12 - 21 March 1998
by Eric Shaw
The following is a summary of an Ecuador birding trip that Mark Friedemann and I (both from Tallahassee, Florida) completed between March 12 - 21, 1998. Please email me (eshaw@rocketmail.com) if anyone would like additional information.
Itinerary:
March 12 Late arrival in Quito
(10:30 p.m. via Copa
Airlines
from Miami)
March 13 Old Nono-Mindo Road, Reserva Bellavista
March 14 Reserva Bellavista, Mindo
March 15 Mindo
March 16 Mindo, Rio Silanche (rainforest fragment)
March 17 Palenque Research Station, Yanacocha
March 18 Papallacta Lake, road to Baeza, Baeza
March 19 Huacamayos Ridge, (near) Cabanas San Isidro
March 20 (near) Cabanas San Isidro, Papallacta Pass,
Quito
March 21 Very early departure home (6:00 a.m. via
Copa Airlines)
This was the first trip to Ecuador for either of us, although we had both been to Belize previously. We had made most of our own arrangements, reservations, and trip plans for Belize without any problems. Based on previous trip reports for Ecuador, we decided to retain a guide for most of our Ecuador trip. Looking back, this was one of the best decisions we ever made. We chose Robert Jonsson (Avestravel) as our guide. Robert is an ex-Swede, fluent in both Spanish and English, who is based in Ecuador. He made all arrangements, provided his own 4-wheel drive vehicle, did all the driving, took care of all meals and hotel rooms, translated, etc. Logistically, Ecuador is far more challenging than Belize, although it can be done. We would have missed well over half the species, however, if we had tried to do it all ourselves. Costs per person were:
Airfare (roundtrip,
Miami-Quito)
$ 375
Departure
tax
25
Everything else (via Robert
Jonsson)
1367
plus souvenirs
Our airfare, via Copa Airlines, was arranged through Detravel (305)856-1454/email at: detravel@worldnet.att.net
Robert Jonsson can be contacted by telephone at (5-932)224-469/email
at: avestrav@ns1.impsat.net.ec
Initially, we were somewhat worried that El Nino would play havoc with our plans, particularly on the Pacific side of Ecuador. We were particularly concerned that the Rio Silanche site and Palenque Research Station might be experiencing heavy, continual rains. Such was not the case. We did notice, however, that the coastal area near Guayaquil (which we flew over en route to Quito) was very flooded.
Temperatures were quite pleasant. The only bad weather that we experienced was that at Papallacta Pass (both coming and going) which is normal, and the afternoon rains at Mindo which are to be expected at this time of year. In spite of the "bad" weather, we saw some very nice birds at both sites. Insects were never a problem except for chiggers (long pants help). We used repellent at both Rio Silanche and Palenque Research Station.
Altitude sickness did not bother us, although I had a slight headache the first night (aspirin cured it). Neither of us developed any food or water-related illnesses. We drank bottled water, beer, and sodas. Food was good. Robert had a cooler with plenty of food for snacks and meals on the road (when necessary). Meals in restaurants were quite satisfactory. I found earplugs quite useful in some of the hotels. Although not particularly pertinent to our trip, the exchange rate for US dollars to Ecuadorian sucres was approximately 4,500 sucres to the dollar (and the exchange rate was improving daily). The dollar remains strong in Ecuador. We did not feel threatened or worried about our security in Ecuador (we would have felt differently in Colombia).
We used a variety of books to both prepare for the trip and use in the field.
Field guides included: Hilty & Brown's Birds of Colombia, Ridgely & Tudor's first two volumes of Birds of South America, and Fjeldska & Krabbe's Birds of the High Andes. Robert Ridgely and Paul Greenfield are preparing a new field guide for Ecuador which will prove invaluable when published. Other books that proved useful included the most recent editions of birdfinding guides for Ecuador by Clive Green and Brinley Best. The latter guide is now produced in a loose-leaf format which is an improvement. Trip reports collected from the Internet were especially valuable in preparing for our trip.
In the report below, h = heard only, m = male, f = female, i = immature, * = lifebird
Groups of birds are presented in the order seen, not taxonomic order.
Lifebirds are "seen". In most cases, I have not included numbers of each species seen at each site. Mixed feeding flocks sometimes contained dozens of birds of different species. It was difficult enough keeping track of "new" stuff in each flock. Also, at the end of each day I have listed birds heard only or not seen by me.
March 12:
After a long day of flights (Tallahassee to Tampa to Miami to Panama City, Panama to Guayaquil to Quito; oh, did I mention that I don't fly well?), we arrive at 10:30 p.m. at Quito airport. In spite of the late hour, the airport is thronged with people just past customs (which took no time at all to clear). Robert is there to pick us up (holding a sign reading "Avestravel") and transport us to his farm on the outskirts of Quito. He and his wife, Christine Ivarsdotter, are setting up a bed-and-breakfast at the farm, called Friendship Heights. On the way in to the farm, we see a BAND-WINGED NIGHTJAR* flying around the entrance road.
We stayed in a 2-bedroom guest cottage, each bedroom complete with its own fireplace and stock of wood. The night was chilly enough for a fire. We fall asleep exhausted.
