29 October - 20 November 2000

By Markus Lagerqvist
 

INTRODUCTION

Although there are an overwhelming amount of trip reports on Costa Rica to be found on the Internet I hope there might be some new input, or at least inspiration, to be found in this one. Even though quite a few of the places visited are on the standard repertoire, others are seldom visited or commented upon.

Another aspect is that very few birders visit Costa Rica during October - November since these months coincide with the culmination of the rainy season. My reason for choosing this season is that I really didn't have any choice! My father had been working in Central America for a while and suggested to me that I should come down for a few weeks at the end of his contract.

The trip report consists of three parts; a diary, a summary of my impressions with a few recommendations and finally a trip list of all the birds recorded - all in all 426 species.
 

29/10 SWEDEN - CASA RÍO BLANCO

Arriving at Aeropuerto Juan Santamaría before schedule (18.15) gave us ample time to drive to Casa Río Blanco - just some 65 km away - so that we didn't have to spend the first valuable morning hours in the car.

However we soon learned not to depend upon everything turning out as planned. Driving north from San José into Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo we were pulled over by a police officer informing us that the road was closed due to a landslide (we later learned they are quite common on this road). Since we didn't want to spend the night in some hotel hoping for the road to be cleared by the morning our only other option was to take the 130-km detour over Turrialba in the middle of the night. This took some five extra hours and we just barely found the lodge arriving after midnight. What a start!
 

30/10 CASA RÍO BLANCO (EXCURSION TO QUEBRADA GONZALES)

After a few hours of sleep we woke up to the sound of pouring rain smattering on our roof. Venturing out into the rain I soon found my first Costa Rican record - an Orange-billed Sparrow.

Getting an early breakfast proved quite difficult and a little later than preferable we started out on the lodge's short trail system - by now the rain had seized and the forest was really beautiful with the rocky Río Blanco running through it. Unfortunately it was also very quiet and most birds were seen in the cultivated areas close to the lodge or in the lodge's garden, these included Keel-billed Toucan, Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer, White-necked Jacobin, Long-tailed Hermit, Buff-rumped Warbler and Olive-backed Euphonia.

Since the trails proved unproductive we decided to head over to the nearby Quebrada Gonzales in the Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo. Unfortunately the rain started pouring down quite heavily but we headed out on the well-signed loop-trail anyway and managed to see a few species like Yellow-crowned Euphonia, Black-faced Grosbeak, Collared Aracari and a pack of Central American Spider Monkeys. However, the forest was splendid and I'd really like to return here an early morning under better conditions.
 

31/10 CASA RÍO BLANCO - RANCHO NATURALISTA (EXCURSION TO COLONIA VIRGEN DEL SOCORRO/EL MIRADOR)

This morning we decided to head to Colonia Virgen del Socorro some 80 km away. Due to the late breakfast (07.30) and the driving distance we again missed out on the early morning birding and upon our arrival the forest was all but alive. Still a very pleasant forest and we did get Slate-coloured Grosbeak and Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant.

Finding the way is a bit tricky. If you're driving south from La Virgen you should pass Cariblanco and then look out for a small toll station in the middle of the road (!). Drive pass it and over a small bridge then turn to the left shortly after on to a very steep and un-signed dirt road. Keep on driving till you come to an old rusty bridge and park before it (you wouldn't like to pass, trust me) and the short dead-end trail is to the right just before the bridge.

After spending the morning at La Colonia we decided to have lunch at the Restaurante El Mirador in nearby Cinchona. Although the food was good the place owns its fame to the all but unpopular hummingbird feeders. During lunch we recorded no less than ten species (!) e.g. Brown Violet-ear, Green Thorntail and the endemic Coppery-headed Emerald. We later heard from our guide in Monteverde that many feeders are poorly maintained and transmit parasites to the hummingbirds that can prove fatal. I don't know if this is the case with El Mirador but it certainly makes you think twice about promoting the business.

Close to Cinchona you find the Cascada La Paz which is a reliable locale for the Torrent Tyrannulet.

Back at Casa Río Blanco we did a last scan of the gardens hoping to find the resident Keel-billed Motmot before heading to Rancho Naturalista. We still didn't have any luck with the species but did find a Rufous Motmot perched just outside the cabin.

The distance to Rancho Naturalista is only about 60 km but the last 20 km the road slowly winds itself through the mountains and again we had to find our way in the darkness. Arriving at Rancho we got a splendid reception with a family style dinner waiting for us.
 

1/11 RANCHO NATURALISTA

The routine at Rancho is to start the day at 06.00 birding from their balcony. This can be a very rewarding experience and we quickly recorded about thirty species e.g. Grey-headed Chachalaca, the beautiful Snowcap, the sought after Black-crested Coquette, Violet-headed Hummingbird, White-naped Brush-Finch and Melodious Blackbird.

After an excellent breakfast we headed out on the extensive trail system with the resident guide Matt Denton. The weather was fair with only some occasional light rain and the birding was great. Thanks to Matt we were also able to identify quite a few species we would probably have missed without his extraordinary skills. After lunch we took a new turn on the property's trail system - the weather was less co-operative but we still got some neat sightings including a rare perched Chuck-will's-widow and boosted the day-list to 112 species! Among the species recorded on the trails were Great Tinamou, Purplish-backed Quail-dove, Broad-billed Motmot, Cocoa Woodcreeper, Brown-billed Scythebill, Fulvous-breasted Antpitta, White-collared and White-crowned Manakin, Eastern Wood-pewee and Tawny-chested Flycatcher. In the evening we had another lavish dinner together with the owner Cathy Erb and her family - they really make you feel welcome!
 

2/11 RANCHO NATURALISTA (EXCURSION TO PARQUE NACIONAL TAPANTÍ)

Since Rancho Naturalista specialises in accommodating bird-watchers they can arrange breakfast at any time. This morning we started out with oatmeal and tropical fruits at 03.30 in order to get to Parque Nacional Tapantí at a decent hour. Matt accompanied us and showed us a good spot for Dark Pewee at a bridge crossing before entering the park.

Tapantí is a very wet high altitude forest and you mainly bird it going by car on a gravel road that passes through it, making stops to walk short trails. The forest is loaded with epiphytes, mosses and tree ferns and is perhaps the most beautiful we saw in Costa Rica - not to be missed!

The birding proved excellent and we could tick off both Red-headed and Prong-billed Barbets already at the entrance! The next stop was the Sendero Árboles Caídos that offered great views of the Streak-breasted Treehunter.

Next stop was the Sendero La Pava, and just at the beginning of the trail we found a perched Green-fronted Lancebill and further down White-throated Spadebill and Black-faced Solitaire.

Along the gravel road we suddenly heard a Yellow-eared Toucanet calling. It was too far away to be seen but while looking for it we discovered two radiant Golden-browed Cholorophonias and an Emerald Toucanet. A bit further on you pass an "authorised personnel only" sign but the park rangers didn't seem to mind us passing it. Just past an iron bridge (supposedly a good spot for Sooty-faced Finch although we missed it) you can park the car and walk up a trail to the right. As we had walked a few km it started to rain heavily (expect it in Tapantí) and we got really soaked. The trail was still very rewarding and we managed to see e.g. Red-faced Spinetail, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, the target Silvery-fronted Tapaculo and Eye-ringed Flatbill.

On the way back we had planned to stop at the Kiri Lodge just outside the park to look for the Black-bellied Hummingbird but the rain was too heavy. This was probably the worst setback of the trip since I really wanted that species! The rain also deterred us from seeing the Bat Falcons at the Cachí dam but we did get a lone Killdeer at the nearby Río Birris Reservoir.
 

3/11 RANCHO NATURALISTA - SAVEGRE MOUNTAIN LODGE

Coffee on the balcony and a couple of hours on the trails produced some new species like Sulphur-winged Parakeet, Dot-winged and Checker-throated Antwren and White-ruffed Manakin and as we were preparing to leave we heard a Black Hawk-eagle that was soaring over the tree tops.

