Northern India Birding Trip Report Part 3 - January 2010 - by the Maritimes Nature Travel Club

Day 15 - February 08, Tuesday: Chambal Sanctuary, Kuchesar

We went first thing in the morning to the Chambal River for bird and mammal watching. This river is the only major river flowing from the Himalayas through India that is NOT considered holy and, ironically, the corresponding lack of attention it receives means it is one of the most natural rivers in the country. It is superb for nature watching.

We were scheduled for a morning boat outing, with hopes of seeing a good variety of local bird specialities, most particularly Indian Skimmer. And several special mammals were potentially on offer on our river ride as well. We thoroughly enjoyed our boat trip even though we failed to see Indian Skimmer, though lodge guests on the afternoon boat outing sighted two. But our sighting of a Jungle Cat was considerably more rare.

A short video showing a portion of an immense flock of Bar-headed Geese floating on the Chambal River.

We returned to the lodge for a late lunch, then spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the well-wooded lodge grounds, as well as the surrounding agricultural fields, which were productive for pipits.

A short video showing a Black-rumped Flameback woodpecker excavating a nesting hole.

It should be noted that it rained this day, and any rain in February in northern India has heretofore been considered exceptional, as the first few rains are not expected until late March. But, with climate change, all bets are now off, and we experienced three different days with rain on our trip. This did not impact our activities, but did make the driving even more onerous that it would otherwise have been, especially on the subsequent two days.

A series of linked short videos illustrating the frustrating rate of travel along major highways in India.
On this trip we were driving from Chambal to Kuchesar, via Delhi. Our average speed was s-l-o-w. . . .

Day List Bird Highlights (of 112 species), along the Chambal River, unless otherwise noted:

Lesser Whistling-Duck
Bar-headed Goose
Comb Duck
Little Grebe
Red-naped Ibis
Osprey
Oriental Honey-buzzard (at Lodge)
Black-shouldered Kite
Short-toed Eagle
Eurasian Sparrowhawk
Long-legged Buzzard
Bonelli’s Eagle
Great Thick-knee
River Lapwing
Small Pratincole
Brown-headed Gull
Great Black-headed Gull
Black-bellied Tern
River Tern
Red Collared-Dove (at Lodge)
Brown Fish-Owl
Rufous-tailed Shrike (at Lodge)
Indian Bushlark
Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark
Greater Short-toed Lark
Crested Lark
Oriental Skylark
Zitting Cisticola
Golden-headed Cisticola
Blue Rock-Thrush
Tickell’s Thrush (at Lodge)
Oriental Pipit (at Lodge)
Long-billed Pipit
Tawny Pipit (at Lodge)
Tree Pipit (at Lodge)
Baya Weaver (at Lodge)

Day List Faunal (non-bird) Highlights:

Marsh Mugger
Gharial (Fish-eating Crocodile)
Gangetic Dolphin
Jungle Cat

White-browed Wagtail. Photo © 2010 by Blake Maybank

Comb Duck & Indian Whistling-Ducks Photo © 2010 by Blake Maybank

Marsh Mugger. Photo © 2010 by Blake Maybank

Day 17 - February 10, Wednesday: Kuchesar to Ramnagar & Corbett N.P.

We spent all morning on the bus on the (at times) interminable drive to Ramnagar, just outside Corbett National Park. The rains had turned road construction areas to large expanses of mud but, despite the delays, we did arrive at our lodge, and in the afternoon we birded in the Ramnagar area (though outside the park), including the Ramganger River.

We overnighted at the Tiger Camp.

Day List Bird Highlights (of 65 species)

Red Junglefowl
Great Crested Grebe
White-rumped Vulture
Eurasian Griffon
Crested Serpent-Eagle
White-eyed Buzzard
Sarus Crane (seen on farm fields during the morning's drive)
River Lapwing
Red-breasted Parakeet
Jungle Owlet
Common Kingfisher
Stork-billed Kingfisher
Crested Kingfisher
Oriental Pied-Hornbill
Lineated Barbet
Brown-capped Woodpecker
Gray-faced Woodpecker
Himalayan Flameback
Scarlet Minivet
Golden-fronted Leafbird
Green Magpie
Great Tit
Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch
Wallcreeper (on the dam over the Ramganger River)
Golden-spectacled Warbler
Gray-hooded Warbler
Rufous-bellied Niltava
White-capped Redstart
Plumbeous Redstart
Gray Bushchat
Blue Whistling-Thrush
White-crested Laughingthrush
Common Woodshrike
Hair-crested Drongo

Jungle Owlet. Photo © 2010 by Blake Maybank

Wallcreeper. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert

Plumbeous Redstart. Photo © 2010 by Blake Maybank.

