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October - November 1996

by Chris Carpenter

This is a report of a trip which my wife and I put together in about two months and took by ourselves in October - November, 1996.  This was one of the most pleasant, bird-filled trips we have done on our own (so to speak, as you will see).  Many, many thanks go to those who responded to requests for information, particularly Judy Davis, Dalcio Dacol, Richard Fairbank, John Wall, Annika Forsten, Rob Goldbach, Ellen Paul, and Claudius Feger.  Their generosity contributed greatly to our smooth sailing and the enjoyment of this area.  Northern Argentina and southeast Brazil are wonderful, although they can be expensive.  We found the roads good, accommodations first rate, food delicious and plentiful to a fault, and the people were extremely warm and friendly, with a joyous approach to life.  Be prepared to speak some Portuguese, and for English (and even Spanish) to be little understood in many areas of Brazil.  We had a Berlitz Portuguese phrase book which was extremely helpful.  If you haven't been to Brazil, go see it.

Oct 30 - November 3  --  Iguacu Falls (Brazil) & Iguazu Falls NP (Argentina).

Peggy and I left San Francisco on Tuesday, Oct.  29 at 1 pm.  After back to back, nonstop flights from SFO to Miami and Miami to Sao Paulo, we landed in Brazil at 10:30 am the next day.  Two hours later we were on the 90 minute Varig flight to Foz do Iguacu.  The southern part of Brazil was pretty green, mostly developed agricultural land with deep brick red earth.  Only as we approached Iguazu did we begin to see extensive forest on either side of the border with Argentina.  We came in right over the Iguazu River, snaking below us, very brown.  Just as I was beginning to wonder if we'd see the falls from the air on this very clear day the pilot put the 737 into a hard banking turn and did a complete 360 degree circle directly above the falls.  What a great beginning!

We were greeted by Miguel Castelinho, our guide for the next five days.  Miguel drove us across the border, crossing the bridge into Argentina, and on to the Hotel Internacional Iguazu.  This is a 5 star hotel, the only one situated in the Argentine side of Iguazu National Park.  (The Das Cataratas - also 5 star - is the only hotel in the park on the Brazil side, Iguacu NP.  Peggy is a travel agent and after seeing both says the Cataratas looks better from the outside and in the public areas, and has better food, but the rooms are smaller and dark.).  We came here because everyone seems to agree that birding is better on the Argentine side.

We started birding about 15 minutes after checking in, just on the hotel grounds.  Two of my most wanted birds, Plush-crested Jay and Toco Toucan, were seen within minutes, and both proved to be quite regular in the area.  Tanagers, toucanets, Rufous horneros, blackbirds, hummers - they just kept coming as we strolled the area of the falls.  The walkways here get you right next to the thundering water.  They had just had many days of rainfall so the falls were quite full.  We had very little rain the entire trip.

Miguel proved to be a great guide, arranged for us by Doug Trent at Focus Tours.  The arrangements were not inexpensive, by any means, but Miguel speaks fluent English, knows the parks like the back of his hand and has tapes of all the birds.  So we saw lots over the several days we were there.  Only one day did we go to the Brazilian side.  What a day!  Having a calling Tataupa Tinamou stroll across the trail in front of you is quite a treat.  It is by far the most colorful tinamou I've ever seen.  The buffet lunch at the Das Cataratas was superb.

We did different trails each morning and afternoon on the Argentine side and still didn't cover all of it.  If you do this trip on your own you MUST have a tape recorder.  Many birds just skulk until called out.  Later in the trip, when by ourselves, we used a very small, cheap recorder and a small directional mike - probably the minimum you could get away with - and even they were invaluable.  The maps in Wheatley's book (Where to Bird in South America) are actually pretty good, since the trails are quite obvious and you can't really get off into the forest.  This area is loaded with birds and you only want to wish for cloudy weather to keep them active throughout the day.  It gets VERY hot here in the direct sunlight and stays hot until 6 pm.

Contrary to most guidebooks, credit cards were easily used at the hotels, and travelers checks easily cashed.  In this area, where Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay come together all the national currencies, and US dollars, are used interchangeably as they are all worth roughly (within a few cents) the same.  The falls themselves are gorgeous and well worth the trip.  All in all a great place to visit.