In order to get to the Savegre Mountain Lodge in good time we left before lunch and ate a picnic style lunch from Rancho by the road. Since the lodge was marked on our road map we didn't bother to read any instructions on how to get there. From the map you got the impression that you should go to Providencia - which we did. This turned out to be a big mistake and the detour along the almost uninhabited never-ending and progressively deteriorating dirt road cost us many hours - again we arrived after dark! Make sure to fill up the tank at Cartago sine there are no gas stations in the mountains!
 

4/11 SAVEGRE MOUNTAIN LODGE (EXCURSION TO CERRO DE LA MUERTE)

There was no guide available for the morning so we decided to explore the immediate surroundings of the lodge and tick off some of the easier species like Grey-tailed Mountain-gem, Volcano and Scintillant Hummingbird but also found a Western Wood-Pewee and the rare Peg-billed Finch.

After a good lunch we met up with Marino Chacón, not only one of the owners but an avid and very enthusiastic birder! Before we headed up to Cerro de la Muerte he showed us a Fiery-throated Hummingbird just outside one of the cabins. Along the gravel road just a few km from the lodge we then stopped at some fruiting trees frequented by Resplendent Quetzals and found no less than seven females and two males - quite a treat! A bit further on we found a beautiful Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher.

When we reached Cerro de la Muerte at about 3 500 m it had started to rain and was quite chilly. We pulled the car over just a few hundred metres after the turnoff from the Interamericana and stumbled over our main target bird - the Volcano Junco. Before we headed back we also saw Timberline Wren, Sooty Robin and Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush.
 

5/11 SAVEGRE MOUNTAIN LODGE

Before breakfast we checked out the flowering and fruiting trees close to the diner and found a male Flame-throated Warbler and a Yellow-winged Vireo. We then decided to do some more birding by car along the gravel road up to the Interamericana. At one point a couple of Yellow-thighed Finches flew across the road just in front of the car and we pulled over to get a better look. This turned out to be a terrific spot and we could tick off species like Buffy Tuftedcheek, Brown-capped Vireo, Townsend's Warbler and Elegant Euphonia.

The afternoon we spent on the lodge's trail system going up through the majestic oak forests. Marino really proved his enthusiasm venturing straight through the thick vegetation trying to find a calling Spotted Wood-quail. We never saw the bird but did get a splendid view of the difficult Wrenthrush.

Back down at the lodge it started to rain again but I did find two Large-footed Finches just outside our cabin! This is a species that you normally find up at the páramo.
 

6/11 SAVEGRE - SAN ISIDRO - EL BRUJO - ESQUINAS RIVER LODGE

Since we had a rather long drive (app. 220 km) to the Esquinas River Lodge we decided to leave right after breakfast and maybe do some stops on the way.

We had lunch at the Hotel del Sur in San Isidro de El General - supposedly one of the best sites in the country for the Snowy-bellied Hummingbird. We didn't have any luck but did find a Charming Hummingbird. We also made a short stop at El Brujo in search of the Wedge-tailed Grass-finch but still didn't have any luck.

When we arrived at Esquinas later in the afternoon it was raining heavily. We thought it was just the usual afternoon shower but were informed that it had rained almost without a break for the last week. Not what we wanted to hear!
 

7/11 ESQUINAS RIVER LODGE / PARQUE NACIONAL PIEDRAS BLANCAS

When we woke up in the morning it had seized to rain the sun was shining! We decided to walk the Sendero los Pájaros before breakfast. Since it was the rainy season the nearby biological station was closed and the only guide available turned out to be more into plants than birds. When he misidentified a Rose-throated Becard as a Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher (!) we decided not to trust his "birding skills". Still it was nice to have a guide who knew his way through the somewhat badly signed trail.

The Sendero los Pájaros goes through secondary forest and orchards and is pretty easy to bird. Among the birds sighted were Spectacled Owl, Fiery-billed Aracari, Black-throated Trogon, Chestnut-backed Antbird, Orange-collared Manakin and White-vented and Spot-crowned Euphonia.

After breakfast we decided to head into the primary forest on the trails leading into Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas in search of the endemic Black-cheeked Ant-Tanager. The trails were steep and muddy and the sun kept shining relentlessly. The forest was very quiet and in the first hour we hardly saw any birds at all and soon started to despair. However the day was to be saved as we heard an Ant-tanager up ahead. We soon located the bird - a much-appreciated Black-cheeked Ant-Tanager showing itself off just a few metres from the trail in clear sight! The only other new species we saw on the trail, apart from a lethally venomous Eyelash Viper, was a Black-striped Woodcreeper!

After lunch we decided to try out the shortcut dirt road leading to Golfito. This turned out to be quite a bad choice as the road was terribly muddy and almost too much even for our jeep. When we were finally approaching Golfito the road just disappeared due to a landslide and we had to go back the same way. As to the birding it wasn't that good but we did get e.g. Laughing Falcon, Yellow-headed Caracara and Southern Beardless Tyrannulet.
 

8/11 ESQUINAS RIVER LODGE (EXCURSION TO WILSON BOTANICAL GARDEN / GOLFITO)

Since the trails at Esquinas didn't prove that productive we decided to head up to the Wilson Botanical Garden in San Vito for some of the regional specialities. We were especially hoping for some good hummingbirds. However most of the Heliconias weren't flowering and the result was pretty meagre.

After a good lunch at Pizzería Lilliana in San Vito we went down to Golfito (by the main road) where we had both Ringed, Belted and Amazon Kingfisher in the mangroves. We also took a short drive up into Reserva Forestal Golfito that surrounds the entire town but didn't find any new species.

On the way back we were pulled over by a bunch of heavily armed police officers that insisted on searching through our jeep - including our bags - not very pleasant.
 

9/11 ESQUINAS RIVER LODGE - TARCOL LODGE

This night I got some sort of stomach disease and felt quite nauseous in the morning. Therefore we decided not to do any early morning excursions but instead head for Tárcoles right away. We had read that parts the coastal road was in quite bad condition but we decided to take it anyway since it is much shorter. This turned out to be a good choice - most of the road was excellent and the only bad part was the 40 km between Dominical and Quepos. En route we made a short stop on the bridge over Río Barú to stretch our legs and scan the riverbed, little expecting to find what might be the rarest bird of the trip - a Hudsonian Godwit!

Tarcol Lodge wasn't signed and we had to ask our way through Tárcoles in order to find the place. Upon arrival we were received by Cathy from Rancho Naturalista and had a light lunch with her and the resident guide Andrew Wheelan. Scanning the mudflats from the lodge's balcony turned out quite productive and we could add e.g. Yellow-crowned Night-Heron, American Golden, Semipalmated, Wilson's and Collared Plover, Greater Yellowlegs and Caspian Tern to the growing trip list.
 

10/11 TARCOL LODGE / RESERVA BIOLÓGICA CARARA

Before breakfast we took a walk on the lodge's short trail looking for some of the mangrove specialities. We didn't find the target Mangrove Hummingbird but did see Scaly-breasted Hummingbird and Yellow-throated Vireo. Another, less desired acquaintance were the chiggers that frequent the grassy areas along the trail. Chiggers are mites that won't do you any real harm but whose "bites" will itch for weeks.

After breakfast we drove to Reserva Biológica Carara to walk the HQ Trail. The trail is pretty difficult to bird and since Andrew had arrived from the US only a week ago it was quite a test for him as well. We found the birding pretty slow but did see a few nice species like Royal Flycatcher, Golden-crowned Spadebill, a lek of Orange-collared Manakins plus a Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth. Back at the lodge we had a Panama Flycatcher almost at the doorstep.

After a good lunch we once again headed to Carara - this time to try out the Sendero Natural Laguna Meandrica (River Trail). When we arrived at Carara it had started to rain quite heavily but we decided to try it out anyway. Here you really needed rubber boots since parts of the trail were hard to distinguish from a river! In spite of the bad weather we did see quite a few good birds including Boat-billed Heron, Crane Hawk and Least Flycatcher.
 

11/11 TARCOL LODGE / RESERVA BIOLÓGICA CARARA

Since the River Trail was that promising the day before in spite of the rain we decided to try it out once more. This time the weather was co-operating and we had a really good morning with species such as Little Tinamou, Least Grebe, the rare Lesser Scaup, Double-toothed Kite, Purple-crowned Fairy, Blue-throated Goldentail, Long-tailed Manakin and Northern Bentbill.

