20 - 31 March 2000
by Linda Baker
Here is a very long-overdue report of my trip to Costa Rica. I apologize for delaying so long in getting it written and posted. If anyone has any questions, I will gladly answer them.
Guide: Alexander Villegas Driver: José
ITINERARY & HOTELS
March 20: Travel to Costa Rica Overnight in San Jose Aeropuerto Hotel
March 21-23: Monteverde Monteverde Biological Reserve; Ecological Farm Trapp Family Lodge
March 24 & 25: Arenal Grounds of hotel & rainforest Arenal Adventure Ecolodge
March 26: Sarapiqui La Selva Biological Station La Quinta de Sarapiqui Lodge
March 27: Sarapiqui to Cerro de la Muerte La Virgen del Socorro Savegre Mountain Lodge
March 28: Cerro de la Muerte to Carara Savegre Mountain Hotel Villa Lapas
March 29: Carara Carara Biological Reserve & Rio Tarcoles Hotel Villa Lapas
March 30: Travel home
Our group consisted of 4 ladies, our guide and our driver. It was a bonus to have such a small, compatible group that made sightings so much easier for everyone to see. Alex is a superb guide who seemed to make birds appear as if by magic! He has an unbelievable ear for the bird sounds. Since he is currently working on a library of the bird sounds of Costa Rica, he is extremely familiar with them. This was the first time that Alex worked professionally with Jose, but I suspect it won't be the last. They made a great pair. Jose always stayed to the rear to make sure that none of us got sidetracked for too long and, therefore, separated from the group. He did not consider himself a birdwatcher before this trip, but, I dare say, he is now "hooked". He was quite good at spotting birds. Even though Jose spoke little English, and we spoke even less Spanish, he got across his humor and his thoughts to us.
We stayed in San Jose on our arrival in Costa Rica.
The next day, we drove to Monteverde (Cloud forest, middle elevation, Caribbean side), stopping along the road to look for birds of the Dry forest habitat in the Guacimal area. During our stay in Monteverde, we looked for birds at El Sopa Durado Hotel, which has fig trees in the front yard that attract birds to their fruit; the Ecological Farm; Monteverde Biological Reserve; and the road near the Quaker School. One of the highlights of the trip was lunch at Stella's. If you are in Monteverde, you owe it to yourself to dine there. The food is great! The birdy highlights were definitely the 6 Resplendent Quetzales, the many species of hummingbirds, and the 2 male Long-tailed Manakins displaying on a lek for the one female.
Our next stop was Arenal, with lovely views of the steaming volcano. We birded the grounds of the hotel and the rainforest that is only 1 km away from the hotel. This was northern Caribbean middle-elevation rainforest. Unforgettable is the tree outside the lodge that was filled with a rainbow of neon-colored birds.
We then drove to Sarapiqui for a marathon day of birding at La Selva Biological Station. Before it opened and after it closed, we surveyed the area on both sides of the road that leads into the Station. La Selva is Caribbean lowlands rainforest. There were so many birds and variety that we saw 126 species in twelve hours. I am sure that we missed many (reason enough to return to Costa Rica!).
On our way to Cerro de la Muerte, we explored the Virgen de Socorro (mid-elevation Caribbean rainforest). We walked along a dirt road on a very steep, bumpy hill. The road consisted of 2 ruts separated by a grassy strip and goes through the forest and down the mountain to a bridge over Rio Sarapiqui. The most fascinating sight for me was watching 2 American Dippers as they dove into the water from the boulders in the river and swam and caught fish underwater. The water was so clear that we had perfect viewing of their antics as we stood on the bridge.
We spent less than a day in the Savegre Mountains. I must return for a longer stay in this exquisite area. It was here that Alex saw his lifebird of the trip--an Andean Pygmy-owl. Needless to say, it was a lifer for each of us. The Pygmy-owl was residing in a hole in a tree near the top of the mountain. The Chacon family that owns & operates the lodge had located it and was anxious to show it to us. They piled us into their jeep and drove up the switchbacks along the mountain face to where the owl roosted near the top of the mountain. We had 3 generations of the Chacons with us--the original settler of the area, his son, & his grandson.