March 13:
The day began early (we had a lot of ground to cover), but not before taking a stroll around the farm before breakfast. The farm has some trees nearby as well as a shrubby slope up from the farm. First birds included:
BLUE-AND-YELLOW TANAGER*
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW*
BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW*
CRIMSON-MANTLED WOODPECKER*
SOUTHERN YELLOW-GROSBEAK*
EARED DOVE*
COMMON GROUND-DOVE
The woodpeckers (2) were gorgeous! After breakfast we packed up and headed out toward the old Nono-Road (by way of Quito). Just outside the gate to Friendship Heights we found more birds:
GREAT THRUSH*
BAND-TAILED SEEDEATER*
SPARKLING VIOLET-EAR*
CINEREOUS CONEBILL*
HOODED SISKIN*
BLACK-TAILED TRAINBEARER*
CRIMSON-MANTLED WOODPECKER
Some of the hummingbirds in Ecuador are really amazing to see. The TRAINBEARER is no exception, with long tail streamers. Driving through Quito we added BROWN-BELLIED SWALLOW* to the trip list. It became very clear to both Mark and I that had we been driving, it would have taken us many long hours to find our way out of Quito. At the outskirts of Quito we began to follow the old Nono-Mindo Road, a road that is almost legendary among Ecuador-bound birders. Several stops produced lots of birds. The weather was cooperative (partly cloudy). Birds included:
BLACK FLOWER-PIERCER*
RUFOUS-NAPED BRUSH-FINCH*
WHITE-WINGED BRUSH-FINCH*
SAPPHIRE-VENTED PUFFLEG*
WHITE-CRESTED ELAENIA*
BLACK-CRESTED WARBLER*
PLAIN-COLORED SEEDEATER*
SCARLET-BELLIED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER*
TUFTED TIT-TYRANT*
TYRIAN METALTAIL*
MASKED FLOWER-PIERCER*
AMERICAN KESTREL
SPECTACLED WHITESTART*
COLLARED INCA*
WHITE-SIDED FLOWER-PIERCER*
BLUE-CAPPED TANAGER*
BAND-TAILED PIGEON
FLAMMULATED TREEHUNTER*
We soon began to follow the Tandayapa River which follows the road for much of its length. Other birds were seen:
BLACK PHOEBE ("white-winged" race)
SLATY-BACKED CHAT-TYRANT*
SPECKLED HUMMINGBIRD*
BLACKBURNIAN WARBLER
ANDEAN COCK-OF-THE-ROCK m,f,*
SLATE-THROATED WHITESTART*
WHITE-TAILED TYRANNULET*
CINNAMON FLYCATCHER*
BERYL-SPANGLED TANAGER*
TURQUOISE JAY*
AZARA'S SPINETAIL*
BROWN-CAPPED VIREO*
BROWN INCA*
GOLDEN-CROWNED FLYCATCHER*
BOOTED RACKET-TAIL f,*
THREE-STRIPED WARBLER*
BROAD-WINGED HAWK
BLUE-WINGED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER*
RED-FACED SPINETAIL*
BLACK-CAPPED TANAGER*
GOLDEN TANAGER*
GOLDEN-RUMPED EUPHONIA*
BLACK-WINGED SALTATOR*
FLAME-RUMPED TANAGER*
RUFOUS-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER
SMOKE-COLORED PEWEE*
RED-HEADED BARBET m,*
SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW*
YELLOW-BELLIED SEEDEATER*
We were finally putting some "faces" on some of the birdsong and notes we had been hearing all day. Some birds will always be etched in my mind: SCARLET-BELLIED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER, ANDEAN COCK-OF-THE-ROCK, and RED-HEADED BARBET were truly spectacular. Toward late afternoon, we turned down the road to Reserva Bellavista. More birds were seen (and heard):
GOLDEN-HEADED QUETZAL f,*
BLACK-CHINNED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER*
GREEN-AND-BLACK FRUITEATER*
DUSKY BUSH-TANAGER*
GRASS-GREEN TANAGER*
MASKED TROGON*
PEARLED TREERUNNER*
We arrived at Reserva Bellavista (Reserva Bellavista has a web-page, maintained by Jim Danzenbaker: www.alink.net/~jimd/bellavista.html; also Richard Parsons, the owner can be reached at: aecie3@ecnet.ec). From a distance it looks like something out of Swiss Family Robinson, a large, multi-level dome with restaurant and bar on the first floor, individual rooms on the second floor, and a large open sleeping area on the third floor. The outside deck is festooned with hummingbird feeders which were very active!
BUFF-TAILED CORONET* (many)
VIOLET-TAILED SYLPH* (wow)
FAWN-BREASTED BRILLIANT*
GREEN VIOLET-EAR*
SPECKLED HUMMINGBIRD
COLLARED INCA
There are many CORONETS defending the feeders. They are quite aggressive and will attempt (usually with success) to drive away larger hummers. An early evening walk produced PAURAQUE and a somewhat distant SWALLOW-TAILED NIGHTJAR* (alas, without its tail streamers).
