I had previously visited Cuba three times, twice as organiser of tours for the Maritimes Nature Travel Club, but each of the trips had been to eastern Cuba. We had long wished to explore western Cuba with Arturo as our guide, but it had heretofore not been possible to arrange such an expedition. Suddenly it was possible, and in very short order Arturo and I had settled on a workable itinerary, and I had ascertained that there was considerable interest among our group for a western Cuba trip.

Jayne was the conduit for tour payments, as well as obtaining air tickets. This latter chore was not easy, as nearly all flights between Canada/Europe and Cuba in winter are charter flights, and most seats are reserved for travellers booking package vacations to coastal resorts. The number of “seat-only” seats is limited, and those that were available had to be booked as early as the preceding June. Despite the need to make an early financial commitment to the trip we quickly filled the 16 available spots, and had a number of people on the waiting list.

Itinerary:

•          February 14-17, Birding in Zapata Peninsula

•          February 18. Depart for Camaguey. Accommodation at Hotel Puerto Principe.

•          February 19. Birding in La Belén, Sierra de Najasa.

•          February 20 Departure in the morning to Cayo Coco. Accommodation at Hotel Tryp Cayo Coco.

•          February 21. Birding in Cayo Guillermo and Cayo Coco.

•          February 22 Drive to Cayo Coco airport for Aerocaribbean morning flight to Havana. Transfer to Hotel Mirador de San Diego in San Diego los Baños.

•          February 23. Morning birding in Parque Nacional La Güira. Afternoon departure for María la Gorda. Drive west to Guanahacabibes National Park. Three nights stay at Maria La Gorda.

•          February 24-25. Peninsula de Guanahacabibes

•          February 26. Depart for Historic Havana. Walking tour of Old Havana, visiting the most important squares and historical sites. Accommodation at Hotel Telégrafo.

•          February 27 Transfer to Varadero.

Print References:

Field Guide to the Birds of Cuba  by Orlando Garrido and Arturo Kirkconnell
Moon Handbooks: Cuba by Christopher P. Baker
A Guide to the Birds of the West Indies edited by Herbert A. Raffaele
Lonely Planet Cuba Guide
Insight Cuba Guide

The weather was fair throughout our stay, though we experienced the arrival of at least three “cold fronts”, which did indeed cause the thermometer to dip (once to 12°C), and propelled modest breezes (max 20-30 kph), which Arturo considered to be “strong” winds. That was a laughable notion for those of us who live in Nova Scotia, but most Cuban birds agreed with Arturo, and kept a much lower profile during the passage of the fronts. Temperatures were comfortable every day (25 °C), but hotter on Cayo Coco, where it approached 30°. There was almost no precipitation, just a couple of the briefest of showers, of no impediment whatsoever.

Health Matters:

Daily Accounts:

Our drive from the airport to Playa Girón took roughly three hours, on paved roads of acceptable quality: they were certainly no worse than many of the roads we’d left behind in Canada. A scattering of birds was noted en route, including the only Glossy Ibis (seen by me) and Northern Rough-winged Swallow (seen by Arturo and a few others) of the trip.

We arrived at our hotel, the Hotel Playa Girón, before dark, and the keenest did a bit of birding before supper. Playa Girón lies on the eastern shore of the Bahia de Cochinos (The Bay of Pigs), and the hotel is one of only two along the bay’s shores, the other being in Playa Largo. Each is a one-star (ie, basic) hotel, but ours had the advantage of location to several key birding sites, as well as being an all-inclusive hotel, so at least we’d have free drinks should the basic facilities prove too stressful.

The hotel had suffered considerable wind and flood damage from a hurricane (of which five have hit Cuba in the past three years), but repairs had been effected on enough rooms to house our group of 17, and while the rooms were unquestionably basic, they were clean, with (mostly) hot water, and air conditioning. The meals were limited in variety, but they filled the holes, and there was rum and beer – our group was content. On our way back to the rooms after dinner, Don spied a Short-eared Owl, the only trip sighting, and a good omen of things to come.

