29 June - 10 July 1997

by George Dremeaux

We chose the Caribbean for our family summer vacation this year essentially for these reasons: a healthy assortment of new birds, some good snorkeling, a change in culture and enough points of interest to keep the four of us (my wife, Myra; our kids, Lillie, age 15, and Andy, age 13; and myself) happy.

For the latter two components we used the excellent, though occasionally flawed (Robert Sutton is not even remotely close to 93 years old) Lonely Planet Guide to Jamaica, and the rather weak Frommer's guide to Puerto Rico.

As far as the birding goes we are highly indebted to Mark Oberle and Gail Mackiernan for both their outstanding reports and their willingness to communicate with us directly prior to our trip.  We also want to thank Marcia Braun, Ron Outen, Dennis Forsythe, D.  Cooper & B.  Kay, Peter Post, and our old pal, the late Tom Davis, for their invaluable help in organizing this trip.

For the sake of clarity I have divided this report into two parts, one for Jamaica and one for Puerto Rico.  I will not repeat directions for birding sites already described in Mackiernan/Oberle although I will clarify them where necessary.  New information includes directions to the spectacular Elim Pools near Maggoty, Jamaica and, in Puerto Rico, a productive hummingbird feeder on Culebra Island and a reliable PR Screech Owl site in Maricao (as per Outen).

PART 1 JAMAICA

We had been concerned that birding in Jamaica in July might be a bit slow if the nesting season was anything like it is further north.  We were pleased to find most species still singing even at this late date, although we did notice that things got much quieter during the last few days.  The ubiquitous song of the Black-whiskered Vireo - John Chew-it to Jamaicans - for example, had just stopped by the time we left.  In all we were very happy to tally 26 of the 27 endemics, missing only the Black-billed Parrot.  In addition we saw our first American Crocodiles in Black River and Elim Pools and around 30 spp. of sea creatures while snorkeling in Ocho Rios.

We went to Jamaica with some trepidation, having heard an assortment of good and bad experiences from a variety of people, birders and non.  Our impression was that, although we never felt threatened (despite having $200 in travelers cheques stolen from our room in Ocho Rios), the almost constant solicitation for cash by Jamaicans made for a generally uncomfortable atmosphere.  To quote Robert Sutton: 'It's killing what's left of Jamaican tourism.'

According to the Lonely Planet Guide, Jamaica has the world's second highest traffic related mortality rate.  This will come as no surprise to anyone who has white-knuckled his or her way through any of Jamaica's really lousy back roads.  The young male Jamaican driver comes at you head-on, at high speed, in the middle of the road (when he should be on your right) and, at the last minute, swerves right about a half a foot as you scratch the paint job on the left side of your rental car.  I believe the lack of painted center lanes on most of these roads is a major contributor to this phenomenon.

Renting a car on Jamaica was not nearly as expensive as we had been led to believe.  After calling all of the major car rental companies from the US we settled on Budget which offered a sub-compact without air for around $30 US a day, and a compact with air for around $45 which is what we chose.  After winning an argument with the Budget representative at the Montego Bay airport over the price I had been given back in the States, we were delighted to learn that no compacts with air were available, and that we would be bumped up to the $90 a day Mitsubishi Mirage at the $45 rate.

Finding our way around was not at all difficult thanks to the excellent International Travel Maps map of Jamaica (#316, International Travel Maps, 345 West Broadway, Vancouver BC, Canada, V5Y 1P8).  We had been warned not to ask directions because most Jamaicans, not having cars themselves, were unlikely to know how to get to many places.  We found that a really good strategy would be to get to an intersection, turn in the direction you think is right, then ask the first person you see if you were headed toward the next village on the map.  This worked quite well for us, and the answer more often than not was 'Yah, mon.'

June 29

Arrived at Montego Bay, got our rental car and drove to the pleasant Dunn's Villa & Resort Hotel in Rose Hall.  Not much of a resort but the $55 room rate was decent, particularly since we needed two of those rooms. The rooms were clean and spacious, and the hotel is on attractive fenced-in grounds with feeders which were unmaintained.  Despite this, during our three night stay we found the following birds either on the grounds or flying over:

Turkey Vulture
American Kestrel
White-crowned Pigeon
Zenaida Dove
White-winged Dove
Common Ground-Dove
Caribbean Dove
Jamaican Parakeet
Green-rumped Parrotlet
Antillean Nighthawk
Jamaican Mango
Streamertail
Jamaican Tody
Jamaican Woodpecker
Gray Kingbird
Loggerhead Kingbird
White-chinned Thrush
Bananaquit
Stripe-headed Tanager
Jamaican Euphonia
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Orangequit
Jamaican Oriole
Additional spp. seen in the vicinity of Montego Bay:
Magnificent Frigatebird
Cattle Egret
Antillean Palm-Swift
Northern Mockingbird
Greater Antillean Grackle

June 30

Martha Brae River whitewater rafting. In the summer this is a  float trip, the rough water is in the winter only. Birds seen:

