1 - 13 April 2000

by Blake Maybank

Yellow-faced Grassquit, an attractive bird, pleasantly common throughout Cuba.
photo © Ken McKenna, 2000

In April 2000, the Nova Scotia Bird Society undertook a tour of the Cuba Oriente, the eastern mountains of Cuba. The trip was run as a fund-raiser, and more than $2000 was raised for the Society.  Our group of 12 assembled at the Halifax International Airport on the evening of March 31^st. The Air Transat flight left on time, and arrived punctually in Holguin, Cuba, just over four hours later. Customs was a smooth procedure, all the baggage dutifully appeared, and we were on our buses to the hotel within an hour of arrival. Just over 60 minutes later we arrived at our Cuban base of operations, the Las Brisas resort in Guardalavaca.

[Note: For further background on the Guardalavaca area, please read my report from December 1998 (click here).  I've updated the following background information from that report.]

INDEX OF PHOTOGRAPHS:

• Yellow-faced Grassquit
• Cuban Green Woodpecker
• Eastern Kingbird
• Mangrove Cuckoo
• Las Brisas Resort
• Lunch beside the Rio Nibujonen
• El Yunqué in the mist
• Cuban Trogan
• Mad McKay scales the heights
• Birding along the Rio Toa road
• Gray Kingbird
• Snail Kite
• Images of El Saltón
• Cuban Tody
• Bahia de Naranjo
• La Sagra's Flycatcher
• Cape May Warbler & Northern Parula
• Cuban (Greater Antillean) Nightjar chicks
• It's Not Easy Being Green
• The Nova Scotia Bird Society tour -- group photo

1)  --  Moon Handbooks: Cuba by Christopher P. Baker. Published by Moon Travel Handbooks.  The BEST Guidebook available.

2)  --  Field Guide to the Birds of Cuba  by Orlando H. Garrido, Arturo Kirkconnell, Roman F. Company.  Very useful.

3)  -- "A Guide to the Birds of the West Indies", 1998, by Herbert Raffaele, et al., published by Princeton University Press.  Excellent resource, although not a pocket guide.  It fit in my backpack, though, and accompanied us on our outings. 
This book now supercedes the following old standby...

4)  -- "A Field Guide to the Birds of the West Indies", by Bond, (James Bond), published by Houghton Mifflin.  A useful, but not essential, back-up reference.

Health:

We had no problems with food or water, and at all our hotels could drink safely from the taps.  No particular vaccinations or inoculations were required.

Pests:

We encountered few mosquitoes, and no chiggers.

Weather:

The temperature was in the high 20's to low 30's every day, and cooler in the evening.  Breezes along the coast were frequent, but as the drought persisted, we only had one heavy rain shower during our stay.

Safety:

We had no experience with big-city Cuban life, but in the countryside, and around the resorts in which we stayed, we experienced no problems at all.  There was essentially no begging, although in the Guardalavaca area there were some people willing to sell you cigars or sea-shells, but they weren't pushy or obnoxious.  By contrast, most people were friendly and curious.  None of us ever felt at risk.  We kept our valuables locked in our hotel-room safe, and had no troubles.

Money:

Most of the in-country tours can be paid for with credit cards, as can expenses incurred through hotels.  Getting more money from the local bank presented no difficulty.  U.S. dollars are the currency of choice in-country.  You cannot use any credit cards linked with U.S. banks, nor anything connected to American Express, including their travellers cheques.  Outside hotels it's generally cash only.

Other Recommendations:

Canadians are very much in the habit of bringing items into Cuba which are in short supply locally, and distributing them as tips to staff, or simply giving them to families or people one encounters as one roams the countryside.  T-shirts and baseball caps are frequently left behind, but children's clothing is much desired, as are school supplies (pencils, crayons, pens, paper), soap and toiletries, tampons, etc.  Even our empty plastic water bottles were welcome.  From within the hotels the extent of the shortages in the countryside isn't especially obvious, but it is real.  Take into the country as much as will fit in your suitcases, and replace it for the homeward trip with coffee, artwork, cigars, and rum.  And wonderful memories.  It seems a fair trade.

We birded in the Guardalavaca area in the morning, and I worked with the Cuban in-tourist agency Cubanacan that afternoon regarding our in-country excursions we had previously arranged. I learned to my dismay that our planned overnight trip to Pinares de Mayarí would not be possible due to a local water shortage (Cuba was in a prolonged (10 month-long) drought). So, with the group's approval, I rejigged our schedule in order to continue to have two overnight trips in the first week, as one of our participants could only stay for a single week. The reorganisation meant, however, a busier than intended first few days.

In the meantime we had the Guardalavaca area to explore, and we revisited a small marsh SW of the town, and discovered rather wanting for water, although we did see a Purple Gallinule and a King Rail, and there were numerous herons and egrets about. During the course of our stay the marsh grew increasingly dry, until the water completely evaporated -- we nick-named the site the "Vanishing Marsh."

There is a large wooded ravine and mangrove to the immediate west of the village of Guardalavaca, which is protected as a small national park, due to some rare plants. Perhaps due to the drought, this was a major concentration spot for resident and overwintering birds, and repeated visits there resulted in numerous sightings, including Cuban Green Woodpecker, Worm-eating Warblers, our first of three intimate looks at a confiding Mangrove Cuckoo, and a small colony of Yellow-crowned Night-Herons. And there were always many wood warblers to attract our attention.

                    Cuban Woodpecker                                                                                                  Eastern Kingbird
                             photo © Ken McKenna, 2000                                                                                 photo © Ken McKenna, 2000

A Mangrove Cuckoo forgetting to skulk
photo © Ken McKenna, 2000

Just to the east of the Las Brisas resort was a small mangrove, bisected by a gravel path, and a site just south of the path became known to us as "The Warbler Hole", wherein, especially in the two hours before dusk, many warblers could be seen flycatching for insects, including a single Oriente Warbler, who showed himself to all that were interested, with the frustrating exception of Pat, who was required to return to "The Hole" repeatedly each evening, before finally connecting with the warbler on the second last night.