In the afternoon we tried out the road up by the Hotel Villa Lapas where they were constructing a system of canopy walks. We were allowed to try the only completed one without charge and it might be pretty neat when it's completed. As for the birding it was pretty bad, the only new species being a White-tailed Hawk and a two Canada Warblers. We also made a short stop at the bridge over Río Tárcoles where you can sometimes see Yellow-billed Cotingas - we didn't.
 

12/11 TARCOL LODGE - PLAYA GRANDE

Before leaving Tárcoles we made a last scan from the balcony and once again walked the mangrove trail. We still couldn't find the Mangrove Hummingbird but did see Lesser Yellowlegs, Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, Black-headed Trogon, Northern Scrub Flycatcher and "Mangrove Warbler".

Our next stop was Playa Grande on the Península de Nicoya - famous as a nesting ground for the gigantic Leatherback Turtles. Although we had to wait until 02.00 for them to show up it was definitely worth it!
 

13/11 PLAYA GRANDE - HACIENDA SOLIMAR

After a few extra hours of sleep we had breakfast and then left for Hacienda Solimar since the birding at Playa Grande didn't seem worth the effort. We decided to head south over Santa Cruz and the Tempisque Ferry and the road turned out to be quite good.

We arrived at Hacienda Solimar after lunch and had time to take a short walk in the vicinities where we found e.g. Cinnamon Hummingbird, Canivet's Emerald and Acadian Flycatcher. In the garden we had an odd-looking, roosting Pacific Screech-Owl, Plain-capped Starthroat and Ruby-throated Hummingbird.
 

14/11 HACIENDA SOLIMAR

After breakfast we headed out into the tropical dry forest with the resident guide Demitrio Peralta. He turned out to be terrific at imitating birdcalls. Every once in a while he stopped and started calling like a Pygmy-owl and within minutes the trees around us were full of angry birds looking for the owl! This way he attracted Guanacaste specialities like Scrub Euphonia, Northern Beardless Tyrannulet and Spot-breasted Oriole. Along the road we also found two Double-striped Thick-knees and a whole family of Crested Bobwhite.

After lunch we put on our rubber boots (a loan from Tarcol Lodge) and drove to the nearby Laguna. Here Demitrio led us strait through a swamp full of thorny vegetation. You had to watch every step not to get stuck in the mud or get your boots over-flooded! On one occasion I nearly stepped on a Crocodile only exposing itself by a few water bubbles from its breathing! Quite an adventure but lots of fun! The birds sighted included Purple Gallinule, Snail Kite, Pale-billed Woodpecker and Red-winged Blackbird.
 

15/11 HACIENDA SOLIMAR

This morning we headed to the mangroves bordering the Parque Nacional Palo Verde for our last shot at the endemic Mangrove Hummingbird. Demitrio started his usual Pygmy-Owl routine and soon we had a somewhat bewildered Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl staring down at us accompanied by a couple of angry Mangrove Hummingbirds!

The afternoon we spent relaxing by the swimming pool at the Hacienda waiting for the tide to come in so that we would catch as many shorebirds as possible at the salt pans at the nearby Finca Conchal. The tide was quite late but in the last hour of daylight we saw lots of shorebirds, gulls and terns like e.g. Marbled Godwit, Long-billed Dowitcher, Least, Western and Semipalmated Sandpipers, Gull-billed and Royal Terns and Black Skimmers. We also saw at least fifty (!) Lesser Nighthawks hunting at dusk.
 

16/11 HACIENDA SOLIMAR - MONTEVERDE

Before leaving Hacienda Solimar we had time for a last excursion through the dry forest looking for the few target birds we were still missing. Demitrio promised to find at least one of them and did find the sought after Lesser Ground-Cuckoo!

After an early lunch we left for Monteverde tackling the notoriously bad road. It didn't take as long as feared and we arrived at Hotel El Bosque in good time and decided to head up to the famous Hummingbird Gallery. Here we saw two new hummingbird species - Stripe-tailed Hummingbird and Magenta-throated Woodstar. We later learned that the feeders at the gallery are badly maintained and some of the guides don't want to bring people there!

Back at the hotel we tried to arrange a guide for the reserve for the next day but all the good ones were already booked so we decided to wait another day and go by ourselves to the Reserva Santa Elena instead.
 

17/11 MONTEVERDE (RESERVA SANTA ELENA / FINCA ECOLÓGICA)

This morning the weather was bad with quite heavy rain - we headed up to Santa Elena anyway but didn't see anything special (partly because we did so well with the high altitude species at Tapantí and Savegre).

After a rather overpriced pizza at Pizza Johnny we went to the Finca Ecológica - supposedly a good spot for Orange-bellied Trogon. By now the weather was sunny but our bad luck continued and we had to end the day without a single new species recorded! Quite a new experience that made us decide to leave Monteverde the next day - one day earlier than planned - and head down to the Caribbean lowlands instead.
 

18/11 MONTEVERDE (RESERVA BOSQUE NUBOSO MONTEVERDE) - EL GAVILÁN LODGE

We met up with our guide Samuel Arquedas outside our hotel and headed up to Reserva Monteverde. Since the reserve doesn't officially open until 07.00 we did some birding in the area close to the entrance and did find a Black Guan in a fruiting tree - one of the species we dipped in Savegre - and heard a Grey Leaftosser. We then had a quick breakfast and paid the entrance fee before we headed up towards the Continental Divide - a good place to find our main target bird - the Black-and-yellow Silky-flycatcher. There are several trails to chose from but we decided to take the Camino since it is more open and easier to bird than the other ones. The weather wasn't great - the light rain didn't bother us as much as the strong wind did. Up at the continental divide we were fascinated by the windswept dwarf forest. We heard several Black-and-yellow Silky-flycatchers calling but they wouldn't come out from their hiding. We did see two North American migrants - Yellow-bellied Sapsucker and a young female Yellow-rumped Warbler. Samuel proved to be a good birder but I think he was a bit disappointed that he didn't manage to find us more than five new species.

At 11.00 we checked out from our hotel and headed towards the Caribbean lowlands. We decided to go to the El Gavilán lodge at Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí since it had been recommended to us. The 220 km drive was pretty tiresome - especially the heavily trafficked Carretera 1 between Barranca and Naranjo. At Aguas Zarcas we had to wait for an hour due to a traffic accident and we once again arrived after dark - but this time unannounced. However we were the only guests so getting a room wasn't a problem.
 

19/11 EL GAVILÁN LODGE - INBIOPARQUE - SWEDEN

Our last day in Costa Rica and we had hoped to get some of the Caribbean lowland species we didn't see at Casa Río Blanco. Unfortunately the weather gods had other plans for us! At one point the rain actually seemed to recede and we headed out on the property - consisting of orchards and other man-made habitats bordering the Río Sarapiquí. During the short break we managed to see the lodge's main attraction - the Green Ibis and our last hummingbird - the Band-tailed Barbthroat - bringing our hummingbird count to 39 species - not too bad!

However the rain soon started pouring down again and we got totally soaked and decided to have some breakfast - consisting of oranges with orange juice and some old bread with orange marmalade! Well I guess we couldn't ask for more just turning up like this! As we were preparing to leave we discovered that one of the jeep's tyres was flat and we had no choice but to change it in the rain - once again getting totally soaked!

Leaving Puerto Viejo our bad luck continued as we were pulled over by two armed police officers wanting to inspect our car. As we were heading to the airport we had all our equipment in the car and as the officers searched through our luggage they got mighty interested in our cameras, binoculars and spotting scope. One of them even suggested that I should donate my binoculars to him! Quite an unpleasant experience but after 15 minutes of questioning they let us drive on - with all our equipment!

Since we had ample time to get to the airport we stopped for lunch at the nearby INBioparque in Santo Domingo de Heredia - a botanical garden showing the different habitats of the country and also a good place to see the Costa Rican subspecies of Prevost's Ground Sparrow. Although we didn't find the Ground-sparrow it's definitely a good place if you have a few hours to kill and they also serve a really good buffet-style lunch. Before we left we noted our last Costa Rican record - a Red-eyed Vireo.
 