Little Blue Heron
Snowy Egret
Cattle Egret
Jamaican Parakeet
Green-rumped Parrotlet
Smooth-billed Ani
Streamertail
Jamaican Woodpecker
Rufous-tailed Flycatcher
Jamaican Crow
Bananaquit

In the afternoon we went to the Rocklands Feeding Station, south of Montego Bay, not hard to find, it's on the map.  When you get out of your car you see a covered patio on your left where fellow travelers sit in chairs.  In one hand they hold a sample size liquor bottle with a little hole drilled into the cap, its tip pointed down at a baby bottle angle.  The other hand is held in front of the bottle with the index finger pointing outward like a perch, and on this finger RED-BILLED STREAMERTAILS and a single JAMAICAN MANGO come to perch and feed!  We were invited to come, sit and participate in this spectacle, and shortly found ourselves also to be human bird feeders.  Fritz, the caretaker/resident birder instructed Andy to hold his hands out flat, palms turned upward, into which he poured a little millet.  YELLOW-FACED and BLACK-FACED GRASSQUITS alit and squabbled over who got the seed.  Other species at or near the feeders included:

White-winged Dove
Common Ground-Dove
Caribbean Dove
White-chinned Thrush
Orangequit
Jamaican Oriole

Fritz asked if we had seen the (Northern) Potoos.  We said no, could he take us?  He answered: in the morning.  We asked if we could take a walk this afternoon anyway, and he said OK.  On the walk we added:

White-crowned Pigeon
Ruddy Quail-Dove
Jamaican Parakeet
Green-rumped Parrotlet
Jamaican Tody
Jamaican Woodpecker
Rufous-tailed Flycatcher
Jamaican Crow
Jamaican Vireo
Jamaican Euphonia
Greater Antillean Bullfinch

Now, here's the zinger.  We had fully expected to make a donation of some kind toward the purchase of supplies to maintain the feeder, as is the custom at places like the Paton's feeder in Patagonia, Arizona.  This charitable intention proved to be a waste of time, however, when Fritz informed us that the afternoon's entertainment would set us back $55 US, $10 each for the feeder fun and $15 for the walk.  He would, however give us a break on tomorrow's walk.  This turned out not to be the case: he charged us $3 more.  It was a longer walk.

Unbeknownst to us, we had just been given our first lesson in Jamaican economics: everything costs.

Night at Dunn's.

July 1

We let the kids sleep and met up with Fritz at 8:00 AM, the hour he suggested.  He had informed us the day before that a JAMAICAN BLACKBIRD had made an appearance a week ago.  We had not been there 5 minutes that he heard it.  We made our way toward the sound's source and rather easily found it perched about 20 feet up a tree.  This was probably the best sighting of the trip, and would save us a lot of work and potential heartache in the Blue Mountains.  We could not find either big Cuckoo, when I told Fritz that I had a tape.  His eyes lit up and he told me to play it.  A CHESTNUT-BELLIED CUCKOO answered but remained unseen.  Later a JAMAICAN LIZARD CUCKOO did the same thing then flew away.  We got a good look at it flying away.  A CHESTNUT-BELLIED CUCKOO flew in and gave us a really bad look, and that would be it for the big cuckoos, although Myra got a very good look at a MANGROVE CUCKOO.  Upon relating this tale of woe to the Suttons in Marshall's Pen later in the trip, we were somewhat relieved to learn that this behavior is typical at this time of the year.  The cuckoos are on the nest and, therefore, quite shy.  Oddly enough, 10 days later in Puerto Rico, we found the PR Lizard Cuckoo to be quite cooperative.

YELLOW-SHOULDERED GRASSQUIT was a good find on the way to the Potoo site, which turned out to be another highlight of the trip.  Fritz showed us 2 sleeping yet highly visible NORTHERN POTOOS.  I had lugged my camera rig along, and got some good shots.  At the end of our walk we settled on $18.  As a stand alone amount this seemed quite reasonable, but our 2 day total was now $73.  So be forewarned, birders: this is not a National Wildlife Refuge.  It is, however, a wonderful place to bird.  I should add that Sutton was very concerned for its future.  The proprietor, Lisa Salmon, is in her nineties and has suffered a number of strokes.  The property itself is quite small, just the house and a little parcel of adjacent land.  She has no children, only a nephew to inherit it, and, it seems, he's not that enamored of running the place.  Finally, due to its close proximity to Montego Bay, development is encroaching from all around, and its future is really quite bleak unless some environmental organization steps in.  Birds seen:

American Kestrel
White-crowned Pigeon
Zenaida Dove
Caribbean Dove
Ruddy Quail-Dove
Jamaican Parakeet
Mangrove Cuckoo
Chestnut-bellied Cuckoo
Jamaican Lizard-Cuckoo
Northern Potoo
Jamaican Mango
Streamertail
Jamaican Tody
Jamaican Woodpecker
Jamaican Elaenia
Sad Flycatcher
Rufous-tailed Flycatcher
Jamaican Becard
Jamaican Crow
Jamaican Vireo
Black-whiskered Vireo
White-chinned Thrush
Cave Swallow
Arrow-headed Warbler
Bananaquit
Stripe-headed Tanager
Jamaican Euphonia
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Black-faced Grassquit
Yellow-shouldered Grassquit
Greater Antillean Bullfinch
Jamaican Oriole
Jamaican Blackbird

