24 January - 14 February 1998
by Jan van der Laan
Introduction
Between January 24th and February 14th 1998 I visited Chile together with my girlfriend Marieke Wiringa (irrespectably called a non-Birding Spouse in birders terms). The main goal was to have a good and pleasant vacation, with some occasional birding. The itinerary was cunningly planned and while visiting nice places, I made it possible to see all 10 Chilean endemics plus the most wanted charadrid in South America, the Diademed Sandpiper-Plover. Chile is a very pleasant country (“a well kept secret” somebody told us), although a little bit expensive, but nowhere else we met more pleasant, easy-going and well-behaving people during this three week visit.
Itinerary
24th January
We took the KLM flight 791 from Amsterdam to Santiago at 23:30 hours (actually on January 23rd). We made stops at São Paulo, Brazil and Buenos Aires, Argentina. In the plane we celebrated Marieke’s 34th anniversary with champagne, kindly provided by the crew. Flight was pleasant without any problems and just before Santiago we had wonderful views of the High Andes with the highest mountain in the Americas, the Aconcagua (nearly 7000 meters). Arrived at Santiago International Airport at 14:00 hours local time. No problems with the customs, took a taxi ($ 20!) and went straight to the centre to Hotel Riviera ($54 double) near Cerro Santa Lucia. Had dinner in a very nice restaurant where Marieke’s birthday was celebrated again and finally we went to sleep in our very noisy room.
25th January
In the morning we phoned some car rental companies and Just-Rent-a-Car proved to be good bargain. For $ 580 (all included) for two weeks we had an excellent Toyota Tercel. All quiet in Santiago. We drove north to Portillo to see the Andes. Traffic nice and quiet, no problems at all. The Andes proved to be very nice, although road works made it impossible to stop along the road. At Portillo I took a short look at the Creamy-rumped Miner-site, but I ‘only’ managed to find two Black-fronted Ground-Tyrants. One Andean Condor sailing overhead and at the Ski hotel White-sided Hillstar, Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch and lots of Rufous-collared Sparrows. In the hair-pins two Greater Yellow-finches plus Band-tailed Sierra-Finches, Dark-bellied Cinclodes and Mourning Sierra-Finch. Next we drove west to the coast. In the evening we arrived at Papudo, where we had planned to go to a trendy hotel there, recommended in a glossy magazine. Crowded village with a circus with crying lions and elephants. No hotel to find. Drove south to Zapallar, hotel there very expensive. Short sea-watch produced Peruvian Pelican, Peruvian Booby and 3 probable Thin-billed Prions. Lot of luxurious houses here. We drove south to look for a hotel. Finally we found one at Quintero (extremely crowed village and - of course - there was a circus!), Hotel Gran MacKenzie, run by a ex-fisherman from Dutch Harbor (Alaska) called Elisio. Extremely good dinner. Room rather expensive (20.000 Ch$), but Elisio was very hospitable.
26th January
Good breakfast made by Elisio. After some social talk, we went to Viña del Mar. Another beach resort, but with more ‘grandeur’. Short stop at Valparaiso, because of a large bird flock in the harbour. Next stop was El Tabo, but again this was a crowded beach resort and we began to realise all Chileans were on holiday. Short stop at Laguna El Peral in Las Cruces yielded Black-necked Swan, Lake Duck, Silvery Grebe, Great Grebe, Yellow-winged Blackbird, Many-colored Rush-Tyrant, Red-gartered Coot and Red-fronted Coot. We decided to drive east to Pirque to visit the Concha y Toro Vineyards next day. After some driving in the Cajon del Maipo, we found a nice hotel (El Toucan) in Obre, just south-east of Santiago. Talking Spanish was still a problem, but we managed to order a good meal with excellent wine.
27th January
After a good breakfast we visited the Concha y Toro Winery at Pirque, which was very nice. The excursion was led by a student from England and our group was only with three Americans (one was just back from Torres del Paine, where he had seen Magellanic Woodpecker and Rufous-breasted Seed-snipe). We tasted some wine and bought some bottles. In the afternoon we visited Parque Nacional Rio Clarillo (2000 Ch$ per person entrance!). Here we were lucky to find one Chilean Tinamou, which we saw twice in dense scrub between the road and the river, just 1 km from the main entrance. Other birds were Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Picui Ground Dove, Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch, Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Southern House Wren, Chilean Flicker and probable Dusky Tapaculo (singing). Dinner and sleep in Hotel El Toucan in Obre.
28th January
After breakfast and checking out of the hotel (for two nights plus dinner and breakfast 70.000 CH$, a full-metal rip-off!) we tried to drive to Embalse de Yeso, but after 4 km we decided to quit. The road was too rough for the rental car, so we decided to do it later with another vehicle, time permitted. I spent an hour birding at the crags as mentioned in Pearman (1995, p 18) for Crag Chilia and I managed to see one shortly. No Moustached Turca, but Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Chilean Mockingbird and a probable out-of-range Golden-spotted Dove. A little bit disappointed we left to go south. After a straight drive south we reached the town of Talca, where we checked-in at Hotel Amalfi (48 $). We did some sight-seeing, had a good dinner and went to sleep in a bed far too small for me.