Common Woodshrike. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert

Rufous-bellied-Niltava. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

White-cheeked-Bulbul. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Day 18 - February 11, Thursday: Corbett N.P.

This was to be our first full day in Corbett National Park. After breakfast we stopped to try for Ibisbill at a couple of spots along the river, but without success. We then entered the park and drove to Dhikala Forest Lodge, where the park headquarters is located, along the Ramganger River. All went well until after lunch, when we experienced the incident described in the introduction to this trip report. I accompanied our injured participant back to Dehli (by ambulance), and neither of us participated in the rest of the trip (though somewhat ironically those of us in the front seat of the ambulance saw a tiger on the drive out of Corbett, which was missed by all but one of the group in the following vehicles).

The rest of the group "re-grouped" and left Corbett, staying in alternative accommodations in Ramnagar. They were still accompanied by Abhi and Rataan, so were in good hands.

Morning List Bird Highlights (of 65 species)

Kalij Pheasant
Pallas’s Fish-Eagle
Gray-headed Fish-Eagle
Tawny Fish-Owl
White-rumped Needletail
Alpine Swift
Crested Treeswift
Great Hornbill
Great Barbet
Blue-throated Barbet
Greater Yellownape
Streak-throated Woodpecker
Himalayan Flameback
Long-tailed Minivet
Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike
Velvet-fronted Nuthatch
Red-vented Bulbul
White-cheeked Bulbul
Black Bulbul
Lemon-rumped Warbler
Hume’s Warbler
Gray-hooded Warbler
Taiga Flycatcher
White-capped Redstart
Blue Whistling-Thrush
Yellow-bellied Fantail
Black-chinned Babbler

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Blue Whistling-Thrush. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert

Great Barbet. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Day 19 - February 12, Friday: Ramnagar

The original planned itinerary, a morning in the heart of Corbett NP, had to be altered in light of the events of the previous day. Instead the group scoured the banks of the Ramganger River looking for Ibisbill, as well as spending time in good adjacent forest habitat. The group's diligence, and the perserverance of Rataan, paid off, with wonderful looks at two Ibisbill, plus other exciting birds.

Day List Bird Highlights (of 65 species)

Ibisbill
Blue-bearded Bee-eater
Indian Gray Hornbill
Oriental Pied-Hornbill
Gray-faced Woodpecker
Greater Flameback
Himalayan Flameback
Gray Treepie
Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike
Bar-tailed Treecreeper
Golden-spectacled Warbler
Gray-hooded Warbler
Slaty-blue Flycatcher
Yellow-bellied Fantail
White-throated Fantail
Eastern Crimson Sunbird
Large Woodshrike
Hair-crested Drongo

Gray Treepie. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Greater Flameback. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Blue-bearded-Bee-eater. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Day 20 - February 13, Saturday: Bijrani Range Forest

With Ibisbill securely on the list the group switched their attention to forest birds, and also investigated streams. There were plenty of new trip birds, many of which would have been lifers for me, had I not been in Delhi.

Day List Bird Highlights (of 65 species)

Woolly-necked Stork
Collared Falconet
Stork-billed Kingfisher
Great Hornbill
Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike
Brown Dipper
Buff-barred Warbler
Little Forktail
Spotted Forktail
White-browed Fantail
Black-hooded Oriole
Hair-crested Drongo

Wooly-necked-Stork. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Black-hooded-Oriole. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

White-browed-Fantail. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Gray-faced Woodpecker. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Spotted-Forktail. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Day 21 - February 14, Sunday: Jhirna Range Forest, & drive to Pangot

The morning was spent visiting a different forested area, the Jhirna Range Forest, and after lunch the group embarked on the long, somewhat rough drive to Pangot, at higher elevations. The unexpected risk of snowfall made the venture a bit unnerving, because if the road were to be closed due to snow the group would be stranded, and would miss their flights on the 17th. But some of the highlights of the morning's birding helped reduce the tension somewhat. Overnight at the Jungle Lore Birding Lodge. Another birding guide, Nick, joined the group for the birding in Pangot, and the group said good-bye to Rataan, who had been a superb guide throughout his stay with us, in all locations, and in all habitats.

