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MEXICO -- NAYARIT &
JALISCO
Based in Bucerias, near Puerto
Vallarta
28 March - 2 April 2006
by Allan Welby
State of Nayarit:
El Guamuchil
Islas
Marietas (Marietas Islands)
State of Jalisco:
Los
Tules (Puerto Vallarta)
Mismaloya
Las Palmas
Puerto Vallarta is a great base
for birding the states of Jalisco and
Nayarit. I found it easy to get around the area, do some birding,
and return to my resort and my non-birding family by late
morning. For the week I was there the temperatures were quite
comfortable in the early morning hours, but became very hot at
approximately 10 a.m.. I found that bird activity decreased
markedly after 10 a.m..
Local
Orientation and Transportation:
Highway 200 runs north/south bordering the Banderas Bay. Highway
70 is north of town and runs east to Las Palmas. The bus service
along these routes is easy to use. It is regular and inexpensive
(generally less than $1) and serves all towns, resorts and stops along
these highways. Bus service does not seen to get running until
after 6 am, so if you want to leave early to arrive at a birding area
by sunrise it is best to take a taxi. Taxi rates are negotiable,
with longer routes (one hour) costing more than $15 to $30. My
accommodations were at Los Tules, a resort condominium complex north of
downtown Puerto Vallarta and just south of the Terminal Maritima.
I was easily able to catch buses and taxis right outside of Los Tules.
References:
Howells “A Guide to the Birds of
Mexico and Northern Central America” was what I carried in the
field. However, I found it frustrating that a number of migrants
were not illustrated. It would be advisable to also have the “National Geographic Guide to Birds of
North America” available to reference migrant species.
There is a pamphlet available, “The
Birds of Paradise – The Guide & Checklist of the Birds of Puerto
Vallarta” by Dennis W. Boddy. I did not use this guide so
I can’t comment on its value.
Defend
yourself from chiggers!:
Although I did not encounter any mosquitoes in the areas I birded (I
did not bird the mangroves), chiggers were another story.
Unfortunately, I did not take the proper precautions to avoid chigger
bites. Chiggers were plentiful, particularly in Las Palmas and El
Guamuchil. I had hundreds (thousands?!) of bites and itched
miserably for about a week after I returned to the United States.
Please take the proper precautions to avoid chigger bites. I
can’t stress this enough! Click here for
a chigger fact sheet.
The Los
Tules area:
Birding the resort property itself was not very rewarding except for a
few common species. This is probably the case for most of the
resorts near town, but I understand that some of the large property
resorts well north of town have more satisfying habitat. What I
found rewarding near Los Tules was habitat just to the east of the
resort (less than ten minute walk). I did not bird this area
extensively, but it was productive and many more species can probably
be found with a little more concentration Across the road east of
the resort is a large grocery store mall called “Gigante.” If you
walk east along the south side of the mall you will arrive at a busy
road. Cross that busy road and you will find farm pastures
bordered by large rows of trees and scrub. I asked guards (why
they were there I don’t know) if I could “camino la sendoro” (walk the
trail), and with no problem they allowed me to walk under a fence and
walk along the tree lines. Following is a list of birds seen in
the area east of the “Gigante” shopping mall:
Neotropic Cormorant
Snowy Egret
Turkey Vulture
Elegant Quail
Common Ground-Dove
White-winged Dove
Ruddy Ground-Dove
Mourning Dove
Mexican Parrotlet
Orange-fronted Parakeet
Groove-billed Ani
Broad Billed Hummingbird
Greater Kiskadee
Northern Rough-winged Swallow
Cliff Swallow
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Yellow Warbler
Black-and-white Warbler
Great-tailed Grackle
Painted Bunting
Indigo Bunting
Black-headed Grosbeak
White-collared Seedeater
House Sparrow
Islas
Marietas:
We booked a day trip to the Marietas Islands, a bird sanctuary in
Banderas Bay 35 miles (about an hour on the boat) northwest of the
marina. We booked the trip through Vallarta Adventures, which has
daily trips to the islands on a 150 person motorized catamaran (with
bathrooms). The trip to and from the islands was a lot of fun,
with music, dancing, food, and drinks. I kept alert to the
possibility of whale sightings. Most of the whales have left the
bay by late March, but a few stragglers remain. I saw four whales
on this boat excursion, although the glimpses were brief. I also
saw a sea turtle on the surface.