29th January
After the usual rituals in the morning we left Talca to drive south to Lago Villarica. After visiting Pucon at this beautiful lake and volcano, we decided to go back and take Hosteria Rayhuen in Villarica, because Pucon was crowed with youngsters dressed in the heights of Grunge Fashion. It is me who is getting old-fashioned... No special birds, except several Black-faced Ibises and Brown-hooded Gulls. We had dinner in our hotel and went to sleep (14000 Ch$) early.
30th January
Today we drove to Termas de Palguin to check the hot baths there, but the Hotel Termas de Palguin was not there anymore, it was burnt to the ground only very recently. Did some walking in the beautiful Nothofagus forest, where I heard the first Chucao Tapaculo (at first I thought it was a calling Magellanic Woodpecker, because at a distance the song is reminiscent of Green Woodpecker in Europe!) plus close observations of White-throated Treerunner and Thorn-tailed Rayaditos. Surroundings very beautiful, especially with the smoking Volcan Villarica. Just before dinner 4 Austral Parakeets flew over in Villarica. Excellent dinner at El Rey del Marisco and after some sight-seeing in the village we went to sleep.
31st January
After breakfast we did a short walk and found out it was possible to use our bank cards here to get money automatically. Two Austral Parakeets flew over again and when leaving Villarica a Night Heron flew over the car. After a moderate drive we arrived at Lago Puyehue. This lake was even more beautiful and the forests were more moist and untouched. We tried to find a sleeping place near Aguas Calientes, but it was full of autobuses and the accommodation proved to be very expensive. Just near the entrance of Parque Nacional Puyehue we discovered two Slender-billed Parakeets close-by and some Rufous-tailed Plantcutters. We drove a little bit west to Nilque, where we hired a cabaña for 12000 Ch$, just at the borders of Lago Puyehue. In the evening we drove east to a weird restaurant, where we were to only guests and the personnel was glazing at us all evening. But there we saw our first true Green-backed Firecrowns and heard a possible Austral Pygmy Owl. During the night a colony of Black-faced Ibises kept us company.
1st February
We had a basic breakfast in front of the cabaña and after that we drove to Osorno, a nice, but modern town. Fetched some money automatically, took photographs at Frutillar and went south to head for Puerto Montt and eventually we took the ferry to Chiloe Island. During the crossing we saw Blue-eyed Cormorant, Sooty Shearwater and several Magellanic Penguins, but not the amount of seabirds as was promised in some travel reports and in Pearman. Is El Niño responsible? On Chiloe Island we went to Castro, took Hostel Casa Blanca (18.000 Ch$) and did some walking in the village and harbour, but we found this village not that pleasant as we expected to be (crowded, to much artesania and noisy). Good dinner with some good wine from the Concha y Toro Vineyard.
2nd February
After changing traveller checks (money goes faster here than you could imagine), we drove north to Ancud. This is a nice village with a nice harbour. Took the German hotel Drechsler, which was nice for about 14.000 Ch$. We drove west to look for Des Murs’ Wiretail and Ochre-flanked Tapaculo, but could not find any. Best birds seen this day were Ringed Kingfisher, Patagonian Sierra-Finch, Dark-bellied Cinclodes, Rufous-tailed Plantcutter, Chucao Tapaculo, Green-backed Firecrown and Slender-billed Parakeet. No ducks or special shorebirds. Are they gone in the high summer season? In the evening we had an excellent dinner, met three Dutch, who travelled in the Atacama desert. Finally we went to sleep, a little bit overwhelmed by the beer and wine.
3rd February
In the morning I did some seawatching at Ancud which produced Rock Cormorant, Red-legged Cormorant, Arctic Skua, Magellanic Penguin, Dark-bellied Cinclodes and some terns too far away to identify. Took several photographs of the Brown-hooded Gull to support Ted Hoogendoorn’s opinion that the Brown-hooded Gull in the southern part of their distribution show less black in the wings. After some walking in Ancud and phoning to the Netherlands we took the ferry to the mainland again. During the crossing we saw some other Magellanic Penguins, several Blue-eyed Cormorants, Rock Cormorant, and Magellanic Oystercatcher. We decided to go to Lago Todos los Santos, which was described as very good in the Lonely Planet. Arrived there in the afternoon, but lots of tourist buses, backpackers and noisy families. Went back to Puerto Varas were we booked a room at Hospedaja Las Rosas (14.000 Ch$) for two nights. Had dinner in a very good, cheap and very friendly Italian Restaurant.
4th February
Today we went pack to Lago Todos los Santos to do some walking in the Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales. A park warden told us how to walk and after 15 minutes all families and backpackers were nowhere. Big flies terrorised us all the way. A beautiful place though, with large Nothofagus trees. We walked for three hours and finally reached the lake again. A friendly Mapuche Indian offered a ride in a small rowing boat. This proved to be a good idea, because the lake shore was sometimes too steep and impenetrable and it started to rain. During the walk lots of Chucao Tapaculos were heard and finally we were lucky to see one. Other interesting birds were Peregrine Falcon, Ochre-flanked Tapaculo (several heard), Austral Negrito, Patagonian Sierra-Finch and lots of White-crested Elaenias. When driving back to Puerto Varas we found a pair of Torrent Ducks in the stream near the waterfall. Rest of the day was spent in Puerto Varas, where we had dinner in the same restaurant.
