive to the Pihea Trail.  I had let David know that I was interested in vocalizations, so along the way David played tapes and pointed out what I should be listening for along the trail.  Apparently the KAUA'I 'AMAKIHI had recently begun singing, and the 'APAPANE and I'IWI would be singing as well.  The call notes were more difficult to distinguish, as each of the seven target species (the above three, plus 'AKEKE'E, 'AKIKIKI (also known as KAUAI CREEPER) and the Kaua'i race of the 'ELEPAIO), have some form of upslurred two-parted call.

David was very good at evaluating weather conditions and we managed to spend a day on the Pihea Trail along Kawaikoi Stream without getting too wet.  Along the trail we saw numerous 'APAPANE, which seemed to be doing very well.  Their somewhat disjointed song was constantly hovering in the air among the canopy of 'ohi'a trees, upon whose blossoms (lehua) they foraged.  I dearly loved these 'APAPANE - they were an absolute joy.  Their bodies are a bright crimson red, their wings contrasting black, their undertail coverts white, and their black bill medium-long and decurved.  We also saw the relatively common KAUA'I 'AMAKIHI (currently a separate species from the Hawai'i and O'ahu versions) fairly quickly and often, and I got to know its distinctive harsh call.  Three times we heard an 'AMAKIHI sing, a slow sweet trill somewhat reminiscent of that of the ORANGE-CROWNED WARBLER.  The 'AMAKIHI is a medium yellow honeycreeper with a short tail, black in the lores, and a medium-length dark, decurved bill. 

Within a very short time I saw a bird that I didn't recognize, which David identified as a female 'ANIANIAU, a dull yellow honeycreeper with a long decurved bill, no black in the lores, and a soft sweet call note.  Shortly thereafter David heard an 'AKEKE'E.  Over the next 45 minutes or so we heard several of these birds, the Kauai version of the HAWAI'I 'AKEPA, but we had a terrible time seeing one.  They feed on leaf buds at the tops of the 'ohi'a trees, and are very difficult to see.  I got pretty good at identifying them by their dull yellow color and forked tails in flight, though, as they repeatedly flew away from us!  Eventually, I had great looks at these little birds, which have thick, swollen, finchlike bills, and which David pointed out are probably relatively close to the honeycreepers' common ancestor.

Further up the trail we started to hear strange, off-key notes and whistles, one of which sounded to me almost exactly like the whistle used by hotel doormen in San Francisco to call taxis.  This was the song of the I'IWI, a spectacular bird of crimson body, black wings, pink legs, and a pink, long, extraordinarily decurved bill.  We ended up seeing quite a few of these incredible creatures, and laughed out loud several times listening to their bizarre vocalizations.

All along the way we saw many 'ELEPAIO of the Kauai race, which may be split from the other 'ELEPAIOs.  This bird is priceless, a little bundle of flitty energy with a cocked tail and bright eyes, and a charming habit of dropping in a loose swirling fashion like a falling leaf.  These birds were quite common, and I never tired of watching them.  We saw both immatures, with the buffy crowns, and adults with gray crowns.  Fortunately, this species at least seemed to be doing quite well in the forest.

Unfortunately, so are the MEJIRO, which were abundant in every habitat and at every level of the forest.  There was just no escaping these introduced birds.

One species that we had not yet seen by lunch was the 'AKIKIKI, or KAUAI CREEPER.  David had heard a few, but we had been unable to find them.  We decided to try for them again after lunch, and went back up the trail to look again.  Eventually, David spotted one in an 'ohi'a tree and I was able to get great looks at it.  It is a very cute little bird, gray above and pale below, with an extremely short tail and a habit of crawling along tree trunks like a nuthatch.  It flew a few times but we were able to track it for awhile and enjoy its distinctive behavior.  I never would have picked out the call of, or probably have seen, this bird without David's help.

