October - November 1996
by Chris Carpenter
This is a report of a trip which my wife and I put together in about two months and took by ourselves in October - November, 1996. This was one of the most pleasant, bird-filled trips we have done on our own (so to speak, as you will see). Many, many thanks go to those who responded to requests for information, particularly Judy Davis, Dalcio Dacol, Richard Fairbank, John Wall, Annika Forsten, Rob Goldbach, Ellen Paul, and Claudius Feger. Their generosity contributed greatly to our smooth sailing and the enjoyment of this area. Northern Argentina and southeast Brazil are wonderful, although they can be expensive. We found the roads good, accommodations first rate, food delicious and plentiful to a fault, and the people were extremely warm and friendly, with a joyous approach to life. Be prepared to speak some Portuguese, and for English (and even Spanish) to be little understood in many areas of Brazil. We had a Berlitz Portuguese phrase book which was extremely helpful. If you haven't been to Brazil, go see it.
Oct 30 - November 3 -- Iguacu Falls (Brazil) & Iguazu Falls NP (Argentina).
Peggy and I left San Francisco on Tuesday, Oct. 29 at 1 pm. After back to back, nonstop flights from SFO to Miami and Miami to Sao Paulo, we landed in Brazil at 10:30 am the next day. Two hours later we were on the 90 minute Varig flight to Foz do Iguacu. The southern part of Brazil was pretty green, mostly developed agricultural land with deep brick red earth. Only as we approached Iguazu did we begin to see extensive forest on either side of the border with Argentina. We came in right over the Iguazu River, snaking below us, very brown. Just as I was beginning to wonder if we'd see the falls from the air on this very clear day the pilot put the 737 into a hard banking turn and did a complete 360 degree circle directly above the falls. What a great beginning!
We were greeted by Miguel Castelinho, our guide for the next five days. Miguel drove us across the border, crossing the bridge into Argentina, and on to the Hotel Internacional Iguazu. This is a 5 star hotel, the only one situated in the Argentine side of Iguazu National Park. (The Das Cataratas - also 5 star - is the only hotel in the park on the Brazil side, Iguacu NP. Peggy is a travel agent and after seeing both says the Cataratas looks better from the outside and in the public areas, and has better food, but the rooms are smaller and dark.). We came here because everyone seems to agree that birding is better on the Argentine side.
We started birding about 15 minutes after checking in, just on the hotel grounds. Two of my most wanted birds, Plush-crested Jay and Toco Toucan, were seen within minutes, and both proved to be quite regular in the area. Tanagers, toucanets, Rufous horneros, blackbirds, hummers - they just kept coming as we strolled the area of the falls. The walkways here get you right next to the thundering water. They had just had many days of rainfall so the falls were quite full. We had very little rain the entire trip.
Miguel proved to be a great guide, arranged for us by Doug Trent at Focus Tours. The arrangements were not inexpensive, by any means, but Miguel speaks fluent English, knows the parks like the back of his hand and has tapes of all the birds. So we saw lots over the several days we were there. Only one day did we go to the Brazilian side. What a day! Having a calling Tataupa Tinamou stroll across the trail in front of you is quite a treat. It is by far the most colorful tinamou I've ever seen. The buffet lunch at the Das Cataratas was superb.
We did different trails each morning and afternoon on the Argentine side and still didn't cover all of it. If you do this trip on your own you MUST have a tape recorder. Many birds just skulk until called out. Later in the trip, when by ourselves, we used a very small, cheap recorder and a small directional mike - probably the minimum you could get away with - and even they were invaluable. The maps in Wheatley's book (Where to Bird in South America) are actually pretty good, since the trails are quite obvious and you can't really get off into the forest. This area is loaded with birds and you only want to wish for cloudy weather to keep them active throughout the day. It gets VERY hot here in the direct sunlight and stays hot until 6 pm.
Contrary to most guidebooks, credit cards were easily used at the hotels, and travelers checks easily cashed. In this area, where Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay come together all the national currencies, and US dollars, are used interchangeably as they are all worth roughly (within a few cents) the same. The falls themselves are gorgeous and well worth the trip. All in all a great place to visit.
Our schedule at Iguazu (following the map at page 63 of Wheatley):
October 30 - p.m. around hotel, park HQ, falls lower trails
October 31 - a.m. marsh area & hide past park office,
Macuco
trail
- p.m. lower El Timbo trail (from Puerto Canoas Rd to first gate, near
house)
November 1 - a.m. Brazil side, trail 100m past and opposite
safari
tourist ride
- p.m. El Timbo
trail (from first gate near house on)
November 2 - a.m. trail from Canal 13 tv tower (off the road
between park and P. Iguazu
- p.m. trail
past park residences Iguazu park
November 3 - am trail into forest opposite park entrance road turnoff by road sign
November 4 - 5 -- Ubatuba.