5th February
We left Puerto Varas in the morning and drove north. After a long drive, we decided to go to Parque Nacional Laguna de La Laja. At Antuco we had gasoline from a primitive gas-station, where gas was poured into the tank with a hose and a garden waterer. East of Antuco the asphalt road stopped and turned into a bumpy dirt road. We finally reached El Abanico, but the only hotel (Hotel Malalcura) there looked closed. A mini-bus arrived suddenly with the owner. In the end we had a basic dinner and went to sleep in the only twin-bed of the hotel (15.000 Ch$). During the night we were bitten by flees and disturbed by the all-night cooking of the personnel...
6th February
The bill was total rip-off, since they charged us voor c 20.000 Ch$ for the extremely basic meal. We started to search along the trail, known as track A in Pearman (1995) for one of the rarest Chilean endemics, the Chestnut-throated Huethuet. The track was half-a-mile short (at the end it starts to go steeply uphill) and after the second attempt (I walked it from beginning to end) I sat on a trunk watching a pair of White-throated Tree-runners. In my eye-corner I saw a large brown bird flying from a branch disappearing behind a tree. I waited patiently and after a long wait (10 seconds…), it appeared again: a Chestnut-throated Huethuet! A big wren-like bird with no clear colours due to the relative darkness of this trail, but the white eye-ring was very conspicuous (see also the front-page of Cotinga of August 1996). Next we went to the Parque Nacional Laguna de La Laja. A nice park, flooded with lava. We drove to the Laguna itself and the best bird was a Great Shrike-Tyrant. After an hour or so we drove back to the reservoir at the main entrance, but no Andean Gull or Spectacled Duck, as promised in several travel reports and in Pearman (1995). Finally we drove to Chillán, where we booked a room in Gran Hotel Isabel Riquilme ($ 83) and later in the evening we had a very good dinner in the Spanish restaurant Centro Español.
7th February
The whole morning we were playing the occasional tourist in the market of Chillán, bought some things and had lunch. In the afternoon we drove north as far as possible. South of Santiago we tried to stay in La Lionera, but this looked very weird and was fortunately too expensive for us so we declined politely. Further north we found a good motel for the price of 10.000 Ch$ at Paine.
8th February
At Paine we made a phone-call to the Netherlands and after breakfast we decided to visit the Undurraga Winery near Talagante, but since it was Sunday, it was closed. What to do? We decided to drive to the sea, because we hadn’t seen a lot of it. So we drove to Viña del Mar and spent some time at the Lago Peñuales where I had finally some fresh-water birds like Chilean Wigeon, Speckled Duck, White-winged Coot and Correndera Pipit. At Viña del Mar we visited the rocky coast just north of Viña. Between a group of Ruddy Turnstones I found a Surfbird and three Chilean Seaside-Cinclodes, another endemic. Just near that side was a luxurious hotel, so we thought what-the-heck…, so in half-an-hour we had a beautiful room in Hotel Oceanic ($140) with a view on the Humboldt Current, with cold beer within easy reach. Excellent dinner plus a nice conversation with a British business man (in onions!) ended a nice day
9th February
In the morning I did some seawatching which produced the usual seabirds plus 5 Humboldt Penguins. Reluctantly we left this place and after a short stop at Concon we drove via Olmué to the Parque Nacional La Campana. This was rather hot with a few holiday-makers. I tried one slope and there the Moustached Turca called me. I found him very quickly and he led me to a party of about 4 Dusky-tailed Canasteros. A group of Californian Quails took over and a minute later I was watching what I at first thought to be a Dusky-tailed Canastero. But why did it had a rufous tail? And why were its undertail-coverts barred? Because it was a White-throated Tapaculo! I felt stupid, but very happy afterwards. I did a final attempt for Dusky Tapaculo, but no luck. Then I joined Marieke, who felt asleep on a huge rock in the middle of a stream. We tried to find a hotel in Granizo but no vacancy. We looked further south but between La Calera and Santiago, but there was no accommodation (only a huge area of Matorral land!), so finally we drove to Santiago, where we took Hotel Monte Carlo for $ 54.
10th February
We phoned Just-Rent-a-Car to change our car for a pick-up truck, a Chevrolet Luv ($ 66 a day). A big car, but a good choice for dirt roads. We left Santiago and went straight to San Alfonso, where we took hotel Dos Cierves (18.000 Ch$), but with a swimming pool and a nice view and close to the Embalse de Yeso. In the evening we tested the car by driving to the Crag Chilia-site, 3.5 from the start of the road the Embalse de Yeso. Two Crag Chilias were singing and they were so nervously feeding along the crags that I could not put them in the telescope. Other birds were two Great Shrike-Tyrants at the crags and an Aplomado Falcon hunting behind the hotel. In the evening we had a good meal with excellent wine, but then we witnessed the killing of a dog in front of the hotel. A little bit shocked we went to sleep. The bed was extremely squeaky, so we had a bad night.