In the afternoon we visited the Windsor Cave (for directions refer to Oberle, Jamaica Birding, Nov.  21-23, 1993).  Franklin was in town buying auto supplies so his brother Martel gave us the cave tour.  The afternoon heat made for some lousy birding, but the bats were great.  On the drive back two parrots wheeling overhead turned out to be YELLOW-BILLED PARROTS.  Birds seen:

Ruddy Quail-Dove
Jamaican Parakeet
Yellow-billed Parrot
Jamaican Lizard-Cuckoo
Jamaican Tody
Jamaican Woodpecker
Sad Flycatcher
Jamaican Crow
Black-whiskered Vireo
Cave Swallow
Bananaquit
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Greater Antillean Bullfinch

We would return the next morning.

July 2

For reasons you don't want to be bored with we were unable to make it to Windsor Cave until around 9:00 AM.  It was already unbearably hot and humid and birds were hard to come by.  Our only new species was STOLID FLYCATCHER.  Species seen:

Red-tailed Hawk
Jamaican Parakeet
Jamaican Lizard-Cuckoo
Stolid Flycatcher
Jamaican Crow
Black-whiskered Vireo
Bananaquit
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Black-faced Grassquit
 

From here we visited the Bob Marley Mausoleum in Nine Mile and the Runaway Cave near Discovery Bay, then onto the Silver Seas Hotel in Ocho Rios and snorkeling at the offshore reef.  Next day: Dunn's River Falls, Fern Valley, more snorkeling etc.  2 Nights at the Silver Seas, Ocho Rios.

July 4

We spent the morning looking for the American Express office to file our claim of $200 in stolen Traveler's Cheques, which were promptly refunded.  Then off to the Blue Mountains and Green Hills Guest House.  Birds seen during our stay in Ocho Rios:

Magnificent Frigatebird
Brown Pelican
Cattle Egret
Green Heron
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron
Turkey Vulture
Rock Dove
Zenaida Dove
Gray Kingbird
Black-whiskered Vireo
Bananaquit
Greater Antillean Grackle

Not having been able to secure reservations for the Green Hills Guest House, and not quite sure what to make of the 'bring your own food Lloyd will cook it'  arrangement we stocked up on canned goods and bread before our departure.  After the long and tortuous drive up the mountains we found Lloyd and the guest house a welcome sight.  Much to our delight Lloyd offered to cook us dinner if we gave him a ride to the nearest shop.

Another family, as it turns out, was staying there; the father was Dutch, the wife Jamaican and their 11-year-old daughter adorable.  They came along for the ride, but for some reason declined the dinner offer.  Lloyd got a chicken, some rice, salad fixins, assorted spices and a few Red Stripes and back we went for the best dinner of the trip.  We learned from our Dutch friends that a Mr. Chang of Montego Bay was the owner of this as well as a number of other accommodations in Jamaica, and that Lloyd was nothing more than an employee.  Because his parents live across the road we had mistakenly assumed that it was somehow theirs.  I don't know why, but we were disappointed.  At this point we realized that my cassette player was nowhere to be found.  I had wanted to try playing Jamaican Owl, but this was not to be.  Additionally it boded ill for the next day as there were a number of species whose song we needed to bone up on and some others we might try to lure in.  WHITE-EYED THRUSH was the only new bird of the day.  Birds seen around the guest house:

Streamertail
Jamaican Woodpecker
Sad Flycatcher
Gray Kingbird
Rufous-throated Solitaire
White-chinned Thrush
White-eyed Thrush
Bananaquit
Stripe-headed Tanager

July 5

Early morning bird walk while the kids slept.  Having missed the Crested Quail-Dove and Blue Mountain Vireo at Windsor Cave probably not get another chance.  Gail Mackiernan's nephew, D.  Cooper, had found it, using Robert Sutton's advice, with little difficulty on Woodside Drive near Hardwar Gap.  We were dismayed to find a caretaker raking the drive and, alas, all we could manage was another Ruddy Quail-Dove (a decidedly easy bird for us in Jamaica).  No luck either on the Vireo although we're quite sure we heard more than one, but without our tape player, what could we do?  The good news is we did see lots of great birds and tallied up 6 life-birds including the ridiculously small VERVAIN HUMMINGBIRD at the Gap Cafe (they have a hummingbird feeder which attracts STREAMERTAILS, the Vervain fed on a flowering shrub below it), RING-TAILED PIGEON, GREATER ANTILLEAN ELAENIA, JAMAICAN PEWEE, many magnificent RUFOUS-THROATED SOLITAIRES and our first (and last) well seen ARROW-HEADED WARBLER.  We also found a lovely AMERICAN KESTREL with entirely deep rufous underparts, a form occasionally observed on the island according to Sutton.  Birds seen along the main road between Green Hills Guest House and Hardwar Gap that morning:

Turkey Vulture
American Kestrel
White-crowned Pigeon
Ring-tailed Pigeon
Common Ground-Dove
Ruddy Quail-Dove
Jamaican Parakeet
Black Swift
White-collared Swift
Antillean Palm-Swift
Streamertail
Vervain Hummingbird
Jamaican Tody
Jamaican Woodpecker
Greater Antillean Elaenia
Jamaican Pewee
Sad Flycatcher
Rufous-tailed Flycatcher
Gray Kingbird
Loggerhead Kingbird
Jamaican Vireo
Black-whiskered Vireo
Rufous-throated Solitaire
White-chinned Thrush
White-eyed Thrush
Northern Mockingbird
Arrow-headed Warbler
Bananaquit
Stripe-headed Tanager
Jamaican Euphonia
Black-faced Grassquit
Yellow-shouldered Grassquit
Greater Antillean Bullfinch
Orangequit
Jamaican Oriole
Greater Antillean Grackle

We had made plans to be picked up in Mavis Bank and driven to the Wildflower Lodge at the base of Blue Mountain Peak from which we would hike to the summit the next day.  Our plans were dashed, however, when our ride failed to show up after two hours of waiting at the Mavis Bank Police Station.  It was getting dark, and our only hope of finding lodging was to set out for Kingston.  Thanks to some deft map reading by Myra, and street sign reading by the kids we made our way to the high-rise Wyndham Hotel in New Kingston for a night of hot showers and CNN (Jimmy Stewart and Robert Mitchum had passed away, and the Sojourner was tooling around the Martian landscape).  A phone call to the Wildflower Lodge the next morning yielded sincere apologies but no explanations.

July 6

We called the Suttons and arranged to come 2 days early due to our unforeseen change in plans, and headed toward Mandeville.  It was Sunday and so the Bob Marley Museum was closed (In case you're wondering, we had visited the Bob Marley Mausoleum, not the Museum).  We stopped at the Ararwalk Museum in Spanish Town expecting that to be closed Sunday as well, but were relieved to find that it was undergoing renovation and would have been inaccessible anyway.  We arrived at Marshall's Pen, the Sutton's ranch, around 2:00, spoke briefly to both of them, went into town for some groceries, then came back and made plans to go owling that night and to do a little birding in the morning.

Robert collected us at 6:00 PM and walked us to a spot to wait for nightfall.  As the sky darkened we covered various topics and found him to be somewhat disheartened by the state of affairs in Jamaica.  He thought we were lucky to have missed the Blue Mountain hike.  It seems little forest remains below the highest elevations.  He explained the sorry situation at Rocklands Feeding Station to us.  He complained quite a bit about crime and noise, but his biggest gripe was aimed at Cambridge University Press.  It seems they reissued his and Audrey Downer's Birds of Jamaica without notifying them even though they had made it very clear that there were errors to be corrected (for instance: the photo of the Sad Flycatcher fails to show its YELLOW belly, although the original slide shows it well) and new species to be added (like Swallow-tailed Kite, Mississippi Kite and Shiny Cowbird, to name a few).

He began to play the Jamaican Owl tape with no luck whatsoever when his wife Anne called to us that there were 2 by the kitchen.  We rushed over to the sound of duetting owls.  Robert played the tape.  The owls responded but would not show themselves.  He played the tape again and we saw them fly off into the distance.  We chased after them to no avail.  We heard another single individual way off but decided not to go after him.  Eventually we had to give up and settle for that brief glimpse of the pair flying off.  Robert later confided in us that he should not have played the tape with a pair of owls present.  He thought it probably scared them off.

Birds seen at Marshall's Pen:

Least Grebe
Turkey Vulture
American Kestrel
Zenaida Dove
White-winged Dove
Common Ground-Dove
Ruddy Quail-Dove
Jamaican Parakeet
Smooth-billed Ani
Jamaican Owl
Antillean Nighthawk
Black Swift
Antillean Palm-Swift
Streamertail
Jamaican Woodpecker
Sad Flycatcher
Gray Kingbird
Loggerhead Kingbird
Jamaican Vireo
Black-whiskered Vireo
White-chinned Thrush
White-eyed Thrush
Northern Mockingbird
European Starling
Cave Swallow
Saffron Finch
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Orangequit
Jamaican Oriole
Greater Antillean Grackle

July 7

One of the first things the Suttons had asked us upon our arrival was what birds we were missing.  Besides the owl, we were now down to three endemics: Black-billed Parrot, Blue Mountain Vireo and Crested Quail-Dove.  They informed us that the former two were easy enough if we drove back through the Cockpit Country.  The Quail-Dove was quite another thing altogether even though they nested right there on the ranch.  This morning Robert met us at dawn and walked us over to a dark little patch of woods where we heard the deep hoot of the CRESTED QUAIL-DOVE.  On the way we picked up our only other JAMAICAN PEWEE.  Some rustling in the understory gave us yet another good look at a RUDDY QUAIL-DOVE.  Sutton sent Myra and I into the woods to try our luck at perhaps chancing on the Crested ourselves.  After about an hour of stealthy searching something shot past Myra which turned out to be the only look she would get at this elusive species.  Bummer for me.  We went back to the cottage for breakfast with the kids and for showers, but I couldn't get this missed bird out of my mind.  I returned alone to the patch and ended up with a repeat performance of Myra's experience.  The bird or birds would call until I got close, then stop.  After much of this game of cat and mouse I got to see one shoot overhead and fly to a concealed perch from where he would not call until I was far enough away.  I finally gave up and had to settle with a really bad look.  Birds seen that morning:

Least Grebe
White-winged Dove
Common Ground-Dove
Crested Quail-Dove
Ruddy Quail-Dove
Jamaican Parakeet
Smooth-billed Ani
Antillean Palm-Swift
Streamertail
Jamaican Tody
Jamaican Woodpecker
Jamaican Pewee
Black-whiskered Vireo
White-chinned Thrush
White-eyed Thrush
European Starling
Cave Swallow
Bananaquit
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Black-faced Grassquit
Greater Antillean Bullfinch
Orangequit

Before we left Marshall's Pen we obtained directions to the dreaded Burnt Hill Road in the Cockpit Country, as well as the Elim Pools (for the West Indian Whistling-Duck).  We paid $120 US for our one night ($30 per person, sorry, kids don't sleep free), said our farewells and headed off to the town of Black River where we would take the commercial boat trip up the river to see American Crocodiles.  Sutton had made a face when we told him of these plans, but how is this different, I wonder, from paying Fritz to show us a Potoo?  As a matter of fact, this is one of the few environmentally oriented ventures we observed during our stay in Jamaica.  At the very least it raises an awareness in their environment that few Jamaicans must have.  On the boat a Rasta smoked and rolled massive spliffs as Andy, our 13-year-old, watched in fascination.  Just the kind of education we had hoped to avoid.  Selassie (as he was called) really dug the Crocs.  Birds seen in and around Black River:

Magnificent Frigatebird
Brown Pelican
Snowy Egret
Cattle Egret
Green Heron
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron
Turkey Vulture
American Kestrel
Common Moorhen
Killdeer
Rock Dove
Zenaida Dove
White-crowned Pigeon
Zenaida Dove
White-winged Dove
Common Ground-Dove
Smooth-billed Ani
Antillean Palm-Swift
Streamertail
Gray Kingbird
Loggerhead Kingbird
Northern Mockingbird
Greater Antillean Grackle

Two nights at the Invercauld Inn, Black River.

July 8

An action-packed day.  We took the Appleton Rum tour in the morning and swam at the Y-S Falls in the afternoon, all the while looking forward to visiting the Elim Pools in the late afternoon/evening.  Directions to Elim Pools.  From Black River drive north to Middle Quarters making sure to pick up a bag of pepper shrimp (crawfish, actually) from one of the street vendors.  Proceed east through Bamboo Avenue (a major tourist attraction, hard to miss) to Lacovia.  Turn north toward Maggoty.  The first town you reach is Newton.  Turn right at the intersection over a bridge crossing the Black River.  Immediately after the bridge turn right (south) on an unmarked dirt road.  From here proceed around 3 - 5 miles (we didn't clock it, but it's not hard to figure out) to a large pump station directly in front of you.  Turn left (east, I think) on the dirt road and scan the lakes and river on both sides.  We were only able to go about 1 or 2 miles before a stream which we chose not to drive through cut through the road.

The best spot for the endangered WEST INDIAN WHISTLING- DUCK seemed to be in the ponds, visible through brush and trees, on the left just before the left turn at the pump station.  We saw 10-15 individuals here swim noisily out just as it was getting dark.  Earlier we had seen one fly over the car as we drove along the east-west road.

The place is a magnificent natural resource that would undoubtedly be a National Wildlife Refuge back in the States.  Many hundreds of egrets (we recorded 10 species) dotted the wetlands and roosted in trees.  A mixed raft of over 100 American & Caribbean Coots floated by us on the river.  A small selection of shorebirds at such an early date lead one to believe that this must be a major staging area or winter roost.  Jacanas are resident and were easily seen.  An American Crocodile lazily swam down the river.  Masked Duck occurs rarely (we missed it).

Birds seen:

50+ Pied-billed Grebe
10-15 West Indian Whistling-Duck
~10 Tricolored Heron
~10 Little Blue Heron
100+ Snowy Egret
100+ Great Egret
100+ Cattle Egret
~30 Green Heron
~10 Yellow-crowned Night-Heron
~5 Black-crowned Night-Heron
1 Least Bittern
~20 Glossy Ibis
Turkey Vulture
American Kestrel
1 Purple Gallinule
~30 Common Moorhen
~25 American Coot
~50 Caribbean Coot
~20 Northern Jacana
2 Greater Yellowlegs
1 Lesser Yellowlegs
~25 Black-necked Stilt
1 Semipalmated Plover
1 Killdeer
Laughing Gull
White-crowned Pigeon
Zenaida Dove
White-winged Dove
Common Ground-Dove
Jamaican Parakeet
Green-rumped Parrotlet
Smooth-billed Ani
Antillean Nighthawk
Antillean Palm-Swift
Streamertail
Gray Kingbird
Loggerhead Kingbird
Black-whiskered Vireo
Northern Mockingbird
Bananaquit
Greater Antillean Grackle