Our schedule at Iguazu (following the map at page 63 of Wheatley):

  October 30 - p.m. around hotel, park HQ, falls lower trails

  October 31 - a.m. marsh area & hide past park office, Macuco trail
            - p.m. lower El Timbo trail (from Puerto Canoas Rd to first gate, near house)

  November 1 - a.m. Brazil side, trail 100m past and opposite safari tourist ride
          - p.m. El Timbo trail (from first gate near house on)

  November 2 - a.m. trail from Canal 13 tv tower (off the road between park and P.  Iguazu
          - p.m. trail past park residences Iguazu park

  November 3 - am trail into forest opposite park entrance road turnoff by road sign

November 4 - 5  -- Ubatuba.

After a flight back to Sao Paulo we rented a car (pre-reserved) from Hertz.  (Make sure that you get from the local Hertz, in writing, the rental rate, that it is for unlimited kilometers, that there is no drop charge, and settle the insurance question before you accept the car.  We had some hassles when we returned the car in Rio, although eventually all worked out).  We then drove to Ubatuba on the Atlantic coast.  The drive is easy, first by multi lane, divided toll highway; then by two lane road which was wide enough to feel very comfortable.  The only unnerving thing about Brazilian driving is that everyone tailgates to within a few inches of your rear bumper.  Once you get used to it the rest is easy.  Roads are well signposted.  We got great advice to get a Brazilian road map book called Guia Rodoviario (easily found at the Sao Paulo airport bookstore - about $10, and worth every penny - it covers the entire country).

The Brazilian east coast near Ubatuba is spectacularly beautiful, with lots of remaining forest coming right down to the sea.  We stayed at the Hotel Porto di Mare (very comfy, nice people), west of town on a beach near the Hotel Sol e Vida (lovely but full).  Finding the two fazendas to bird at was not easy because most locals along the highway never heard of them and the kilometer signs are down.  Starting at the "main" roundabout on the north edge of town (we came in from the west, at the circle the road to Rio Taubate goes north, Ubatuba south, and Rio/Parati east) go east on the main coastal highway exactly 3.8 km from the circle.  Turn left (north) off the highway on an obviously paved road (the only one in the area, all others being dirt).  After 100-200m or so there is a wide road (dirt when we were there) angling off to the right.  This leads to Fazenda Angelim, about 1 km farther and easily reached by continuing across the low cement bridge and proceeding to the end.  Park outside the gate and walk in.  The sign at the gate says you need permission to enter from John Thomsen, listing his tel.  # in Sao Paulo 011-461-1444 and Ubatuba 432-495.  The head caretaker at the fazenda is Tino, who is quite obliging.

To reach Fazenda Capricornio you continue straight past the Angelim turnoff, staying generally straight on the paved road (no right or left turns) for about 1 km until the road starts to peter out past a school, turning into dirt and going down and across a stream (past the washed out bridge).  As you reach the dirt part you can glimpse a "Fazenda Capricornio" sign across the stream.  Continue into the property and park near the houses.  They are used to birders and were very friendly.  We took them some small gifts as thanks for allowing us to use the property.  At both fazendas we just birded the clearings and walked the few obvious trails.

November 6 - 7  --  Parati - Cunha Rd.

We decided to splurge for a couple of days rest, and it turned out to be a great idea.  Just 90 minutes east of Ubatuba along the coast is the very picturesque village of Parati.  The old part of town is nicely preserved and there are many pousadas and restaurants in town.  We stayed at Pousada Pardieiro, who can be reached by email at "" (the different spellings are correct).  This is one of the warmest, most relaxing places we've been.  Very classy but casual and the service is outstanding.  Great food too.  The waterfront area here may be worth exploring and there are boat trips to offshore islands.

We spent one morning on the road to Cunha, which goes into the southwestern edge of the Serra de Bocaina NP.  About 10 km from Parati the paved road turns to dirt and within 2 km we had to stop and walk.  The wet, muddy road is very difficult to drive with a conventional auto.  We walked about 4 to 5 km uphill, past several small farms which cut large patches out of the forest.  Above a small farm signposted "Barraga de Amizade" the birding was very good, and looking higher up it appeared the forest was less cut over.  This is an area that is probably worth much more exploration.  Here we had Mantled Hawk, Black Hawk-Eagle and Azure-shouldered Tanager.