After a flight back to Sao Paulo we rented a car (pre-reserved) from Hertz. (Make sure that you get from the local Hertz, in writing, the rental rate, that it is for unlimited kilometers, that there is no drop charge, and settle the insurance question before you accept the car. We had some hassles when we returned the car in Rio, although eventually all worked out). We then drove to Ubatuba on the Atlantic coast. The drive is easy, first by multi lane, divided toll highway; then by two lane road which was wide enough to feel very comfortable. The only unnerving thing about Brazilian driving is that everyone tailgates to within a few inches of your rear bumper. Once you get used to it the rest is easy. Roads are well signposted. We got great advice to get a Brazilian road map book called Guia Rodoviario (easily found at the Sao Paulo airport bookstore - about $10, and worth every penny - it covers the entire country).
The Brazilian east coast near Ubatuba is spectacularly beautiful, with lots of remaining forest coming right down to the sea. We stayed at the Hotel Porto di Mare (very comfy, nice people), west of town on a beach near the Hotel Sol e Vida (lovely but full). Finding the two fazendas to bird at was not easy because most locals along the highway never heard of them and the kilometer signs are down. Starting at the "main" roundabout on the north edge of town (we came in from the west, at the circle the road to Rio Taubate goes north, Ubatuba south, and Rio/Parati east) go east on the main coastal highway exactly 3.8 km from the circle. Turn left (north) off the highway on an obviously paved road (the only one in the area, all others being dirt). After 100-200m or so there is a wide road (dirt when we were there) angling off to the right. This leads to Fazenda Angelim, about 1 km farther and easily reached by continuing across the low cement bridge and proceeding to the end. Park outside the gate and walk in. The sign at the gate says you need permission to enter from John Thomsen, listing his tel. # in Sao Paulo 011-461-1444 and Ubatuba 432-495. The head caretaker at the fazenda is Tino, who is quite obliging.
To reach Fazenda Capricornio you continue straight past the Angelim turnoff, staying generally straight on the paved road (no right or left turns) for about 1 km until the road starts to peter out past a school, turning into dirt and going down and across a stream (past the washed out bridge). As you reach the dirt part you can glimpse a "Fazenda Capricornio" sign across the stream. Continue into the property and park near the houses. They are used to birders and were very friendly. We took them some small gifts as thanks for allowing us to use the property. At both fazendas we just birded the clearings and walked the few obvious trails.
November 6 - 7 -- Parati - Cunha Rd.
We decided to splurge for a couple of days rest, and it turned out to be a great idea. Just 90 minutes east of Ubatuba along the coast is the very picturesque village of Parati. The old part of town is nicely preserved and there are many pousadas and restaurants in town. We stayed at Pousada Pardieiro, who can be reached by email at "pardiero@uol.com.br" (the different spellings are correct). This is one of the warmest, most relaxing places we've been. Very classy but casual and the service is outstanding. Great food too. The waterfront area here may be worth exploring and there are boat trips to offshore islands.
We spent one morning on the road to Cunha, which goes into the southwestern edge of the Serra de Bocaina NP. About 10 km from Parati the paved road turns to dirt and within 2 km we had to stop and walk. The wet, muddy road is very difficult to drive with a conventional auto. We walked about 4 to 5 km uphill, past several small farms which cut large patches out of the forest. Above a small farm signposted "Barraga de Amizade" the birding was very good, and looking higher up it appeared the forest was less cut over. This is an area that is probably worth much more exploration. Here we had Mantled Hawk, Black Hawk-Eagle and Azure-shouldered Tanager.
November 8 - November 13 -- Itatiaia National Park.
We drove east to Angra Dos Reis, then north (and west a bit) to Itatiaia. Just before Angra Dos Reis at KM109 there is a small dirt road south toward the sea. Here is a spot (the only spot?) to look for Black-hooded Antwren, which we did not see. We did get Chestnut-backed Antshrike. The road from Angra to Barra Mansa is two lane with lots of trucks. From Barra to Itatiaia is the "Dutra" - the Rio to Sao Paulo highway, which is divided road but filled with trucks and speeding tailgaters. Not very relaxing.
Itatiaia NP is a wonderful place, quite well developed in terms of roads and hotels, but still mostly forest filled with birds. We stayed at Hotel do Ype, which is the highest into the main part of the park. We had cabin 18, with a view of the forest. Good food, very comfortable, and the owners are quite gracious. We got our reservation here through Christoph Hrdina, c/o Andre Safari & Tours, Manaus, Brazil. Fax: 00 55 61 3674011; Tel: 00 55 61 3674443.