Feb. 14 - Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata - Playa Girón; Bermeja; La Cuchilla

Thus began our first full day of birding and, as I later discovered, Arturo was a bit worried. He had not previously led such a large group (17 congenial participants), and he was also hoping that there would not be many (or any) anxious twitchers, as he has considerable experience with the “species”, mostly (due to U.S. embargo) originating from Britain and Europe (though a few from Canada). But all turned out well. Arturo quickly learned that while we were all curious and hopeful, no one of us was obnoxiously keen or impatient. And, remarkably, we pretty much all managed to see or hear nearly all the birds presented to us, with a percentage success rate that was the equal of smaller groups with hard-core itineraries (ie, shorter trips and longer days afield).

But that’s why we enjoy travelling together: less stress, and a pace commensurate with the goal of having a vacation.

On to the day’s adventures. We first met Franc (Francisco Medina) (e-mail), the #2 man employed by Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata. He accompanied us because, by Cuban law, everyone visiting any Cuban National Park is supposed to have the appropriate permits, and be accompanied by a staff member. And as we were a large group Frank personally took on the responsibility rather than delegating. He was bilingual, personable, and of great assistance during our stay in the Zapata area. And when you have park staff with you, not only do you avoid the unpleasantness that might arise should you be prosecuted for breaking Cuba law, you also obtain valuable local knowledge, and access to areas that might otherwise be closed.

Our morning was spent at the Refugio Bermeja, where we met another park employee, Orlando, who had salted some trails with rice, in order to lure Quail-Doves into view. But before we started on the forest trails we enjoyed numerous views of a pair of Fernandina’s Flickers, the first species on offer once we stepped off the bus. Shortly thereafter, thanks to Orlando’s ricing efforts, we were enjoying views of Blue-fronted and Gray-headed Quail-Doves – this was starting to seem all too easy. We continued hiking forest trails, with Arturo (aided by Orlando) seeking out local specialty birds, and encouraging us to not spend (ie, waste) time looking for species (such as Cuban Tody) that are widespread, and would be encountered on other days. This is a sound strategy, though it does require a discipline that is occasionally wanting. And so we were also able to see Bare-legged Owl, Key West Quail-Dove, Greater Antillean Nightjar, Cuban Parakeet, and Cuban Parrot.

We lunched at the hotel, birded (or lazed) around the resort in the heat of early afternoon, then made another foray in late afternoon, this time to La Cuchilla, where we awaited the Red-shouldered Blackbird, a very scarce Cuban endemic. A pair was known to roost in this section of the marsh, and true to our good fortune we enjoyed fine views (and sounds) of the male. There was also a distant fly-by by large flocks of West Indian Whistling-Ducks, but this was not a satisfactory view for those who needed it for a life species.

After supper Arturo took us owling around the resort, as he knew that Stygian Owls often nest in the area, and he efficiently located a pair, which were spotlighted briefly for our study.

Our group’s first day total was 72 species, seen and/or heard. This was starting out a great trip.

Feb. 15 - Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata - Playa Girón; La Cuchilla; La Salinas refuge; Bermaja

We had been joined by our errant couple, and so we decided upon a morning return trip to La Cuchilla, though the blackbirds did not cooperate. Arturo had also been hoping for Gundlach’s Hawk, but there was none to be seen. A few caught a sighting of a Least Bittern, which also called. Soaring Wood Storks were much appreciated.

In the afternoon we drove to the western side of the Bay of Pigs, to La Salinas Wildlife Refuge, an area of former salt ponds, now a favourite habitat for shorebirds, waders, and other birds. Highlights of the afternoon included American Flamingos, American White Pelicans, Cuba Black-Hawk, Roseate Spoonbills, and various shorebirds, including a vagrant Dunlin.

