19 - 26 November 2006
by Beth & Bill Clark
Our trip focused on some
of the outstanding Natural Private Reserves in Guatemala. While
mainly a birding trip, some time was spent sight-seeing and
shopping. The group was a mixture of family and friends. We were
joined by Beth’s sister and her husband, Bucka Jim and Carol James from
Boise, Idaho, another sister, Nancy aka “Natalie” Simmons, from Alta
Loma, California and friends, Cindy and Bob “Motmot” or M² Clement from
Detroit, Michigan. This was the first trip to Central America for
Jim, Carol, Nancy, and Cindy. Bob had visited Costa Rica and
Panama, while we had traveled extensively in Central America including
2 previous trips to Guatemala. Rooms and travel logistics were handled
by Bitty Ramirez-Portilla, owner, La Via Maya travel agency. We
recommend her with complete confidence. Claire
Dallies De Masaya, also helped with our trip planning and is
an excellent guide. Claire’s book, Guatemala Bird Checklist by
Ecosystems, was recently published and is a valuable resource. She has
worked closely with many of the fincas doing bird surveys and training
guides.
Everyone flew to Houston on Friday
and we met for dinner that night. Our 9:30 AM flight on
Continental Airlines left on time and we arrived in Guatemala City less
than 3 hours later. We were greeted by a representative of La Via
Maya and were introduced to our van driver, César. We all piled into
the van and were off to our first stop, the ancient city of
Antigua. Less than an hour later we checked into the Hotel Las Farolas, and then met Leonel
Azurdia, for an excellent guided tour of the fascinating
city.
Our first full day in Guatemala
started with an early morning drive to Finca Filadelfia, located just
outside the city. We were met by Claire and Bitty and spent 3
hours birding the finca’s property. Our visit produced over
35 species including Black-headed Siskin, Black-capped Swallow, Gray
Silky-flycatcher (100+), Bushy-crested Jay and Flame-colored Tanager.
Besides preserving natural vegetation, the finca is developing a
first-class resort. After an excellent breakfast, we left for our
next destination.
Finca Patrocinio, is located
near Retalhuleu about a 5-hour drive from Guatemala City. The
finca is located in subtropical forest and is a Natural Private
Reserve. Owner Mario Aguilar, and his wife
Lorena joined us for the afternoon and spent a couple of hours before
dinner talking about the history of the finca and their plans for the
future. These plans include additional rooms for guests as well
as facilities for environmental education programs. A canopy
observation tower is nearly completed, and they have already started
hosting school groups. The finca currently has a three-bedroom house
with shared facilities, and can accommodate up to 10 guests.
Meals can be arranged, or you can bring your own food and use the
kitchen. Early morning birding with local guide, Paulino, added
to our list with a total of almost 50 species seen, including our only
Rufous-browed Peppershrike. We heard the regional endemic
White-bellied Chachalaca but were unable locate it. We also had
our first look at White-throated Magpie-Jay, a real crowd
pleaser. One of Mario’s employees has hung three feeders and
keeps them filled with fruit. We were told he feeds 50 bananas a
day and all three feeders were full of birds and provided excellent
viewing opportunities.
Mid-morning we took a short drive to
Takalik Maya
Lodge. We birded the coffee plantation and its
surrounding forest in the afternoon and visited the Takalik Abaj
Archeological Site the next morning. Rooms with private bathrooms
are available, but we stayed in three older rooms by the old coffee
mill. These rooms are in need of repair. Bathroom
facilities with cold water are located in two out-buildings.
Access after dark is precarious. Meals are served in an outdoor
restaurant surrounded by tropical gardens and forest. Many birds
were seen during our meals and peacocks foraged around the table for
scraps. We had our only sighting of Collared Aracari, Keel-billed
Motmot, and Barred Antshrike there.