November 8 - November 13  --  Itatiaia National Park.

We drove east to Angra Dos Reis, then north (and west a bit) to Itatiaia.  Just before Angra Dos Reis at KM109 there is a small dirt road south toward the sea.  Here is a spot (the only spot?) to look for Black-hooded Antwren, which we did not see.  We did get Chestnut-backed Antshrike.  The road from Angra to Barra Mansa is two lane with lots of trucks.  From Barra to Itatiaia is the "Dutra" - the Rio to Sao Paulo highway, which is divided road but filled with trucks and speeding tailgaters.  Not very relaxing.

Itatiaia NP is a wonderful place, quite well developed in terms of roads and hotels, but still mostly forest filled with birds.  We stayed at Hotel do Ype, which is the highest into the main part of the park.  We had cabin 18, with a view of the forest.  Good food, very comfortable, and the owners are quite gracious.  We got our reservation here through Christoph Hrdina, c/o Andre Safari & Tours, Manaus, Brazil.  Fax: 00 55 61 3674011; Tel: 00 55 61 3674443.

Birding was good on the jeep trail past the Maromba bridge above the H. do Ype (although there is a locked gate about 1 -2 km up the track (easily passed through, we tried to ask the park guard at the bridge for permission but he said no, for no apparent reason; later we talked to someone who had walked past it for quite a distance with no problem); the Tres Picos trail behind the Hotel Simon; and the grounds of the hotels.  The trail from the park road below the H. do Ype to the H.  Simon was very productive.  Harold Simon, owner, lives in front of the hotel and was very friendly.  His feeders had birds throughout the day.

One day we went to the highest part of the park on the Alguhas Negras Rd.  The beginning of the road is easily reached within an hour from the H. do Ype on good road (west from Itatiaia on the Dutra, then north through Eng.  Passos toward Cuxambu).  We found the lower part of the AN road very active early so missed some things higher up as it was later in the day and fairly clear and warm.  The AN road is quite potholed and thus very slow.  The "marsh" Wheatley mentions, "6 km" above Eng.  Passos is not easy to find.  Between KM 18 & KM 19 (of the Eng.  Passos - Cuxambu Rd, well marked) there is a dirt road which angles down off to the right as you drive uphill.  It is good dirt surface, through farmland, and had lots of good stuff like Streamer-tailed Tyrant, White-rumped Monjita and Firewood-Gatherer.

November 14  --  Rio de Janeiro.

We didn't do any birding here, only tourist stuff.  Apparently the Tijuca Forest is good birding right in Rio.  There is an outstanding churrascaria (all you can eat fancy salad bar and every possible type of meat) in the Ipanema area, a restaurant called "Porcao" which we very highly recommend.  This is a lovely restaurant with delicious food.  Don't plan to eat ever again after dining there, you'll be full for a week!

We have no financial interest in any of the suppliers of travel or accommodations.  These are mentioned only for information and because we used them.  Gosto muito da pais.  Que lindo!