SUMMARY AND RECOMMENDATIONS

Thus the time has come to summarise my impressions and try to deliver some discerning words of advice!

My major worry before departure was to what extent we would be inhibited by the weather. Well, I have to say that most of my concern came to nought. Sure, we had our share of tropical rain but most days only for one or two hours in the afternoon and I would definitely not hesitate to return any time of the year.

Another concern was that mosquitoes and other nasty bugs would thrive this time of the year. My conclusion from this trip is that if you really want to see mosquitoes you should go to the northern parts of Sweden instead! The only place in Costa Rica where they really thrived was in the dry tropical forest at Solimar.

A third concern was that the trails would be impassable, or at least would demand rubber boots, which I didn't want to bring. In retrospect that was the right choice. On 95 % of the trails your best choice would be a pair of Gore-Tex boots. They will keep you dry both from the outside and the inside and are much more comfortable to walk in. The only trails you really needed rubber boots on were the River Trail at Carara and Sendero los Pájaros at Esquinas and, of course, when venturing out into swamps or mangroves at Tarcol and Solimar.

Since I've raised the issue of what to bring I might as well make some remarks on the literature used. All you really need to bring is Stile's and Skutch's classic A Guide to the Birds of Costa Rica. However the book has some drawbacks. The most obvious one is that some of the information is out-dated, both when it comes to the status of the species in Costa Rica and to the taxonomic information. Another drawback is that some of the plates aren't really up to standards - the worst case is probably the Greenish Elaenia - but also the shorebirds should be improved and you really wish that all the Birds of Prey were depicted in flight.

As for site guides I brought Taylor's A Birders & Ecotourists Guide to Costa Rica which can be ordered on CD from http://members.home.net/birdersguide. I found it to be a nice companion although we often saw a very different set of birds than the ones listed in the guide.

Another CD that might come in handy is the Costa Rican Bird Song Sampler which contains 184 of the most often heard Costa Rican birds as well as some speciality birds - like Silvery-fronted Tapaculo, Wrenthrush and Black-cheeked Ant-Tanager. It can be ordered from www.wildsounds.co.uk.

As for the itinerary as a whole I'm quite satisfied but if I were to give some recommendations to a first time visitor I'd do a few minor changes. The major alteration would be not to include Monteverde but instead spend some more time in the Caribbean lowlands or in the Pacific Southwest. Most of the species of Monteverde you'll find at the more easily accessible and less overcrowded sites of Tapantí and Savegre.

As for the Caribbean lowlands I'm not sure what to recommend. Casa Río Blanco (http://compusource.net/rioblanco) was pleasant enough but the birding was a bit disappointing. The short time spent at El Gavilán (www.gavilanlodge.com) was rained in so I really can't rate the place but you won't get any primary forest there. However it's pretty strategically located close to many well-known sites such as Quebrada Gonzales and La Selva.

Another place I'm not really sure about is Esquinas River Lodge (www.regenwald.at). The lack of guides during the rainy season is a drawback and the trails were very steep and not that pleasurable but we did find what we came for - the Black-cheeked Ant-tanager - so I'm really glad we went there!

As for the other places I have nothing but praise. Rancho Naturalista (www.ranchonaturalista.com) was possibly the best lodge I've stayed at and their trails are great. It's also close enough to Tapantí. I'd stay at least three nights here - although the price is a bit hefty.

Savegre Mountain Lodge (www.ecotourism.co.cr or www.ranchonaturalista.com) was also great with good trails, great birding along the gravel road up to the Interamericana and close to the páramo at Cerro de la Muerte.

Tarcol Lodge (www.ranchonaturalista.com) has a low-key profile and feels more like a bed-and-breakfast than the other lodges. Although it's more expensive than the nearby Hotel Villas Lapas it has the added bonus of shore bird watching from the balcony and neighbouring mangroves.

As for the Guanacaste our first intention was to stay at Hacienda La Pacífica which would give you access to Palo Verde but since they've recently closed down we opted for Hacienda Solimar (book through Costa Rica Expeditions www.crexped.co.cr) instead. In retrospect this turned out very well and I have nothing but good things to say about the place.

Finally a note on transportation - you'll definitely feel a lot better with a 4WD with good road clearance. We rented a Jeep Cherokee from Economy Rent A Car for USD900 for three weeks. This turned out to be the perfect car and really saved us a few times - especially once in Savegre when we drove into a ditch but managed to reverse it without calling for assistance!

Anyone interested in going to Costa Rica who has any queries about the contents of this report or need telephone numbers or other details are welcome to write me at markus.lagerqvist@usa.net and I'll do my best to assist you!
 
 
 

TRIP LIST  Species follow Clements, families according to Sibley-Monroe. Records outside main destinations only noted when of special interest. Heard-only species indicated by *.

Tinamous

Tinamidae

Great Tinamou			Tinamus major
Naturalista
Little Tinamou*			Crypturellus soui
Carara

Guans

Cracidae

Grey-headed Chachalaca

Ortalis cinereiceps

Naturalista
Black Guan			Chamaepetes unicolor
Monteverde

New World Quails	Odontophoridae
Crested Bobwhite	Colinus cristatus

Solimar
Spotted Wood-Quail*	Odontophorus guttatus

Savegre
Whistling-Ducks			Dendrocygnidae
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck			Dendrocygna autumnalis

Tarcol, Solimar

Ducks and Allies			Anatidae
Blue-winged Teal			Anas discors
Tarcol
Lesser Scaup			Aythya affinis
Carara
Woodpeckers			Picidae
Acorn Woodpecker			Melanerpes formicivorus
Savegre
Black-cheeked Woodpecker			Melanerpes pucherani
Naturalista
Red-crowned Woodpecker			Melanerpes rubricapillus
Boca Río Barú
Hoffmann's Woodpecker			Melanerpes hoffmannii
Naturalista, Tarcol, Solimar
Yellow-bellied Sapsucker			Sphyrapicus varius
Monteverde
Hairy Woodpecker			Picoides villosus
Savegre
Smoky-brown Woodpecker			Veniliornis fumigatus
Naturalista
Golden-olive Woodpecker			Piculus rubiginosus
Carara
Lineated Woodpecker			Dryocopus lineatus
Tarcol
Pale-billed Woodpecker			Campephilus guatemalensis
Solimar
New World Barbets and Allies			Ramphastidae
Red-headed Barbet			Eubucco bourcierii
Tapantí
Prong-billed Barbet			Semnornis frantzii
Tapantí, Monteverde
Emerald Toucanet			Aulacorhynchus prasinus

Tapantí, Savegre, Monteverde

Collared Aracari			Pteroglossus torquatus
Naturalista
Fiery-billed Aracari			Pteroglossus frantzii
Esquinas, Golfito, Carara
Yellow-eared Toucanet*			Selenidera spectabilis
Tapantí
Keel-billed Toucan			Ramphastos sulfuratus
Río Blanco, Naturalista
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan			Ramphastos swainsonii

Río Blanco, Esquinas, Carara

Jacamars			Galbulidae
Rufous-tailed Jacamar			Galbula ruficauda

Naturalista, Carara, El Gavilán

Trogons			Trogonidae
Black-headed Trogon			Trogon melanocephalus
Tarcol, Solimar
Violaceous Trogon			Trogon violaceus
Río Blanco, Carara
Collared Trogon			Trogon collaris
Naturalista, Tapantí, Savegre
Black-throated Trogon			Trogon rufus
Esquinas
Slaty-tailed Trogon			Trogon massena
Carara
Resplendent Quetzal			Pharomachrus mocinno

Savegre

Motmots			Momotidae
Blue-crowned Motmot			Momotus momota

Esquinas, Wilson, Monteverde, INBioparque

Rufous Motmot			Baryphthengus martii
Río Blanco
Broad-billed Motmot			Electron platyrhynchum
Naturalista
Turquoise-browed Motmot			Eumomota superciliosa

Tarcol, Solimar

Cerylid Kingfishers			Cerylidae
Belted Kingfisher			Ceryle alcyon
Esquinas, Golfito, Tarcol
Ringed Kingfisher			Ceryle torquata
Golfito
Amazon Kingfisher			Chloroceryle amazona
Esquinas, Golfito, Solimar
Green Kingfisher			Chloroceryle americana