Other birds heard only or not seen by me (but seen by others) during the day:
RUDDY PIGEON h
WHITE-TIPPED DOVE h
GORGETED SUNANGEL
TOUCAN BARBET h
PLATE-BILLED MOUNTAIN-TOUCAN h
CHESTNUT-CROWNED ANTPITTA h
TAWNY ANTPITTA h
RUFOUS-HEADED PYGMY-TYRANT h
PLAIN-TAILED WREN h
GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN h
RUSSET-CROWNED WARBLER
BUFF-BREASTED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER h
ASH-BREASTED SIERRA-FINCH
STRIPE-HEADED BRUSH-FINCH h
March 14:
An early morning walk along the road just outside the gate to Reserva Bellavista produced AZARA'S SPINETAIL, MASKED FLOWER-PIERCER, and TURQUOISE JAY. During breakfast we were entertained with numerous hummingbirds, as well as other birds in the trees nearby:
BLUE-WINGED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER
BLUE-CAPPED TANAGER
COLLARED INCA
BUFF-TAILED CORONET (many)
GREEN VIOLET-EAR
GORGETED SUNANGEL*
SLATE-THROATED WHITESTART
SPECKLED HUMMINGBIRD
After breakfast we walked the road which produced:
RUSSET-CROWNED WARBLER*
GOLDEN-CROWNED FLYCATCHER
WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT
PLUMBEOUS PIGEON*
WHITE-TAILED TYRANNULET
FLAVESCENT FLYCATCHER*
DUSKY BUSH-TANAGER
We entered the thick cloud forest along Trail "W" and found:
OCELLATED TAPACULO*
STRIPED TREEHUNTER h
Upon exiting we heard CHESTNUT-CROWNED ANTPITTA along the Nanogalito Road. Walking back along the main road to Reserva Bellavista, we found a mixed feeding flock as well as some very nice individual birds:
GRASS-GREEN TANAGER
BLUE-WINGED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER
STREAK-NECKED FLYCATCHER*
STREAKED TUFTEDCHEEK*
TANAGER-FINCH*
SPECTACLED WHITESTART
AZARA'S SPINETAIL
WHITE-TAILED TYRANNULET
SLATE-THROATED WHITESTART
GORGETED SUNANGEL
SPILLMAN'S TAPACULO h
The TANAGER-FINCH was an excellent find along the main road. The bird cooperated wonderfully for some photographs and tape recordings. Back at Reserva Bellavista we had some time before packing up to move on to Mindo. At the lodge itself we found:
PLATE-BILLED MOUNTAIN-TOUCAN* (wow)
SQUIRREL CUCKOO (darker than its Belize cousins)
PURPLE-THROATED WOODSTAR f,*
Before we left, we decided to walk the "H" Trail which is located very close to the Reserva Bellavista gate. We were accompanied by Tony Nunnery, the resident guide. Birds included:
PLUSHCAP*
SPECTACLED WHITESTART
SLATY-BACKED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH h
THREE-STRIPED WARBLER
DUSKY BUSH-TANAGER
PEARLED TREERUNNER
STREAKED TUFTEDCHEEK
STRIPED TREEHUNTER*
MONTANE WOODCREEPER*
Packed up, we left Reserva Bellavista for Mindo. Reserva Bellavista is well worth a visit and deserves a more extended stay. We will return. The road to Mindo passes through some good forest fragments. We found several mixed feeding flocks that included:
BERYL-SPANGLED TANAGER
DUSKY BUSH-TANAGER
GOLDEN-NAPED TANAGER
FLAME-FACED TANAGER*
BLUE-WINGED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER
PEARLED TREERUNNER
BLUE-AND-BLACK TANAGER*
STREAKED TUFTEDCHEEK
RUFOUS-HEADED PYGMY-TYRANT*
RUFOUS SPINETAIL*
CINNAMON FLYCATCHER
GRASS-GREEN TANAGER
ANDEAN SOLITAIRE i,*
CAPPED CONEBILL m,f,*
RED-FACED SPINETAIL
SMOKE-COLORED PEWEE
FLAVESCENT FLYCATCHER
WHITE-SIDED FLOWER-PIERCER
BAND-TAILED PIGEON
YELLOW-BREASTED ANTPITTA*
The ANTPITTA was a special treat. Robert knew a good location along the road where we pulled over and entered the forest. The bird responded to taped playback and perched (rather surprised) on a log in the middle of a thickly-forested slope. He did not perch long, however, since I initiated what was to become known as a "man-slide" down the slope. We never did hear the ANTPITTA after that (probably because it was dead from shock).
We rolled into Mindo later that afternoon during a torrential downpour. We learned that Mindo was experiencing regular mid-to-late afternoon rains. We did see a HOUSE WREN perched on a wall inside town. We checked into our hotel and had some cold cervezas (there are two brands of Ecuadorian beer, the more common Pilsener and the less common Club; Pilsner comes in very large bottles and is quite palatable).