This was also the spot where a few overwintering Least and Solitary Sandpipers could be seen any time of day.

The mangrove itself was a night roost for several hundred egrets and herons, mostly Cattle Egrets, but also including Great and Snowy Egrets, Yellow-crowned Night-Herons, and Little Blue Herons. We gathered on my balcony most evenings with rum drinks in hand, to watch the evening arrival flight, and see what else might be around. In this manner we also had balcony sightings of West Indian Whistling-Ducks, a Crested Caracara, and a Peregrine Falcon.

Other birds in the Guardalavaca area were noted in the following areas: along the beach to the east of the resort; in the water supply reservoir for the town; and along a limestone-surfaced trail that headed east along the coast, a path we called "The Coral Trail". This latter trail was quieter than my previous visit one year earlier, likely because of the drought.

Playa Guardalavaca -- Bird Sightings

31 March - 13 April 2000

LEGEND

# days = number of days a species was encountered.
Max = maximum daily count for species in Playa Guardalavaca.
D = species was seen/assumed to be present daily.
 

COMMON NAME	SCIENTIFIC NAME	# days	Max	COMMENTS
Least Grebe	Tachybaptus dominicus	D	9	At Reservoir
Brown Pelican	Pelecanus occidentalis	4	1	-
West Indian Whistling-Duck	Dendrocygna arborea	2	4	-
Ruddy Duck	Oxyura jamaicensis	D	10	At Reservoir
Tricolored Heron	Egretta tricolor	4	2	-
Little Blue Heron	Egretta caerulea	4	4	-
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula	D	30	-
Great Egret	Ardea alba	4	3	-
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis	D	200	-
Green Heron	Butorides virescens	5	5	-
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron	Nyctanassa violacea	D	10	-
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura	D	50	-
Crested Caracara	Caracara plancus	1	1	Apr 1, 2000, fly-by
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius	D	4	-
Peregrine Falcon	Falco peregrinus	3	1	-
King Rail	Rallus elegans	1	1	Apr 1, 2000
Purple Gallinule	Porphyrio martinicus	1	1	Apr 1, 2000
Common Moorhen	Gallinula chloropus	D	4	-
American Coot	Fulica americana	D	5	At Reservoir
Greater Yellowlegs	Tringa melanoleuca	3	1	-
Solitary Sandpiper	Tringa solitaria	D	3	-
Spotted Sandpiper	Tringa macularia	D	3	-
Ruddy Turnstone	Arenaria interpres	2	13	-
Least Sandpiper	Calidris minutilla	D	7	-
Black-necked Stilt	Himantopus mexicanus	D	8	At Reservoir
Semipalmated Plover	Charadrius semipalmatus	1	1	Apr 6, 2000
Killdeer	Charadrius vociferus	D	3	-
Laughing Gull	Larus atricilla	2	1	-
Royal Tern	Sterna maxima	4	2	-
Rock Dove	Columba livia	D	30	-
Mourning Dove	Zenaida macroura	D	50	-
Zenaida Dove	Zenaida aurita	2	8	-
White-winged Dove	Zenaida asiatica	D	4	-
Common Ground-Dove	Columbina passerina	D	10	-
Mangrove Cuckoo	Coccyzus minor	3	1	-
Great Lizard-Cuckoo	Saurothera merlini	3	1	-
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani	D	30	-
Antillean Nighthawk	Chordeiles gundlachii	1	1	Apr 1, 2000
Antillean Palm-Swift	Tachornis phoenicobia	3	2	-
Cuban Emerald	Chlorostilbon ricordii	D	10	-
Belted Kingfisher	Ceryle alcyon	4	2	-
Cuban Green Woodpecker	Xiphidiopicus percussus	3	2	-
Gray Kingbird	Tyrannus dominicensis	D	20	-
Loggerhead Kingbird	Tyrannus caudifasciatus	1	1	Apr 11, 2000
Cuban Vireo	Vireo gundlachii	D	5	-
Black-whiskered Vireo	Vireo altiloquus	D	20	-
Warbling Vireo	Vireo gilvus	2	1	-
Red-legged Thrush	Turdus plumbeus	D	20	-
Gray Catbird	Dumetella carolinensis	2	1	-
Northern Mockingbird	Mimus polyglottos	D	50	-
Bank Swallow	Riparia riparia	1	8	Apr 1, 2000
Barn Swallow	Hirundo rustica	1	1	Apr 1, 2000
Cave Swallow	Hirundo fulva	1	10	Apr 10, 2000
House Sparrow	Passer domesticus	D	50	-
Northern Parula	Parula americana	D	20	-
Yellow Warbler	Dendroica petechia	D	10	-
Cape May Warbler	Dendroica tigrina	D	100	-
Black-throated Blue Warbler	Dendroica caerulescens	D	30	-
Blackburnian Warbler	Dendroica fusca	1	1	Apr 1, 2000
Yellow-throated Warbler	Dendroica dominica	3	1	-
Prairie Warbler	Dendroica discolor	D	8	-
Palm Warbler	Dendroica palmarum	D	10	-
Black-and-white Warbler	Mniotilta varia	D	5	-
American Redstart	Setophaga ruticilla	D	20	-
Worm-eating Warbler	Helmitheros vermivorus	D	2	-
Ovenbird	Seiurus aurocapillus	D	6	-
Northern Waterthrush	Seiurus noveboracensis	D	7	-
Louisiana Waterthrush	Seiurus motacilla	D	3	-
Common Yellowthroat	Geothlypis trichas	D	5	-
Oriente Warbler	Teretistris fornsi	D	1	-
Hooded Warbler	Wilsonia citrina	2	1	-
Stripe-headed Tanager	Spindalis zena	1	2	-
Cuban Grassquit	Tiaris canora	1	1	Apr 8, 2000
Yellow-faced Grassquit	Tiaris olivacea	D	30	-
Indigo Bunting	Passerina cyanea	D	6	-
Painted Bunting	Passerina ciris	D	2	-
Black-cowled Oriole	Icterus dominicensis	3	4	-
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird	Agelaius humeralis	D	15	-
Eastern Meadowlark	Sturnella magna	1	2	-
Cuban Blackbird	Dives atroviolacea	D	20	-
Greater Antillean Grackle	Quiscalus niger	D	100	-