After visiting the archeological
site, we transferred to Los Tarrales Natural Private Reserve,
for a 2-night stay. Los Tarrales is owned by Andy Burge, and is located on
the southeast slope of Atitlán Volcano and protects stands of
subtropical humid forest and montain forest. The altitude in the
reserve ranges from 750 to 3,000 meters. Over 60 families live
and work on the reserve in coffee production and ornamental plant
cultivation. We stayed in a comfortable private house and had
family-style meals in a dining room in the main ranch house. We were
accompanied by local guide, Josué, on all our birding walks. At twenty
years of age, Josué is an outstanding guide with excellent English
skills. We tallied 5 species of parrots, 8 species of
hummingbirds, our only King Vultures (4 adults), and Strong-billed
Woodcreeper.
We then moved to Los
Andes, which is about 15k away as the King Vulture flies,
but due to the 2005 hurricane and recent heavy rain, the trip took four
hours. Afterwards, some of us wished we’d walked instead.
En route we picked up Hugo Enriquez, one of
Guatemala’s best bird guides. We had met him the year before and
were surprised and thrilled to have him join us again. Los Andes
is owned by the Hazard family and we were fortunate to spend time with
Jim and his daughter Olga. The Hazards grow mainly
coffee and tea on this stunning high-altitude finca. We stayed in
private rooms in the central ranch house and joined Jim and Olga for
wonderful meals in the dining room.
The birding highlight for most of the group was the sighting of two
male Resplendent Quetzals the second morning at the same time we were
watching six Cabanis’ (Azure-rumped)Tanagers from another trail.
The local guide, Sus, short for Jesus, had seen the quetzal but was
having trouble giving directions. Minutes before it was time to
return to the finca, Natalie noticed a bluish-looking streamer hanging
down from a branch. She followed it up and found the rest of a
Resplendent Quetzal. She was so excited her directions weren’t
much of an improvement but finally everyone saw the bird. Both
males eventually gave full frontal views from fairly close range.
Setting up a scope no one had ever used before for closer looks is
another story. The raptor sightings at Los Andes were equally
impressive as we saw 12 species including 3 Hawk-Eagles
(Black-and-white, Black, and Ornate), Solitary Eagle, and Laughing
Falcon.
Our final night was spent at Hotel
Bambú, on the shore of spectacular Lake Atitlán. On
the beautiful hotel grounds we saw 13 species we hadn’t encountered at
the other locations including Azure-crowned Hummingbird, Slender
Sheartail, Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush, Black-vented Oriole, Pine
Flycatcher, and Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer. Breakfast on the deck
overlooking the lake was a highlight of the stay. We experienced
the shopping frenzy at the nearby village of Santiago Atitlán, a
Tzutujil Maya speaking community and found some wonderful souvenirs
before taking a boat across the lake to Panajachel for our van pick-up
and the return trip to Guatemala City.
This Natural Private Reserve tour is
appealing for birdwatchers as well as for non-birding
participants. Surrounded by towering volcanoes, 4 of which are
still active, tropical rainforest, and a variety of ecosystems, these
reserves greatly enhance the birdwatching experience. It was such
a pleasure to stay in the comfortable homes of these admirable land
owners and spend time learning about their past history and future
plans. The owners of these fincas are to be commended for their
past accomplishments and future plans for the land and the people who
work and live there. They are concentrating on educating the
young people who will eventually be the fincas’ caretakers.
Spending time with these people felt like coming home after a long
absence. Their friendliness and desire to share their world made
us feel welcome and comfortable. As we sit here enjoying the
delicious finca coffee we brought home, we encourage you to visit them
and experience the true Guatemala. If you do, we’re sure that
you’ll understand why the Guatemalan Tourist Commission calls Guatemala
“The Soul of the Earth.”