July 9

Our last day before leaving Jamaica found us driving through the middle of the island on the B10, termed inoperable on our road map, in search of the only two endemics missed so far: Black- billed Parrot & Blue Mountain Vireo.  Sutton had assured us that the road was passable and gave us the following directions.  From the previously described town of Newton continue north toward Maggoty rather than turn right (east) over the Black River bridge.  In Maggoty head right (east) toward Balaclava.  In very short order you'll come to a very poorly marked roundabout.  Take the second left continuing toward Balaclava.  The first left will take you up into the mountains toward Elderslie (we know, we ended up there).  You will now veer north toward Oxford and Auchtembeddie.  It's another 10 or so km to Spring Garden at which point you'll never find the turnoff toward Burnt Hill without asking someone, and even when you find it you won't believe it.  It's not that bumpy or potholed, it's just so grown over you'll think you're on someone's unmowed grass driveway.  You'll shortly come to a T junction at Burnt Hill.  This is a place only in name, there's simply nothing there.  Turn left and head north.  In about 8 km the road will gradually become more road-like as you enter Barbecue Bottom, and you'll start seeing humans again who will stare at you like you've just come from Mars.  Stop, look and listen for birds anywhere along this stretch.

We began to notice that birdsong had become noticeably less apparent, even the ceaseless John Chewit (Black-whiskered Vireo) had become virtually silent.  We got the BLUE MOUNTAIN VIREO, however, without too much trouble, particularly since our daughter discovered the missing cassette player in her backpack (which is precisely where I had put it).  We saw a few small parties of Amazona parrots flying by, but always too quickly to put the bins on, and our naked eye looks could not discern the characteristic red feathers of the Black-billed in the bend of the wing.  Around Barbecue Bottom we got a good look at two Amazonas flying away.  No red.  Black-billed Parrot would remain the only missed endemic.  Birds seen from Black River to Barbecue Bottom:

Magnificent Frigatebird
Turkey Vulture
American Kestrel
Royal Tern
Mourning Dove
Zenaida Dove
Common Ground-Dove
Ruddy Quail-Dove
Jamaican Parakeet
Green-rumped Parrotlet
Yellow-billed Parrot
Antillean Palm-Swift
Streamertail
Jamaican Tody
Jamaican Woodpecker
Gray Kingbird
Loggerhead Kingbird
Jamaican Crow
Blue Mountain Vireo
Black-whiskered Vireo
White-chinned Thrush
Cave Swallow
Bananaquit
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Black-faced Grassquit
Greater Antillean Bullfinch
Greater Antillean Grackle

Back to Dunn's Villa where we repacked our luggage in preparation for the following day's flight to Puerto Rico.  A final tally of birds yielded 90 species including 43 life birds, 27 of 28 endemics and 11 endemic sub-species, plus American Crocodile and a nice assortment of reef creatures.  We had had a successful though occasionally flawed trip, but I think sometimes it's the flaws that really make a trip memorable.  They say travel is its own reward, an adage in which I firmly believe.

ANNOTATED BIRD LIST

E - endemic species
ES - endemic sub-species

Least Grebe
A pair was observed daily at Marshall's Pen in the large cistern diagonally opposite the Sutton's guest cottage.

Pied-billed Grebe
Over 50 individuals observed at Elim Pools.

Magnificent Frigatebird
Common along the shore.

Brown Pelican
Noted 3 times along the shore.

West Indian Whistling-Duck
This nocturnal species came out very late in the day for us at Elim Pools, with one flying over the car as we cruised and scanned the pools on the east-west road. As we headed up the north-south road to leave (just after having turned right onto it) we heard many ducks on the right and were able to scope 10 - 15 as they noisily swam out of the brush into the open water.

Tricolored Heron
Around 10 at Elim Pools.

Little Blue Heron
Martha Brae River and around 20 at Elim Pools.

Snowy Egret
Seen on the Martha Brae River, on the Black River boat trip, and
in over 100 at Elim Pools.

Great Egret
One seen from the car along the north shore and over 100 at Elim Pools.

Cattle Egret
Common throughout, numerous at Elim Pools.

Green Heron
Seen four times including regular sightings at the Silver seas Hotel in Ocho Rios, and around 20 at Elim Pools.

Yellow-crowned Night-Heron
Seen three times including regular sightings at the Silver seas Hotel in Ocho Rios, along the Black River, and 10 or so at Elim Pools.

Black-crowned Night-Heron
Around 5 seen at Elim Pools.

Least Bittern
One seen at Elim Pools.

Glossy Ibis
Around 20 seen at Elim Pools.

Turkey Vulture
Abundant.

Red-tailed Hawk
Seen once at Windsor Cave.