The entire group, less Joanne and Jack, undertook a day-long drive from Guardalavaca to Barracoa, along the coast highway (Joanne and Jack chose to forego the drive, and decided to use a helicopter to visit Barracoa on April 3rd.). It was a very pleasant drive, except for rough roads between Banes and Mayarí, and the ecological devastation around Moa, where there are several nickel mines. In the morning the best sighting was two Limpkins foraging in the open in a ploughed field. The road from Moa to Barracoa, reputed to be bad, was unpaved, but reasonable. We birded (and ate a picnic lunch) along this stretch, and some good sightings included Cuban Crows and Antillean Palm-Swifts.

That evening, before supper, we birded along the Rio Toa, and encountered heavy rain showers, but it was a warm rain. We found an Eastern/Western Wood-Pewee that refused to call, leaving its specific identity a mystery -- either species is very rare in Cuba.

In Barracoa we stayed at the Castillo Hotel, very decent, and with a great view. The food, as throughout our trip, was very good. A local carnival was in progress, and the festivities did not end until dawn, but no-one complained of being unable to sleep -- the air conditioners provided a reasonable substitute for white noise.

Drive from Guardalavaca to Barracoa -- Bird Sightings

2 April 2000
 

COMMON NAME	SCIENTIFIC NAME	# SEEN	SPECIFIC LOCALE
Little Blue Heron	Egretta caerulea	1	Rio Toa
Little Blue Heron	Egretta caerulea	2	-
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula	10	-
Great Blue Heron	Ardea herodias	1	-
Great Egret	Ardea alba	6	-
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis	500	-
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura	100	-
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius	8	-
Limpkin	Aramus guarauna	2	Herrera
Spotted Sandpiper	Tringa macularia	1	Rio Toa
Rock Dove	Columba livia	50	-
White-crowned Pigeon	Columba leucocephala	2	Rio Nibujon
Scaly-naped Pigeon	Columba squamosa	4	Rio Toa
Mourning Dove	Zenaida macroura	100	-
Zenaida Dove	Zenaida aurita	2	Rio Toa
White-winged Dove	Zenaida asiatica	2	Bahia de Taco
Common Ground-Dove	Columbina passerina	12	-
Great Lizard-Cuckoo	Saurothera merlini	1	Rio Toa
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani	6	-
Antillean Palm-Swift	Tachornis phoenicobia	10	Yamanigev
Cuban Emerald	Chlorostilbon ricordii	5	Rio Toa
Belted Kingfisher	Ceryle alcyon	1	Rio Toa
Belted Kingfisher	Ceryle alcyon	1	-
Cuban Woodpecker	Xiphidiopicus percussus	3	Rio Toa
Cuban Woodpecker	Xiphidiopicus percussus	2	Bahia de Taco
Eastern/Western Wood-Pewee	Contopus sp.	1	Rio Toa
Gray Kingbird	Tyrannus dominicensis	30	-
Cuban Crow	Corvus nasicus	3	Punta Gorda
Cuban Vireo	Vireo gundlachii	2	Bahia de Taco
Black-whiskered Vireo	Vireo altiloquus	10	-
Red-legged Thrush	Turdus plumbeus	20	Rio Toa
Northern Mockingbird	Mimus polyglottos	50	-
Cave Swallow	Hirundo fulva	30	Rio Toa
House Sparrow	Passer domesticus	50	-
Northern Parula	Parula americana	3	Rio Toa
Cape May Warbler	Dendroica tigrina	3	Rio Toa
Black-throated Blue Warbler	Dendroica caerulescens	2	Rio Nibujon
Black-throated Blue Warbler	Dendroica caerulescens	2	Rio Toa
Yellow-throated Warbler	Dendroica dominica	1	Rio Nibujon
Palm Warbler	Dendroica palmarum	1	Rio Toa
Black-and-white Warbler	Mniotilta varia	2	Rio Toa
American Redstart	Setophaga ruticilla	3	Rio Toa
American Redstart	Setophaga ruticilla	2	-
Louisiana Waterthrush	Seiurus motacilla	2	Rio Nibujon
Common Yellowthroat	Geothlypis trichas	2	-
Yellow-faced Grassquit	Tiaris olivacea	20	-
Black-cowled Oriole	Icterus dominicensis	8	Rio Toa
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird	Agelaius humeralis	3	-
Eastern Meadowlark	Sturnella magna	20	-
Cuban Blackbird	Dives atroviolacea	4	Rio Toa
Cuban Blackbird	Dives atroviolacea	10	-
Greater Antillean Grackle	Quiscalus niger	10	Rio Toa
Greater Antillean Grackle	Quiscalus niger	200	-

We discovered that a hike up El Yunqué was not practical, as it would require clear skies, and all day (and good fitness).

No clear skies over El Yunqué
photo © Blake Maybank, 2000

Instead, we birded along the road to El Yunqué, and among the many birds we encountered, the highlights were very close looks at Cuban Trogons, the country's national bird, as well as some White-collared Swifts. We saw many Green Woodpeckers, including a couple of nests, and there were several more Cuban Crows. Scaly-naped Pigeons were also a good find.