Our last stop was the Carara area (transitional forest of south Pacific forest mixed with northwest dry forest). We looked for birds from a bridge over Rio Tarcoles and explored 2 trails in Carara Biological Reserve. Watching 20 Scarlet Macaws flying overhead and then feeding in a mimosa tree was delightful. There were also 20 Boat-billed Herons in the same area. We closed out our adventures at sunset at the area where the Rio Tarcoles empties into the Pacific Ocean, where we watched waders, shorebirds and owls.
We were supposed to stay until March 31, but we opted to leave a day early. A nationwide strike and road blockade had been called for our scheduled day of departure. I was willing to take my chances of not getting out, because I could have spent a lot more time there. However, my travelling buddies needed to be home on the planned day. Since we were uncertain of how the blockade would impact our getting to the airport, we left early. There had been local blockades during our stay, but we had not encountered them, and there were no reports of violence.
Also seen during our adventures were several species of Iguanas, White-faced monkeys, Eyelash Viper, Coati, Agouti, 2-toed Sloth, Crocodiles, Poison Dart Frog, and a variety of insects.
The temperature ranged from a low of 45 degrees F at Cerro de la Muerte to a high of 90 degrees at La Selva. The skies were mostly clear. It was humid with no rain.
Impressions: Costa Rica is a beautiful country with lovely vistas as one drives through the countryside. The birding areas are well maintained. The hotels and lodges were comfortable, some more so than others. Everyone was very friendly and helpful. Macadam roads were being laid in places that had been only dirt roads. However, the drive into Monteverde is still mainly on dirt. No matter what they are made of, the drive is definitely worth it to see the abundance of birds! I cannot wait to return!
Birdlist:
COMMON NAME | SCIENTIFIC NAME |
Great Tinamou | Tinamus major |
Least Grebe | Tachybaptus dominicus |
Brown Pelican | Pelecanus occidentalis |
Anhinga | Anhinga anhinga |
Great Blue Heron | Ardea herodias |
Great Egret | Ardea alba |
Tricolored Heron | Egretta tricolor |
Little Blue Heron | Egretta caerulea |
Snowy Egret | Egretta thula |
Cattle Egret | Bubulcus ibis |
Green Heron | Butorides virescens |
*Boat-billed Heron | Cochlearius cochlearius |
*Fasciated Tiger-Heron | Tigrisoma fasciatum |
Wood Stork | Mycteria americana |
White Ibis | Eudocimus albus |
Black Vulture | Coragyps atratus |
Turkey Vulture | Cathartes aura |
Osprey | Pandion haliaetus |
*Hook-billed Kite | Chondrohierax uncinatus |
Swallow-tailed Kite | Elanoides forficatus |
Black-shouldered Kite | Elanus caeruleus |
Double-toothed Kite | Harpagus bidentatus |
*Barred Hawk | Leucopternis princeps |
Gray Hawk | Asturina nitida |
Broad-winged Hawk | Buteo platypterus |
Short-tailed Hawk | Buteo brachyurus |
Red-tailed Hawk | Buteojamaicensis |
*Barred Forest-Falcon | Micrastur ruficollis |
*Gray-headed Chachalaca | Ortalis cinereiceps |
*Crested Guan | Penelope purpurascens |
*Black Guan | Chamaepetes unicolor |
*Black-breasted Wood-Quail | Odontophorus leucolaemus |
Gray-necked Wood-Rail | Aramides cajanea |
Purple Gallinule | Porphyrula martinica |
Northern Jacana | Jacana spinosa |
Black-bellied Plover | Pluvialis squatarola |
Whimbrel | Numenius phaeopus |