Other birds heard only or not seen by me (but seen by others) during the day:
HOOK-BILLED KITE
DARK-BACKED WOOD-QUAIL h
BARRED PARAKEET
GOLDEN-HEADED QUETZAL h
MASKED TROGON h
TOUCAN BARBET h
BARRED BECARD h
GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN h
PLAIN-TAILED WREN h
GLOSSY-BLACK THRUSH
March 15:
An early rise again. Mark and I had worried that it would be raining at dawn (thus validating our El Nino worries), but instead it was partly cloudy which is perfect for birds in Ecuador. Due to the heavy rains, Robert determined that our best trail would be the "yellow house" trail. Driving through Mindo we saw a PACIFIC HORNERO* near the public swimming pool. There were numerous ROCK DOVES in the city streets which looked very different from our birds (these were mostly white with little color). On the outskirts of town we encountered our first feeding flock:
TROPICAL KINGBIRD
RUSTY-MARGINED FLYCATCHER*
YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA*
RED-FACED SPINETAIL
FLAME-RUMPED TANAGER
PALM TANAGER*
ECUADORIAN THRUSH*
BANANAQUIT*
GOLDEN TANAGER
BLUE-NECKED TANAGER*
SHINY COWBIRD*
At the "yellow house" it quickly became apparent that a 4-wheel drive vehicle would be essential to climb the path. Robert pulled over at a spot with good forest on one side. Following a trail down into the dense forest we came to a small stream. We found a BLACK-TAILED FLYCATCHER* near a nest above the stream. Hovering nearby was a GREEN-FRONTED LANCEBILL*. Responding to a taped call, an ESMERALDA'S ANTBIRD* briefly appeared to check us out. We returned to our vehicle and drove further, stopping for another feeding flock:
YELLOW TYRANNULET*
SCALE-CRESTED PYGMY-TYRANT*
LESSER SEEDFINCH f
SCALY-THROATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER*
SPOTTED WOODCREEPER*
YELLOW-THROATED BUSH-TANAGER*
AMERICAN REDSTART f
BUFF-THROATED SALTATOR
BOOTED RACKET-TAIL m (wow)
ORANGE-BELLIED EUPHONIA*
WHITE-SHOULDERED TANAGER*
TROPICAL PEWEE
BLACK-WINGED SALTATOR
RED-HEADED BARBET f
LINEATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER*
BAY WREN h
Proceeding further up the road, we saw a ROADSIDE HAWK perched in a tree. Entering an open area of pasture with some scattered trees we found several SQUIRREL CUCKOOS as well as BAY-HEADED TANAGER* (adult with juvenile) and a THICK-BILLED EUPHONIA*. We flushed a PAURAQUE from the road at 9:00 a.m.
The road came to an end at some tall forest. Along Trail "1", we found PLAIN-BROWN WOODCREEPER*, SPOTTED WOODCREEPER, and another THICK-BILLED EUPHONIA. Returning to the main trail, we came across another mixed feeding flock:
THREE-STRIPED WARBLER
TAWNY-BELLIED HERMIT*
BUFF-FRONTED FOLIAGE-GLEANER*
GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER*
SLATY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER*
RED-HEADED BARBET m
SCALED ANTPITTA h
RUFOUS-RUMPED ANTWREN*
BLACKBURNIAN WARBLER
BARRED PUFFBIRD h
GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN*
Other birds seen (or heard) along the Main Trail included ORNATE FLYCATCHER*, ANDEAN COCK-OF-THE-ROCK (2 males), BARRED FOREST-FALCON h, BOOTED RACKET-TAIL f, and CRIMSON-RUMPED TOUCANET*. Returning to our vehicle, we realized that the keys were, ah, locked inside. This was not a good situation. Mark demonstrated some of his vast experience gained as a juvenile delinquent by directing Robert on how to break into the car (without damage) within 2 minutes. Back to Mindo! Along the way:
AMERICAN KESTREL
SMOOTH-BILLED ANI
BLACK VULTURE
TURKEY VULTURE
CHOCO TOUCAN*
PALM TANAGER
It was early afternoon and rain was imminent. We stopped at some mudflats near the river about one kilometer west of Mindo. Not far from the road in the mudflats: SUNBITTERN*! The bird gave us excellent views as it foraged in the mudflats (even displaying its wing patterns). While there, we met some other birders who had experienced problems near Quito. They had been told that the road to Papallacta Pass was closed. After Robert questioned them, it was learned that they were given the wrong information (yet another reason to have a guide). At the river were two WHITE-CAPPED DIPPERS*. Mark missed them while he photographed the SUNBITTERN. He was a man on mission after that: we would find some more DIPPERS or die trying. It soon began raining and we headed back to town. Along the way, we found ORANGE-CROWNED EUPHONIA*, FLAME-RUMPED TANAGER, and BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT m,f,*. We returned to our hotel for a couple of well-deserved cervezas.
The rain eased up some and we tried birding the road to Mindo. Once again we encountered a mixed feeding flock which included:
GLISTENING-GREEN TANAGER*
METALLIC-GREEN TANAGER*
DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER
GOLDEN TANAGER
Further back down the road we found:
SULPHUR-RUMPED FLYCATCHER
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER
SMOOTH-BILLED ANI
BRAN-COLORED FLYCATCHER*
TROPICAL PARULA
SOUTHERN BEARDLESS-TYRANNULET*
PACIFIC STREAKED-ANTWREN*
PIRATIC FLYCATCHER*
BAY-HEADED TANAGER
VARIABLE SEEDEATER*
It was late afternoon. The rain was reduced to a light drizzle, clouds and fog were rolling in, and light wasn't great. We decided to bird a less-used road leading out of Mindo and found:
YELLOW-TUFTED DACNIS*
FAWN-BREASTED TANAGER*
WHITE-WHISKERED HERMIT*
WHITE-LINED TANAGER m,*
LITTLE HERMIT
OLIVE-CROWNED YELLOWTHROAT f,*
ROADSIDE HAWK
Returning to the river crossing near the earlier SUNBITTERN, we found TORRENT DUCK m,* perched on a large boulder in the middle of the river. A TORRENT TYRANNULET* was perched nearby at the river's edge. A BLACK PHOEBE was also present.