Later in the morning, we visited a "typical" Cuban farm, the same site visited by the typical helicopter tours to Barracoa (we were the first group to drive to Barracoa along the north shore in more than two years).

         Mad McKay attempts to secure some coconuts.                                                                            Birding along the Rio Toa road.

As we were walking out we passed Joanne & Jack and their group who were being driven in to the farm. We had a lunch (slightly delayed) at a fine site beside the Rio Toa, where helicopter participants take a boat ride on the river. We enjoyed our roast suckling pig, and saw a West Indian Woodpecker, the only one of the trip.

We drove back to Guardalavaca in the p.m., arriving around suppertime, stopping en route at an intriguing-looking small lake, which turned out to be almost empty of birdlife..

We had a comfortable mini-van from Cubanacan for this trip; they also supplied a driver, and a bilingual guide, Sonia Valdés, who did a wonderful job.

3 April 2000 Bird Sightings

El Yunque Road
 

COMMON NAME	SCIENTIFIC NAME	# SEEN
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura	10
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius	2
Peregrine Falcon	Falco peregrinus	1
White-crowned Pigeon	Columba leucocephala	2
Scaly-naped Pigeon	Columba squamosa	2
Mourning Dove	Zenaida macroura	80
Zenaida Dove	Zenaida aurita	2
White-winged Dove	Zenaida asiatica	2
Common Ground-Dove	Columbina passerina	10
Great Lizard-Cuckoo	Saurothera merlini	1
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani	7
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris	2
Cuban Emerald	Chlorostilbon ricordii	15
Cuban Trogon	Priotelus temnurus	2
Belted Kingfisher	Ceryle alcyon	2
Cuban Woodpecker	Xiphidiopicus percussus	10
Eastern Kingbird	Tyrannus tyrannus	2
Gray Kingbird	Tyrannus dominicensis	20
Cuban Crow	Corvus nasicus	6
Black-whiskered Vireo	Vireo altiloquus	30
Red-legged Thrush	Turdus plumbeus	40
Northern Parula	Parula americana	3
Black-throated Blue Warbler	Dendroica caerulescens	3
Palm Warbler	Dendroica palmarum	3
Black-and-white Warbler	Mniotilta varia	1
American Redstart	Setophaga ruticilla	12
Yellow-faced Grassquit	Tiaris olivacea	20
Black-cowled Oriole	Icterus dominicensis	6
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird	Agelaius humeralis	1
Cuban Blackbird	Dives atroviolacea	10
Greater Antillean Grackle	Quiscalus niger	200

Rio Toa (Lunch Stop)
 

COMMON NAME	SCIENTIFIC NAME	# SEEN
Cuban Woodpecker	Xiphidiopicus percussus	2
West Indian Woodpecker	Melanerpes superciliaris	1

Drive from Barracoa to Guardalavaca
 

COMMON NAME	SCIENTIFIC NAME	# SEEN
Pied-billed Grebe	Podilymbus podiceps	2
Ruddy Duck	Oxyura jamaicensis	1
Little Blue Heron	Egretta caerulea	2
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula	5
Great Blue Heron	Ardea herodias	2
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis	300
Green Heron	Butorides virescens	3
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron	Nyctanassa violacea	1
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura	100
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius	10
American Coot	Fulica americana	4
Spotted Sandpiper	Tringa macularia	4
Killdeer	Charadrius vociferus	2
Rock Dove	Columba livia	50
Mourning Dove	Zenaida macroura	100
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani	13
Gray Kingbird	Tyrannus dominicensis	20
Black-whiskered Vireo	Vireo altiloquus	5
Red-legged Thrush	Turdus plumbeus	20
Northern Mockingbird	Mimus polyglottos	15
Cave Swallow	Hirundo fulva	50
House Sparrow	Passer domesticus	30
Black-cowled Oriole	Icterus dominicensis	4
Greater Antillean Grackle	Quiscalus niger	100

We were up early for the drive to El Saltón. We happened upon a great roadside marsh in a rice field just north of Cauto Christo, filled with birds (we stopped there on our way back, as well). There were many herons and egrets, and numerous Northern Jacanas and Black-necked Stilts, but the prize was two immature Snail Kites that gave a great show, including the capture and dispatch of several snails.

We were in El Saltón for lunch, and met with Ricardo Sosa, who spent the afternoon, evening, and following morning with us. He was excellent, as usual. Everyone enjoyed the resort, the lodge was in fine shape, and the meals were very good.

                                The Waterfall at El Saltón.                                                                        Birding the hills above El Saltón

We had both Bare-legged Owls and Cuban Pygmy-Owls here, and part of our group who left the afternoon hike early had a Grundlach's Hawk on the way back to the resort. Other birds here the group enjoyed included Ruddy Quail-Dove, Red-legged Honeycreeper, Cuban Pewee, (Cuban) Eastern Meadowlark, many Cuban Grassquits, N. Rough-winged Swallow, Cuban Bullfinch, and my favourite Caribbean bird of all, the Cuban Tody.

We birded the hills around El Saltón in the morning, and had a fine roast pig luncheon beside the waterfall before we left for Guardalavaca.

We arrived in mid-to-late afternoon in Guardalavaca. As before, Cubanacan supplied the driver, and our guide this time was Raoul, who was also very good.