Once we got to the islands we were able to snorkel for about an
hour. The water was extremely cold, but the snorkeling was
fantastic. The variety of fish and sea creatures was
outstanding. Cost $70 per person. The views of the nesting
seabirds on the islands are awesome. The birds did not seem to
mind the close proximity of human observers. Following is a list
of seabirds seen on the Isla Marietas excursion:
Turkey Vulture
Brandt's Cormorant
Brown Booby
Blue-footed Booby
Heermann's Gull
Laughing Gull
Brown Pelican
Magnificent Frigatebird
Royal Tern
Mismaloya
mountain road:
Just south of Peurto Vallarta is the town of Mismaloya. A road
leaves the coastline and climbs the mountain valley to the east of
Mismaloya. At the end of this road (approximately 4 kilometers
from the coast) is a place called “El Eden.” This was the area
where the Arnold Scharzenegger film, “Predator,” was filmed. I
took a taxi ($15) from my resort to “El Eden” with the intent on
walking back down the valley road and catching a bus back the the
resort from Mismaloya. My taxi driver thought I was crazy, being
dropped off at the top of the hill at 6 am with the intent of walking
down. But the experience was quite enjoyable and the hike down
the road quite easy. It was easy to catch a bus back to Puerto
Vallarta and I was back at my resort by 11 am. The habitat
between “Chino’s” and “El Eden” along the mountain road is great and
there were quite a number of birds. Orange Breasted Bunting was
outstanding. Following is a list of birds seen on the hike down
from “El Eden.”
Broad-winged Hawk
Inca Dove
White-fronted Parrot
Orange-fronted Parakeet
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl
Golden-cheeked Woodpecker
San Blas Jay
Green Jay
Citrioline Trogon
Greater Kiskadee
Masked Tityra
Grey-bBreasted Martin
Happy Wren
Rufous-backed Thrush
Wilson’s Warbler
Black-throated Gray Warbler
Orange-crowned Warbler
Orange-breasted Bunting
Stripe-headed Sparrow
Yellow-winged Cacique
Las Palmas:
I hired a local guide, Gerardo Hernandez, for one morning of birding
(gerardomexico@yahoo.com.mx, telephone (01-322)227-9750). Gerardo
is very personable, speaks great English, and was an enjoyable birding
companion. He took me to a farm area on the road to Las Palmas,
northeast of Puerto Vallarta. It was an area of deciduous and
thorny/scrub habitat. We parked the car in one location and
birded the entire morning within walking distance of the car.
This was a tremendous area for birding as the trees were jumping with
activity. It probably is not necessary to hire a guide as I
did. A taxi out and bus service back will probably suffice
(although bus service is a less frequent along this road). To get
there take highway 70 east towards Las Palmas. Go through the
town of Ixtapa (no, not the famous Ixtapa), and continue a few
kilometers (5?) to the bridge over the Rio Mascota. There is a
sign at the river which reads, “Peunte Rio Mascota” (Rio Mascota
bridge). This river was completely dry on my visit. Just
after the bridge, take a right at the first road and you will soon come
to the small town of Las Desembocada. Continue through this town
for about 11 kilometers. Keep an eye out for large white sign
just next to the road on the right side that reads “Bienvenidos Al
Poblada De Sta Cruz De Quelitan” (the sign appears to be permanent
brick work). Park at the dry riverbed just before this
sign. Walk this riverbed to the right and various connecting
trails. Also bird the road up to and beyond the farm by the
sign. The entire area was brimming with bird activity.