Other birds heard only or not seen by me (but seen by others) during the day:
BICOLORED HAWK
WHITE-THROATED CRAKE h
SPOTTED SANDPIPER
RUDDY QUAIL-DOVE h
RED-BILLED PARROT
GREEN-CROWNED WOODNYMPH
COLLARED TROGON h
TOUCAN BARBET h
POWERFUL WOODPECKER h
RUFOUS-BREASTED ANTTHRUSH h
SCALED ANTPITTA h
WHISKERED WREN h
BAY WREN h
GIANT COWBIRD
ORANGE-BILLED SPARROW h
March 16:
Another early start to the day. The early start was necessary since we were going to the Rio Silanche rainforest fragment. But first we were going to bird the road out of Mindo and take advantage of the good weather (partly cloudy). Our first good bird of the day was a distantly-viewed, calling WATTLED GUAN*. This was soon followed by a male BOOTED RACKET-TAIL. Although we saw RACKET-TAILS earlier, we never tired of them. Other birds appeared, particularly at one productive site along the road:
PURPLE-BIBBED WHITETIP*
POWERFUL WOODPECKER f,*
CINNAMON BECARD*
BRONZE-WINGED PARROT*
CHESTNUT-MANDIBLED TOUCAN*
PALE-MANDIBLED ARACARI*
STRONG-BILLED WOODCREEPER
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER
LESSER SEEDFINCH f
FLAME-RUMPED TANAGER m,f
SQUIRREL CUCKOO
DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER
METALLIC-GREEN TANAGER
BERYL-SPANGLED TANAGER
TRI-COLORED BRUSH-FINCH*
WHITE-WINGED TANAGER*
BLACK-AND-WHITE BECARD m,*
FAWN-BREASTED TANAGER
ROADSIDE HAWK
ANDEAN EMERALD*
GOLDEN-NAPED TANAGER
BAND-TAILED PIGEON
BLACKBURNIAN WARBLER
SLATY SPINETAIL*
RUDDY PIGEON*
A little ways further down from the Mindo turnoff along the new highway is a farm called Lindo Mindo. Robert was hoping that a large flowering tree was in bloom, since this tree attracts multitudes of hummers. The owner welcomes birders (for a very small fee, paid by Robert). We were in luck. The tree was in bloom and there were hummers everywhere:
BROWN VIOLET-EAR*
VIOLET-TAILED SYLPH
RUFOUS-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD
PURPLE-BIBBED WHITETIP
BOOTED RACKET-TAIL m
BROWN-CAPPED VIREO
BROWN INCA
There were also birds in some of the flowering shrubs scattered on the grounds:
MOUNTAIN WREN*
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW
GOLDEN TANAGER
FLAME-RUMPED TANAGER
We exited off the "new" highway near the village of Pedro Vincente de Maldonado and followed a dirt road. This was largely open country with scattered trees and shrubs, but it produced a few birds:
SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW
RUFOUS-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER
COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER
SWALLOW-TAILED KITE
TURKEY VULTURE
STRIPED CUCKOO
We came to a forest that was quite tall and dense. Parking the car, we enjoyed our lunch while viewing:
WESTERN SLATY-ANTSHRIKE*
DOT-WINGED ANTWREN
FLAME-RUMPED TANAGER
BANANAQUIT
WEDGE-BILLED WOODCREEPER
SWALLOW-TAILED KITE
Finished with our lunch, we took a trail which led into the dense forest. It was quite humid and rather warm. We had applied a good insect repellent. We soon found a male WHITE-BEARDED MANAKIN* which was calling and snapping its wings. A bit further Robert enticed a CHESTNUT-BACKED ANTBIRD* into view with taped playback. Great looks at a shy bird. Further on, we found DUSKY PIGEON*. Mark discovered a small (immature) tarantula on the trail which resembled a Mexican Redrump Tarantula (Brachypelma vagans). Two PURPLE-THROATED FRUITCROWS* called from their perches in a tree. Nearby, a mixed feeding flock produced:
GREEN HONEYCREEPER
GUIRA TANAGER*
LESSER GREENLET
ORANGE-FRONTED BARBET m,*
RUDDY FOLIAGE-GLEANER*
BLUE-WHISKERED TANAGER*
TAWNY-CRESTED TANAGER*
RED-RUMPED WOODPECKER*
GREEN-CROWNED WOODNYMPH f,*
The BLUE-WHISKERED TANAGER was only seen by me. As I was attempting to get the others on to it, it flew. In my excitement, I confess my directions were less than clear. Returning to our vehicle, we drove a bit further to the river itself and hiked along the road. It became cloudy and threatened rain. We still managed to see RUSTY-MARGINED FLYCATCHER, GOLDEN-FACED TYRANNULET*, FLAME-RUMPED TANAGER (these tanagers were seen in numerous places on our trip), and finally near the river itself, two BUFF-RUMPED WARBLERS. We drove to Santo Domingo for the night.