Spotted Sandpiper | Actitis macularia |
Willet | Catoptrophorus semipalmatus |
Least Sandpiper | Calidris minutilla |
Rock Dove | Columba livia |
White-crowned Pigeon | Columba leucocephala |
*Pale-vented Pigeon | Columba cayennensis |
*Red-billed Pigeon | Columba flavirostris |
*Short-billed Pigeon | Columba nigrirostris |
White-winged Dove | Zenaida asiatica |
Common Ground-Dove | Columbina passerina |
Ruddy Ground-Dove | Columbina talpacoti |
Inca Dove | Columbina inca |
Blue Ground-Dove | Claravis pretiosa |
White-tipped Dove | Leptotila verreauxi |
*Gray-chested Dove | Leptotila cassini |
*Chiriqui Quail-Dove | Geotrygon chiriquensis |
*Scarlet Macaw | Ara macao |
*Crimson-fronted Parakeet | Aratinga finschi |
Olive-throated Parakeet | Aratinga nana |
*Orange-fronted Parakeet | Aratinga canicularis |
*Orange-chinned Parakeet | Brotogeris jugularis |
*White-crowned Parrot | Pionus senilis |
White-fronted Parrot | Amazona albifrons |
*Red-lored Parrot | Amazona autumnalis |
*Mealy Parrot | Amazona farinosa |
Squirrel Cuckoo | Piaya cayana |
Groove-billed Ani | Crotophaga sulcirostris |
*Pacific Screech-Owl | Otus cooperi |
*Bare-shanked Screech-Owl | Otus clarkii |
*Andean Pygmy-Owl | Glaucidium jardinii |
*Short-tailed Nighthawk | Lurocalis semitorquatus |
*Lesser Nighthawk | Chordeiles acutipennis |
Pauraque | Nyctidromus albicollis |
White-collared Swift | Streptoprocne zonaris |
Band-rumped Swift | Chaetura spinicauda |
Vaux's Swift | Chaetura vauxi |
*Bronzy Hermit | Glaucis aenea |
Green Hermit | Phaethornis guy |
Eastern Long-tailed Hermit | Phaethornis superciliosus |
*Little Hermit | Phaethornis longuemareus |
*Scaly-breasted Hummingbird Phaeochroa | cuvierii |
*Violet Sabrewing | Campylopterus hemileucurus |
White-necked Jacobin | Florisuga mellivora |
*Green Violet-ear | Colibri thalassinus |
*Violet-headed Hummingbird | Klais guimeti |
*Black-crested Coquette | Lophornis helenae |
*Green Thorntail | Discosuraconversii |
*Canivet's Emerald | Chlorostilbon canivetii |
*Coppery-headed Emerald | Elvira cupreiceps |
*Stripe-tailed Hummingbird | Eupherusa eximia |
*Violet-crowned Woodnymph | Thalurania colombica |
*Blue-throated Goldentail | Hylocharis eliciae |
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird | Amazilia tzacatl |
*Cinnamon Hummingbird | Amazilia rutila |
*Blue-chested Hummingbird | Polyerata amabilis |
*Steely-vented Hummingbird | Saucerottia saucerrottei |
*White-throated Mountain-gem | Lampornis castaneoventris |
*Purple-throated Mountain-gem | Lampornis calolaema |
*Green-crowned Brilliant | Heliodoxa jacula |
Magnificent Hummingbird | Eugenes fulgens |
*Purple-crowned Fairy | Heliothryx barroti |
*Magenta-throated Woodstar | Calliphlox bryantae |
*Scintillant Hummingbird | Selasphorus scintilla |
*Black-headed Trogon | Trogon melanocephalus |
Violaceous Trogon | Trogon violaceus |
*Orange-bellied Trogon | Trogon aurantiiventris |
*Slaty-tailed Trogon | Trogon massena |
*Resplendent Quetzal | Pharomachrus mocinno |
Belted Kingfisher | Ceryle alcyon |
Ringed Kingfisher | Ceryle torquata |
Green Kingfisher | Chloroceryle americana |
Blue-crowned Motmot | Momotus momota |
Broad-billed Motmot | Electron platyrhynchum |
*Turquoise-browed Motmot | Eumomota superciliosa |
Rufous-tailed Jacamar | Galbula ruficauda |
White-necked Puffbird | Notharchus macrorhynchos |
*Lanceolated Monklet | Micromonacha lanceolata |