SPECIES
SEEN
From 11/19/2006 to 11/26/2006 ~ in
Guatemala ~
155 seen & 12 heard only
* Regional Endemic according
to Guatemala Bird Checklist by Ecosystems
Location Key:
1 = Finca Filadelfia
2 = Finca Patrocinio
3 = Takalik Maya Lodge and
archeological site
4 = Los Tarrales
5 = Los Andes
6 = Hotel Bambu and Lake Atitlán
HERONS, EGRETS AND BITTERNS
Great Egret 2 4 5
6
Cattle Egret 2 3
4
Green Heron 6
NEW WORLD VULTURES
Black Vulture 1 2 3 4 6
Turkey Vulture 1 2 3 4 5
6
King Vulture 4
OSPREY
Osprey 5
HAWKS, EAGLES AND KITES
Cooper's Hawk 1 4
Solitary Eagle 5
Common Black-Hawk 2
Gray Hawk 2 4 5
Roadside Hawk 3 5
Short-tailed Hawk 5
Swainson's Hawk 2
Red-tailed Hawk 5
Black-and-white
Hawk-Eagle 5
Black Hawk-Eagle 5
Ornate Hawk-Eagle 5
FALCONS AND CARACARAS
Crested Caracara 3 4
Laughing Falcon 2 5
Collared Forest-Falcon 4
5
American Kestrel 2 5
GUANS, CHACHALACAS, CURASSOWS
White-bellied
Chachalaca* 2 3
Crested Guan 5
Highland Guan* 5
NEW WORLD QUAIL
Buffy-crowned
Wood-Partridge* 5
Spotted Wood-Quail*
5
RAILS, GALLINULES AND COOTS
American Coot 6
PIGEONS AND DOVES
Rock Dove 1 4
Band-tailed Pigeon 1
Red-billed Pigeon* 4 5
White-winged Dove 1 6
Ruddy Ground-Dove 4
Inca Dove 3 6
White-tipped Dove 3 4 5
PARROTS
Pacific Parakeet* 4 5
Orange-fronted Parakeet*
4
Orange-chinned Parakeet 4
White-fronted Parrot* 2
3 4
Yellow-naped Parrot* 2 3
4
CUCKOOS
Squirrel Cuckoo 2 3 4 5
Groove-billed Ani 2 3
5
OWLS
Whiskered Screech-Owl 2
NIGHTJARS
Pauraque 5
SWIFTS
White-collared Swift 1 3
5
Vaux's Swift 1 3 4
HUMMINGBIRDS
Rufous Sabrewing* 5
Violet Sabrewing* 2 4 5
Green-breasted Mango 4
Emerald-chinned
Hummingbird 5
Blue-throated Goldentail
4
White-eared Hummingbird*
1
Cinnamon Hummingbird* 2
3 4 5
White-bellied Emerald 4
Azure-crowned
Hummingbird* 6
Blue-tailed Hummingbird*
4 5
Green-throated
Mountain-gem* 5
Magnificent Hummingbird 2
Long-billed Starthroat 4
Slender Sheartail* 6
Ruby-throated
Hummingbird 4 5
TROGONS AND QUETZALS
Violaceous Trogon 3
Collared Trogon 5
Resplendent Quetzal* 5
MOTMOTS
Blue-crowned Motmot 4
Keel-billed Motmot 3
TOUCANS
Emerald Toucanet 5
Collared Aracari 3
WOODPECKERS
Acorn Woodpecker 1
Golden-fronted
Woodpecker 1 2 3 4 5 6
Golden-olive Woodpecker
4 5
Northern Flicker 1
Lineated Woodpecker 3 4
Pale-billed Woodpecker* 5
OVENBIRDS
Scaly-throated
Foliage-gleaner 5
Ruddy Foliage-gleaner 3 5
WOODCREEPERS
Strong-billed
Woodcreeper 4
Ivory-billed
Woodcreeper* 3 4
Spotted Woodcreeper 5
TYPICAL ANTBIRDS
Barred Antshrike 3 4
ANTTHRUSHES AND ANTPITTAS
Scaled Antpitta 5
TYRANT FLYCATCHERS