Birding was good on the jeep trail past the Maromba bridge above the H. do Ype (although there is a locked gate about 1 -2 km up the track (easily passed through, we tried to ask the park guard at the bridge for permission but he said no, for no apparent reason; later we talked to someone who had walked past it for quite a distance with no problem); the Tres Picos trail behind the Hotel Simon; and the grounds of the hotels. The trail from the park road below the H. do Ype to the H. Simon was very productive. Harold Simon, owner, lives in front of the hotel and was very friendly. His feeders had birds throughout the day.
One day we went to the highest part of the park on the Alguhas Negras Rd. The beginning of the road is easily reached within an hour from the H. do Ype on good road (west from Itatiaia on the Dutra, then north through Eng. Passos toward Cuxambu). We found the lower part of the AN road very active early so missed some things higher up as it was later in the day and fairly clear and warm. The AN road is quite potholed and thus very slow. The "marsh" Wheatley mentions, "6 km" above Eng. Passos is not easy to find. Between KM 18 & KM 19 (of the Eng. Passos - Cuxambu Rd, well marked) there is a dirt road which angles down off to the right as you drive uphill. It is good dirt surface, through farmland, and had lots of good stuff like Streamer-tailed Tyrant, White-rumped Monjita and Firewood-Gatherer.
November 14 -- Rio de Janeiro.
We didn't do any birding here, only tourist stuff. Apparently the Tijuca Forest is good birding right in Rio. There is an outstanding churrascaria (all you can eat fancy salad bar and every possible type of meat) in the Ipanema area, a restaurant called "Porcao" which we very highly recommend. This is a lovely restaurant with delicious food. Don't plan to eat ever again after dining there, you'll be full for a week!
We have no financial interest in any of the suppliers of travel or accommodations. These are mentioned only for information and because we used them. Gosto muito da pais. Que lindo!
TRIP LIST
| COMMON NAME | SCIENTIFIC NAME | NOTES AND COMMENTS | |
| Brown Tinamou (H) | Crypterellus obsoletus | heard on the El Timbo trail, Iguazu | |
| Tataupa Tinamou | Crypterellus tautapus | a beautiful tinamou, seen well on the Brazilian side at Iguacu Falls | |
| Rusty-margined Guan | Penelope superciliaris | Brazilian side, Iguacu Falls | |
| Dusky-legged Guan | Penelope obscura | common at Itatiaia NP around and above Hotel do Ype | |
| Muscovy Duck | Cairina moschata | a single bird at the marsh in Igauzu Falls NP | |
| White-barred Piculet | Picumnus cirratus | seen daily along the coast at Ubatuba, Cunha Rd | |
| Ochre-collared Piculet | Picumnus temminckii | single birds twice at Igauzu NP | |
| Yellow-fronted Woodpecker | Melanerpes flavifrons | fairly common at all places; very handsome | |
| White-spotted Woodpecker | Venilornis spilogaster | two at Iguazu; one at Itatiaia | |
| Yellow-browed Woodpecker | Piculus aurulentus | one at Itatiaia, Hotel Simon behind pool | |
| Green-barred Woodpecker | Colaptes melanochloros | two at Iguazu, both sides; one at Itatiaia | |
| Campo Flicker | Colaptes campestris | on the grounds of Hotel Internacional - both subspecies | |
| Blond-crested Woodpecker | Celeus flavescens | fabulous bird; El Timbo trail, beyond station | |
| Robust Woodpecker | Campephilus robustus | El Timbo trail, Iguazu NP | |
| Chestnut-eared Aracari | Pteroglossus castanotis | regular at Iguazu; one at Itatiaia | |
| Saffron Toucanet | Baillonius bailloni | a pair at breakfast at Hotel do Ype, Itatiaia | |
| Spot-billed Toucanet | Selenidera maculirostris | one female on Macuco Trail, Iguazu | |
| Red-breasted Toucan | Ramphastos dichlorus | regular everywhere | |