11th February
At 10:30 we left our hotel to drive to Embalse de Yeso. The road was very dusty and full of traffic of lorries going up and back with carloads of stones. After a one-hour drive we reached the Embalse de Yeso. The bog area as mentioned in Pearman (1995) is clearly visible, but a little bit tricky to reach. When crossing a stream to get there the warning lights on the dashboard blinked ‘check the engine’. Fortunately nothing was wrong with the engine. The bog area itself is also cut by a deep running stream and it took me half-an-hour to find a place to cross, but at that crossing I discovered the Diademed Sandpiper-Plover. Quickly I called Marieke to show her the bird and the next half hour I was photographing this very beautiful bird. The bird was not shy at all, so I could take very good pictures with my 200 mm zoom. I could approach the bird as closely as 7 feet! When the bird was probing into the mud it closed its eyes, showing white eye-lids. I did not see the bird flying, because it was so confiding and quiet. Other interesting birds in this breath-taking area were Magellanic Snipe (discovered by Marieke), Dusky (or Magellanic?) Tapaculo, Cinereous and White-browed Ground-Tyrant, Bar-winged Cinclodes, Greater Yellow-Finch, Yellow-rumped Siskin, but no seed-snipes. Very satisfied we left and when leaving we took a hitch-hiker in the car, but unfortunately we could not have a conversation with him, because we did not speak Spanish and he did not speak English. Back in San Alfonso we had a good dinner in our hotel and went to sleep just before midnight.
12th February
We left our hotel just before noon and drove back to Santiago. In San Jose de Maipo we took three hitch-hikers in the back of our pick-up. In Santiago we took Hotel Monte Carlo again, phoned Just-Rent-a-Car to return the car, although we had to pay 5000 Ch$ for a missing light. The rest of the day we spent in the centre of Santiago, having a good lunch at Don Vitorino and later in the evening an excellent dinner at Caprich Español, both in the Santa Lucia area.
13th February
Today we spent to whole day sight-seeing in Santiago. In the evening we had dinner in the same restaurant as the first evening in Chile.
14th February
At noon we left Santiago with a taxi for the International Airport. The plane left at 16.00 hours. In the plane we met an Irish guy called David who gave us pills to doze off and sleeping pills to sleep and earplugs to keep the noise away. So after taking them, I woke up above northern France the next day! We arrived at Amsterdam at 11:50 hours, where my father took us from the airport.
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Suggested Reading
In Chile only a few identification guides where are available and one very good finding guide. I used the following:
Acknowledgements
I would like to thank the following persons: Roy de Haas, Ruud Schenk, Yb Huisman (DBTRS), Jelle Scharringa, Montserrat from the Travel Agency ANWB, The Irish guy called David, Maryan Bakker and Jur van der Laan
The Species Accounts
The order and nomenclature of ‘A World Checklist of Birds’ by Sibley and Munroe (1993) is followed, but when the names were too different from the commonly used names, I preferred to use the names in the Birds of South America.
Nothoprocta perdicaria. Chilean Tinamou
27 January 1 Parque Nacional Rio Clarillo, south of Pirque, Región
Metropolitana. It was discovered by its high-pitched call. It was twice
seen running into the vegetation, but no good views were obtained.
Callipepla californica. Californian Quail
6 February 4 at Hotel Malalcura, El Abanico, VII Región
9 February 5 at site A in Pearman (1995), Parque Nacional La
Campana, V Región
Oxyura vittata. Lake Duck
26 January c 20 at Laguna El Peral, Las Cruces, V Región
8 February c 10 (probably this species, all males, sleeping)
at the Lago Peñuelas, V Región
Cygnus melanocorypha. Black-necked Swan
26 January c 20 (some pairs with young) at Laguna El Peral, Las Cruces,
V Región
Merganetta (armata) armata. Chilean Torrent Duck
4 February 2 (a pair) just west of Petrohue, Lago Todos los Santos,
X Región
Mareca sibilatrix. Chiloe Wigeon
8 February c 30 (with young) at the Lago Peñuelas, V Región
Anas (flavirostris) flavirostris. Yellow-billed (Speckled) Teal
8 February 3 Lago Peñuelas, V Región
Anas (georgica) spinicauda. Yellow-billed Pintail
30 January 5 Lago Villarica at Villarica, IX Región; also
on 31 January
2 February 3 west of Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
3 February 3 in a pond with artificial ducks between Puerto Varas and
El Mirador along Lake Llanquihue, X Región; also on 4 February
8 February c 10 at the Lago Peñuelas, V Región
Colaptes pitius. Chilean Flicker
27 January 2 Parque Nacional Rio Clarillo, south of Pirque, Región
Metropolitana
5 February 1 between Antuco and El Abanico, VII Región
Colaptes (campestris) campestroides. Field Flicker
24 January 2-4 Buenos Aires International Airport, Argentina
Megaceryle torquata. Ringed Kingfisher
2 February 2 west of Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
5 February 1 just north of Puerto Vares, X Región
Enicognathus ferrugineus. Austral Parakeet
30 January 4 above Villarica, IX Región
31 January 2 above Villarica, IX Región
Enicognathus leptorhynchus. Slender-billed Parakeet
31 January 2 between Termas de Puyehue and Aguas de Calientes, Parque
Nacional Puyehue, X Región
c 10 (very probably this species) between Nilque and Termas de
Puyehue, X Región
2 February 2 west of Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
Oreotrochilus leucopleurus. White-sided Hillstar
25 January 1 (female or immature) in front of the restaurant at Portillo,
V Región
Patagona gigas. Giant Hummingbird
25 January 1 Zapallar, V Región
Sephanoides sephanoides. Green-backed Firecrown
31 January 5 Nilque, X Región
2 February 1 west of Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
9 February 1 Parque Nacional La Campana, V Región
Hummingbirdspecies were seen throughout the country and were most probably
this species.