Other birds heard only or not seen by me (but seen by others) during the day:
LITTLE TINAMOU h
RED-BILLED PARROT
GRAY-RUMPED SWIFT
PURPLE-CHESTED HUMMINGBIRD
LITTLE WOODSTAR
COLLARED TROGON h
OLIVACEOUS PICULET
STREAK-HEADED WOODCREEPER
GREAT ANTSHRIKE h
RUSSET ANTSHRIKE
BLACK-HEADED ANTTHRUSH h
CLUB-WINGED MANAKIN
SILVER-THROATED TANAGER
RUFOUS-WINGED TANAGER
ORANGE-BILLED SPARROW h
March 17:
It became routine: an early wakeup for an early start. It didn't bother me; I'm a morning person. Mark was less thrilled. We wanted to get to Palenque Research Station near dawn. Again, the weather cooperated: partly cloudy skies and no rain. Arriving at the gate to the Station, Robert had to honk the horn in order to wake the gatekeeper. We drove in through a large oil palm plantation and finally entered good forest. The station house is located within the forest. The stationkeeper's family was awake when we arrived. We had breakfast outside and watched as the sun rose. Our first birds included a male ORANGE-FRONTED BARBET, BLACK-CHEEKED WOODPECKER, SWAINSON'S THRUSH, male SUMMER TANAGER, PLAIN-BROWN WOODCREEPER, male SWALLOW-TANAGER*, and several BAND-BACKED WRENS (in the large cactus near the station house).
Finished with breakfast, we began to walk the trails. Responding to a taped playback, a DUSKY ANTBIRD* appeared in thick undergrowth. We were buzzed by a WHITE-WHISKERED HERMIT. Other birds were viewed along the trails:
COLLARED TROGON m
DUSKY-FACED TANAGER*
BAY WREN*
PALLID DOVE*
BUFF-RUMPED WARBLER
DOT-WINGED ANTWREN m
GUAYAQUIL WOODPECKER m,*
PALE-MANDIBLED ARACARI
MASKED TITYRA
PURPLE-THROATED FRUITCROW
BLACK VULTURE
We ventured into forest from along one of the paths. Sometimes, you get lucky. We sure did. Two SPECTACLED OWLS* were flushed, one perching in clear view (and photographed). Truly a stunning owl. Returning to the trail and walking further, we found another mixed feeding flock with some very good birds:
RED-BILLED SCYTHEBILL*
SCARLET-RUMPED CACIQUE*
RED-HEADED BARBET m
WHITE-SHOULDERED TANAGER
GUIRA TANAGER m
Other birds seen along the trails included SLATY ANTWREN f,* and BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER. We returned to our vehicle and drove to another part of the research station, where it was much more open with scattered trees. At a small pond we came upon four LEAST GREBES, including two nests (one with a visible egg) on small islands, as well as WATTLED JACANA*. In the more open areas we saw:
TROPICAL KINGBIRD
PACIFIC PARROTLET*
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER
GREAT ANTSHRIKE m,*
GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN*
BANANAQUIT
GRAY-LINED HAWK*
We had a long drive ahead of us, so it was time to leave. This is another place, though, that deserves more time. Our next destination (not counting birding stops along the road) was Yanacocha, a tall peak outside Quito. It was hours away. We did do some roadside birding, though. Outside Patricia Pilar (town) we came across hundreds of BARN SWALLOWS. A bit further Mark and I saw a small rail alongside the road near some tall weeds: WHITE-THROATED CRAKE*. It always pays to keep your eyes open. Near Tinalandia, we developed a flat tire. Amazingly, we were within 100 yards of a tire-repair shop. While waiting for the flat tire to be fixed, we saw three SOOTY-HEADED TYRANNULETS* in a nearby tree. Back on the road again.
Near the town of Aloag (higher in elevation now) a PARAMO SEEDEATER* flew across the road. We entered Quito and took the road up Yanacocha. It became extremely foggy with low-level clouds rolling along the mountainside beneath us. We finally came to the end of the road and got out to walk the trail. We encountered some good birds:
GLOSSY FLOWER-PIERCER*
BLUE-BACKED CONEBILL*
STREAK-THROATED BUSH-TYRANT*
BARRED FRUITEATER*
RUFOUS WREN*
HOODED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER*
SCARLET-BELLIED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER
RUFOUS-NAPED BRUSH-FINCH
GOLDEN-BREASTED PUFFLEG*
UNICOLORED TAPACULO*
BLUE-AND-BLACK TANAGER
SAPPHIRE-VENTED PUFFLEG
As the sun set, we headed back to the car. Along the trail we encountered a SWALLOW-TAILED NIGHTJAR* as it flew around us for several minutes. It had no tail streamers, so it was either a female or male without its streamers. Capping things off was an IMPERIAL SNIPE h, flying and calling, but alas not to be seen.