American Kestrel
Very common, seen almost daily.

Purple Gallinule
One seen at Elim Pools.

Common Moorhen
Seen twice, on the Black River boat trip, and around 20 at Elim Pools.

American Coot
Around 25 at Elim Pools.

Caribbean Coot
Around 50 at Elim Pools, toghether with the American Coots.

Northern Jacana
Around 20 at Elim Pools.

Greater Yellowlegs
2 at Elim Pools.

Lesser Yellowlegs
1 at Elim Pools.

Black-necked Stilt
Around 25 at Elim Pools.

Semipalmated Plover
1 at Elim Pools.

Killdeer
1 at Black River and another at Elim Pools.

Laughing Gull
1 at Black River.

Royal Tern
1 at Black River.

Rock Dove
Around Ocho Rios and again at Black River.

White-crowned Pigeon
Recorded on seven out of eleven days throughout the island.

Ring-tailed Pigeon E
Only one well seen in flight near Hardware Gap.

Mourning Dove
Only one seen near Black River.

Zenaida Dove
Quite common, recorded on eight out of eleven days.

White-winged Dove
Fairly common, recorded five times at Dunn's Villa, Rocklands Feeding Station, Marshall's Pen and around Black River.

Common Ground-Dove
Quite common, recorded eight out of eleven days.

Caribbean Dove ES
This endemic sub-species is strikingly different in appearance from the plainer individual we had observed on Cozumel in 1991. Seen both days at Rocklands Feeding Station, and once flying over Dunn's Villa.

Crested Quail-Dove E
Seen poorly at Marshall's Pen, see account of July 7.

Ruddy Quail-Dove
We recorded this species on six occasions with many good looks thrown in; both days at Rocklands, 1 around Hardwar Gap, 4 at Marshall's Pen the first day and another the second, and one on the Burnt Hill road.

Jamaican Parakeet E
Frequently seen flying about in groups of two or three up to flocks of 15-20. Recorded on nine of eleven days.

Green-rumped Parrotlet
Five records: 6 over Dunn's Villa, both days at Rocklands Feeding Station, at Elim Pools and on the Barbecue Bottom Road.

Yellow-billed Parrot E
One pair seen well in flight on the road between Windsor Cave and Sherwood Content, then another pair just north of Barbecue Bottom on which day we saw numbers of Amazona parrots that frustratingly flew out of sight whenever we got the binoculars up, thereby missing what may have been Black-billed Parrot.

Mangrove Cuckoo ES
Only Myra saw this endemic sub-species at Rocklands.

Chestnut-bellied Cuckoo E
One very bad look as a very shy individual flew in to our tape at Rocklands. A brilliant flash of the deep chestnut belly and the black and white tail, then gone.

Jamaican Lizard-Cuckoo E
Almost the same adventure with this species, although this one gave us a good look at him flying away. This was followed by the same behavior of one individual at Windsor Cave. Anne Sutton confirmed that these two species become very secretive at this time of the year, and was not at all surprised by our experience. None recorded at Marshall's Pen. Surprisingly, a few days later the Puerto Rican Lizard-Cuckoo exhibited the opposite behavior, allowing us long leisurely looks.

Smooth-billed Ani
Fairly common near fresh water. Seen at Martha Brae River, Marshall's Pen, Black River and the Elim Pools.

Jamaican Owl E
One very bad look at two birds flying away at Marshall's Pen, see account of July 6.

Northern Potoo
Excellent long looks at two birds on their diurnal perches as shown to us by Fritz at Rocklands Feeding Station.

Antillean Nighthawk
Recorded three times at dusk over Dunn's Villa, Marshall's Pen and Elim Pools.

Black Swift
Recorded three times: 5 seen around Hardwar Gap and others at Marshall's Pen and Black River.

White-collared Swift
Over 20 above Hollywell National Park at Hardwar Gap.

Antillean Palm-Swift
A very common bird recorded on nine out of eleven days.

Jamaican Mango E
Seen only twice, once at Dunn's Villa observed perched in a tree as we were having breakfast. Our second bird was also perched, this time on Myra's finger, at Rocklands feeding station. This is a truly stunning bird when seen up close. What impressed me the most was the tail. On the dorsal surface it is a rich deep rufous while the underside is a brilliant iridescent magenta/purple.

Streamertail E
We saw only Red-billed Streamertails, and quite often at that. We observed this, the national bird of Jamaica, locally known as Doctorbird, on eight of eleven days. We did not try for the Black-billed race and , in retrospect, I wish we did.

Vervain Hummingbird ES
Just like D. Cooper in his report we thought we had already seen Vervain Hummingbird (at some roadside flowers... it looked small enough) until the real thing showed up at a flowering bush beneath a Streamertail infested hummingbird feeder at the Gap Cafe near Hardwar Gap. This bird is almost laughably small and gives the impression of being all head. He would not go to the feeder. While at Rocklands, we had asked Fritz if they ever came to the feeding station. He replied that they didn't. It seems the larger Streamertails chase them away.