That topped off a great trip and it was time to go.  As I drove down Waimea Canyon I was rambling on about what a great trip it was when I glanced out my window and noticed a very large bird flying right at eye level along the rim of the canyon.  I yelled "PUEO!", screeched to a halt on the shoulder, threw open the car door, and, with the car running and door open, ran to the canyon rim in time to see a SHORT-EARED OWL (also known as "HAWAIIAN OWL", or "PUEO") soaring along the rim of the canyon.  The big mysterious bird was set off beautifully by the reds and greens of this incredible gorge.

Later, we stopped at the Salt Ponds to see if we could get lucky and see a BRISTLE-THIGHED CURLEW, but no luck.  We did see huge flocks of MANNIKINS (mostly CHESTNUT) and HOUSE SPARROWS, as well as countless KOLEA, and at the Salt Ponds we saw RUDDY TURNSTONES (also known as "'AKEKEKE").  We stopped briefly at the Hanapepe Valley overlook to look for ROSE-RINGED PARAKEETS, but the traffic noise made the stop unpleasant and we left quickly.

In the morning, while sipping coconut flavored coffee and watching the ocean, I saw a line of three adult RED-FOOTED BOOBIES fly by, and my brother picked out some HUMPBACKED WHALES spouting.  These whales gather in the warm Hawaiian waters in the winter to breed, and we often saw them breaching, showing their tails, spouting, and flipper-slapping, easily visible from shore.  I also saw several LAYSAN ALBATROSSES again, one of which flew right by my balcony.

After Christmas shopping in Hanalei I drove out to the Wainiha Powerhouse Road to look for GREATER NECKLACED LAUGHING THRUSH, but was quickly devoured by gnats and gave it up.  I did see a lovely male WHITE-RUMPED SHAMA, though.  Later that day I made my first trip to the Kilauea Lighthouse, where I immediately saw about 300 RED-FOOTED BOOBIES perched in trees along the cliff.  I only noticed two immatures; the rest appeared to be adults.  This is a large nesting colony of the blue-billed birds of the bright red feet.  I watched them for awhile, then walked out to the Lighthouse.  From the Point I was able to watch GREAT FRIGATEBIRDS (all females) hanging over my head, not flapping for minutes at a time, and LAYSAN ALBATROSSES cruising the ocean.  I also saw the ALBATROSS nesting colony, and put a nice group of courting individuals in my scope for others to watch.  Right next to the Women's Room was a nice trio of NENE, the native Hawaiian goose.  Apparently the population at Kilauea is from an escaped group of geese from a captive breeding program.  All were banded and quite tame.

On Christmas Eve I got up early and arrived at the Hanalei Wildlife Refuge before dawn.  I watched a large pond towards the end of the road as the sky grew light and the birds began to take shape.  There were many KOLOA here, as well as HAWAIIAN COOTS, BLACK-NECKED STILTS (of the Hawaiian race), BLACK- CROWNED NIGHT-HERONS, and KOLEA.  As soon as it was light enough to see I hauled my scope up the new trail to a heiau, site of a Hawaiian temple, which overlooked the valley.  On the way up I heard a loud song in a voice reminiscent of a MEADOWLARK, loud, sweet and clear, which turned out to be a JAPANESE BUSH-WARBLER.  Once again, this species was very difficult to see.  I also heard several HWAMEI, whose song I had come to know well because it was the first thing I heard every morning, and watched a pair of gorgeous WHITE- RUMPED SHAMAS forage on the ground and in low piles of brush near the trail.  The male was spectacular.  His head and back were so black that they shone almost blue in the light, his underparts were a rich rufous, and his long tail (twice as long as his body) was bright white underneath.  His white rump feathers flashed every time he flew or landed with his back to me.  Nice.  I also heard other SHAMAS singing in the forest, and saw a single NUTMEG MANNIKIN on the way out.

After an hour and a half I drove back to Princeville.  As I drove by "Josie", who was sitting tight on "her" nest in the rain (pretty tough to sex these albatrosses), I noticed a flock of birds on the side of the road.  Someone had placed a hanging feeder with seed in it in their yard, and the yard was hopping with dozens of JAVA SPARROWS, RED-CRESTED CARDINALS, HOUSE SPARROWS, and ZEBRA DOVES.  Quite a scene.