Brown Tinamou (H)  Crypterellus obsoletus heard on the El Timbo trail, Iguazu
Tataupa Tinamou Crypterellus tautapus a beautiful tinamou, seen well on the Brazilian side at Iguacu Falls
Rusty-margined Guan Penelope superciliaris Brazilian side, Iguacu Falls
Dusky-legged Guan Penelope obscura common at Itatiaia NP around and above Hotel do Ype
Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata  a single bird at the marsh in Igauzu Falls NP
White-barred Piculet Picumnus cirratus seen daily along the coast at Ubatuba, Cunha Rd
Ochre-collared Piculet  Picumnus temminckii single birds twice at Igauzu NP
Yellow-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes flavifrons fairly common at all places; very handsome
White-spotted Woodpecker Venilornis spilogaster two at Iguazu; one at Itatiaia
Yellow-browed Woodpecker Piculus aurulentus one at Itatiaia, Hotel Simon behind pool
Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros two at Iguazu, both sides; one at Itatiaia
Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris on the grounds of Hotel Internacional - both subspecies
Blond-crested Woodpecker Celeus flavescens fabulous bird; El Timbo trail, beyond station
Robust Woodpecker Campephilus robustus El Timbo trail, Iguazu NP
Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis regular at Iguazu; one at Itatiaia
Saffron Toucanet Baillonius bailloni a pair at breakfast at Hotel do Ype, Itatiaia
Spot-billed Toucanet Selenidera maculirostris one female on Macuco Trail, Iguazu
Red-breasted Toucan Ramphastos dichlorus regular everywhere
Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco grounds of Hotel Internacional, elsewhere Iguazu
White-necked (Buff-bellied) Puffbird Notharchus macrorhyncus swainsoni Macuco trail
Crescent-chested Puffbird Malacoptila striata single bird at Fazenda Angelim, river trail
White-tailed Trogon Trogon viridis Cunha Road
Black-throated Trogon Trogon rufus Iguazu
Surucua Trogon Trogon surrucua 
"Red-bellied" Trogon Trogon surrucua surrucura  Iguacu Falls, regularly seen and heard
"Yellow/Orange-bellied" Trogon  Trogon surrucua aurantius Itatiaia NP; several heard; saw single bird
Rufous-capped Motmot Baryphthengus ruficappilus Iguacu, hard to see, easy to hear
Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Greater Ani Crotophaga major Iguazu NP - regular
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira grounds of Hotel Internacional
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucopthalmus Iguazu NP
Maroon-bellied Parrakeet Pyrrhura frontalis regularly seen throughout trip
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius surprisingly tame, near tourist shops Iguazu
Plain Parakeet Brotogeris tirica Ubatuba
Pileated Parrot Pionopsitta pileata Iguazu NP
Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani few at Iguazu; several at Itatiaia, Tres Picos trail
Sooty Swift Cypseloides fumigatus Itatiaia
Great Dusky Swift Cypseloides senex if you miss these at Iguazu you aren't birding or looking at the falls
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris common daily at Itatiaia NP
Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura c. cinereiventris  Cunha Rd
Ashy-tailed Swift Chaetura andrei 2 at Iguazu; a few daily at Itatiaia
Scale-throated Hermit Phaethornis eurynome single birds at Iguazu; Itatiaia
Planalto Hermit Phaethornis pretrei single bird at Cunha Rd
Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber Ubatuba
Saw-billed Hermit Ramphodon naevius 2 each day at Ubatuba, way back on forest trails
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Eupetomena macroura Ubatuba, Parati
Black Jacobin Melanotrochilus fuscus common daily at Ubatuba, Itatiaia; hard to miss
White-vented Violetear Colibri serrirostris Alguhas Negras ranger station, Itatiaia NP
Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax prevostii Cunha Rd
Frilled Coquette Lophornis magnificus daily around 5 pm, Hotel Simon garden
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris few singles at Iguazu
Violet-capped Woodnymph Thalurania glaucopis regular at Itatiaia
White-throated Hummingbird Leucochloris albicollis singles daily at Itatiaia
Versicolored Emerald Amazilia versicolor Iguazu, Itatiaia - one bird each place
Brazilian Ruby Clytolaema rubricauda Itatiaia; regular at Haroldo Simon's feeders
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum Iguazu
Grey Potoo  Nyctibius griseus El Timbo corner
Chestnut-banded Nighthawk Lurocalis semitorquatus nattereri El Timbo trail
Rock Dove Columba livia
Picazuro Pigeon Columba picazuro common at Iguazu; a few at Itatiaia
Pale-vented Pigeon Columba cayannensis
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Brazilian (White-tipped) Dove Leptotila verreauxi brasiliensis heard at Iguazu
Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla
Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana on the trail to Hotel Simon
Rufous-sided Crake (H) Laterallus melanophaius  heard regularly from the hide at Iguazu
Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail Aramides saracura 2 birds on the P. Canoas Rd, Iguazu; 2 H. do Ype