Tarcol, Solimar

American Cuckoos			Coccyzidae
Squirrel Cuckoo			Piaya cayana

Río Blanco, Naturalista, Tarcol, Solimar

Anis and Allies			Crotophagidae
Smooth-billed Ani			Crotophaga ani

Esquinas

Groove-billed Ani

Crotophaga sulcirostris

Río Blanco, Naturalista, Tarcol, Solimar, Monteverde

Roadrunners			Neomorphidae
Lesser Ground-Cuckoo			Morococcyx erythropygus

Solimar

Parrots			Psittacidae
Scarlet Macaw			Ara macao

Tarcol, Carara

Crimson-fronted Parakeet			Aratinga finschi

Naturalista, Carara

Orange-fronted Parakeet			Aratinga canicularis
Tarcol, Solimar
Sulphur-winged Parakeet*			Pyrrhura hoffmanni
Naturalista
Orange-chinned Parakeet			Brotogeris jugularis
Golfito
Brown-hooded Parrot			Pionopsitta haematotis
Naturalista, Tarcol, Carara
White-crowned Parrot			Pionus senilis
Naturalista
White-fronted Parrot			Amazona albifrons
Monteverde
Red-lored Parrot			Amazona autumnalis
Carara
Yellow-naped Parrot			Amazona auropalliata
Solimar
Mealy Parrot			Amazona farinosa

Carara

Typical Swifts			Apodidae
White-collared Swift			Streptoprocne zonaris
Río Blanco, Tapantí, Solimar
Band-rumped Swift			Chaetura spinicauda

Carara

Hummingbirds			Trochilidae
Bronzy Hermit			Glaucis aenea
Esquinas
Band-tailed Barbthroat			Threnetes ruckeri
El Gavilán
Green Hermit			Phaethornis guy

El Mirador, Naturalista, Wilson, Monteverde

Western Long-tailed Hermit			Phaethornis longirostris
Río Blanco, Esquinas, Carara
Stripe-throated Hermit			Phaethornis striigularis
Río Blanco, Naturalista
Green-fronted Lancebill			Doryfera ludovicae
Tapantí
Scaly-breasted Hummingbird			Phaeochroa cuvierii
Tarcol
Violet Sabrewing			Campylopterus hemileucurus
El Mirador, Monteverde
White-necked Jacobin			Florisuga mellivora
Río Blanco, Naturalista
Brown Violet-ear			Colibri delphinae
El Mirador
Green Violet-ear			Colibri thalassinus
El Mirador, Savegre, Monteverde
Green-breasted Mango			Anthracothorax prevostii
Naturalista, Tarcol, Carara, Solimar
Violet-headed Hummingbird			Klais guimeti
Naturalista
Black-crested Coquette			Lophornis helenae
Naturalista
Green Thorntail			Discosura conversii
El Mirador, Naturalista
Canivet's Emerald			Chlorostilbon canivetii
Solimar
Fiery-throated Hummingbird			Panterpe insignis
Savegre
Coppery-headed Emerald			Elvira cupreiceps
El Mirador, Monteverde
Stripe-tailed Hummingbird			Eupherusa eximia
Monteverde
Violet-crowned Woodnymph			Thalurania colombica
Naturalista, Tapantí
Blue-throated Goldentail			Hylocharis eliciae
Carara
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird			Amazilia tzacatl
Very common species
Cinnamon Hummingbird			Amazilia rutila
Solimar
Charming Hummingbird			Polyerata decora
San Isidro, Esquinas
Mangrove Hummingbird			Polyerata boucardi
Solimar
Steely-vented Hummingbird			Saucerottia saucerrottei
Solimar
Snowcap			Microchera albocoronata
Naturalista
Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer			Chalybura urochrysia
Río Blanco
White-bellied Mountain-gem			Lampornis hemileucus
El Mirador, Tapantí
Purple-throated Mountain-gem			Lampornis calolaema
Tapantí, Monteverde
Grey-tailed Mountain-gem			Lampornis cinereicauda
Solimar
Green-crowned Brilliant			Heliodoxa jacula
El Mirador, Naturalista, Monteverde
Magnificent Hummingbird			Eugenes fulgens
El Mirador, Savegre
Purple-crowned Fairy			Heliothryx barroti
Carara
Plain-capped Starthroat			Heliomaster constantii
Solimar
Magenta-throated Woodstar			Calliphlox bryantae
Monteverde
Ruby-throated Hummingbird			Archilochus colubris
Naturalista, Solimar
Scintillant Hummingbird			Selasphorus scintilla
Savegre
Volcano Hummingbird			Selasphorus flammula

Savegre

Typical Owls			Strigidae
Pacific Screech-Owl			Otus cooperi
Solimar
Spectacled Owl			Pulsatrix perspicillata
Esquinas, El Gavilán
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl			Glaucidium brasilianum

Tarcol, Solimar

Nightjars and Allies			Caprimulgidae
Lesser Nighthawk			Chordeiles acutipennis
Finca Conchal
Pauraque			Nyctidromus albicollis

Naturalista, Esquinas, Solimar

Chuck-will's-widow

Caprimulgus carolinensis

Naturalista

Pigeons and Doves

Columbidae

Rock Dove			Columba livia
San Isidro
Red-billed Pigeon			Columba flavirostris

Naturalista, Carara, Monteverde

Short-billed Pigeon			Columba nigrirostris
Carara
Ruddy Pigeon			Columba subvinacea
Tapantí, Savegre
White-winged Dove*			Zenaida asiatica
Solimar
Common Ground-Dove			Columbina passerina
Solimar
Plain-breasted Ground-Dove			Columbina minuta
Esquinas
Ruddy Ground-Dove			Columbina talpacoti

Esquinas, Tarcol, Carara, Solimar

Inca Dove			Columbina inca
Tarcol, Solimar
Blue Ground-Dove			Claravis pretiosa
Solimar
White-tipped Dove			Leptotila verreauxi
Carara, Solimar
Grey-chested Dove			Leptotila cassini
Naturalista, Esquinas, Carara
Purplish-backed Quail-Dove			Geotrygon lawrencii

Naturalista

Limpkin			Aramidae
Limpkin*			Aramus guarauna

Solimar

Rails			Rallidae
Grey-necked Wood-Rail*			Aramides cajanea
Carara
Purple Gallinule			Porphyrula martinica

Solimar

Snipe and Allies			Scolopacidae
Long-billed Dowitcher			Limnodromus scolopaceus
Finca Conchal
Hudsonian Godwit			Limosa haemastica
Boca Río Barú
Marbled Godwit			Limosa fedoa
Finca Conchal
Whimbrel			Numenius phaeopus
Tarcol
Greater Yellowlegs			Tringa melanoleuca
Tarcol
Lesser Yellowlegs			Tringa flavipes
Tarcol, Finca Conchal
Spotted Sandpiper			Actitis macularia

Savegre, Tarcol, Finca Conchal

Willet			Catoptrophorus semipalmatus
Tarcol, Finca Conchal
Ruddy Turnstone			Arenaria interpres

Tarcol, Finca Conchal

Sanderling			Calidris alba
Tarcol
Semipalmated Sandpiper			Calidris pusilla
Finca Conchal
Western Sandpiper			Calidris mauri
Finca Conchal
Least Sandpiper			Calidris minutilla
Tarcol, Finca Conchal
Pectoral Sandpiper			Calidris melanotos

Río Tárcoles Bridge

Jacanas			Jacanidae
Northern Jacana			Jacana spinosa

Carara, Solimar

Thick-knees			Burhinidae
Double-striped Thick-knee			Burhinus bistriatus

Solimar

Plovers and Allies			Charadriidae
Black-necked Stilt			Himantopus mexicanus
Tarcol, Finca Conchal
American Golden-Plover			Pluvialis dominica
Tarcol
Black-bellied Plover			Pluvialis squatarola
Tarcol, Finca Conchal
Semipalmated Plover			Charadrius semipalmatus
Tarcol, Finca Conchal
Wilson's Plover			Charadrius wilsonia
Tarcol
Killdeer			Charadrius vociferus
Río Berris Reservoir
Collared Plover			Charadrius collaris