*Red-headed Barbet | Eubucco bourcierii |
*Prong-billed Barbet | Semnornis frantzii |
*Emerald Toucanet | Aulacorhynchus prasinus |
Keel-billed Toucan | Ramphastos sulfuratus |
*Chestnut-mandibled Toucan | Ramphastos swainsonii |
Acorn Woodpecker | Melanerpes formicivorus |
*Black-cheeked Woodpecker | Melanerpes pucherani |
*Red-crowned Woodpecker | Melanerpes rubricapillus |
*Hoffmann's Woodpecker | Melanerpes hoffmannii |
*Smoky-brown Woodpecker | Veniliornis fumigatus |
Golden-olive Woodpecker | Piculus rubiginosus |
Lineated Woodpecker | Dryocopus lineatus |
*Pale-billed Woodpecker | Campephilus guatemalensis |
*Slaty Spinetail | Synallaxis brachyura |
*Red-faced Spinetail | Cranioleuca erythrops |
*Spotted Barbtail | Premnoplex brunnescens |
*Ruddy Treerunner | Margarornis rubiginosus |
*Plain Xenops | Xenops minutus |
*Lineated Foliage-gleaner | Syndactyla subalaris |
*Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner | Automolus ochrolaemus |
Gray-throated Leaftosser | Sclerurus albigularis |
Plain-brown Woodcreeper | Dendrocincla fuliginosa |
Ruddy Woodcreeper | Dendrocincla homochroa |
*Olivaceous Woodcreeper | Sittasomus griseicapillus |
*Wedge-billed Woodcreeper | Glyphorynchus spirurus |
*Northern Barred-Woodcreeper | Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae |
Buff-throated Woodcreeper | Xiphorhynchus guttatus |
Spotted Woodcreeper | Xiphorhynchus erythropygius |
*Streak-headed Woodcreeper | Lepidocolaptes souleyetii |
*Spot-crowned Woodcreeper | Lepidocolaptes affinis |
*Brown-billed Scythebill | Campylorhamphus pusillus |
*Fasciated Antshrike | Cymbilaimus lineatus |
Great Antshrike | Taraba major |
Barred Antshrike | Thamnophilus doliatus |
*Black-hooded Antshrike | Thamnophilus bridgesi |
*Russet Antshrike | Thamnistes anabatinus |
*Streak-crowned Antvireo | Dysithamnus striaticeps |
*Slaty Antwren | Myrmotherula schisticolor |
*Chestnut-backed Antbird | Myrmeciza exsul |
*Immaculate Antbird | Myrmeciza immaculata |
*Spotted Antbird | Hylophylax naevioides |
*Snowy Cotinga | Carpodectes nitidus |
*Bare-necked Umbrellabird | Cephalopterus glabricollis |
*Three-wattled Bellbird | Procnias tricarunculata |
*White-collared Manakin | Manacus candei |
*Orange-collared Manakin | Manacus aurantiacus |
*White-ruffed Manakin | Corapipo altera |
*Long-tailed Manakin | Chiroxiphia linearis |
*White-crowned Manakin | Pipra pipra |
*Red-capped Manakin | Pipra mentalis |
*Greenish Elaenia | Myiopagis viridicata |
Yellow-bellied Elaenia | Elaenia flavogaster |
*Mountain Elaenia | Elaenia frantzii |
*Torrent Tyrannulet | Serpophaga cinerea |
*Ochre-bellied Flycatcher | Mionectes oleagineus |
*Paltry Tyrannulet | Zimmerius vilissimus |
*Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant | Myiornis atricapillus |
*Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant | Lophotriccus pileatus |
*Northern Bentbill | Oncostoma cinereigulare |
*Common Tody-Flycatcher | Todirostrum cinereum |
*Yellow-olive Flycatcher | Tolmomyias sulphurescens |
*Yellow-margined Flycatcher | Tolmomyias assimilis |
*Royal Flycatcher | Onychorhynchus coronatus |
Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher | Myiobius sulphureipygius |
*Black-tailed Flycatcher | Myiobius atricaudus |
Tufted Flycatcher | Mitrephanes phaeocercus |
*Dark Pewee | Contopus lugubris |
*Ochraceous Pewee | Contopusochraceus |