Ash-throated Crake Porzana albicollis seen near the hide at Iguazu
Blackish Rail (H) Pardirallus nigricans heard near the hide at Iguazu
Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinicus 
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis grounds of H. Internacional, Iguazu
Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus Iguazu
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis seen daily at Iguazu
Rufous-thighed Kite Harpagus diodon Ubatuba, Itatiaia
Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea common at Iguazu
Rufous-thighed Hawk Accipiter erythronemius Itatiaia
Mantled Hawk Leucopternis polionota a single bird high on the Parati - Cunha Rd
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris single birds seen most places
Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus a single bird high on the Parati - Cunha Rd
Crested Caracara Polyborus plancus Alguhas Negras Rd, upper part
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima single birds at Iguazu, Ubatuba, Itatiaia
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Anhinga Anhinga anhinga
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Great Egret Casmerodius albus
Striated Heron Butorides striatus
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens
Gray-hooded Flycatcher Mionectes rufiventris one at the entrance to Fazenda Angelim
Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus two at Iguazu
Drab-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant Hemitriccus diops one on the jeep trail at Itatiaia
Hangnest Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus nidipendulus one at Ubatuba
Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum plumbeiceps one on the lower El Timbo trail
Yellow-lored Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum poliocephalum regular at Ubatuba
Southern Antpipit Corythopis delalandi at the first corner of the Macuco trail, Iguazu
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum 3 seen on the lower El Timbo trail
Yellow Tyrannulet Capsiempis flaveola one on trail past park residences, Iguazu
Gray Elaenia Myiopagis caniceps easy to miss, high in trees at Iguazu
Greenish Elaenia Myiopagis viridicata one at Iguacu
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster a few at Iguazu
Highland Elaenia Elaenia obscura two on the Alguhas Negras Rd
White-crested Tyrannulet Serpophaga subcristata Itatiaia
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant Euscarthmus meloryphus at the pond near the entrance, Iguazu
Southern Bristle-Tyrant Phylloscartes eximius Cunha Rd
Eared Pygmy-Tyrant Myiornis auricularis two on lower El Timbo trail, Iguazu
Yellow-Olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulpherescens
White-throated Spadebill Platyrinchus mystaceus Ubatuba, Itatiaia
Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus Iguazu, Itatiaia
Sulfur-rumped Flycatcher Myiobius barbatus Ubatuba
Swallow Flycatcher Hirundinea bellicosa Ubatuba, Itatiaia - at Hotel do Ype
Fuscous Flycatcher Cnemotriccus fuscatus 3 birds at Iguazu
Euler's Flycatcher Lathrotriccus euleri Iguazu, Cunha Rd, Itatiaia
White-rumped Monjita Xolmis velata along "marsh" road near Eng. Passos
Blue-billed Black-Tyrant Knipolegus cyanirostris Alguhas Negras Rd, many near pond
Velvety Black-Tyrant Knipolegus nigerrimus Alguhas Negras Rd, higher near rocks
Crested Black-Tyrant Knipolegus lophotes a pair at bridge just below park HQ, Itatiaia
Masked Water-Tyrant Fluvicola nengeta in town at Itaiaia
Streamer-tailed Tyrant Gubernetes yetapa along "marsh" road near Eng. Passos
Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus a few at both Iguazu, Itatiaia
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus regularly seen at Iguazu, also seen at Itatiaia
Sirystes Sirystes sibilator finally got this devil! twice at Iguazu; three at Itatiaia
Swainson's Flycatcher Myiarchus s. swainsoni Iguazu
Short-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus ferox Itaiaia
Large-headed Flatbill Ramphotrigon megacephala two at Iguacu
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Eastern Kingbird Tyrannus tyrannus one at marsh in Iguazu NP
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana over 50 birds seen migrating through Iguazu, Ubatuba
Variegated Flycatcher Empidonomus varius Iguazu
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Three-striped Flycatcher Conopias trivirgata tv tower trail at Iguazu
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius Ubatuba
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulfuratus
Greenish Schiffornis Schiffornis virescens Iguazu; Itatiaia on jeep trail, other places
Green-backed Becard Pachyramphus viridis Iguazu, El Timbo trail; Ubatuba, F. Capricornio
Chestnut-crowned Becard Pachyramphus castaneus Itatiaia, near H. do Ype
Black-capped Becard Pachyramphus marginatus Ubatuba, F. Capricornio
Crested Becard Pachyramphus validus fairly common at Ubatuba; also seen Itatiaia
Black-tailed Tityra Tityra cayana Ubatuba, Itatiaia
Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor regular everywhere
Swallow-tailed Cotinga Phibalura flavirostris three of these elegant birds