Columba livia forma domestica. Domestic Pigeon
Abundant.
Columba araucana. Chilean Pigeon
Fairly common (c 20 daily, all fly-bys) in IX Región and X Región
Zenaida auriculata. Eared Dove
First seen in Santiago (Cerro Santa Lucia). After that regularly observed
throughout the country.
Columbina picui. Picui Ground-Dove
Seen with certainty in Parque Nacional Rio Clarillo. After ticking
this species - although a very beautiful bird - I did not pay much attention
to these small doves. Sorry!
Metriopelia melanoptera. Black-winged Ground-Dove
First seen in the Lower Yeso Valley, Región Metropolitana. After
that regularly observed (I paid not much attention to these small doves)
throughout the country.
Fulica leucoptera. White-winged Coot
8 February c 50 at Lago Peñuelas, V Región
Fulica armillata. Red-gartered Coot
26 January c 20 (some pairs with young) at Laguna El Peral, Las Cruces,
V Región
8 February c 10 at Lago Peñuelas, V Región
Fulica rufifrons. Red-fronted Coot
26 January c 10 (some pairs with young; photographed) at Laguna El
Peral, Las Cruces, V Región
Gallinago (paraguaia) magellanica. Magellanic Snipe
11 February 1 flushed at the Diademed Sandpiper-Plover-spot (map 1)
Numenius (phaeopus) hudsonicus. Hudsonian Curlew
31 January 1 above Lago Puyehue, Nilque, X Región
1 February c 300 during strong evening-migration, Castro, Chiloe Island,
X Región
3 February c 10 during crossing between Chacao and Pargua, X Región
8 February 1 Viña del Mar, V Región
Arenaria interpres. Ruddy Turnstone
8 February c 10 Viña del Mar, V Región
Aphriza virgata. Surfbird
8 February 21 Viña del Mar, V Región
9 February 1 Viña del Mar, V Región
c 5 Concon, V Región
Haematopus leucopodus. Magellanic Oystercatcher
3 February 1 with certainty (wing pattern!) between c 5 oystercatchers
(foraging on the coast), seen from the ferry at Chacao, Chiloe Island,
X Región
Himantopus mexicanus. Black-necked Stilt
26 January 1 between San Antonio and Melipilla, V Región
8 February 1 at Lago Peñuelas, V Región
Phegornis mitchellii. Diademed Sandpiper-Plover
11 February 1 (adult) closely observed and beautifully photographed,
north of the Embalse de Yeso, Región Metropolitana (see map 1).
One of the most beautiful birds I ever saw.
Vanellus chilensis. Southern Lapwing
Abundant throughout the whole country and c 10 on the International
Airport of Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Stercorarius parasiticus. Arctic Skua (Parasitic Jaeger)
3 February 2 (chasing gulls) at Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
Larus modestus. Grey Gull
26 January 2 Quintero, V Región
3 between Viña del Mar and Valparaiso, X Región
3 February 2 at Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
8 February c 100 Viña del Mar, V Región
9 February c 50 Viña del Mar, V Región
c 10 Concon, V Región
Larus dominicanus. Kelp Gull
Common along the coast and the southern lakes (photographed).
Larus maculipennis. Brown-hooded Gull
Common on the southern lakes and coast of X Región (photographed).
Larus pipixcan. Franklin’s Gull
Common along the coast and the southern lakes and sometimes inland
(e.g. just north of Santiago).
Sterna elegans. Elegant Tern
Small numbers (c 10) at Quintero, Viña del Mar (photographed)
and Ancud, Chiloe Island.
Larosterna inca. Inca Tern
25 January c 10 Papudo, V Región
c 10 between Papudo and Zapallar, V Región
26 January c 10 (photographed) Quintero, V Región
c 100 Viña del Mar, V Región
8 February c 50 Viña del Mar, V Región
9 February c 100 Viña del Mar, V Región
Geranoaetus melanoleucos. Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle
27 January 1 Parque Nacional Rio Clarillo, south of Pirque, Región
Metropolitana
28 January 2 3.5 km from the start of the road to Embalse de Yeso,
Región Metropolitana
Buteo polyosoma. Red-backed Hawk
30 January 1 (immature) between Villarica and Termas de Palquin, IX
Región
6 February 1 (adult, photographed) between El Abanico and Antuco, VII
Región
Polyborus plancus. Crested Caracara
24 January 1 International Airport of Buenos Aires, Argentina
29 January 1 between Temuco and Villarica, IX Región
31 January 1 c 10 km west of Termas de Puyehue, X Región
Milvago chimango. Chimango Caracara
Common to very common (photographed), with a maximum of c 100 birds
together in one meadow, somewhere between Valparaiso and Olmué,
V Región.
Falco sparverius. American Kestrel
Fairly common throughout the whole country, with an average of 3-4
birds each day.
Falco femoralis. Aplomado Falcon
10 February 1 (hunting) behind the hotel ‘Dos Cierves’, San Alfonso,
Región Metropolitana.