Other birds heard only or not seen by me (but seen by others) during the day:
LITTLE TINAMOU h
LAUGHING FALCON
RUFOUS-FRONTED WOOD-QUAIL h
WHITE-THROATED SCREECH-OWL h
BAND-WINGED NIGHTJAR h
GRAY-RUMPED SWIFT
LONG-TAILED HERMIT
LITTLE HERMIT h
BUFF-WINGED STARFRONTLET
BLUE-CROWNED MOTMOT h
RUFOUS MOTMOT h
IMMACULATE ANTBIRD h
BLACK-HEADED ANTTHRUSH h
UNDULATED ANTPITTA h
CHESTNUT-NAPED ANTPITTA h
RUFOUS ANTPITTA h
TAWNY ANTPITTA h
ANDEAN TAPACULO h
WHISKERED WREN h
YELLOW-TAILED ORIOLE
BLACK-CHESTED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER h
March 18:
After a restful night back at Friendship Heights, we were ready for the eastern side of the Andes. But first, a quick look around Friendship Heights after breakfast:
ASH-BREASTED SIERRA-FINCH*
RUSTY FLOWER-PIERCER*
SOUTHERN YELLOW-GROSBEAK
BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW
HOODED SISKIN
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW
We departed for Papallacta Pass which is only 30 minutes or so away from Friendship Heights. The weather did not look good towards the Pass. Sure enough, the weather turned bad after we got up to the Pass: rain, clouds, fog, wind. There would be no CONDORS this morning. The fog broke long enough for us to scan Papallacta Lake from a distance. We were able to clearly see several ANDEAN TEAL* and YELLOW-BILLED PINTAIL* in the lake itself. Traveling further, we stopped for a mixed feeding flock just above Papallacta Village:
LACRIMOSE MOUNTAIN-TANAGER*
PALE-NAPED BRUSH-FINCH*
BLACK-CAPPED TYRANNULET*
SPECTACLED WHITESTART
MOUNTAIN VELVETBREAST*
TYRIAN METALTAIL
CINEREOUS CONEBILL
SCARLET-BELLIED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER
SWORD-BILLED HUMMINGBIRD* (wow)
In Papallacta Village we stopped to scan the flowering vegetation on the hillside, hoping for more looks at SWORD-BILLED HUMMINGBIRDS. The only birds seen were the ubiquitous RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROWS and half a dozen HOODED SISKINS. A bit farther into town we stopped to look at an ANDEAN GULL* perched at the water plant.
The weather was beginning to improve. We drove further down the road and pulled over at a spot that Robert knew had potential. We walked a dirt road and found:
GRAY-BREASTED MOUNTAIN-TOUCAN*
TURQUOISE JAY
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW
GREAT THRUSH
WHITE-BANDED TYRANNULET*
RUFOUS-BREASTED CHAT-TYRANT*
SUPERCILIARIED HEMISPINGUS*
BLUE-BACKED CONEBILL
BARRED BECARD m,*
TAWNY-RUMPED TYRANNULET*
MOUNTAIN AVOCETBILL*
We returned to our vehicle and continued driving. The road followed a river for much of the way. Just above Cuyuja Village we saw a female TORRENT DUCK on a rock in the river. We exited the road near Cuyuja Village and, once again, walked a dirt road, finding:
COLLARED INCA
TYRIAN METALTAIL
GREAT THRUSH
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW
WHITE-SIDED FLOWER-PIERCER
MOUNTAIN CACIQUE*
TORRENT TYRANNULET
RUFOUS-CROWNED TODY-TYRANT*
BLACK-EARED HEMISPINGUS*
SPECKLED HUMMINGBIRD
LONG-TAILED SYLPH*
WHITE-TIPPED SWIFT*
TORRENT DUCK m,f
GREEN JAY
BLACK PHOEBE ("white-winged" form)
Driving further toward Baeza, we saw other birds along the road:
TORRENT DUCK 2m,1f
RUSSET-BACKED OROPENDULA*
BLACK PHOEBE ("white-winged")
SPOTTED SANDPIPER
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW
EMERALD TOUCANET
ROADSIDE HAWK
WHITE-CAPPED DIPPER (Mark was thrilled)
BLACK-BILLED THRUSH*
TROPICAL KINGBIRD
Arriving at Baeza, we checked into our hotel (San Rafael) and headed back out for some afternoon birding along the road to Tena. More good birds:
PALE-EDGED FLYCATCHER*
RUSSET-BACKED OROPENDULA
CANADA WARBLER
BARRED BECARD m,f
WHITE-TAILED TYRANNULET
SLATE-THROATED WHITESTART
GREEN JAY
CINNAMON FLYCATCHER
BRONZY INCA*
ANDEAN SOLITAIRE
SUBTROPICAL CACIQUE*
SAFFRON-CROWNED TANAGER* (wow)
BLUE-CAPPED TANAGER
BLUE-GRAY TANAGER ("white-winged")
OLIVACEOUS SISKIN 2m,1f,*
The BLUE-GRAY TANAGERS, with their large white wing patches, looked very different from the birds in Belize. After we returned to Baeza for a very nice dinner, we again birded the Tena road just outside Baeza. We successfully spotlighted two LYRE-TAILED NIGHTJARS* (male and female) on the rocky slopes. The male sported an incredible tail which draped over the rocks.