Paltry Tyrannulet 2 5
Common Tody-Flycatcher 4
5
Stub-tailed Spadebill* 3
Greater Pewee 1
Tropical Pewee 4
Pine Flycatcher* 6
Black Phoebe 4 6
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
4 6
Boat-billed Flycatcher 4
5
Social Flycatcher 2 3 4
5 6
Tropical Kingbird 2 3 4 5
Scissor-tailed
Flycatcher 5
Rose-throated Becard 3 4
5
Masked Tityra 2 3 4
SWALLOWS
Violet-green Swallow 4
Black-capped Swallow* 1 5
Northern Rough-winged
Swallow 4 5
SILKY-FLYCATCHERS
Gray Silky-flycatcher* 1
6
WRENS
Band-backed Wren 1
Rufous-naped Wren* 2 3 4
Spot-breasted Wren* 4
Rufous-and-white Wren 5
Plain Wren* 4
House Wren 4
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren 5
MOCKINGBIRDS AND THRASHERS
Tropical Mockingbird 6
THRUSHES
Eastern Bluebird 1 5
Brown-backed Solitaire*
1 5
Ruddy-capped
Nightingale-Thrush* 6
Swainson's Thrush 4
Clay-colored Robin 1 3 4
5 6
Rufous-collared Robin* 1
GNATCATCHERS
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher 3
LONG-TAILED TITS
Bushtit 6
CROWS AND JAYS
Steller's Jay 1
White-throated
Magpie-Jay* 2 3 4 5
Bushy-crested Jay* 1 5
VIREOS AND ALLIES
Yellow-throated Vireo 4
Blue-headed Vireo 5
Hutton's Vireo 1 2
Rufous-browed Peppershrike 3
WOOD WARBLERS
Tennessee Warbler 3 5 6
Yellow Warbler 2 3 4 6
Magnolia Warbler 2 3 4
Yellow-rumped Warbler 2
Black-and-white Warbler 2 3 4
5
Worm-eating Warbler 5
Townsend's Warbler 1 5 6
Ovenbird 2
Kentucky Warbler 5
Wilson’s Warbler 2 3 4 5 6
Slate-throated Redstart 1 2 5
Common Yellowthroat 6
Golden-crowned Warbler 5
Rufous-capped Warbler* 5
Yellow-breasted Chat 4
TANAGERS AND ALLIES
Common Bush-Tanager 5
Summer Tanager 1 2 3 4
Western Tanager 1 5
Flame-colored Tanager* 1
White-winged Tanager 1 2
4
Blue-gray Tanager 2 4 5 6
Yellow-winged Tanager* 2
3 4 5
Scrub Euphonia* 2 4
Yellow-throated
Euphonia* 2 4 5
Cabanis’ (Azure-rumped)
Tanager* 5
Red-legged Honeycreeper 2 3 4
5 6
BUNTINGS, SEEDEATERS, ALLIES
White-collared
Seedeater* 4 6
Cinnamon-bellied
Flowerpiercer* 6
SPARROWS, TOWHEES, JUNCOS
Prevost's
Ground-Sparrow* 3
Rufous-collared Sparrow 6
SALTATORS, CARDINALS AND ALLIES
Black-headed Saltator* 4
5
Rose-breasted Grosbeak 1
2
BLACKBIRDS, ORIOLES, GRACKLES, ETC.
Red-winged Blackbird 6
Melodious Blackbird 1 2
3 4 5
Great-tailed Grackle 1 2
3 4 5 6
Spot-breasted Oriole 4
Altamira Oriole 2
3 4 6
Baltimore Oriole 2 3 4 5
6
Orchard Oriole 2 4 5 6
Black-vented Oriole* 6
Yellow-billed Cacique 4
Yellow-winged Cacique* 2
FINCHES, SISKINS, CROSSBILLS
Black-headed Siskin* 1
Lesser Goldfinch 1 2 5 6
OLD WORLD SPARROWS
House Sparrow 6