4-5 April Bird Sightings

El Saltón

Afternoon and evening of April 4^th
Morning of April 5th
 

COMMON NAME	SCIENTIFIC NAME	# OBSERVED
		4 April	5 April
Least Grebe	Tachybaptus dominicus	-	1
Little Blue Heron	Egretta caerulea	-	2
Green Heron	Butorides virescens	-	1
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron	Nyctanassa violacea	2	-
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura	5	10
Red-tailed Hawk	Buteo jamaicensis	3	1
Gundlach's Hawk	Accipiter gundlachi	1	-
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius	4	3
Peregrine Falcon	Falco peregrinus	-	1
Purple Gallinule	Porphyrio martinicus	-	1
Killdeer	Charadrius vociferus	2	-
Rock Dove	Columba livia	20	20
Scaly-naped Pigeon	Columba squamosa	-	2
Mourning Dove	Zenaida macroura	40	20
Zenaida Dove	Zenaida aurita	-	1
White-winged Dove	Zenaida asiatica	2	10
Common Ground-Dove	Columbina passerina	10	10
Ruddy Quail-Dove	Geotrygon montana	-	4
Great Lizard-Cuckoo	Saurothera merlini	4	2
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani	20	20
Bare-legged Owl	Otus lawrencii	2	-
Cuban Pygmy-Owl	Glaucidium siju	2	3
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris	1	-
Antillean Palm-Swift	Tachornis phoenicobia	10	-
Cuban Emerald	Chlorostilbon ricordii	20	10
Belted Kingfisher	Ceryle alcyon	1	1
Cuban Tody	Todus multicolor	3	5
Cuban Woodpecker	Xiphidiopicus percussus	2	5
Northern Flicker	Colaptes auratus	-	2
Cuban Pewee	Contopus caribaeus	-	3
Eastern Kingbird	Tyrannus tyrannus	2	-
Gray Kingbird	Tyrannus dominicensis	10	10
Loggerhead Kingbird	Tyrannus caudifasciatus	4	4
Black-whiskered Vireo	Vireo altiloquus	30	50
Red-legged Thrush	Turdus plumbeus	50	50
Northern Mockingbird	Mimus polyglottos	10	-
N. Rough-winged Swallow	Stelgidopteryx serripennis	-	5
Cliff Swallow	Hirundo pyrrhonota	20	-
Cave Swallow	Hirundo fulva	-	1
Northern Parula	Parula americana	3	5
Yellow Warbler	Dendroica petechia	-	1
Cape May Warbler	Dendroica tigrina	1	7
Black-throated Blue Warbler	Dendroica caerulescens	6	6
Prairie Warbler	Dendroica discolor	-	1
Palm Warbler	Dendroica palmarum	1	3
Black-and-white Warbler	Mniotilta varia	2	1
American Redstart	Setophaga ruticilla	4	10
Worm-eating Warbler	Helmitheros vermivorus	-	1
Ovenbird	Seiurus aurocapillus	-	1
Common Yellowthroat	Geothlypis trichas	-	5
Stripe-headed Tanager	Spindalis zena	5	6
Red-legged Honeycreeper	Cyanerpes cyaneus	2	4
Cuban Bullfinch	Melopyrrha nigra	1	10
Cuban Grassquit	Tiaris canora	2	12
Yellow-faced Grassquit	Tiaris olivacea	10	10
Black-cowled Oriole	Icterus dominicensis	1	2
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird	Agelaius humeralis	5	10
Eastern Meadowlark	Sturnella magna	4	6
Cuban Blackbird	Dives atroviolacea	20	20
Greater Antillean Grackle	Quiscalus niger	50	100
Shiny Cowbird	Molothrus bonariensis	1	-

ENROUTE Between Guardalavaca and El Saltón (not including Cauto Christo sightings)

4 April 2000 - to El Saltón (morning)
5 April 2000 - fom El Saltón (afternoon)
 

COMMON NAME	SCIENTIFIC NAME	# OBSERVED
		4 April	5 April
Great Egret	Ardea alba	9	-
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis	250	300
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura	80	100
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius	6	4
Limpkin	Aramus guarauna	1	-
Rock Dove	Columba livia	40	20
Mourning Dove	Zenaida macroura	60	50
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani	20	10
Gray Kingbird	Tyrannus dominicensis	40	40
Northern Mockingbird	Mimus polyglottos	20	30
Greater Antillean Grackle	Quiscalus niger	250	200

Cauto Christo

Mid-morning of April 4^th , mid afternoon of April 5^th.
 

COMMON NAME	SCIENTIFIC NAME	# OBSERVED
		4 April	5 April
Pied-billed Grebe	Podilymbus podiceps	3	2
Tricolored Heron	Egretta tricolor	1	2
Little Blue Heron	Egretta caerulea	2	2
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula	10	30
Great Blue Heron	Ardea herodias	1	2
Great Egret	Ardea alba	1	2
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis	50	50
Green Heron	Butorides virescens	10	15
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura	30	30
Snail Kite	Rostrhamus sociabilis	2	1
Northern Jacana	Jacana spinosa	20	10
Greater Yellowlegs	Tringa melanoleuca	2	-
Lesser Yellowlegs	Tringa flavipes	5	2
Solitary Sandpiper	Tringa solitaria	1	-
Least Sandpiper	Calidris minutilla	12	-
Black-necked Stilt	Himantopus mexicanus	35	35
Killdeer	Charadrius vociferus	6	-
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani	5	-
Belted Kingfisher	Ceryle alcyon	1	-
Palm Warbler	Dendroica palmarum	1	-
Yellow-faced Grassquit	Tiaris olivacea	5	-
Eastern Meadowlark	Sturnella magna	2	-

We recuperated in Guardalavaca, and birded locally. Some of the group began discovering the other attractions of the resort, including the great snorkeling, and horse-back riding. Others continued birding.