Christmas Day was perfect.  After presents and breakfast, we drove out to Kilauea to say "hi" to the BOOBIES, then hiked to Secret Beach, which is just up the coast from the lighthouse.  Along the path I saw SHAMAS, HWAMEI, and a WESTERN MEADOWLARK.  We walked the entire length of this gorgeous beach, where I studied several WANDERING TATTLERS ('ULILI), many fly-by LAYSAN ALBATROSSES, two GREAT FRIGATEBIRDS, and several WHITE-TAILED TROPICBIRDS.

On the day after Christmas, we paddled up the Wailua River in kayaks, disembarking upstream to hike up an absurdly slick and muddy trail to Secret Falls.  On the way I saw more SHAMAS, lots of RED JUNGLEFOWL of dubious origin, and a probable PUEO flying away.  Mostly, though, I just wore myself out paddling and hiking.  Good day.

Saturday I checked Keahua Arboretum briefly for GREATER NECKLACED LAUGHING- THRUSH, but it was very quiet there and I didn't stay long.  On the way down the hill I saw my first ROCK DOVES on the island, which was a real thrill.  ;) Mom and I went back to Kilauea yet again, where she tried to snap pictures of FRIGATEBIRDS, BOOBIES, and ALBATROSSES as they flew by, and I just watched them.  I loved standing out there surrounded by huge, graceful seabirds.  At one point I looked up to find three GREAT FRIGATEBIRDS over my head, raised my binoculars to look at them, and saw that one was a male!  It looked even more ominous and vaguely evil than the females, with its all-coal black body and bright red throat.  Apparently males are not very common at Kilauea, so I was happy to see it.

That afternoon we went to see Dick Miller, a local bird artist, at his home/studio.  I loved his pictures of the Hawaiian endemics, and spent a long time there chatting about birds and conservation matters.  I had to have prints of some of my favorites, the 'APAPANE, I'IWI, and 'AMAKIHI.  It was sad to see some pictures of lovely endemics that are extinct, though.  Seeing a lovely, lifelike print of the long-gone MAMO was pretty darn depressing.

The next day was the north Kaua'i Christmas Bird Count.  I was to meet the group at Kilauea Lighthouse at 1 p.m.  We were allowed access to the LAYSAN ALBATROSS nesting colony, and it was an amazing experience to walk through the densely populated area with 79 albatross nests.  I noticed several nests that had eggs sitting next to them.  Apparently when the eggs roll out of the nests the albatrosses don't notice, and they continue to incubate the nest.  Beautiful birds, but none too bright, I'm afraid.  After that, the Fish and Wildlife representative was to take us up to Crater Hill behind the BOOBY nesting colony, but on the way up the truck's drive-shaft broke.  We climbed out and walked up the hill, where we were attacked by an aggressive NENE defending its nesting territory.  We did get to the overlook, though, where we saw many WHITE-TAILED TROPICBIRDS, GREAT FRIGATEBIRDS (including another male), and many RED-FOOTED BOOBIES.  We didn't have much time, though, so we were off to the taro fields of Hanalei.  There it began to rain extremely hard, and the rest of the group gave up.  I was excited about the possibility of wandering the usually off-limits taro fields, though, so I offered to stay behind and check the various ponds.  I only made it out to the main pond, through the rain and mud, before it got dark, but there I was able to pick up a CANVASBACK, RING-NECKED DUCKS, LESSER SCAUP, and 22 NORTHERN PINTAILS, along with many KOLOA.

On Monday I had arranged for all of us to go on the "official" hike up Crater Hill at Kilauea, on which we saw more NENE and the various seabirds.  I also saw a BARN OWL there in the morning.  Before the Kilauea hike I went back out to the Hanalei refuge and saw more JAPANESE BUSH-WARBLERS, WHITE-RUMPED SHAMAS, and HWAMEI near the heiau.  In the afternoon we drove to Poipu via the Menehune Fish Pond along the Huleia Stream.  I stopped at the Fish Pond overlook to scan for GREATER NECKLACED LAUGHING-THRUSH, which is a nomadic and highly elusive species, and incredibly found a flock of six of them within a few minutes.  They were flying along the canopy far below the overlook.  I watched them for a few minutes, and then they disappeared from view around a bend in the river.  I was very lucky to see them.  There was also a single male MALLARD in the river.