Black throated Magpie Jay is apparently seen often in this area but I
did not see any (it was heard). Military Macaw sighting was a
pair flying high overhead. The following is a list of species
seen:
Cattle Egret
American Kestrel
Gray Hawk
Common Black-Hawk
Turkey Vulture
Black Vulture
Ruddy Ground-Dove
Red-billed Pigeon
Orange-fronted Parakeet
Lilac-crowned Parrot
Military Macaw
Mexican Parrotlet
Inca Dove
Berylline Hummingbird
Mexican Woodnymph
Broad-billed Hummingbird
Cinnamon Hummingbird
Golden-cheeked Woodpecker
Tropical Kingbird
Ash-throated Flycatcher
Social Flycatcher
Great Kiskadee
Masked Tityra
Rose-throated Becard
Gray Saltator
Northern Rough-winged Swallow
San Blas Jay
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Rufous-backed Thrush
Warbling Vireo
Plumbeous Vireo
Scrub Euphonia
Nashville Warbler
Wilson’s Warbler
Black-throated Gray Warbler
Yellow-breasted Chat
Summer Tanager
Blue Mockingbird
Blue Bunting
Blue Grosbeak
Yellow Grosbeak
Hooded Oriole
Streak-backed Oriole
Stripe-headed Sparrow
Yellow-winged Cacique
Bronzed Cowbird
El
Guamuchil:
I referenced a trip report from Blake Maybank regarding birding near
the village of El Guamuchil. I’m glad I spent a morning hiking
this valley because the birding was great. My target bid was the
Black throated Magpie Jay. I saw 11 of them! El Guamuchil
is a small village north of Bucerias approximately 45 minutes cab ride
north of Puerto Vallarta. The village is located just a few paces
east of highway 200. I wanted to start birding at the first light
of day, so I negotiated a cab ride from my resort at 5am. The
first cab driver insisted on $50 for the one way fare. I offered
$35 and he refused. I offered a second cab driver $30 and he was
more than happy to take me (everything is negotiable!). You can
return to Puerto Vallarta by public bus (just a couple of
dollars). They run between Puerto Vallarta and Sayulita every 30
minutes (the return bus stop, with shelter, is just north of the road
into El Guamuchil on the west side of highway 200). Have the taxi
drop you off in the middle of the village. If he drops you off at
the highway 200 bus stop, walk east into the village across a stone
bridge. Pass through the village, keeping left along the main
route and you will pass a dilapidated playground on your left.
Continue over a river wash (dry when I visited) and continue keeping to
the left (dry river will be on your right). You’ll then pass the
school on your right. At the end of the cobblestones, keep to the
left. You’ll be in the back part of the town where the road
forks. Again, stay to the left. From here you can continue
up the valley along livestock trails. Further up the trail you’ll
pass through a livestock gate that reads “Rancho Playo 14 HNOS.”
The birding was great the next few kilometers up this valley.
Song and movement was everywhere. Be sure to ask any locals you
encounter for permission to walk the trails. I had no trouble
getting permission (I showed them pictures of Black-throated
Magpie-Jay). I encountered one local, named Sosamo, and asked
permission
to walk the trails. He not only gave permission, he grabbed a
machete and walked along with me. Be sure to heed my warning
regarding chiggers!
Note: for a more complete description of El Guamuchil, including a site
list, read Blake Maybank's trip report here.
The following is a list of species seen on
the hike up the El Guamuchil valley:
Gray Hawk
Common Black-Hawk
Turkey Vulture
Black Vulture
West Mexican Chachalaca
Common Ground-Dove
Ruddy Ground-Dove
White-tipped Dove
Inca Dove
Orange-fronted Parakeet
Mexican Parrotlet
Groove-billed Ani
Berylline Hummingbird
Cinnamon Hummingbird
Squirrel Cuckoo
Elegant Trogon
Golden-cheeked Woodpecker
Lineated Woodpecker
Ivory-billed Woodcreeper
Ash-throated Flycatcher
Greater Kiskadee
Social Flycatcher
Masked Tityra
Happy Wren
Sinaloa Wren
Rufous-backed Thrush
Swainson’s Thrush
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Black-throated Magpie-Jay
Cassin’s Vireo
Warbling Vireo
Orange-crowned Warbler
Nashville Warbler
Tropical Parula
Black-throated Gray Warbler
Wilson’s Warbler
Hooded Oriole
Streak-backed Oriole
Stripe-headed Sparrow
Yellow-winged Cacique
Yellow Grosbeak
Great-tailed Grackle
Bronzed Cowbird
Alan Welby
antpitta AT comcast.net