Some of us cycled to the nearby Playa Esmerelda, at the eastern mouth of the Parc Nacional Bahia De Naranjo. This took an hour, and others in the group took a taxi there and back. There was an interpretive nature trail, but they were trying to charge $8.00 per person, which was outrageous, so we instead hiked along a bay-side trail leading south, and arrived at a local zoological garden, whose duck ponds held a lot of wildlife. Highlights included Zenaida Doves, another Cuban Tody, and a Cuban Martin.

Parc Nacional Bahia De Naranjo -- Bird Sightings

8 April & 12 April 2000
 

COMMON NAME	SCIENTIFIC NAME	# OBSERVED
		8 April	12 April
Least Grebe	Tachybaptus dominicus	2	6
West Indian Whistling-Duck	Dendrocygna arborea	-	2
Tricolored Heron	Egretta tricolor	1	2
Little Blue Heron	Egretta caerulea	-	11
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula	10	15
Great Blue Heron	Ardea herodias	1	1
Great Egret	Ardea alba	2	2
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis	30	50
Green Heron	Butorides virescens	6	1
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron	Nyctanassa violacea	-	1
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura	50	50
Snail Kite	Rostrhamus sociabilis	-	1
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius	2	1
Common Moorhen	Gallinula chloropus	5	20
American Coot	Fulica americana	4	5
Caribbean Coot	Fulica caribaea	-	-
Greater Yellowlegs	Tringa melanoleuca	1	-
Solitary Sandpiper	Tringa solitaria	2	-
Black-necked Stilt	Himantopus mexicanus	4	40
Killdeer	Charadrius vociferus	-	1
Royal Tern	Sterna maxima	5	6
Rock Dove	Columba livia	10	20
White-crowned Pigeon	Columba leucocephala	-	1
Mourning Dove	Zenaida macroura	25	25
Zenaida Dove	Zenaida aurita	4	-
White-winged Dove	Zenaida asiatica	4	1
Common Ground-Dove	Columbina passerina	20	3
Mangrove Cuckoo	Coccyzus minor	-	1
Great Lizard-Cuckoo	Saurothera merlini	3	2
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani	10	15
Cuban Emerald	Chlorostilbon ricordii	-	6
Cuban Tody	Todus multicolor	1	1
Cuban Woodpecker	Xiphidiopicus percussus	6	3
La Sagra's Flycatcher	Myiarchus sagrae	-	1
Gray Kingbird	Tyrannus dominicensis	15	10
Loggerhead Kingbird	Tyrannus caudifasciatus	2	4
Cuban Vireo	Vireo gundlachii	-	2
Black-whiskered Vireo	Vireo altiloquus	15	20
Red-legged Thrush	Turdus plumbeus	10	10
Northern Mockingbird	Mimus polyglottos	15	10
Cuban Martin	Progne cryptoleuca	1	1
House Sparrow	Passer domesticus	10	15
Northern Parula	Parula americana	5	2
Yellow Warbler	Dendroica petechia	4	2
Magnolia Warbler	Dendroica magnolia	-	1
Cape May Warbler	Dendroica tigrina	5	4
Black-throated Blue Warbler	Dendroica caerulescens	5	6
Prairie Warbler	Dendroica discolor	2	-
Palm Warbler	Dendroica palmarum	4	1
Black-and-white Warbler	Mniotilta varia	2	5
American Redstart	Setophaga ruticilla	5	10
Ovenbird	Seiurus aurocapillus	-	1
Northern Waterthrush	Seiurus noveboracensis	1	1
Louisiana Waterthrush	Seiurus motacilla	1	-
Common Yellowthroat	Geothlypis trichas	2	2
Stripe-headed Tanager	Spindalis zena	6	4
Red-legged Honeycreeper	Cyanerpes cyaneus	-	2
Yellow-faced Grassquit	Tiaris olivacea	10	15
Black-cowled Oriole	Icterus dominicensis	-	2
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird	Agelaius humeralis	5	10
Cuban Blackbird	Dives atroviolacea	10	15
Greater Antillean Grackle	Quiscalus niger	25	25

April 9

Playa Pesquero

We took a taxi minivan to Playa Pesquero, once an undeveloped beach, but now in the throes of hotel development. Regardless, we saw some new birds during our walk along the coral rock coastline (Wilson's Plover, Reddish Egret), and Mad McKay tried to lose his watch, unsuccessfully, as it turned out. Most of the group enjoyed a swim off the incredible beach.

Playa Pesquero -- Bird Sightings

9 April 2000
 

COMMON NAME	SCIENTIFIC NAME	# SEEN
Reddish Egret	Egretta rufescens	1
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura	15
Spotted Sandpiper	Tringa macularia	6
Willet	Catoptrophorus semipalmatus	3
Ruddy Turnstone	Arenaria interpres	6
Black-bellied Plover	Pluvialis squatarola	3
Wilson's Plover	Charadrius wilsonia	3
Killdeer	Charadrius vociferus	2
Rock Dove	Columba livia	20
Mourning Dove	Zenaida macroura	10
White-winged Dove	Zenaida asiatica	4
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani	5
Cuban Emerald	Chlorostilbon ricordii	4
Gray Kingbird	Tyrannus dominicensis	5
Cuban Vireo	Vireo gundlachii	2
Black-whiskered Vireo	Vireo altiloquus	5
Red-legged Thrush	Turdus plumbeus	5
Northern Mockingbird	Mimus polyglottos	5
House Sparrow	Passer domesticus	10
Oriente Warbler	Teretistris fornsi	2
Shiny Cowbird	Molothrus bonariensis	1

A day trip to Pinares de Mayarí.