When we arrived at Poipu I did a little seawatching at Makahuena Point.  Winter is the wrong time of year to see shearwaters and RED-TAILED TROPICBIRDS, but I had hopes of seeing my lifer BROWN BOOBY, which I did!  It was a nice adult, and I was able to track it in the scope for several minutes before losing it.  Mom and I spent half an hour watching several green sea turtles foraging in a small pool below us, before we had to leave to meet the others, who had spent the afternoon golfing.

On December 30th the whole family went back to the Alakai Swamp area to hike.  We hiked the Alakai Swamp Trail and the Pihea Trail.  This was not a pure birding hike, but I did manage to see and hear numerous 'APAPANE, several KAUA'I 'AMAKIHI (including two singing) and 'ELEPAIO, a couple of I'IWI, and five 'AKEKE'E.  I love wandering that area.  The forest is alive with the wonderful vocalizations of the 'APAPANE, and the trees sparkle with flashes of crimson and yellow honeycreepers working the scarlet lehua blossoms of the 'ohi'a tree.  Magical.

Our last day on Kaua'i was New Year's Eve.  My family went south to Poipu for some sun, but I wanted to see the Napali Coast again and to get better looks at BLACK NODDIES.  Just past Princeville I stopped and scoped the Hanalei Valley from the overlook.  There was a gull flying around the largest pond.  It was quite distant, but looked like a RING-BILLED GULL, which is one of the more typical gulls found wintering in Hawai'i.

I then drove on to the end of the road and parked at Ke'e Beach near the trailhead for the Kalalau trail, which runs out along the Napali Coast to three hidden valleys.  I wanted to hike out the trail looking for seabirds.  I started out in the rain, slipping and sliding quite a bit on the trail of slick red clay mud.  I stopped at most of the ocean overlooks to look for seabirds, and almost every time was rewarded with eye level views of WHITE- TAILED TROPICBIRDS, and several times saw small groups of RED-FOOTED BOOBIES flying by.  I also saw several pods of HUMPBACK WHALES, some breaching and fin-flopping.  Landbirds included many MEJIRO and a few HWAMEI, usually seen rather than heard.

At one great overlook near the first valley, I stopped for a long time, watching the TROPICBIRDS, BOOBIES, and whales, while several parties of hikers skidded by me as they lost their footing on the slippery trail.  I hiked to the next pali, but was losing the best ocean views as I descended, so I opted to go back to my favorite lookout.  There I was rewarded with a look at two BLACK NODDIES flying in off of the ocean, making a beeline for the black cliffs below me.  They flew right under a black lava overhang about 500 feet below me.  Soon, several other pairs of NODDIES burst out from beneath the overhang, circled over the waves, then disappeared into the black rock.  I stood there for about 1/2 hour watching the NODDIES come and go from their nesting colony, which I had finally found!  At times, up to 25 NODDIES flew out from the rocks at once, usually returning quite quickly to their roosts.  I was able to show them to a few hikers, but as I generally found to be true in Hawai'i, few people had much interest in wildlife, with the exception of whales.  Everybody loves whales, but birds seem to fail to capture the imagination of most.

Eventually I had to return to the parking lot, falling once on the descent and barely avoiding disaster to my binoculars in the process.  In the parking lot were numerous RED JUNGLEFOWL, ZEBRA DOVES, and a female WHITE-RUMPED SHAMA.  I then went home and dressed for our New Year's Eve "luau" at Tahiti Nui, a locally run place in Hanalei operated by "Aunt" Louise Marsden.  We had first visited Tahiti Nui back in 1982 or so, so it was fun to return.  Apparently, others think that it is a great place too, because in walked Dianne Feinstein and her family, bedecked in flowers.  They had been there before too.  A fun evening.

The next morning was New Year's Day, and we were off to the Big Island for a new adventure.

Jennifer Matkin

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