| Toco Toucan | Ramphastos toco | grounds of Hotel Internacional, elsewhere Iguazu | |
| White-necked (Buff-bellied) Puffbird | Notharchus macrorhyncus swainsoni | Macuco trail | |
| Crescent-chested Puffbird | Malacoptila striata | single bird at Fazenda Angelim, river trail | |
| White-tailed Trogon | Trogon viridis | Cunha Road | |
| Black-throated Trogon | Trogon rufus | Iguazu | |
| Surucua Trogon | Trogon surrucua | ||
| "Red-bellied" Trogon | Trogon surrucua surrucura | Iguacu Falls, regularly seen and heard | |
| "Yellow/Orange-bellied" Trogon | Trogon surrucua aurantius | Itatiaia NP; several heard; saw single bird | |
| Rufous-capped Motmot | Baryphthengus ruficappilus | Iguacu, hard to see, easy to hear | |
| Ringed Kingfisher | Megaceryle torquata | ||
| Amazon Kingfisher | Chloroceryle amazona | ||
| Green Kingfisher | Chloroceryle americana | ||
| Squirrel Cuckoo | Piaya cayana | ||
| Greater Ani | Crotophaga major | Iguazu NP - regular | |
| Smooth-billed Ani | Crotophaga ani | ||
| Guira Cuckoo | Guira guira | grounds of Hotel Internacional | |
| Striped Cuckoo | Tapera naevia | ||
| White-eyed Parakeet | Aratinga leucopthalmus | Iguazu NP | |
| Maroon-bellied Parrakeet | Pyrrhura frontalis | regularly seen throughout trip | |
| Blue-winged Parrotlet | Forpus xanthopterygius | surprisingly tame, near tourist shops Iguazu | |
| Plain Parakeet | Brotogeris tirica | Ubatuba | |
| Pileated Parrot | Pionopsitta pileata | Iguazu NP | |
| Scaly-headed Parrot | Pionus maximiliani | few at Iguazu; several at Itatiaia, Tres Picos trail | |
| Sooty Swift | Cypseloides fumigatus | Itatiaia | |
| Great Dusky Swift | Cypseloides senex | if you miss these at Iguazu you aren't birding or looking at the falls | |
| White-collared Swift | Streptoprocne zonaris | common daily at Itatiaia NP | |
| Gray-rumped Swift | Chaetura c. cinereiventris | Cunha Rd | |
| Ashy-tailed Swift | Chaetura andrei | 2 at Iguazu; a few daily at Itatiaia | |
| Scale-throated Hermit | Phaethornis eurynome | single birds at Iguazu; Itatiaia | |
| Planalto Hermit | Phaethornis pretrei | single bird at Cunha Rd | |
| Reddish Hermit | Phaethornis ruber | Ubatuba | |
| Saw-billed Hermit | Ramphodon naevius | 2 each day at Ubatuba, way back on forest trails | |
| Swallow-tailed Hummingbird | Eupetomena macroura | Ubatuba, Parati | |
| Black Jacobin | Melanotrochilus fuscus | common daily at Ubatuba, Itatiaia; hard to miss | |
| White-vented Violetear | Colibri serrirostris | Alguhas Negras ranger station, Itatiaia NP | |
| Black-throated Mango | Anthracothorax prevostii | Cunha Rd | |
| Frilled Coquette | Lophornis magnificus | daily around 5 pm, Hotel Simon garden | |
| Glittering-bellied Emerald | Chlorostilbon aureoventris | few singles at Iguazu | |
| Violet-capped Woodnymph | Thalurania glaucopis | regular at Itatiaia | |
| White-throated Hummingbird | Leucochloris albicollis | singles daily at Itatiaia | |
| Versicolored Emerald | Amazilia versicolor | Iguazu, Itatiaia - one bird each place | |
| Brazilian Ruby | Clytolaema rubricauda | Itatiaia; regular at Haroldo Simon's feeders | |
| Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl | Glaucidium brasilianum | Iguazu | |
| Grey Potoo | Nyctibius griseus | El Timbo corner | |
| Chestnut-banded Nighthawk | Lurocalis semitorquatus nattereri | El Timbo trail | |
| Rock Dove | Columba livia | ||
| Picazuro Pigeon | Columba picazuro | common at Iguazu; a few at Itatiaia | |
| Pale-vented Pigeon | Columba cayannensis | ||
| Ruddy Ground-Dove | Columbina talpacoti | ||
| Brazilian (White-tipped) Dove | Leptotila verreauxi brasiliensis | heard at Iguazu | |
| Gray-fronted Dove | Leptotila rufaxilla | ||
| Ruddy Quail-Dove | Geotrygon montana | on the trail to Hotel Simon | |
| Rufous-sided Crake (H) | Laterallus melanophaius | heard regularly from the hide at Iguazu | |
| Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail | Aramides saracura | 2 birds on the P. Canoas Rd, Iguazu; 2 H. do Ype | |
| Ash-throated Crake | Porzana albicollis | seen near the hide at Iguazu | |
| Blackish Rail (H) | Pardirallus nigricans | heard near the hide at Iguazu | |
| Purple Gallinule | Porphyrio martinicus | ||
| Southern Lapwing | Vanellus chilensis | grounds of H. Internacional, Iguazu | |
| Swallow-tailed Kite | Elanoides forficatus | Iguazu | |
| Snail Kite | Rostrhamus sociabilis | seen daily at Iguazu | |
| Rufous-thighed Kite | Harpagus diodon | Ubatuba, Itatiaia | |
| Plumbeous Kite | Ictinia plumbea | common at Iguazu | |
| Rufous-thighed Hawk | Accipiter erythronemius | Itatiaia | |
| Mantled Hawk | Leucopternis polionota | a single bird high on the Parati - Cunha Rd | |
| Roadside Hawk | Buteo magnirostris | single birds seen most places | |
| Black Hawk-Eagle | Spizaetus tyrannus | a single bird high on the Parati - Cunha Rd | |
| Crested Caracara | Polyborus plancus | Alguhas Negras Rd, upper part | |
| Yellow-headed Caracara | Milvago chimachima | single birds at Iguazu, Ubatuba, Itatiaia | |
| American Kestrel | Falco sparverius | ||
| Anhinga | Anhinga anhinga | ||
| Neotropic Cormorant | Phalacrocorax brasilianus | ||
| Snowy Egret | Egretta thula | ||
| Great Egret | Casmerodius albus | ||
| Striated Heron | Butorides striatus | ||
| Cattle Egret | Bubulcus ibis | ||
| Black-crowned Night-Heron | Nycticorax nycticorax | ||
| Black Vulture | Coragyps atratus | ||
| Turkey Vulture | Cathartes aura | ||
| Magnificent Frigatebird | Fregata magnificens | ||
| Gray-hooded Flycatcher | Mionectes rufiventris | one at the entrance to Fazenda Angelim | |
| Sepia-capped Flycatcher | Leptopogon amaurocephalus | two at Iguazu | |
| Drab-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant | Hemitriccus diops | one on the jeep trail at Itatiaia | |
| Hangnest Tody-Tyrant | Hemitriccus nidipendulus | one at Ubatuba | |
| Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher | Todirostrum plumbeiceps one on the lower El Timbo trail | ||
| Yellow-lored Tody-Flycatcher | Todirostrum poliocephalum | regular at Ubatuba | |
| Southern Antpipit | Corythopis delalandi | at the first corner of the Macuco trail, Iguazu | |
| Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet | Camptostoma obsoletum | 3 seen on the lower El Timbo trail | |
| Yellow Tyrannulet | Capsiempis flaveola | one on trail past park residences, Iguazu | |
| Gray Elaenia | Myiopagis caniceps | easy to miss, high in trees at Iguazu | |
| Greenish Elaenia | Myiopagis viridicata | one at Iguacu | |
| Yellow-bellied Elaenia | Elaenia flavogaster | a few at Iguazu | |
| Highland Elaenia | Elaenia obscura | two on the Alguhas Negras Rd | |
| White-crested Tyrannulet | Serpophaga subcristata | Itatiaia | |
| Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant | Euscarthmus meloryphus | at the pond near the entrance, Iguazu | |
| Southern Bristle-Tyrant | Phylloscartes eximius | Cunha Rd | |
| Eared Pygmy-Tyrant | Myiornis auricularis | two on lower El Timbo trail, Iguazu | |
| Yellow-Olive Flycatcher | Tolmomyias sulpherescens | ||
| White-throated Spadebill | Platyrinchus mystaceus | Ubatuba, Itatiaia | |
| Bran-colored Flycatcher | Myiophobus fasciatus | Iguazu, Itatiaia | |
| Sulfur-rumped Flycatcher | Myiobius barbatus | Ubatuba | |
| Swallow Flycatcher | Hirundinea bellicosa | Ubatuba, Itatiaia - at Hotel do Ype | |
| Fuscous Flycatcher | Cnemotriccus fuscatus | 3 birds at Iguazu | |
| Euler's Flycatcher | Lathrotriccus euleri | Iguazu, Cunha Rd, Itatiaia | |
| White-rumped Monjita | Xolmis velata | along "marsh" road near Eng. Passos | |
| Blue-billed Black-Tyrant | Knipolegus cyanirostris | Alguhas Negras Rd, many near pond | |