Feb 16 - Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata - Playa Girón; Zapata Swamp (Rio Hatiguanico); La Boca

In the morning we drove north on the peninsula, left the park, and continued to Highway A1, where we headed west, but soon left the highway, heading south back into the Zapata Swamp and the park. We were headed for a reliable spot for Zapata Wren, and with Frank wielding a mean machete in front of the bus we managed to negotiate a narrow dyke road to a spot within 2 km of our destination. From there we walked the dyke road through the swamp, with birds more often heard (Sora, King Rail, Spotted Rail) than seen. We heard six or seven singing Zapata Wrens before finally seeing one perched in view, an exciting sight. Zapata Sparrows, by contrast, were less obliging, and we neither heard nor saw any, but Arturo was unconcerned, as the species is more common on Cayo Coco. We had hoped to take an hour’s boat excursion on the Rio Hatiguanico, but there was a mix-up in the bookings – a tour that preceded our arrival had only booked one boat, but had brought enough passengers to fill all three available craft, so there were none present for us. But we were unconcerned, and we birded forested sections of the swamp on our way out, and were rewarded with a Gundlach’s Hawk flying above the group.

As we headed back to Playa Girón we stopped at La Boca, where there is a crocodile “farm”, but we merely birded the site’s exterior water features, and enjoyed Northern Jacana, Purple Gallinules, and Cuban Crows. We had a nice late lunch at Punta Perdiz, where some saw soaring Broad-winged Hawks, of the local Cuban sub-species.

Back at the Hotel we met a small birding group of four from western Canada, and whose guide seemed somewhat less knowledgeable and efficient than Arturo. And they were birding without park permits. Naughty. Their species list was more spartan than ours, but Arturo graciously showed them the Stygian Owl that evening, and some of our group went for a repeat viewing.

Feb. 17 - Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata - Playa Largo; Bermaja

We checked out of the hotel (after generous tips to the kitchen staff for organising early breakfasts for us during our stay), and made two brief stops, at Playa Largo (another unsuccessful Bee Hummingbird stake-out – “Later”), and La Boca. We then spent the rest of the day on the long drive to Camaguey, stopping en route for a wonderful lunch in the colonial city of Sancti Spiritus, at a wonderful restaurant (La Palmares) known to our driver Luiz. Great calamari and sangria. A Snail Kite was the best “drive-by” bird of the day (though missed by some), but everyone saw the Cave Swallows, for which we made a special stop..

Feb. 19 - Camaguey Province

We were in Camaguey Province for the express purpose of observing three Cuban endemic species: Cuban Palm-Crow, Giant Kingbird, and Plain Pigeon. En route to our first stop, before dawn, Don saw an Antillean Nighthawk, while Arturo countered with a Barn Owl. The rest of us might have been napping. With the arrival of daylight Arturo again showed his mettle, showing all three specialty birds to us before 0900. We also enjoyed repeat looks at Cuban Parakeets and Parrots, as well as Fernandina’s Flickers.

Later that morning we visited, at random, a remote rural school, where we gave school and home supplies to the teachers to distribute to the elementary school students. We were invited into the classroom where we exchanged questions and answers with the students, and they performed a patriotic song for us. (To view a video of this event, click here).  A moving moment, and one of the highlights of the trip. At another village we left medical supplies at the local clinic.

As we had succeeded in viewing the “target” species we spent some time in a vain (and admittedly unlikely) search for Masked Duck. We returned to Camaguey.  To view a video of a Camaguey street scene, click here.

Feb. 20 - Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo

Following breakfast we were on the road to Cayo Coco, a two-to-three hour drive, including productive stops along the lengthy causeway linking the island to the mainland of Cuba. We checked into our hotel, and Arturo was surprised to learn that a local guide had been hired, as CubaNatura had mistakenly thought we’d be visiting the local national park, and would require an accredited guide. The local guide was Paulino Delgado (e-mail), who knows the local area very well (as does Arturo), is bilingual (as is Arturo), and is companionable (ditto). Still, having two guides for the price of one didn’t really hurt, and on our first afternoon, covering both parts of Cayo Coco, and Cayo Guillermo, we saw most of the local specialites (Zapata Sparrow, Oriente Warbler, Cuban Gnatcatcher), missing only Bahama Mockingbird (which we might have heard).