Jamaican Tody E
Fairly common and quite obvious. We recorded this species at all the visited birding sites.

Jamaican Woodpecker E
Another easy species, this lovely woodpecker was noted on eight of eleven days. Easily recognized by its call if the observer is accustomed to Red-bellied Woodpeckers.

Jamaican Elaenia E
Seen only once, on the trails around Rocklands Feeding Station.

Greater Antillean Elaenia ES
Also seen only once, perched and calling, on the road between Green Hills Guest House and Hardwar Gap. According to the Suttons, this endemic sub-species is on the decline.

Jamaican Pewee E
Twice observed, the first time on the road between Green Hills Guest House and Hardwar Gap, and again at Marshall's Pen.

Sad Flycatcher E
Note: contrary to the photograph in Downer and Sutton, this bird exhibits a yellow belly. According to Robert Sutton, the original slide shows the yellow quite well. It was somehow lost in the printing. Additionally, the big black crested head is obvious in the field.  Seen on four occasions: at Rocklands Feeding Station, Windsor Cave, the Green Hills Guest House and Marshall's Pen.

Rufous-tailed Flycatcher E
Seen four times: at the Martha Brae River, both days at Rocklands and at Hardwar Gap.

Stolid Flycatcher ES
Seen only once, at Windsor Cave.

Gray Kingbird
Abundant, recorded 9 of eleven days.

Loggerhead Kingbird ES
Though not as common as the Gray Kingbird, nevertheless we observed this species on eight of eleven days.

Jamaican Becard E
A lovely pair seen well on the trails at Rocklands. We were somewhat surprised not to encounter this species again.

Jamaican Crow E
Seen at four sites: the Martha Brae River, both days at Rocklands (where we found a dead one on the trail), Windsor Cave and the Barbecue Bottom Road. This species was easy to see in its range and completely absent elsewhere.

Jamaican Vireo E
Only seen at three sites: on both days at Rocklands, and single individuals at Hardwar Gap and Marshall's Pen.

Blue Mountain Vireo E
One of our toughest finds. We're quite sure we heard a few in the Blue Mountains, but at the time our cassette player was lost. Sutton directed us to the Barbecue Bottom Road in the Cockpit Country where we able to locate 2 individuals without too much difficulty on this, our last day of birding in Jamaica.

Black-whiskered Vireo
Recorded on nine of eleven days, this abundant species is known by its call throughout the island as John Chewit.

Rufous-throated Solitaire ES
Based on other reports, we had expected more trouble finding this bird. We recorded at least ten in one morning of birding on the road between Green Hills Guest House and Hardwar Gap. Of those we at least six, with some great looks at this remarkably beautiful species. Perhaps it had something to do with the time of the year.

White-chinned Thrush E
Talk about a lousy name for a bird. The white on the chin is its least obvious feature. We should all start a letter writing campaign to the AOU to have its name changed to the local version, the Hopping Dick. Quite common and recorded on seven of eleven days.

White-eyed Thrush E
Seen only in two places: on the Hardwar Gap Road and at Marshall's Pen, but quite common at both.

Northern Mockingbird
Common. Observed mostly along roadsides on eight of eleven days.

European Starling
Unfortunately for the Suttons, we only saw this species at their ranch.

Cave Swallow
Widely seen throughout the island.

Arrow-headed Warbler E
A singing male was pointed out to us by Fritz at Rocklands, but it flew away before we could locate it. Another male was well seen on the Hardwar Gap Road just north of the Green Hills Guest House.

Bananaquit ES
This abundant beautiful little pest was recorded on nine of eleven days.

Stripe-headed Tanager ES
Seen  on four occasions: At Dunn's Villa, Rocklands Feeding Station and both days around Hardwar Gap, with 5 noted the second day. The boldly marked female of this endemic sub-species is quite striking.

Jamaican Euphonia ES
One pair on the nest at Dunn's Villa, also noted both days at Rocklands and again near Hardwar Gap.

Saffron Finch
One pair seen at Marshall's Pen.

Yellow-faced Grassquit
Fairly common and hard to miss. Seen on six of eleven days.

Black-faced Grassquit
Same as above, though maybe not quite as common.

Yellow-shouldered Grassquit E
Seen twice, with good looks both times. There was a pair on the trails around Rocklands, then we had a superb male on the Hardwar Gap Road just north of the Green Hills Guest House.

Greater Antillean Bullfinch ES
Fairly common. Seen  at Rocklands, Windsor Cave, Hardwar Gap, Marshall's Pen and on the Barbecue Bottom Road.

Orangequit E
Also fairly common. Seen at Dunn's Villa, Rocklands, Hardwar Gap and both days at Marshall's Pen.

Jamaican Oriole E
Recorded on four days, at Dunn's Villa, Rocklands, Hardwar Gap and Marshall's Pen.

Jamaican Blackbird E
Seen at Rocklands Feeding Station, see account of July 1.

Greater Antillean Grackle ES
An abundant species, seen on ten of eleven days.

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George Dremeaux
Mt. Kisco, NY
dremeaux@cloud9.net