| Velvety Black-Tyrant | Knipolegus nigerrimus | Alguhas Negras Rd, higher near rocks | |
| Crested Black-Tyrant | Knipolegus lophotes | a pair at bridge just below park HQ, Itatiaia | |
| Masked Water-Tyrant | Fluvicola nengeta | in town at Itaiaia | |
| Streamer-tailed Tyrant | Gubernetes yetapa | along "marsh" road near Eng. Passos | |
| Long-tailed Tyrant | Colonia colonus | a few at both Iguazu, Itatiaia | |
| Cattle Tyrant | Machetornis rixosus | regularly seen at Iguazu, also seen at Itatiaia | |
| Sirystes | Sirystes sibilator | finally got this devil! twice at Iguazu; three at Itatiaia | |
| Swainson's Flycatcher | Myiarchus s. swainsoni | Iguazu | |
| Short-crested Flycatcher | Myiarchus ferox | Itaiaia | |
| Large-headed Flatbill | Ramphotrigon megacephala | two at Iguacu | |
| Tropical Kingbird | Tyrannus melancholicus | ||
| Eastern Kingbird | Tyrannus tyrannus | one at marsh in Iguazu NP | |
| Fork-tailed Flycatcher | Tyrannus savana | over 50 birds seen migrating through Iguazu, Ubatuba | |
| Variegated Flycatcher | Empidonomus varius | Iguazu | |
| Boat-billed Flycatcher | Megarynchus pitangua | ||
| Three-striped Flycatcher | Conopias trivirgata | tv tower trail at Iguazu | |
| Streaked Flycatcher | Myiodynastes maculatus | ||
| Social Flycatcher | Myiozetetes similis | ||
| Piratic Flycatcher | Legatus leucophaius | Ubatuba | |
| Great Kiskadee | Pitangus sulfuratus | ||
| Greenish Schiffornis | Schiffornis virescens | Iguazu; Itatiaia on jeep trail, other places | |
| Green-backed Becard | Pachyramphus viridis | Iguazu, El Timbo trail; Ubatuba, F. Capricornio | |
| Chestnut-crowned Becard | Pachyramphus castaneus | Itatiaia, near H. do Ype | |
| Black-capped Becard | Pachyramphus marginatus | Ubatuba, F. Capricornio | |
| Crested Becard | Pachyramphus validus | fairly common at Ubatuba; also seen Itatiaia | |
| Black-tailed Tityra | Tityra cayana | Ubatuba, Itatiaia | |
| Black-crowned Tityra | Tityra inquisitor | regular everywhere | |
| Swallow-tailed Cotinga | Phibalura flavirostris | three of these elegant birds | |
| well seen on the Alguhas Negras Rd, lower down | |||
| Black-and-gold Cotinga | Tijuca atra | heard only on lower Alguhas Negras Rd | |
| Buff-throated Purpletuft | Iodopleura pipra | at top of bare tree, Ubatuba, F. Angelim | |
| Red-ruffed Fruitcrow | Pyroderus scutatus | a single bird at dusk, way out on El Timbo trail | |
| Swallow-tailed (Blue) Manakin | Chiroxiphia caudata | commonly heard, sometimes seen on Macuco trail shortly after beginning, Iguazu; also on road just above H. do Ype, and near beginning of Tres Picos trail, Itatiaia | |
| Spot-backed Antshrike | Hypoedaleus guttatus | F. Angelim, trail to river, stayed in canopy | |
| Tufted Antshrike | Mackenziaena severa | real skulker glimpsed at Iguazu; H. Simon trail | |
| Chestnut-backed Antshrike | Thamnophilus p. palliatus | km 109, near Angra Dos Reis | |
| Variable Antshrike | Thamnophilus caeruslescens gilvigaster | well named; Iguazu, Itatiaia | |
| Spot-breasted Antvireo | Dysithamnus stictothorax | F. Angelim river trail, Ubatuba | |
| Plain Antvireo | Dysithamnus mentalis | ||
| Star-throated Antwren | Myrmotherula gularis | waterfall trail at Itatiaia, below road near do Ype | |
| Rufous-winged Antwren | Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus | one on lower El Timbo trail, Iguazu | |
| Ferruginous Antbird | Drymophila ferruginea | nine seen at Ubatuba | |
| Bertoni's Antbird | Drymophila rubricollis | one seen on Tres Picos trail, Itatiaia | |
| Scaled Antbird | Drymophila squamata | one on river trail, F. Angelim | |
| Streak-capped Antwren | Terenura maculata | one at Iguazu; a few at Ubatuba | |
| White-shouldered Fire-eye | Pyriglena leucoptera | one at Iguacu; also Tres Picos trail, Itatiaia | |
| Rufous Hornero | Furnarius rufus | easy to find, parking lot at Iguazu; marsh road, E. Passos | |