Tropical Pewee | Contopus cinereus |
Yellow-bellied Flycatcher | Empidonax flaviventris |
*Acadian Flycatcher | Empidonax virescens |
*Yellowish Flycatcher | Empidonax flavescens |
*Black-capped Flycatcher | Empidonax atriceps |
Black Phoebe | Sayornis nigricans |
*Long-tailed Tyrant | Colonia colonus |
*Bright-rumped Attila | Attila spadiceus |
*Rufous Mourner | Rhytipterna holerythra |
Dusky-capped Flycatcher | Myiarchus tuberculifer |
Great Kiskadee | Pitangus sulphuratus |
Boat-billed Flycatcher | Megarynchus pitangua |
Social Flycatcher | Myiozetetes similis |
*Gray-capped Flycatcher | Myiozetetes granadensis |
*Golden-bellied Flycatcher | Myiodynastes hemichrysus |
Streaked Flycatcher | Myiodynastes maculatus |
*Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher | Myiodynastes luteiventris |
Piratic Flycatcher | Legatus leucophaius |
Tropical Kingbird | Tyrannus melancholicus |
Gray Kingbird | Tyrannus dominicensis |
Scissor-tailed Flycatcher | Tyrannus forficatus |
*Thrush-like Schiffornis | Schiffornis turdinus |
*Cinnamon Becard | Pachyramphus cinnamomeus |
*White-winged Becard | Pachyramphus polychopterus |
Rose-throated Becard | Pachyramphus aglaiae |
Masked Tityra | Tityra semifasciata |
*Black-crowned Tityra | Tityra inquisitor |
Gray-breasted Martin | Progne chalybea |
Mangrove Swallow | Tachycineta albilinea |
*Blue-and-white Swallow | Pygochelidon cyanoleuca |
Northern Rough-winged Swallow | Stelgidopteryx serripennis |
Barn Swallow | Hirundo rustica |
*Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher | Ptilogonys caudatus |
*American Dipper | Cinclus mexicanus |
*Band-backed Wren | Campylorhynchus zonatus |
*Rufous-naped Wren | Campylorhynchus rufinucha |
*Black-throated Wren | Thryothorus atrogularis |
Rufous-breasted Wren | Thryothorus rutilus |
*Bay Wren | Thryothorus nigricapillus |
*Stripe-breasted Wren | Thryothorus thoracicus |
*Banded Wren | Thryothorus pleurostictus |
*Rufous-and-white Wren | Thryothorus rufalbus |
*Plain Wren | Thryothorus modestus |
House Wren | Troglodytes aedon |
*Ochraceous Wren | Troglodytes ochraceus |
*White-breasted Wood-Wren | Henicorhina leucosticta |
*Gray-breasted Wood-Wren | Henicorhina leucophrys |
*Nightingale Wren | Microcerculus philomela |
*Black-faced Solitaire | Myadestes melanops |
*Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush | Catharus aurantiirostris |
*Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush | Catharus fuscater |
*Black-headed Nightingale-Thrush | Catharus mexicanus |
Swainson's Thrush | Catharus ustulatus |
*Sooty Robin | Turdus nigrescens |
*Mountain Robin | Turdus plebejus |
*Pale-vented Thrush | Turdus obsoletus |
Clay-colored Robin | Turdus grayi |
*Tropical Gnatcatcher | Polioptila plumbea |
*White-throated Robin | Irania gutturalis |
*White-throated Magpie-Jay | Calocitta formosa |
Brown Jay | Cyanocorax morio |
*Azure-hooded Jay | Cyanolyca cucullata |
*Yellow-winged Vireo | Vireo carmioli |
*Brown-capped Vireo | Vireo leucophrys |
*Yellow-green Vireo | Vireo flavoviridis |
*Lesser Greenlet | Hylophilus decurtatus |
Rufous-browed Peppershrike | Cyclarhis gujanensis |
Golden-winged Warbler | Vermivora chrysoptera |
Tennessee Warbler | Vermivora peregrina |
*Flame-throated Warbler | Parula gutturalis |
Tropical Parula | Parula pitiayumi |
Yellow Warbler | Dendroica petechia |
Chestnut-sided Warbler | Dendroica pensylvanica |