We left early in the morning, with a new guide (as Raoul was ill). South of Mayarí, going up into the mountains, we stopped at Salto del Guayabo, a virgin rainforest, watched over by a single guardian, Ermelino Napoles, who spoke only Spanish, but had a remarkable knowledge of the natural history of "his" preserve. We learned of the occurrence of some choice species, including Gray-headed and Blue-headed Quail-Doves, and Cuban Solitaires. We were there at the wrong time of day to see the doves, but we heard the Solitaires. There are also Bee Hummingbirds. This is a place to return early in the morning, but would require staying nearby, such as at the lodge at Pinares del Mayarí. There were many other birds on offer, including numerous Oriente Warblers, Olive-capped Warblers, and Cuban Bullfinches. Nearby we had extended views of soaring Broad-winged Hawks, the resident Cuban race.

We then went on to lunch at the Lodge at Pinares, (very good), and then it was off to the research station in the Pinares del Nipé National Park, where we had a great tour on a diverse nature trail, and saw a nesting Cuban (Greater Antillean) Nightjar, and Roger and the guide were lucky enough to quickly glimpse a Bee Hummingbird. Our guide was one of the park's researchers, and they are desperately short of equipment, including camera equipment.  He asked us to photograph the nightjar on the nest, and document the day-old young, for a paper he has in preparation.  We were pleased to do so, and have sent him the images.

There were many Cuban Todys, and we saw La Sagra's Flycatchers and Loggerhead Kingbirds. We learned that there are many other trails in the park, and that the park has a bird list of more than 150 species, as well as many orchids, and other interesting plants. Everyone who went on this trip agreed that several nights should be spent in this area, to properly explore it. We had only a tantalizing glimpse.

We were back to Guardalavaca by dark, wishing that we could have stayed several days.
 

Pinares De Mayarí -- Bird Sightings

10 April 2000
 

COMMON NAME	SCIENTIFIC NAME	# SEEN
Little Blue Heron	Egretta caerulea	1
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula	10
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis	40
Green Heron	Butorides virescens	1
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura	50
Broad-winged Hawk	Buteo platypterus	3
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius	3
Common Moorhen	Gallinula chloropus	1
Killdeer	Charadrius vociferus	3
Rock Dove	Columba livia	15
Scaly-naped Pigeon	Columba squamosa	1
Mourning Dove	Zenaida macroura	25
Common Ground-Dove	Columbina passerina	20
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani	10
Greater Antillean Nightjar	Caprimulgus cubanensis	1 (+2y)
Cuban Emerald	Chlorostilbon ricordii	25
Bee Hummingbird	Mellisuga helenae	1
Cuban Trogon	Priotelus temnurus	2
Cuban Tody	Todus multicolor	15
Northern Flicker	Colaptes auratus	1
Cuban Pewee	Contopus caribaeus	4
La Sagra's Flycatcher	Myiarchus sagrae	4
Gray Kingbird	Tyrannus dominicensis	15
Loggerhead Kingbird	Tyrannus caudifasciatus	3
Cuban Vireo	Vireo gundlachii	3
Black-whiskered Vireo	Vireo altiloquus	20
Cuban Solitaire	Myadestes elisabeth	3
Red-legged Thrush	Turdus plumbeus	20
Northern Mockingbird	Mimus polyglottos	25
House Sparrow	Passer domesticus	10
Cape May Warbler	Dendroica tigrina	6
Black-throated Blue Warbler	Dendroica caerulescens	20
Olive-capped Warbler	Dendroica pityophila	20
Prairie Warbler	Dendroica discolor	1
Palm Warbler	Dendroica palmarum	2
Black-and-white Warbler	Mniotilta varia	1
American Redstart	Setophaga ruticilla	10
Ovenbird	Seiurus aurocapillus	4
Oriente Warbler	Teretistris fornsi	12
Stripe-headed Tanager	Spindalis zena	4
Red-legged Honeycreeper	Cyanerpes cyaneus	6
Cuban Bullfinch	Melopyrrha nigra	20
Cuban Grassquit	Tiaris canora	20
Yellow-faced Grassquit	Tiaris olivacea	50
Black-cowled Oriole	Icterus dominicensis	1
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird	Agelaius humeralis	3
Cuban Blackbird	Dives atroviolacea	10
Greater Antillean Grackle	Quiscalus niger	25

Guardalavaca.

More idle birding.

Some of the group chose to return to Parc Nacional Bahia De Naranjo, where a highlight was an adult Snail Kite, and a family group of West Indian Whistling-Ducks. The ponds held a Caribbean Coot, a lifer for some in the group. The Bird List is above, under April 8.

Guardalavaca.

In the early evening we headed out to the airport, had no trouble checking in, and the flight left on time. We were reluctant to leave, but had enjoyed a splendid trip.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

• The rice field marsh at Cauto Christo, en route to El Saltón, where there was a profusion of birdlife, including Snail Kites (catching and eating snails), Northern Jacanas, Black-necked Stilts, and many Green Herons.

 
• Cuban Trogans, along the road beside the Rio Toa, and later in Pinares.

 
• West Indian Whistling Ducks, first seen from our evening cocktail hour on our hotel balcony, and later a family group in the Bahia Naranjo.

 
• Our personal Oriente Warbler, that appeared nightly in "The Hole" in the mangrove beside our hotel in Guardalavaca. With patience, eventually everyone saw this bird.

 
• A nesting Cuban Nightjar in Pinares de Mayarí, almost invisible upon the ground. We photographed the two day-old chicks in the hand.

 
• Our first taste of Barracoa's cuisine speciality, the Cucuruchu.

 
• Several close looks of Mangrove Cuckoo, normally a skulker.

 
• Wonderful snorkeling in the reefs offshore.

 
• Cuban Todys; several encounters with one of the most beautiful birds in the world.

 
• The generosity and warmth of the Cuban people.