Tarcol

Gulls and Allies			Laridae
Black Skimmer			Rynchops niger
Finca Conchal
Laughing Gull			Larus atricilla
Finca Conchal
Gull-billed Tern			Sterna nilotica
Finca Conchal
Caspian Tern			Sterna caspia
Tarcol
Sandwich Tern			Sterna sandvicensis
Finca Conchal
Royal Tern			Sterna maxima

Tempisque Ferry, Finca Conchal

Hawks and Allies			Accipitridae
Osprey			Pandion haliaetus
Tarcol, Solimar
White-tailed Kite			Elanus leucurus

Tapantí, Esquinas, Finca Conchal

Snail Kite			Rostrhamus sociabilis
Solimar
Double-toothed Kite			Harpagus bidentatus
Carara
Crane Hawk			Geranospiza caerulescens
Carara
Mangrove Black-Hawk			Buteogallus subtilis
Boca Río Barú, Solimar
Harris' Hawk			Parabuteo unicinctus
Solimar
Grey Hawk			Asturina nitida
Tárcoles, Solimar
Roadside Hawk			Buteo magnirostris

Carretera 34 close to Parrita

Broad-winged Hawk			Buteo platypterus
Tapantí, Carara
Short-tailed Hawk			Buteo brachyurus
Solimar
White-tailed Hawk			Buteo albicaudatus
Hotel Villa Lapas
Red-tailed Hawk			Buteo jamaicensis
Savegre
Black Hawk-Eagle*			Spizaetus tyrannus

Naturalista

Falcons			Falconidae
Crested Caracara			Caracara cheriway
Tárcoles, Carara, Solimar
Yellow-headed Caracara			Milvago chimachima

Esquinas

Laughing Falcon			Herpetotheres cachinnans
Esquinas, Carara, Solimar
Collared Forest-Falcon			Micrastur semitorquatus
Solimar
American Kestrel			Falco sparverius
Solimar
Peregrine Falcon			Falco peregrinus

Río Tárcoles Bridge

Grebes			Podicipedidae
Least Grebe			Tachybaptus dominicus

Carara, Solimar

Anhingas			Anhingidae
Anhinga			Anhinga anhinga

Carara, Solimar

Cormorants			Phalacrocoracidae
Neotropic Cormorant			Phalacrocorax brasilianus

Tarcol

Herons			Ardeidae
Great Blue Heron			Ardea herodias
Tarcol, Finca Conchal
Great Egret			Ardea alba
Tarcol, Solimar
Tricoloured Heron			Egretta tricolor
Tarcol, Solimar
Little Blue Heron			Egretta caerulea
Esquinas, Tarcol, Solimar
Snowy Egret			Egretta thula
Esquinas, Tarcol, Solimar
Cattle Egret			Bubulcus ibis

Naturalista, Esquinas, Tarcol, Solimar

Green Heron			Butorides virescens
Esquinas, Tarcol, Solimar
Black-crowned Night-Heron			Nycticorax nycticorax
Solimar
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron			Nyctanassa violacea
Tarcol, Finca Conchal
Boat-billed Heron			Cochlearius cochlearius
Carara
Bare-throated Tiger-Heron			Tigrisoma mexicanum

Tarcol, Solimar

Ibises			Threskiornithidae
Green Ibis			Mesembrinibis cayennensis
El Gavilán
White Ibis			Eudocimus albus
Tarcol, Solimar
Roseate Spoonbill			Ajaia ajaja

Tarcol, Solimar

Pelicans and Allies			Pelecanidae
Brown Pelican			Pelecanus occidentalis

Golfito, Tarcol

Storks and Allies			Ciconiidae
Black Vulture			Coragyps atratus
Very common species
Turkey Vulture			Cathartes aura
Very common species
Wood Stork			Mycteria americana

Esquinas, Carara, Solimar

Jabiru

Jabiru mycteria

Esquinas

Frigatebirds			Fregatidae
Magnificent Frigatebird			Fregata magnificens

Golfito, Tarcol

Tyrant Flycatchers and Allies			Tyrannidae
Northern Beardless-Tyrannulet			Camptostoma imberbe
Solimar
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet			Camptostoma obsoletum
Esquinas
Greenish Elaenia			Myiopagis viridicata
Tárcoles, Solimar
Yellow-bellied Elaenia			Elaenia flavogaster
Monteverde
Torrent Tyrannulet			Serpophaga cinerea
Cascada La Paz, Savegre
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher			Mionectes oleagineus
Naturalista
Olive-striped Flycatcher			Mionectes olivaceus
Naturalista, Tapantí, Monteverde
Slaty-capped Flycatcher			Leptopogon superciliaris
Naturalista, Solimar
Paltry Tyrannulet			Zimmerius vilissimus
Naturalista, Tapantí, Savegre
Northern Scrub-Flycatcher			Sublegatus arenarum
Tarcol, Solimar
Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant			Myiornis atricapillus
Colonia Virgen del Socorro
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant*			Lophotriccus pileatus
Naturalista, Tapantí
Northern Bentbill			Oncostoma cinereigulare
Carara, Solimar
Slate-headed Tody-Tyrant			Poecilotriccus sylvia
Solimar
Common Tody-Flycatcher			Todirostrum cinereum

Naturalista, Esquinas, Carara, Solimar

Eye-ringed Flatbill			Rhynchocyclus brevirostris
Tapantí, Monteverde
Yellow-olive Flycatcher			Tolmomyias sulphurescens
Naturalista, Solimar
Golden-crowned Spadebill			Platyrinchus coronatus
Carara
White-throated Spadebill			Platyrinchus mystaceus
Tapantí
Royal Flycatcher			Onychorhynchus coronatus
Carara
Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher			Myiobius sulphureipygius
Naturalista
Black-tailed Flycatcher			Myiobius atricaudus
Carara
Tawny-chested Flycatcher			Aphanotriccus capitalis
Naturalista
Tufted Flycatcher			Mitrephanes phaeocercus
Tapantí, Savegre
Dark Pewee			Contopus lugubris
Tapantí, Savegre
Western Wood-Pewee			Contopus sordidulus
Savegre
Eastern Wood-Pewee			Contopus virens
Naturalista
Tropical Pewee			Contopus cinereus
Río Blanco, Naturalista, Tarcol
Yellow-bellied Flycatcher			Empidonax flaviventris
Naturalista, Carara
Acadian Flycatcher			Empidonax virescens
Solimar
Least Flycatcher			Empidonax minimus
Carara
Yellowish Flycatcher			Empidonax flavescens
Tapantí, Savegre, Monteverde
Black-capped Flycatcher			Empidonax atriceps
Savegre
Black Phoebe			Sayornis nigricans
Tapantí, Savegre
Dusky-capped Flycatcher			Myiarchus tuberculifer

Naturalista, Tarcol, Carara, Solimar

Panama Flycatcher			Myiarchus panamensis
Tarcol
Great Crested Flycatcher			Myiarchus crinitus
Carara, Solimar
Brown-crested Flycatcher			Myiarchus tyrannulus
Solimar
Great Kiskadee			Pitangus sulphuratus
Very common species
Boat-billed Flycatcher			Megarynchus pitangua
Very common species
Social Flycatcher			Myiozetetes similis
Very common species
Grey-capped Flycatcher			Myiozetetes granadensis
Savegre
Golden-bellied Flycatcher			Myiodynastes hemichrysus
Tapantí
Streaked Flycatcher			Myiodynastes maculatus
Tarcol, Solimar
Tropical Kingbird			Tyrannus melancholicus
Very common species
Scissor-tailed Flycatcher			Tyrannus forficatus

Tarcol, Solimar, Finca Conchal

Cinnamon Becard			Pachyramphus cinnamomeus
Naturalista
Rose-throated Becard			Pachyramphus aglaiae
Esquinas, Tarcol, Solimar
Masked Tityra			Tityra semifasciata
Naturalista, Monteverde
Black-crowned Tityra			Tityra inquisitor
Naturalista, Esquinas
White-collared Manakin			Manacus candei
Naturalista
Orange-collared Manakin			Manacus aurantiacus
Esquinas, Carara
White-ruffed Manakin			Corapipo altera
Naturalista
Long-tailed Manakin			Chiroxiphia linearis
Carara, Solimar
White-crowned Manakin			Pipra pipra