| Rufous-capped Spinetail | Synallaxis ruficapilla | jeep trail Itaiaia | |
| Chicli Spinetail | Synallaxis spixi | small bird, seen on the marsh road near Eng. Passos | |
| Firewood-Gatherer | Anumbius annumbi | seen on the marsh road near Eng. Passos | |
| Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper | Lochmias nematura | waterfall trail at Itatiaia | |
| Pale-browed Treehunter | Cichlocolaptes leucophrus | Ubatuba, F. Capricornio | |
| Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner | Syndactyla rufosuperciliata | Alguhas Negras Road | |
| White-browed Foliage-gleaner | Philydor amaurotis | at base of Tres Picos trail | |
| Ochre-breasted Foliage-gleaner | Philydor lichtensteini | regular at Iguazu | |
| Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner | Philydor rufus | regular at Itatiaia | |
| White-collared Foliage-gleaner | Anabazenops fuscus | jeep trail, tres Picos trail, Itaiaia | |
| White-eyed Foliage-gleaner | Automulus leucopthalmus | single bird at Iguacu NP | |
| Sharp-billed Treehunter | Heliobletus contaminatus | jeep trail, Itatiaia | |
| Plain Xenops | Xenops minutus | Iguacu | |
| Thrush-like (Plain) Woodcreeper | Dendrocincla turdina | Iguacu, Iguazu | |
| Olivaceous Woodcreeper | Sittasomus griseicapillus | common at Iguazu, also seen Itatiaia | |
| White-throated Woodcreeper | Xiphocolaptes albicollis | singles at Iguazu, Itatiaia | |
| Planalto Woodcreeper | Dendrocolaptes platyrostris | two at Iguazu, two at Itatiaia | |
| Scaled Woodcreeper | Lepidocolaptes squamatus | three seen at Itatiaia, first at H. do Ype | |
| Lesser Woodcreeper | Lepidocolaptes fuscus | near start of Tres Picos trail, Itatiaia | |
| Black-billed Scythebill | Campyloramphus falcularius | one along trail to H. Simon, Itatiaia | |
| Short-tailed Antthrush | Chamaeza campanisona | very responsive, well seen on Tres Picos trail | |
| Rufous-tailed Antthrush | Chamaeza ruficauda | one seen from road near H. do Ype, many heard | |
| Variegated Antpitta | Grallaria varia | got good looks after 45 minutes of effort, very responsive on jeep trail at Itatiaia - don't give up, its really worth the wait! | |
| Rufous Gnateater | Conopophaga lineata | one on tv tower trail, Iguazu | |
| Rufous-browed Peppershrike | Cyclarhis gujanensis | heard, seen often Cunha Rd; Itatiaia | |
| Red-eyed Vireo | Vireo olivaceus chivi | brown eyed version, common to abundant throughout | |
| Rufous-crowned Greenlet | Hylophilus poicilotis | a few seen at Itatiaia | |
| Plush-crested Jay | Cyanocorax chrysops | love this bird, easily seen at Iguazu | |
| Yellow-legged Thrush | Platycichla flavipes | fairly easy to see at Ubatuba | |
| Rufous-bellied Thrush | Turdus rufiventris | common at Itatiaia; also seen at Iguazu, Ubatuba | |
| Pale-breasted Thrush | Turdus leucomelas | common at Iguazu, also seen at Itatiaia | |
| Creamy-bellied Thrush | Turdus amaurochalinus | one seen at Iguazu | |
| White-necked Thrush | Turdus albicollis albicollis | single birds at Iguazu, Itatiaia | |
| Chalk-browed Mockingbird | Mimus saturninus | grounds of H. Internacional; also at Eng. Passos | |
| Southern House Wren | Troglodytes aedon musculus | ||
| Creamy-bellied Gnatcatcher | Polioptila lactea | two along outer El Timbo trail | |
| Gray-breasted Martin | Progne chalybea | ||
| Blue-and-white Swallow | Notiochelidon cyanoleuca | ||
| Southern Rough-winged Swallow | Stelgidopteryx ruficollis | ||
| Hooded Siskin | Carduelis megellenica | single bird at Itatiaia | |
| Rufous-collared Sparrow | Zonotrichia capensis | ||
| Tropical Parula | Parula pitiayumi | ||
| Masked Yellowthroat | Geothlypis a. aequinoctialis | ||
| Golden-crowned Warbler | Basileuterus culicivorous auricapillus | common everywhere | |
| Neotropical River Warbler | Basileuterus rivularis | single birds at Iguacu; Ubatuba | |