The mangroves around the resort were productive, as was a wet area at the entrance to Hotel Cayo Coco, where we saw stationary West Indian Whistling-Ducks, and shorebirds. With the numerous shorebirds, waders, gulls, and terns, we had an 80-species day.

Feb. 21 - Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo; Cayo Paredón Grande

We encountered the trip’s first stumbling block early in the day when, at the eastern end of Cayo Coco, we were unable to drive the bus across the crumbling remnants of the causeway linking the island with Cayo Paredón Grande. Our destination was to have been the eastern end of this second cayo, the only accessible site in Cuba for the Thick-billed Vireo, but while a compact vehicle could likely still negotiate the damaged causeway (another hurricane to blame), we dared not risk our bus, though Luiz did seem to contemplate an attempt.

So, with the vireo out of play, we enjoyed the sight of a faithful adult Lesser Black-backed Gull in the estuary adjacent the causeway, and later visited some sewage lagoons where we added several species of waterfowl to our trip list. We took a break after lunch, then in the late afternoon returned to the western end of Cayo Guillermo for a second attempt for Bahama Mockingbird, and this time we were successful, though some perseverance was required. It is debateable for how long the Bahama Mockingbirds will persist because, with the development of Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo, and the construction of the long causeway to the main part of Cuba, Northern Mockingbirds have begun colonising the islands in earnest, and they appear to be pushing the Bahama Mockingbirds close to extirpation.

Feb. 22 - Drive from Cayo Coco to San Diego los Baños

This day did not go as planned. We arrived at the Cayo Coco airport in the morning for our charter flight to Havana, but there was no plane on the ground, and none heading our way. The plan had vanished. We patiently waited while Alex confirmed that there likely wouldn’t be a plane for four hours (at least), and we unanimously decided to forego a potentially indeterminate wait, and opted instead to drive with Luiz in the bus to our next destination. He was to drive the bus in any event – we had planned the internal flight to save travel time.

Instead, we enjoyed a long scenic tour of western Cuba, punctuated by a lovely look at a Snail Kite, and another fine lunch in Sancti Spiritus. We arrived at our hotel in San Diego los Baños, in the early evening, and had a fine meal, serenaded by a wonderful live band. Indeed, such serenades were common on our trip – Sancti Cristus, Playa Giron, and later in Maria la Gorda. And each group, however local or modest, had managed to burn amateur CDs of their music, which some of us were happy to purchase.

Feb. 23 - San Diego los Baños; la Güira National Park. Drive to María La Gorda.

We were once again to be accompanied by a local expert Julio César (e-mail). In the morning we had two destinations. First was a mixed farming area outside of San Diego los Baños where, in short order, we saw Cuban Grassquit, as well as wonderful looks at a foraging Giant Kingbird. Cuban Parrots flew over. Next we drove higher, into the lower reaches of the mountains that comprise la Güira National Park  A recent hurricane (Gustav?) had caused considerable destruction of the forests, but enough mature trees remained in a sheltered valley to support several more species of interest, including Cuban Solitaire (easily heard, and eventually seen), Olive-capped Warbler (common within the pine forests, but difficult to photograph), and wonderful looks at the Cuban race of Broad-winged Hawk. Our last stop was to a forest wetland within the ruins of a colonial estate (Hacienda Cortina), where cooperative birds included Purple Gallinule, Green Heron, and Common Moorhen: the Louisiana Waterthrushes were slightly less cooperative.