Day List Bird Highlights (of 45 species)

Lineated Barbet
Himalayan Woodpecker
Streak-throated Woodpecker
Green-backed Tit
Black-throated Tit
Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch
Eurasian Treecreeper
Gray-breasted Prinia
Red-breasted Flycatcher
Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush
Yellow-bellied Fantail
White-throated Laughingthrush
Streaked Laughingthrush
Eastern Crimson Sunbird
Chestnut-tailed Starling
Russet Sparrow

Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Green-backed Tit. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Day 22 - February 15, Monday: Pangot

A full day's birding at Pangot confirmed two facts -- it was a wonderful birding area (as it was much higher in the foothills), and the trip's itinerary should have allowed a longer stay. Many new trip birds were found, and I missed, once again, many potential lifers. The group was very pleased with the day's list, but were concerned regarding threatening weather.

Day List Bird Highlights (of 51 species)

Himalayan Griffon
Mountain Hawk-Eagle
Slaty-headed Parakeet
Alpine Swift
Brown-fronted Woodpecker
Black-headed Jay
Black-lored Tit
Black-throated Tit
Plain Prinia
Lemon-rumped Warbler
Yellow-browed Warbler
Western Crowned Leaf-Warbler
Black-faced Warbler
Slaty-blue Flycatcher
White-capped Redstart
Spotted Forktail
Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush
Blue Whistling-Thrush
Scaly Thrush
White-throated Laughingthrush
Streaked Laughingthrush
White-browed Shrike-Babbler
Rufous Sibia
Bronzed Drongo
Himalayan Accentor
Olive-backed Pipit
Yellow-breasted Greenfinch
Nutmeg Mannikin

White-throated Laughingthrush. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Nutmeg-Mannikin. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Yellow-breasted-Greenfinch. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Black-headed Jay. Photo © 2010 by Alan Covert.

Day 23 - February 16, Tuesday: Pangot to Delhi

The full day was occupied by the long drive to Delhi, and no birds of note were sighted. After supper the group departed for the airport for an early a.m. departure.

While the group was exploring the Himalayan foothills I had time to poke around in Delhi. I took a couple of videos of urban life while I wandered.

Here is the first, of a groom preparing for his ceremonial ride to the house of his bride's family.

Here is the second, showing the wonders of traffic flow in Noida, Delhi.

Final Bird Trip List = 341 species

Note: Our complete post-trip bird trip lists (in PDF format) are available for download
India - 2010 - Detailed Bird Trip List by Day
India - 2010 - Detailed Bird Trip List by Species
India - 2010 - Concise Bird Trip List

Non-Bird Trip Lists

Mammals:

Indian Flying Fox (Pteropus giganteus)
Rhesus Macaque (Macaca mulatta)
Southern Plains Gray Langur (Semnopithecus dussumieri)
Golden Jackal (Canis aureus)
Indian Fox (Vulpes bengalensis)
Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes)
Sloth Bear (Melursus ursinus)
Himalayan Palm Civet (Paguma larvata)
Ruddy Mongoose (Herpestes smithii)
Tiger (Panthera tigris)
Jungle Cat (Felis chaus)
Ganges River Dolphin (Platanista gangetica gangetica)
Asian Elephant (Elephas maximus)
Indian Wild Boar (Sus scrofa)
Cheetal / Spotted Deer (Axis axis)
Barasingha / Swamp Deer (Cervus duvauceli)
Sambar (Cervus unicolor)
Barking Deer / Munjtac (Muntiacus muntjak)
Nilgai (Boselaphus tragocamelus)
Chinkara / Indian Gazelle (Gazellae bennettii)
Blackbuck (Antilope cervicapra)
Five-striped Palm Squirrel (Funambulus pennantii)
House Mouse (Mus musculus)
Indian Hare / Blacknaped Hare (Lepus nigricollis)

Herptiles:

Gharial (Fish-eating Crocodile) (Gavialis gangeticus)
Marsh Crocodile (Marsh Mugger) (Crocodylus palustris)
Indian Soft-shelled Turtle (Aspideretes gangeticus)
Water monitor (Varanus salvator)
"Water" Snake (sp.?)

End of Report

(click here for Part 1)
(click here for Part 2)

Many other photos of our Indian trip can be found here, here, and here.

Blake Maybank, Nova Scotia, Canada
organiser, Maritimes Nature Travel Club
author, "Birding Sites of Nova Scotia"
webmaster, Birding Trip Reports from North & South America