| Bananaquit | Coereba flaveola | ||
| Chestnut-vented Conebill | Conirostrum speciosum | fairly common at Iguazu | |
| Brown Tanager | Orchesticus abeillei | Ubatuba | |
| Magpie Tanager | Cissopis leveriana | a few at Iguazu; very common at Itatiaia | |
| Orange-headed Tanager | Thlypopsis sordida | two at H. Simon's feeder, Itatiaia | |
| Guira Tanager | Hemithraupis guira | seen daily at Iguazu | |
| Rufous-headed Tanager | Hemithraupis ruficapilla | one at F. Capricornio, a beauty | |
| Olive-green Tanager | Orthogonys chloricterus | group of birds seen on jeep trail, Itatiaia | |
| Flame-crested Tanager | Tachyphonus cristatus | F. Angelim, Ubatuba | |
| Ruby-crowned Tanager | Tachyphonus coronatus | a few birds encountered throughout trip | |
| Black-goggled Tanager | Trichothraupis melanops | seen daily in small numbers at Iguazu | |
| Red-crowned Ant-Tanager | Habia rubica | Macuco trail, Iguazu | |
| Brazilian Tanager | Ramphocelus bresilius | Wow! Ubatuba, daily | |
| Sayaca Tanager | Thraupis sayaca | seen regularly and easily throughout trip | |
| Azure-shouldered Tanager | Thraupis cyanoptera | single bird, near our high spot on Cunha Rd | |
| Golden-chevroned Tanager | Thraupis ornata | few at Ubatuba; common at Itatiaia | |
| Palm Tanager | Thraupis palmarum | ||
| Diademed Tanager | Stephanophorus diadematus | at least ten birds on upper Alguhas Negras Rd | |
| Fawn-breasted Tanager | Pipraeidea melanonota | Itatiaia | |
| Purple-throated Euphonia | Euphonia chlorotica | twice seen at Iguazu; once at Ubatuba | |
| Violaceous Euphonia | Euphonia violacea | several at Iguazu | |
| Chestnut-bellied Euphonia | Euphonia pectoralis | a few at Iguazu; Ubatuba; Itatiaia | |
| Blue-naped Chlorophonia | Chlorophonia cyanea | three total at Iguazu | |
| Green-headed Tanager | Tangara celedon | snappy start at hotel, easily seen Iguazu; Ubatuba | |
| Red-necked Tanager | Tangara cyanocephala | WOW!!! a stunner, common at Ubatuba | |
| Brassy-breasted Tanager | Tangara desmaresti | another beauty, easily seen on Alguhas Negras Rd | |
| Burnished-buff Tanager | Tangara cayana flava | dark bellied race, "marsh" near Eng. Passos | |
| Blue Dacnis | Dacnis cayana | common at Iguazu, Ubatuba | |
| Swallow Tanager | Tersina viridis | commmon at hotel, Iguazu; also seen Itatiaia | |
| Red-crested Finch | Coryphospingus cucullatus | on road near Macuco trail entrance, Iguazu | |
| Bay-chested Warbling-Finch | Poospiza thoracica | four seen on lower Alguhas Negras Road | |
| Red-rumped Warbling-Finch | Poospiza l. lateralis | nine seen on lower Alguhas Negras Road | |
| Saffron Finch | Sicalis flaveola | finally, countable birds! daily at Iguazu | |
| Great Pampa-Finch | Embernagra p. platensis | a very tame bird at rocks on upper Alguhas Negras Rd; this bird looked very little like the Ridgely plate, with bright olive back, bright orange lower mandible | |
| Blue-black Grassquit | Volatinia jacarina | ||
| Double-collared Seedeater | Sporophila caerulescens | regularly seen throughout | |
| Lesser Seed-Finch | Oryzoborus angolensis | singing bird at entrance to Iguazu NP | |
| Sooty Grassquit | Tiaris fuliginosa | near entrance to F. Angelim, Ubatuba | |
| Green-winged Saltator | Saltator similis | Itatiaia; regularly heard, saw two on H. Simon trail | |
| Thick-billed Saltator | Saltator maxillosus | two on Alguhas Negras Rd | |
| Red-rumped Cacique | Cacicus haemorrhous | common to abundant throughout | |
| Epaulet Oriole | Icterus cayanensis | one near marsh at Iguazu | |
| Chopi Blackbird | Gnorimopsar chopi | Iguazu, Ubatuba | |
| Shiny Cowbird | Molothrus aeneus | ||
| Giant Cowbird | Scaphidura oryzivora | several at Iguazu | |
| House Sparrow (I) | Passer domesticus | ||
Chris Carpenter
Oakland, CA USA
cgbirds@aol.com