well seen on the Alguhas Negras Rd, lower down
Black-and-gold Cotinga Tijuca atra heard only on lower Alguhas Negras Rd
Buff-throated Purpletuft Iodopleura pipra at top of bare tree, Ubatuba, F. Angelim
Red-ruffed Fruitcrow Pyroderus scutatus a single bird at dusk, way out on El Timbo trail
Swallow-tailed (Blue) Manakin Chiroxiphia caudata commonly heard, sometimes seen on Macuco trail shortly after beginning, Iguazu; also on road just above H. do Ype, and near beginning of Tres Picos trail, Itatiaia
Spot-backed Antshrike Hypoedaleus guttatus F. Angelim, trail to river, stayed in canopy
Tufted Antshrike Mackenziaena severa real skulker glimpsed at Iguazu; H. Simon trail 
Chestnut-backed Antshrike Thamnophilus p. palliatus km 109, near Angra Dos Reis
Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caeruslescens gilvigaster well named; Iguazu, Itatiaia
Spot-breasted Antvireo Dysithamnus stictothorax F. Angelim river trail, Ubatuba
Plain Antvireo  Dysithamnus mentalis
Star-throated Antwren Myrmotherula gularis waterfall trail at Itatiaia, below road near do Ype
Rufous-winged Antwren Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus one on lower El Timbo trail, Iguazu
Ferruginous Antbird Drymophila ferruginea nine seen at Ubatuba
Bertoni's Antbird Drymophila rubricollis one seen on Tres Picos trail, Itatiaia
Scaled Antbird Drymophila squamata one on river trail, F. Angelim
Streak-capped Antwren Terenura maculata one at Iguazu; a few at Ubatuba
White-shouldered Fire-eye Pyriglena leucoptera one at Iguacu; also Tres Picos trail, Itatiaia
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus easy to find, parking lot at Iguazu; marsh road, E. Passos
Rufous-capped Spinetail Synallaxis ruficapilla jeep trail Itaiaia
Chicli Spinetail Synallaxis spixi small bird, seen on the marsh road near Eng. Passos 
Firewood-Gatherer Anumbius annumbi  seen on the marsh road near Eng. Passos
Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper Lochmias nematura waterfall trail at Itatiaia
Pale-browed Treehunter Cichlocolaptes leucophrus Ubatuba, F. Capricornio
Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner Syndactyla rufosuperciliata Alguhas Negras Road
White-browed Foliage-gleaner Philydor amaurotis at base of Tres Picos trail
Ochre-breasted Foliage-gleaner Philydor lichtensteini regular at Iguazu
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Philydor rufus regular at Itatiaia
White-collared Foliage-gleaner Anabazenops fuscus jeep trail, tres Picos trail, Itaiaia
White-eyed Foliage-gleaner Automulus leucopthalmus single bird at Iguacu NP
Sharp-billed Treehunter Heliobletus contaminatus jeep trail, Itatiaia
Plain Xenops Xenops minutus Iguacu
Thrush-like (Plain) Woodcreeper Dendrocincla turdina Iguacu, Iguazu
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus common at Iguazu, also seen Itatiaia
White-throated Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes albicollis singles at Iguazu, Itatiaia
Planalto Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes platyrostris two at Iguazu, two at Itatiaia
Scaled Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes squamatus three seen at Itatiaia, first at H. do Ype
Lesser Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes fuscus near start of Tres Picos trail, Itatiaia
Black-billed Scythebill Campyloramphus falcularius one along trail to H. Simon, Itatiaia
Short-tailed Antthrush Chamaeza campanisona very responsive, well seen on Tres Picos trail
Rufous-tailed Antthrush Chamaeza ruficauda one seen from road near H. do Ype, many heard
Variegated Antpitta Grallaria varia got good looks after 45 minutes of effort, very responsive on jeep trail at Itatiaia - don't give up, its really worth the wait!
Rufous Gnateater Conopophaga lineata one on tv tower trail, Iguazu
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis heard, seen often Cunha Rd; Itatiaia
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus chivi brown eyed version, common to abundant throughout
Rufous-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus poicilotis a few seen at Itatiaia
Plush-crested Jay Cyanocorax chrysops love this bird, easily seen at Iguazu
Yellow-legged Thrush Platycichla flavipes fairly easy to see at Ubatuba
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris common at Itatiaia; also seen at Iguazu, Ubatuba
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas common at Iguazu, also seen at Itatiaia