Falco peregrinus. Peregrine Falcon
4 February 3 (1 ad, 2 imm) Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales at
Petrohue, X Región
Rollandia rolland chilensis. White-tufted (Chilean) Grebe
4 February 6 Lago Llanquihue at Puerto Vares, X Región
8 February 1 Lago Peñuelas, V Región
Podilymbus podiceps. Pied-billed Grebe
26 January c 10 (with young) at Laguna El Peral, Las Cruces, V Región
8 February 4 at the Lago Peñuelas, V Región
Podiceps major. Great Grebe
26 January 3 Laguna El Peral, Las Cruces, V Región
2 February 4 west of Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
8 February c 10 (with young) at the Lago Peñuelas, V Región
Podiceps occipitalis occipitalis. Silvery Grebe
26 January 2 Laguna El Peral, Las Cruces, V Región
Sula variegata. Peruvian Booby
25 January c 100 between Papudo and Zapallar, V Región
26 January c 10 Quintero, V Región
c 500 Valparaiso, V Región
8 February c 100 Viña del Mar, V Región
9 February c 50 Viña del Mar, V Región
Phalacrocorax brasiliensis. Neotropic Cormorant
The most widespread cormorant, seen at sea and in inland lakes or rivers.
Phalacrocorax bougainvillii. Guanay Cormorant
25 January c 100 between Papudo and Zapallar, V Región
26 January c 100 Quintero, V Región
c 5000 Valparaiso, V Región (photographed).
1 February c 25 during crossing from Pargua to Chacao (Chiloe Island),
X Región
2 February c 5 Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
3 February c 10 during crossing from Chacao (Chiloe Island) to Pargua,
X Región
8 February c 100 Viña del Mar, V Región
9 February c 50 Viña del Mar, V Región
Phalacrocorax atriceps. Imperial (Blue-eyed) Cormorant
1 February c 10 during crossing from Pargua to Chacao (Chiloe Island),
X Región
2 February c 10 Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
3 February c 10 during crossing from Chacao (Chiloe Island) to Pargua,
X Región
Phalacrocorax magellanicus. Rock Shag
3 February 2 Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
3 during crossing from Chacao (Chiloe Island) to Pargua, X Región
Phalacrocorax gaimardi. Red-legged Cormorant
3 February 1 Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
9 February 1 Viña del Mar, V Región
Egretta thula. Snowy Egret
At least 3 birds were noted: Los Angeles (VII Región), Villarica
(IX Región) and El Monte (V Región).
Casmerodius albus egretta. American Egret
At least 5 birds were noted: Santiago Airport (Región Metropolitana),
San Felipe (V Región), Lago Peñuelas (V Región), Los
Angeles (VII Región) and Los Caleras (V Región).
Bubulcus ibis. Cattle Egret
Common throughout when there were cows around.
Nycticorax nycticorax. Night Heron
31 January 1 Villarica, IX Región
Theristicus melanopis. Black-faced Ibis
Common from VIII Región to X Región (photographed).
Pelecanus thagus. Peruvian Pelican
Common at the sea. Especially common in fishing harbours (photographed).
Coragyps atratus. Black Vulture
Common, especially along the Pan American Highway, with a maximum of
c 15 birds a day.
Coragyps aura. Turkey Vulture
Fairly common, with up to 1-3 birds each day.
Vultur gryphus. Andean Condor
25 January 1 (male) soaring above a scree slope at Portillo, V Región.
Probably due to overcast weather at Portillo, this was the only bird there
and the only bird of the holiday!
Spheniscus humboldtii. Humboldt Penguin
9 February 5 (breastband seen!) at sea seen from Hotel Oceanic,
Viña del Mar, V Región
Spheniscus magellanicus. Magellanic Penguin
1 February c 10 (with 1 immature) during crossing from Pargua to Chacao
(Chiloe Island), X Región
3 February 2 Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
6 during crossing from Chacao, Chiloe Island to Pargua, X Región
Note: Only at the crossing I was able to see the double breastband
of two birds on 3 February. During the first crossing I identified at least
two birds by the broader white band on the neck and head sides. Others
were tentatively identified as Magellanics.
Puffinus griseus. Sooty Shearwater
1 February c 15 during crossing from Pargua to Chacao (Chiloe Island),
X Región
Pachyptila belcheri. Thin-billed Prion ??
25 January 3 small petrel-like birds feeding at sea between Papudo
and Zapallar, V Región.
Elaenia albiceps chilensis. White-crested (Chilean) Elaenia
Very common, noisy, hyperactive; in short: impossible to miss! Especially
abundant in Nothofagus forest, where this species was sometimes the only
bird present.