Lunch was back at our hotel, after which we checked out and drove the rest of the afternoon to our resort at María La Gorda, where we arrived just before sunset. Our log cabins were beneath the coastal forest, promising wonderful birding from our porches, and that evening Arturo heard three species of owl calling, including Stygian.

Feb. 24 - María la Gorda; Guanahacabibes

Our second-to-last full day for birding, and we were tense (save Arturo). The trip had been, so far, a roaring success, but none could deny that one of the marquee birds had yet to be seen – the Bee Hummingbird. Was it still too early for them to have established territories? Would the males be singing? Would they be too small/too fast/too elusive to be seen? Ah, the suspense.

Arturo, of course, came up trumps. Before lunch, and obligingly close to our resort, we enjoyed “crippling looks” as they say, but shouldn’t.  And as the site was so handy we could return in small groups to patiently await photographic opportunities. Richard managed to obtain some superb images, which are linked below in the bird trip list section.

Most of the participants made independent return visits to the Bee Hummingbird site, as this species was the highlight of the trip.  I personally enjoyed a private sojourn with the male just inches away, but others had similarly exciting encounters, as Cliff Thornley relates  "At least three of us were within less than an arms length of a foraging male, which glowed in the sunlight, from back, head and gorget in turn, (quite fabulous) and, on a separate day, all of us watched mating flights by a male.  (Observing characteristic behaviour of a species adds substantially to simply getting a good look at the species.)"  

As this was Jim E.’s birthday, we thanked him for sharing his lifer birthday present with the rest of us.

In the afternoon we hiked a trail near the entrance to Guanahacabibes National Park – we were hoping for Ruddy Quail-Dove, but were unsuccessful. There were other birds of note that day, however, including Herring Gull, Plain Pigeon, and cacophonous Cuban Crows around our resort.

Feb. 25 - María la Gorda; Guanahacabibes N.P.

This was a relaxed day, as there were unlikely to be any new speciality species on offer, but we all climbed aboard the bus to explore Guanahacabibes National Park, which occupies most of the Guanahacabibes peninsula, the SW peninsula of Cuba. We picked up our park guide at the entrance gate. His name was Osmani Borrego Fernandez (e-mail), and he was an excellent bilingual guide. He had recently received a gift of a digital camera, and he proudly showed superb shots of Blue-headed Quail-Doves that he’d taken a day earlier near the park headquarters, though the doves kept a low profile when we checked the site.

Regardless, we enjoyed our exploration of the park, as we drove the main access road most of the way to its end. The coastal scenery was spectacular, and faunal highlights included iguana, crocodiles, a very cooperative Cuban Pygmy-Owl, several butterflies and dragonflies, and a flock of 25+ Least Grebes. This latter sighting was especially exciting for Arturo, as it was the largest grouping of the species he had seen in Cuba, and he thought that, given the location and date, these were migrants, and Least Grebes had heretofore always been considered resident on Cuba.

The afternoon was spent in the area around the María la Gorda resort, and this provided the opportunity for some of the group to swim and/or snorkel -- there was rewarding coral close to shore, and the water temperature was quite pleasant.

Feb. 26 - Drive to Havana.

Up early for the six-hour drive to Havana. Lunch in the city, and a wonderful afternoon with Alex as our ever-knowledgeable guide (though some chose to visit the Art Museum).  After our guided tour most returned to the hotel, though some of us wandered the flea market, and others just enjoyed the architecture of the streets.  We stayed at the Telegraphio Hotel, very comfortable, even classy, and close to all the action of Old Havana.  Supper had been arranged for us at La Guarida restaurant, one of the finest in the city – this was done as compensation for the missing airplane at Cayo Coco, and the quality of the meal made the bus trip seem worthwhile.   My only regret was that we did not have longer to explore and enjoy this remarkable city.