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus one seen at Iguazu
White-necked Thrush Turdus albicollis albicollis single birds at Iguazu, Itatiaia
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus grounds of H. Internacional; also at Eng. Passos
Southern House Wren  Troglodytes aedon musculus
Creamy-bellied Gnatcatcher Polioptila lactea two along outer El Timbo trail
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea 
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Hooded Siskin Carduelis megellenica single bird at Itatiaia
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis a. aequinoctialis
Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorous auricapillus  common everywhere
Neotropical River Warbler Basileuterus rivularis single birds at Iguacu; Ubatuba
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Chestnut-vented Conebill Conirostrum speciosum fairly common at Iguazu
Brown Tanager Orchesticus abeillei Ubatuba
Magpie Tanager Cissopis leveriana a few at Iguazu; very common at Itatiaia
Orange-headed Tanager Thlypopsis sordida two at H. Simon's feeder, Itatiaia
Guira Tanager Hemithraupis guira seen daily at Iguazu
Rufous-headed Tanager Hemithraupis ruficapilla one at F. Capricornio, a beauty
Olive-green Tanager Orthogonys chloricterus group of birds seen on jeep trail, Itatiaia
Flame-crested Tanager Tachyphonus cristatus F. Angelim, Ubatuba
Ruby-crowned Tanager Tachyphonus coronatus a few birds encountered throughout trip
Black-goggled Tanager Trichothraupis melanops seen daily in small numbers at Iguazu
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica Macuco trail, Iguazu
Brazilian Tanager Ramphocelus bresilius Wow! Ubatuba, daily
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca seen regularly and easily throughout trip
Azure-shouldered Tanager Thraupis cyanoptera single bird, near our high spot on Cunha Rd
Golden-chevroned Tanager Thraupis ornata few at Ubatuba; common at Itatiaia
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Diademed Tanager Stephanophorus diadematus at least ten birds on upper Alguhas Negras Rd
Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota Itatiaia
Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica twice seen at Iguazu; once at Ubatuba
Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea several at Iguazu
Chestnut-bellied Euphonia Euphonia pectoralis a few at Iguazu; Ubatuba; Itatiaia
Blue-naped Chlorophonia Chlorophonia cyanea three total at Iguazu
Green-headed Tanager Tangara celedon snappy start at hotel, easily seen Iguazu; Ubatuba
Red-necked Tanager Tangara cyanocephala WOW!!! a stunner, common at Ubatuba
Brassy-breasted Tanager Tangara desmaresti another beauty, easily seen on Alguhas Negras Rd
Burnished-buff Tanager Tangara cayana flava dark bellied race, "marsh" near Eng. Passos
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana common at Iguazu, Ubatuba
Swallow Tanager Tersina viridis commmon at hotel, Iguazu; also seen Itatiaia
Red-crested Finch Coryphospingus cucullatus on road near Macuco trail entrance, Iguazu
Bay-chested Warbling-Finch Poospiza thoracica four seen on lower Alguhas Negras Road
Red-rumped Warbling-Finch Poospiza l. lateralis nine seen on lower Alguhas Negras Road
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola finally, countable birds! daily at Iguazu
Great Pampa-Finch Embernagra p. platensis a very tame bird at rocks on upper Alguhas Negras Rd; this bird looked very little like the Ridgely plate, with bright olive back, bright orange lower mandible
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens regularly seen throughout
Lesser Seed-Finch Oryzoborus angolensis singing bird at entrance to Iguazu NP
Sooty Grassquit Tiaris fuliginosa near entrance to F. Angelim, Ubatuba
Green-winged Saltator Saltator similis Itatiaia; regularly heard, saw two on H. Simon trail
Thick-billed Saltator Saltator maxillosus two on Alguhas Negras Rd
Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous common to abundant throughout
Epaulet Oriole Icterus cayanensis one near marsh at Iguazu
Chopi Blackbird Gnorimopsar chopi Iguazu, Ubatuba
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus aeneus
Giant Cowbird Scaphidura oryzivora several at Iguazu
House Sparrow (I) Passer domesticus

Chris Carpenter
Oakland, CA USA

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