Anairetes parulus. Tufted Tit-Tyrant
27 January c 5 Parque Nacional Rio Clarillo, south of Pirque, Región
Metropolitana
3 February 2 Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales 10 km west Petrohue,
X Región
4 February c 10 Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales near Petrohue,
X Región
9 February c 10 Picnic area, Parque Nacional La Campana, V Región
Tachuris rubrigastra. Many-colored Rush-Tyrant
26 January 1 (with a nest hidden in the reeds) at Laguna El Peral,
Las Cruces, V Región
Xolmis pyrope. Fire-eyed Diucon
6 February 1 (photographed) in garden of Hotel Malalcura, El Abanico,
VII Región
c 5 Parque Nacional Laguna de la Laja, VII Región
8 February 1 Lago Peñuelas, V Región
9 February c 5 Picnic area, Parque Nacional La Campana, V Región
11 February c 5 road to Embalse de Yeso, Región Metropolitana
Agriornis livida. Great Shrike-Tyrant
6 February 1 (photographed) Parque Nacional Laguna de la Laja, VII
Región
10 February 2 (either this species or Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant A.
montana, but undertail-coverts cinnamon) Crag Chilia-spot, Región
Metropolitana
Muscisaxicola albilora. White-browed Ground-Tyrant
11 February c 10 road to Embalse de Yeso, Región Metropolitana
Note: during the trip to Embalse de Yeso, I observed several ground
tyrant-species, but due to heavy traffic, we were not able to stop at the
side of the road to give them full attention.
Muscisaxicola cinerea. Cinereous Ground-Tyrant
11 February c 10 above Embalse de Yeso, Región Metropolitana
Muscisaxicola frontalis. Black-fronted Ground-Tyrant
25 January 2 above Portillo at the Creamy-rumped Miner spot in Pearman
(1995)
Lessonia rufa. Patagonian (Austral) Negrito
4 February 4 (photographed) at the parking place of Lago Todos Los
Santos at Petrohue, X Región. At first, I did not know how to identify
these birds, because no male was around. After seeing the picture in Ridgely
and Tudor (1994) and my photos it proved that they were actually Austral
Negritos.
Phytotoma rara. Rufous-tailed Plantcutter
31 January 2 between Termas de Puyehue and Aguas de Calientes, Parque
Nacional Puyehue, X Región
2 February c 5 west of Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
Geobates rufipennis. Rufous-banded Miner
11 February c 8 Embalse de Yeso, Región Metropolitana
Cinclodes fuscus. Bar-winged Cinclodes
30 January 1 Termas de Palquin, IX Región
11 February c 15 (including adults with food carrying) Embalse de Yeso,
Región Metropolitana
Cinclodes patagonicus. Dark-bellied Cinclodes
25 january 1 below Portillo, V Región
27 january 1 El Toucan Motel, Obra, Región Metropolitana
1 February 1 Chacao, Chiloe Island, X Región,
2 February 2 west of Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
3 February 4 Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
4 February 4 Lago Todos Los Santos, Petrohue, X Región
6 February 1 Parque Nacional Laguna de la Laja, VII Región
11 February c 10 Embalse de Yeso, Región Metropolitana
Plus several fly-bys throughout the country along streams either this
or the previous species.
Cinclodes nigrofumosus. Chilean Seaside-Cinclodes
8 February 3 (1 adult, 2 juveniles begging, photographed) 1 km north
of Hotel Oceanic, Viña del Mar, V Región
1 c 100 meters south of Hotel Oceanic, Viña del Mar, V
Región
9 February 1 c 100 meters south of and before Hotel Oceanic, Viña
del Mar, V Región
Chilia melanura. Crag Chilia
28 January 1 (seen briefly) at km 3.5, road to Embalse de Yeso, Región
Metropolitana
10 February 2 singing and foraging on the crags at km 3.5, road to
Embalse de Yeso, Región Metropolitana.; they stopped singing at
20:45 hours. It was impossible to get them into the telescope, because
the birds were too active, the angle too steep (almost 80 degrees) and
the tripod I used was too short for me. Nevertheless, with my 8x42 binoculars
I still got good views. Song as described in Ridgely and Tudor (1994).
Aphrastura spinicauda. Thorn-tailed Rayadito
30 January c 10 Termas de Palquin, IX Región
4 February c 5 Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales near Petrohue,
X Región
6 February c 10 track A in Pearman (1995), Parque Nacional Laguna
de la Laja, VII Región
9 February c 5 Picnic area, Parque Nacional La Campana, V Región
Asthenes humicola. Dusky-tailed Canastero
9 February at least 4 site A in Pearman (1995), Parque Nacional La
Campana, V Región
Note: One bird was singing, a trilling warble, cf Ridgely and Tudor
(1994).
Pygarrhichas albogularis. White-throated Treerunner
30 January 1 (closely observed) Termas de Palquin, IX Región
6 February 2 along track A in Pearman (1995) just before Parque Nacional
Laguna de la Laja, VII Región; a very beautiful bird!
Pteroptochus (tarnii) castaneus. Chestnut-throated Huet-huet
6 February 1 along track A in Pearman (1995) just before Parque Nacional
Laguna de la Laja, VII Región. After a 45-minutes search I saw this
silent large brown wren-like bird with a very conspicuous white eye-ring
skulking on a fallen tree trunk. One of the highlights of the holiday!
Pteroptochus megapodius. Moustached Turca
9 February 3 (one seen) at site A in Pearman (1995), Parque Nacional
La Campana, V Región. One bird led me straight to the Dusky-tailed
Canastero and the White-throated Tapaculo, so this bird is one of my all-time
favourites!
10 February 1 (heard only) at the Crag Chilia-spot, Región Metropolitana.
Scelorchilus albicollis. White-throated Tapaculo
9 February 1 (closely observed, probably alarming or just curious?)
at site A in Pearman (1995), Parque Nacional La Campana, V Región.