Feb. 27 - Transfer to Veradaro airport

All buses transferring passengers between Havana and the Veradero airport stop at the same roadside stop, purportedly for a coffee/restroom break/piña colada/superb view of the countryside, etc. It is simply a last opportunity for Cubans to extract a bit more money from tourists before their departure. It was also a decent spot for a quick bit of birding, with the best bird being a cooperative Red-legged Honeycreeper, which allowed group members who had missed the earlier ephemeral sightings to catch up.

TRIP LISTS:

BIRD LIST (other faunal species below)

Gundlach́s Hawk; Cuban Black-Hawk; Zapata Rail; Gray-fronted Quail-Dove; Blue-headed Quail-Dove; Cuban Parakeet; Bare-legged Owl; Cuban Pygmy-Owl; Bee Hummingbird; Cuban Trogon; Cuban Tody; Cuban Green Woodpecker; Fernandinás Flicker; Giant Kingbird; Zapata Wren; Cuban Solitaire; Cuban Gnatcatcher; Cuban Vireo; Yellow-headed Warbler; Oriente Warbler; Cuban Grassquit; Zapata Sparrow; Red-shouldered Blackbird; and Cuban Blackbird.

Zapata Rail note: this rail (and indeed all rails in the Zapata Swamp) has been impacted by the introduction (in 2000) of catfish into the swamp. Recent surveys have not located the species. Arturo has only seen the bird three times in his life. He and Orlando Garrido are also of the opinion that the rail’s calls are not known, and that purported Zapata Rail recordings are more likely those of Spotted Rail.

Cuban (Hook-billed) Kite; Cuban (American) Kestrel; Cuban (Greater Antillean) Nightjar; Cuban Ivory-billed Woodpecker; Cuban Palm-Crow; Cuban (Eastern) Meadowlark; Cuban (Greater Antillean) Oriole.

Cuban Broad-winged Hawk; Cuban West Indian Woodpecker; Cuban (Northern) Flicker; eastern race of Cuban (Eastern) Meadowlark.

West Indian Whistling-Duck; Scaly-naped Pigeon; Plain Pigeon; Key West Quail-Dove; Cuban Parrot; Great Lizard-Cuckoo; Greater Antillean Nightjar; Antillean Nighthawk; Antillean Palm Swift; Cuban Emerald; West Indian Woodpecker; Cuban Pewee; La Sagra's Flycatcher; Loggerhead Kingbird; Thick-billed Vireo; Cuban Crow; Cuban Martin; Bahama Mockingbird; Red-legged Thrush; Olive-capped Warbler; Western Spindalis; Cuban Bullfinch; Tawny-shouldered Blackbird; Greater Antillean Grackle; and Greater Antillean Oriole.

We observed all but the Scaly-naped Pigeon and Thick-billed Vireo, and only one of our group saw the Antillean Nighthawk.

SPECIES' TRIP LISTS:

BIRD TABLE LEGEND (other faunal species below):

Misses:

Yellow-breasted Crake
Scaly-naped Pigeon
Ruddy Quail-Dove
Thick-billed Vireo
Swainson’s Warbler

Other faunal species:

Herptiles:

Iguana -- photo by Richard Stern
Unidentified Lizard -- photo by Blake Maybank
Unidentified Lizard -- photo by Richard Stern
Cuban Racer (Alsophis cantherigerus) -- photo by Blake Maybank

Leps:

Atala Hairstreak (Eumaeus atala) -- photo by Blake Maybank
Tropical Fritillary (Euptoieta hegesia hegesia) -- photo by Blake Maybank
White Peacock (Anartia jatrophae) -- photo by Blake Maybank
Zebra Heliconian (Heliconius charithonia) -- photo by Blake Maybank
Skipper, perhaps Palmetto Skipper (Euphyes arpa) -- photo by Blake Maybank

Odes:

Great Pondhawk (Erythemis vesiculosa) -- photo by Blake Maybank
female Orthemis (Orthemis sp.) -- photo by Blake Maybank

Other fauna:

Portuguese Man O' War -- photo by Blake Maybank
Termite nest -- photo by Blake Maybank