Black-throated Green Warbler | Dendroica virens |
Northern Waterthrush | Seiurus noveboracensis |
*Olive-crowned Yellowthroat | Geothlypis semiflava |
Wilson's Warbler | Wilsonia pusilla |
*Slate-throated Redstart | Myioborus miniatus |
*Collared Redstart | Myioborus torquatus |
Golden-crowned Warbler | Basileuterus culicivorus |
Rufous-capped Warbler | Basileuterus rufifrons |
*Three-striped Warbler | Basileuterus tristriatus |
*Buff-rumped Warbler | Basileuterus fulvicauda |
Bananaquit | Coereba flaveola |
*Common Bush-Tanager | Chlorospingus ophthalmicus |
*Sooty-capped Bush-Tanager | Chlorospingus pileatus |
*Black-and-yellow Tanager | Chrysothlypis chrysomelaena |
*Olive Tanager | Chlorothraupis carmioli |
White-shouldered Tanager | Tachyphonus luctuosus |
White-lined Tanager | Tachyphonus rufus |
Hepatic Tanager | Piranga flava |
Summer Tanager | Piranga rubra |
*Flame-colored Tanager | Piranga bidentata |
*Crimson-collared Tanager | Ramphocelus sanguinolentus |
Passerini's Tanager | Ramphocelus passerinii |
Blue-gray Tanager | Thraupis episcopus |
Palm Tanager | Thraupis palmarum |
*Scrub Euphonia | Euphonia affinis |
*Yellow-crowned Euphonia | Euphonia luteicapilla |
*Yellow-throated Euphonia | Euphonia hirundinacea |
*Olive-backed Euphonia | Euphonia gouldi |
*Tawny-capped Euphonia | Euphonia anneae |
*Golden-browed Chlorophonia | Chlorophonia callophrys |
*Plain-colored Tanager | Tangara inornata |
*Emerald Tanager | Tangara florida |
*Silver-throated Tanager | Tangara icterocephala |
*Speckled Tanager | Tangara guttata |
Bay-headed Tanager | Tangara gyrola |
*Golden-hooded Tanager | Tangara larvata |
*Spangle-cheeked Tanager | Tangara dowii |
*Scarlet-thighed Dacnis | Dacnis venusta |
Blue Dacnis | Dacnis cayana |
Green Honeycreeper | Chlorophanes spiza |
*Shining Honeycreeper | Cyanerpes lucidus |
Red-legged Honeycreeper | Cyanerpes cyaneus |
Blue-black Grassquit | Volatinia jacarina |
*Variable Seedeater | Sporophila corvina |
*Nicaraguan Seed-Finch | Oryzoborus nuttingi |
*Yellow-faced Grassquit | Tiaris olivacea |
*Yellow-thighed Finch | Pselliophorus tibialis |
*White-naped Brush-Finch | Atlapetes albinucha |
*Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch | Buarremon brunneinucha |
*Orange-billed Sparrow | Arremon aurantiirostris |
*Black-striped Sparrow | Arremonops conirostris |
*White-eared Ground-Sparrow | Melozone leucotis |
*Rufous-collared Sparrow | Zonotrichia capensis |
Grayish Saltator | Saltator coerulescens |
Buff-throated Saltator | Saltator maximus |
*Black-headed Saltator | Saltator atriceps |
*Black-faced Grosbeak | Caryothraustes poliogaster |
*Black-thighed Grosbeak | Pheucticus tibialis |
Rose-breasted Grosbeak | Pheucticus ludovicianus |
Blue-black Grosbeak | Cyanocompsa cyanoides |
Blue Grosbeak | Guiraca caerulea |
Eastern Meadowlark | Sturnella magna |
Great-tailed Grackle | Quiscalus mexicanus |
*Bronzed Cowbird | Molothrus aeneus |
*Yellow-tailed Oriole | Icterus mesomelas |
Baltimore Oriole | Icterus galbula |
*Black-cowled Oriole | Icterus dominicensis |
Yellow-billed Cacique | Amblycercus holosericeus |
*Scarlet-rumped Cacique | Cacicus uropygialis |
Montezuma Oropendola | Gymnostinops montezuma |
*Yellow-bellied Siskin | Carduelis xanthogastra |
House Sparrow | Passer domesticus |
327 species
197 lifers (indicated by *)
Linda Lee Baker
Bonita Springs, Florida, USA
LLBaker@aol.com