Naturalista

Typical Antbirds			Thamnophilidae
Barred Antshrike			Thamnophilus doliatus
Tarcol, Carara, Solimar
Black-hooded Antshrike			Thamnophilus bridgesi
Esquinas, Tarcol, Carara
Russet Antshrike			Thamnistes anabatinus
Naturalista
Plain Antvireo			Dysithamnus mentalis
Naturalista
Checker-throated Antwren			Myrmotherula fulviventris
Naturalista
Slaty Antwren			Myrmotherula schisticolor
Naturalista
Dot-winged Antwren			Microrhopias quixensis
Naturalista, Esquinas, Carara
Dusky Antbird			Cercomacra tyrannina
Carara
Chestnut-backed Antbird			Myrmeciza exsul
Esquinas, Carara
Dull-mantled Antbird*			Myrmeciza laemosticta
Naturalista
Immaculate Antbird*			Myrmeciza immaculata
Naturalista, Tapantí
Spotted Antbird			Hylophylax naevioides

Naturalista

Ovenbirds and Allies			Furnariidae
Slaty Spinetail*			Synallaxis brachyura
Naturalista
Red-faced Spinetail			Cranioleuca erythrops
Tapantí, Monteverde
Spotted Barbtail			Premnoplex brunnescens

Tapantí, Savegre, Monteverde

Ruddy Treerunner

Margarornis rubiginosus

Tapantí, Savegre, Monteverde

Plain Xenops			Xenops minutus
Naturalista, Carara
Buffy Tuftedcheek			Pseudocolaptes lawrencii
Savegre
Streak-breasted Treehunter			Thripadectes rufobrunneus
Tapantí
Lineated Foliage-gleaner			Syndactyla subalaris
Tapantí, Monteverde
Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner			Automolus ochrolaemus
Naturalista
Grey-throated Leaftosser*			Sclerurus albigularis
Monteverde
Tawny-winged Woodcreeper			Dendrocincla anabatina
Carara
Plain-brown Woodcreeper			Dendrocincla fuliginosa
Naturalista
Olivaceous Woodcreeper			Sittasomus griseicapillus
Naturalista
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper			Glyphorynchus spirurus
Naturalista
Cocoa Woodcreeper			Xiphorhynchus susurrans
Naturalista
Black-striped Woodcreeper			Xiphorhynchus lachrymosus
Esquinas
Spotted Woodcreeper			Xiphorhynchus erythropygius
Naturalista, Tapantí
Streak-headed Woodcreeper			Lepidocolaptes souleyetii

Naturalista, Esquinas, Carara, Monteverde

Spot-crowned Woodcreeper			Lepidocolaptes affinis
Savegre
Brown-billed Scythebill			Campylorhamphus pusillus

Naturalista, Tapantí

Ground Antbirds			Formicariidae
Fulvous-bellied Antpitta*			Hylopezus dives

Naturalista

Tapaculos			Rhinocryptidae
Silvery-fronted Tapaculo			Scytalopus argentifrons

Tapantí, Savegre, Monteverde

Vireos			Vireonidae
Yellow-throated Vireo			Vireo flavifrons
Naturalista, Tarcol, Solimar
Yellow-winged Vireo			Vireo carmioli
Savegre
Brown-capped Vireo			Vireo leucophrys
Savegre
Red-eyed Vireo			Vireo olivaceus
INBioparque
Tawny-crowned Greenlet			Hylophilus ochraceiceps
Naturalista
Lesser Greenlet			Hylophilus decurtatus
Tapantí, Tarcol, Solimar
Rufous-browed Peppershrike			Cyclarhis gujanensis

Tapantí, Monteverde

Crows and Allies			Corvidae
White-throated Magpie-Jay			Calocitta formosa

Tarcol, Solimar

Brown Jay

Cyanocorax morio

Río Blanco, Naturalista, Monteverde

Azure-hooded Jay

Cyanolyca cucullata

Tapantí, Monteverde

Waxwings and Allies			Ptilogonatidae
Black-and-yellow Silky-flycatcher*			Phainoptila melanoxantha
Monteverde
Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher			Ptilogonys caudatus

Savegre

Dippers			Cinclidae
American Dipper			Cinclus mexicanus

Providencia, Savegre

Old World Flycatchers and Allies			Muscicapidae
Black-faced Solitaire			Myadestes melanops
Tapantí, Monteverde
Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush			Catharus aurantiirostris
Wilson, Monteverde
Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush			Catharus fuscater
Tapantí, Monteverde
Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush			Catharus gracilirostris
Cerro de la Muerte
Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush			Catharus frantzii
Savegre
Black-headed Nightingale-Thrush*			Catharus mexicanus
Naturalista
Swainson's Thrush			Catharus ustulatus
Naturalista
Wood Thrush			Hylocichla mustelina
Monteverde
Sooty Robin			Turdus nigrescens
Cerro de la Muerte
Mountain Robin			Turdus plebejus
Tapantí, Monteverde
Clay-coloured Robin			Turdus grayi

Very common species

Northern Creepers and Allies			Certhiidae
Rufous-naped Wren			Campylorhynchus rufinucha
Tarcol, Solimar
Black-throated Wren			Thryothorus atrogularis
Naturalista
Black-bellied Wren			Thryothorus fasciatoventris
Carara
Rufous-breasted Wren			Thryothorus rutilus
Carara
Riverside Wren			Thryothorus semibadius
Esquinas
Stripe-breasted Wren			Thryothorus thoracicus
Naturalista
Banded Wren			Thryothorus pleurostictus
Solimar
Rufous-and-white Wren			Thryothorus rufalbus

Solimar, Monteverde

Plain Wren

Thryothorus modestus

Naturalista, Solimar, Monteverde

House Wren

Troglodytes aedon

Naturalista, Esquinas, Monteverde

Ochraceous Wren			Troglodytes ochraceus
Naturalista, Tapantí, Savegre
Timberline Wren			Thryorchilus browni
Cerro de la Muerte
White-breasted Wood-Wren			Henicorhina leucosticta
Río Blanco, Naturalista
Grey-breasted Wood-Wren			Henicorhina leucophrys

Tapantí, Savegre, Monteverde

Scaly-breasted Wren			Microcerculus marginatus
Esquinas
Long-billed Gnatwren			Ramphocaenus melanurus
Naturalista, Carara, Solimar
White-lored Gnatcatcher			Polioptila albiloris
Solimar
Tropical Gnatcatcher			Polioptila plumbea

Esquinas, Solimar

Swallows and Allies			Hirundinidae
Grey-breasted Martin			Progne chalybea
Boca Río Barú
Mangrove Swallow			Tachycineta albilinea
Boca Río Barú, Tarcol
Blue-and-white Swallow			Pygochelidon cyanoleuca
Savegre
Cliff Swallow			Petrochelidon pyrrhonota
Río Tárcoles Bridge
Barn Swallow			Hirundo rustica

Solimar

Sparrows and Allies			Passeridae
House Sparrow			Passer domesticus

San Isidro

Finches and Allies			Fringillidae
Golden-winged Warbler			Vermivora chrysoptera
Common species
Tennessee Warbler			Vermivora peregrina
Common species
Flame-throated Warbler			Parula gutturalis
Savegre
Tropical Parula			Parula pitiayumi
Naturalista
Yellow Warbler			Dendroica petechia
Tarcol, Carara, Solimar
Mangrove Warbler			Dendroica p. erithachorides
Tarcol
Chestnut-sided Warbler			Dendroica pensylvanica
Very common species
Yellow-rumped Warbler			Dendroica coronata
Monteverde
Black-throated Green Warbler			Dendroica virens
Savegre
Townsend's Warbler			Dendroica townsendi
Savegre
Blackburnian Warbler			Dendroica fusca
Tapantí
Black-and-white Warbler			Mniotilta varia
Naturalista, Tapantí, Carara
American Redstart			Setophaga ruticilla
Tarcol, Solimar
Prothonotary Warbler			Protonotaria citrea
Tarcol, Solimar
Worm-eating Warbler			Helmitheros vermivorus
Naturalista
Ovenbird			Seiurus aurocapillus