FULL LIST OF SPECIES SEEN from 1 - 13 April 2000
 

COMMON NAME	SCIENTIFIC NAME
Least Grebe	Tachybaptus dominicus
Pied-billed Grebe	Podilymbus podiceps
Brown Pelican	Pelecanus occidentalis
West Indian Whistling-Duck	Dendrocygna arborea
Ruddy Duck	Oxyura jamaicensis
Reddish Egret	Egretta rufescens
Tricolored Heron	Egretta tricolor
Little Blue Heron	Egretta caerulea
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula
Great Blue Heron	Ardea herodias
Great Egret	Ardea alba
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis
Green Heron	Butorides virescens
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron	Nyctanassa violacea
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
Snail Kite	Rostrhamus sociabilis
Broad-winged Hawk	Buteo platypterus
Red-tailed Hawk	Buteo jamaicensis
Gundlach's Hawk	Accipiter gundlachi
Crested Caracara	Caracara plancus
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius
Peregrine Falcon	Falco peregrinus
King Rail	Rallus elegans
Purple Gallinule	Porphyrio martinicus
Common Moorhen	Gallinula chloropus
American Coot	Fulica americana
Caribbean Coot	Fulica caribaea
Limpkin	Aramus guarauna
Northern Jacana	Jacana spinosa
Greater Yellowlegs	Tringa melanoleuca
Lesser Yellowlegs	Tringa flavipes
Solitary Sandpiper	Tringa solitaria
Spotted Sandpiper	Tringa macularia
Willet	Catoptrophorus semipalmatus
Ruddy Turnstone	Arenaria interpres
Least Sandpiper	Calidris minutilla
Black-necked Stilt	Himantopus mexicanus
Black-bellied Plover	Pluvialis squatarola
Semipalmated Plover	Charadrius semipalmatus
Wilson's Plover	Charadrius wilsonia
Killdeer	Charadrius vociferus
Laughing Gull	Larus atricilla
Royal Tern	Sterna maxima
Rock Dove	Columba livia
White-crowned Pigeon	Columba leucocephala
Scaly-naped Pigeon	Columba squamosa
Mourning Dove	Zenaida macroura
Zenaida Dove	Zenaida aurita
White-winged Dove	Zenaida asiatica
Common Ground-Dove	Columbina passerina
Ruddy Quail-Dove	Geotrygon montana
Mangrove Cuckoo	Coccyzus minor
Great Lizard-Cuckoo	Saurothera merlini
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani
Bare-legged Owl	Otus lawrencii
Cuban Pygmy-Owl	Glaucidium siju
Antillean Nighthawk	Chordeiles gundlachii
Greater Antillean Nightjar	Caprimulgus cubanensis
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris
Antillean Palm-Swift	Tachornis phoenicobia
Cuban Emerald	Chlorostilbon ricordii
Bee Hummingbird	Mellisuga helenae
Cuban Trogon	Priotelus temnurus
Belted Kingfisher	Ceryle alcyon
Cuban Tody	Todus multicolor
West Indian Woodpecker	Melanerpes superciliaris
Cuban Woodpecker	Xiphidiopicus percussus
Northern Flicker	Colaptes auratus
Eastern Wood-Pewee	Contopus virens
Cuban Pewee	Contopus caribaeus
La Sagra's Flycatcher	Myiarchus sagrae
Eastern Kingbird	Tyrannus tyrannus
Gray Kingbird	Tyrannus dominicensis
Loggerhead Kingbird	Tyrannus caudifasciatus
Cuban Crow	Corvus nasicus
Cuban Vireo	Vireo gundlachii
Black-whiskered Vireo	Vireo altiloquus
Warbling Vireo	Vireo gilvus
Cuban Solitaire	Myadestes elisabeth
Red-legged Thrush	Turdus plumbeus
Gray Catbird	Dumetella carolinensis
Northern Mockingbird	Mimus polyglottos
Cuban Martin	Progne cryptoleuca
Northern Rough-winged Swallow	Stelgidopteryx serripennis
Bank Swallow	Riparia riparia
Barn Swallow	Hirundo rustica
Cliff Swallow	Hirundo pyrrhonota
Cave Swallow	Hirundo fulva
House Sparrow	Passer domesticus
Northern Parula	Parula americana
Yellow Warbler	Dendroica petechia
Magnolia Warbler	Dendroica magnolia
Cape May Warbler	Dendroica tigrina
Black-throated Blue Warbler	Dendroica caerulescens
Blackburnian Warbler	Dendroica fusca
Yellow-throated Warbler	Dendroica dominica
Olive-capped Warbler	Dendroica pityophila
Prairie Warbler	Dendroica discolor
Palm Warbler	Dendroica palmarum
Black-and-white Warbler	Mniotilta varia
American Redstart	Setophaga ruticilla
Worm-eating Warbler	Helmitheros vermivorus
Ovenbird	Seiurus aurocapillus
Northern Waterthrush	Seiurus noveboracensis
Louisiana Waterthrush	Seiurus motacilla
Common Yellowthroat	Geothlypis trichas
Oriente Warbler	Teretistris fornsi
Hooded Warbler	Wilsonia citrina
Stripe-headed Tanager	Spindalis zena
Red-legged Honeycreeper	Cyanerpes cyaneus
Cuban Bullfinch	Melopyrrha nigra
Cuban Grassquit	Tiaris canora
Yellow-faced Grassquit	Tiaris olivacea
Indigo Bunting	Passerina cyanea
Painted Bunting	Passerina ciris
Black-cowled Oriole	Icterus dominicensis
Tawny-shouldered Blackbird	Agelaius humeralis
Eastern Meadowlark	Sturnella magna
Cuban Blackbird	Dives atroviolacea
Greater Antillean Grackle	Quiscalus niger
Shiny Cowbird	Molothrus bonariensis

Species seen - 121

Blake Maybank
Nova Scotia, Canada
maybank@birdingtheamericas.com