Another very spectacular tapaculo.
Scelorchilus rubecula. Chucao Tapaculo
30 January 2 Termas de Palquin, IX Región
2 February c 5 west of Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
3 February c 5 Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales 10 km west Petrohue,
X Región
4 February c 25 (1 seen!) Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales near
Petrohue, X Región
Eugralla paradoxa. Ochre-flanked Tapaculo
4 February c 5 (only heard, a staccato burst of 6-8 chieet tones),
Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales near Petrohue, X Región
Scytalopus (magellanicus) fuscus. Dusky Tapaculo
27 Januuary c 3 probably heard (a froglike b-rrrrp, repeated several
times), Parque Nacional Rio Clarillo, south of Pirque, Región Metropolitana
11 February 1 between boulders above Embalse de Yeso, Región
Metropolitana.
Note: This bird was completely sooty black with no rufous flanks or
barring. I could ascertain myself of this, because I saw the bird at close
range three times. Fjeldså and Krabbe (1990) give for the range of
magellanicus one spot near Santiago and from Región VII to X: “…From
Isla Grande …n in the Andes at least to Neuquén Arg and Santiago
(Aconcagua) Chile…” and for fuscus they describe: “At least to 950 m, in
mts of Atacama to 4000 m. From Río Bío Bío to Atacama
Chile and in Mendoza Arg. Sympatric with magellanicus at least from Bío
Bío to Santiago (possibly to Aconcagua)…”. Pearman (1994) gives
Magellanic Tapaculo as the only Scyrtalopus in this area, while Ridgely
and Tudor (1994) describe: “.. At n. end of its range in Chile, the Magellanic
Tapaculo seems to occur only at comparatively high elevations; here it
inhabits, apparently exclusively, extensive areas of loose boulders.” Araya
and Chester (1993) describe for Dusky: “..S m fuscus Gould, ranging from
Atacama to Bío Bío, into the Andes up to 4000m…”. So is this
an all-black Magellanic Tapaculo or a Dusky Tapaculo at high elevations?
Turdus falcklandii. Austral Thrush
Very common, seen daily, even in the centre of Santiago, especially
in the park Cerro de Santa Lucia.
Mimus thenca. Chilean Mockingbird
Common, the best place is the Cajon de Maipo (where photographed) and
the surroundings of La Campana, but seen in every Región.
Troglodytes (aedon) musculus. Southern House Wren
Fairly common, seen almost daily in small numbers. Agitating or still
in full song
Tachycineta meyeni. Chilean Swallow
Common throughout the country (photographed).
Notiochelidon (cyanoleuca) patagonica. Patagonian (Blue-and-white) Swallow
Common at higher altitudes in the northern part and at all levels further
south.
Passer domesticus. House Sparrow
Very common, even outside towns.
Anthus correndera. Correndera Pipit
8 February 1 (1 only, how is that possible?) at the Lago Peñuelas,
V Región
Carduelis barbata. Black-chinned Siskin
Common, especially (or exclusively) in pine-tree habitat
Carduelis uropygialis. Yellow-rumped Siskin
11 February c 5 Embalse de Yeso, Región Metropolitana
Zonotrichia capensis. Rufous-collared Sparrow
Common to very common, especially at higher altitudes
Phrygillus gayi. Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch
25 January c 20 Portillo, V Región
26 January c 5 Parque Nacional Rio Clarillo, south of Pirque, Región
Metropolitana
27 January c 10 lower Yeso Valley, Región Metropolitana
6 February c 10 Parque Nacional Laguna de la Laja, VII Región
10 February c 5 lower Yeso Valley, Región Metropolitana
11 February c 30 Embalse de Yeso, Región Metropolitana
Phrygillus patagonicus. Patagonian Sierra-Finch
31 January c 5 near Termas de Puyehue, Parque Nacional Puyehue,
X Región
2 February c 10 west of Ancud, Chiloe Island, X Región
4 February c 10 Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales near Petrohue,
X Región
Phrygillus fruticeti. Mourning Sierra-Finch
25 January 3 Portillo, X Región
11 February c 5 Embalse de Yeso, Región Metropolitana
Phrygillus alaudinus. Band-tailed Sierra-Finch
25 January c 20 Portillo, X Región
11 February c 10 Embalse de Yeso, Región Metropolitana
Diuca diuca. Common Diuca-Finch
Common, seen daily and still singing.
Sicalis auriventris. Greater Yellow-Finch
25 January 2 Portillo, X Región
11 February c 50 (photographed) Embalse de Yeso, Región Metropolitana
Sicalis luteola. Grassland Yellow-Finch
Common, especially in X Región and most particular on Chiloe
Island
Agelaius thilius. Yellow-winged Blackbird
26 January 1 Laguna El Peral, Las Cruces, V Región
29 January 1 between Talca, VII Región and Villarica, IX Región
Sturnella loyca. Long-tailed Meadowlark
Fairly common, especially at road-sides.
Curaeus curaeus. Austral Blackbird
Fairly common (c 5-10 each day), especially at road-sides; seen in
every Región.
Molothorus bonariensis. Shiny Cowbird
Fairly common (c 10-20 each day), especially at road-sides and meadows;
seen in every Región.
___________________
Jan van der Laan
j.laan@worldonline.nl