Naturalista, Solimar, Monteverde

Northern Waterthrush			Seiurus noveboracensis
Tarcol, Solimar
Kentucky Warbler			Oporornis formosus
Naturalista
Mourning Warbler			Oporornis philadelphia
Naturalista
Masked Yellowthroat			Geothlypis aequinoctialis
El Brujo
Wilson's Warbler			Wilsonia pusilla

Naturalista, Savegre, Monteverde

Canada Warbler			Wilsonia canadensis
Hotel Villa Lapas Canopy Walk
Slate-throated Redstart			Myioborus miniatus
Tapantí, Monteverde
Collared Redstart			Myioborus torquatus
Savegre, Monteverde
Golden-crowned Warbler			Basileuterus culicivorus
Naturalista, Monteverde
Rufous-capped Warbler			Basileuterus rufifrons
Naturalista, Solimar, Monteverde
Black-cheeked Warbler			Basileuterus melanogenys
Savegre
Three-striped Warbler			Basileuterus tristriatus
Tapantí, Monteverde
Buff-rumped Warbler			Basileuterus fulvicauda
Río Blanco
Wrenthrush (Zeledonia)			Zeledonia coronata
Tapantí, Savegre
Bananaquit			Coereba flaveola
Naturalista, Tapantí, Esquinas
Common Bush-Tanager			Chlorospingus ophthalmicus
Tapantí, Monteverde
Sooty-capped Bush-Tanager			Chlorospingus pileatus
Savegre
Olive Tanager			Chlorothraupis carmioli
Naturalista
Grey-headed Tanager			Eucometis penicillata
Carara
White-shouldered Tanager			Tachyphonus luctuosus
Carara
White-lined Tanager			Tachyphonus rufus
Río Blanco, Naturalista, Carara
Red-throated Ant-Tanager			Habia fuscicauda
Naturalista
Black-cheeked Ant-Tanager			Habia atrimaxillaris
Esquinas
Summer Tanager			Piranga rubra
Common species
Flame-coloured Tanager			Piranga bidentata
Savegre
Crimson-collared Tanager			Ramphocelus sanguinolentus
Tapantí
Passerini's Tanager			Ramphocelus passerinii
Río Blanco, Naturalista
Cherrie's Tanager			Ramphocelus costaricensis
Esquinas
Blue-grey Tanager			Thraupis episcopus
Very common species
Palm Tanager			Thraupis palmarum
Naturalista
Scrub Euphonia			Euphonia affinis
Solimar
Yellow-crowned Euphonia			Euphonia luteicapilla
Quebrada Gonzales
Yellow-throated Euphonia			Euphonia hirundinacea
Carara
Elegant Euphonia			Euphonia elegantissima
Savegre
Spot-crowned Euphonia			Euphonia imitans
Esquinas
Olive-backed Euphonia			Euphonia gouldi
Río Blanco
White-vented Euphonia			Euphonia minuta
Esquinas, Wilson
Tawny-capped Euphonia			Euphonia anneae
Naturalista, Tapantí
Golden-browed Chlorophonia			Chlorophonia callophrys
Tapantí, Savegre
Silver-throated Tanager			Tangara icterocephala
Tapantí
Bay-headed Tanager			Tangara gyrola
Tapantí, Esquinas
Golden-hooded Tanager			Tangara larvata
Río Blanco, Naturalista, Carara
Spangle-cheeked Tanager			Tangara dowii
Tapantí, Savegre, Monteverde
Scarlet-thighed Dacnis			Dacnis venusta
Tapantí
Blue Dacnis			Dacnis cayana
Esquinas
Green Honeycreeper			Chlorophanes spiza
Naturalista, Esquinas
Blue-black Grassquit			Volatinia jacarina

Naturalista, Esquinas, Tarcol, Solimar

Variable Seedeater			Sporophila corvina
Río Blanco, Naturalista, Esquinas, Tarcol
White-collared Seedeater			Sporophila torqueola
Esquinas, Solimar
Thick-billed Seed-Finch			Oryzoborus funereus
Naturalista
Yellow-faced Grassquit			Tiaris olivacea
Naturalista, Savegre
Peg-billed Finch			Acanthidops bairdii
Savegre
Slaty Flowerpiercer			Diglossa plumbea
Savegre, Monteverde
Yellow-thighed Finch			Pselliophorus tibialis
Savegre
Large-footed Finch			Pezopetes capitalis
Savegre
White-naped Brush-Finch			Atlapetes albinucha
Naturalista
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch			Buarremon brunneinucha

Naturalista, Tapantí, Savegre, Monteverde

Orange-billed Sparrow

Arremon aurantiirostris

Río Blanco, Esquinas, Tarcol

Olive Sparrow			Arremonops rufivirgatus
Solimar
Black-striped Sparrow			Arremonops conirostris
Río Blanco, Naturalista
Stripe-headed Sparrow			Aimophila ruficauda
Tarcol, Solimar
Rufous-collared Sparrow			Zonotrichia capensis
Savegre, Monteverde
Volcano Junco			Junco vulcani
Cerro de la Muerte
Streaked Saltator			Saltator striatipectus
Wilson
Greyish Saltator			Saltator coerulescens

Finca Cristina outside Cartago

Buff-throated Saltator			Saltator maximus
Río Blanco, Naturalista, Esquinas, Tarcol
Black-headed Saltator			Saltator atriceps
Naturalista
Slate-coloured Grosbeak			Saltator grossus
Colonia Virgen del Socorro
Black-faced Grosbeak			Caryothraustes poliogaster
Quebrada Gonzales
Black-thighed Grosbeak			Pheucticus tibialis
Savegre
Rose-breasted Grosbeak			Pheucticus ludovicianus

Naturalista, Tárcoles, Solimar

Blue Grosbeak			Guiraca caerulea
Solimar
Red-winged Blackbird			Agelaius phoeniceus
Solimar
Eastern Meadowlark*			Sturnella magna
Solimar
Melodious Blackbird*			Dives dives
Naturalista
Great-tailed Grackle			Quiscalus mexicanus
Very common species
Spot-breasted Oriole			Icterus pectoralis
Solimar
Streak-backed Oriole			Icterus pustulatus
Solimar
Baltimore Oriole			Icterus galbula

Río Blanco, Naturalista, Tarcol, Solimar

Black-cowled Oriole			Icterus prosthemelas
Río Blanco, Naturalista
Yellow-billed Cacique			Amblycercus holosericeus
Naturalista
Scarlet-rumped Cacique			Cacicus uropygialis
Naturalista
Montezuma Oropendola			Gymnostinops montezuma

Naturalista, Solimar

Some other animals
American Crocodile			Crocodylus acutus
Tarcol, Solimar
Leatherback Sea Turtle			Dermochelys coriacea
Playa Grande
Eyelash Viper			Bothriechis schlegelii
Esquinas
Green Iguana			Iguana iguana
Carara
Basilisk			Bisiliscus basiliscus
Río Blanco
Ctenosaur			Ctenosaura similis
Solimar
Central American Whiptail			Ameiva festiva
Esquinas
White-faced Capuchin			Cebus capucinus
Esquinas, Carara
Mantled Howler Monkey			Alouatta palliata
Solimar, Monteverde
Central American Spider Monkey			Ateles geoffroyi
Quebrada Gonzales
Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth			Bradypus variegatus
Naturalista, Carara
Nine-banded Armadillo			Dasypus novemcinctus
Savegre
Variegated Squirrel			Sciurus variegatoides
Common species
Red-tailed Squirrel			Sciurus granatensis
Naturalista
Central American Dwarf Squirrel			Microsciuris alfari
Monteverde
Central American Agouti			Dasyprocta punctata
Carara
Neotropical Otter			Lutra longicaudis
Savegre
White-nosed Coati			Nasua narica
Carara
Collared Peccary			Tayassu tajacu

Carara