Other birds heard only or not seen by me (but seen by others) during the day:
COMMON GROUND-DOVE
SMOOTH-BILLED ANI
SPARKLING VIOLET-EAR
BUFF-WINGED STARFRONTLET
BLACK-TAILED TRAINBEARER
CRIMSON-MANTLED WOODPECKER
MONTANE WOODCREEPER
AZARA'S SPINETAIL
TAWNY ANTPITTA h
RUFOUS ANTPITTA h
ANDEAN TAPACULO h
RUFOUS-VENTED TAPACULO h
YELLOW-BELLIED CHAT-TYRANT h
SOCIAL FLYCATCHER
ASHY-HEADED TYRANNULET h
BROWN-BELLIED SWALLOW
RUFOUS WREN
MOUNTAIN WREN
GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN
PALE-EYED THRUSH h
BLACK-CRESTED WARBLER
THREE-STRIPED WARBLER
RUSSET-CROWNED WARBLER
GLOSSY FLOWER-PIERCER
ORANGE-BELLIED EUPHONIA
FLAME-FACED TANAGER
BLACK-CAPPED TANAGER
SLATY BRUSH-FINCH
STRIPE-HEADED BRUSH-FINCH
March 19:
When dawn broke, we decided to modify our plans somewhat and make a try for Huacamayos Ridge today instead of the next day. The weather looked reasonable for the Ridge, which frequently experiences bad weather. We parked our vehicle near the trail head. As we were preparing to begin our hike, two Ecuadorians on a motorbike drove up. They began conversing with Robert in Spanish. After several minutes, Robert told us to begin walking up the trail (Robert went with us). The Ecuadorians had demanded to see a letter of permission from the local authorities before we would be allowed up the trail. Robert called their bluff, however, and demanded to see their identification and authorization. They, of course, had no such paperwork and were left nonplused. We left them behind us and watched them drive off.
We continued up the trail which was heavily overgrown and poorly maintained. The forest on both sides of the trail was dense. There was a good bit of fog as well. It was important to watch your step since the trail dropped off downslope quite steeply on one side. There were some excellent birds to be seen:
COLLARED INCA
BLUISH FLOWER-PIERCER*
WHITE-RIMMED BRUSH-FINCH*
HOODED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER
MOUNTAIN CACIQUE
TURQUOISE JAY
TAWNY-BELLIED HERMIT
RUSSET-CROWNED WARBLER
RUFOUS WREN
GREEN-AND-BLACK FRUITEATER
COMMON BUSH-TANAGER*
YELLOW-BILLED CACIQUE
SLATE-CROWNED ANTPITTA*
RUFOUS-HEADED PYGMY-TYRANT
MASKED FLOWER-PIERCER
The WHITE-RIMMED BRUSH-FINCH responded to tape playback and gave us good views. The HERMIT hovered within two feet of my face (no need for binoculars). The YELLOW-BILLED CACIQUE proved to be very shy and elusive; this species seems much less shy in Belize. The SLATE-CROWNED ANTPITTA was lured in with tape playback. It popped up into view within five feet of us, giving all of us excellent views (Mark was even able to take a photograph). Returning to our vehicle, we headed back toward Baeza and took the road leading to the entrance to Cabanas San Isidro. We saw several GREEN JAYS. We parked the car near the "Log Trail". We walked both the Log Trail and the road nearby, finding some nice birds:
EMERALD TOUCANET
LONG-TAILED ANTBIRD m,f,*
BLACKBURNIAN WARBLER
RUFOUS-CROWNED TODY-TYRANT
MONTANE WOODCREEPER
BERYL-SPANGLED TANAGER
GREEN JAY
PALE-EYED THRUSH*
SPECKLE-FACED PARROT*
MOUNTAIN CACIQUE
BLUE-WINGED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER
WHITE-SIDED FLOWER-PIERCER
CRIMSON-MANTLED WOODPECKER
SAFFRON-CROWNED TANAGER
SPECTACLED WHITESTART
BAND-TAILED PIGEON
BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW
WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT
WHITE-CHESTED SWIFT*
SICKLE-WINGED GUAN*
BLACK-CAPPED TANAGER
GLOSSY-BLACK THRUSH*
The sun began to set and we began the drive back to Baeza. As dusk approached, a bird flew across the road and perched in a tree: HIGHLAND MOTMOT*. The bird was absolutely beautiful in the fading light.
Other birds heard only or not seen by me (but seen by others) during the day:
SCALY-NECKED AMAZON
SQUIRREL CUCKOO
LONG-TAILED SYLPH
BLACK-BILLED MOUNTAIN-TOUCAN h
POWERFUL WOODPECKER h
OLIVE-BACKED WOODCREEPER
WEDGE-BILLED WOODCREEPER
PEARLED TREERUNNER
RUFOUS SPINETAIL
STRIPED TREEHUNTER h
CHESTNUT-CROWNED ANTPITTA h
WHITE-BELLIED ANTPITTA h
RUFOUS-VENTED TAPACULO h
OCELLATED TAPACULO h
CROWNED CHAT-TYRANT
HANDSOME FLYCATCHER
BRONZE-OLIVE PYGMY-TYRANT
ASHY-HEADED TYRANNULET h
HOUSE WREN
BLACK-BILLED PEPPERSHRIKE h
GRASS-GREEN TANAGER
CHESTNUT-CROWNED BRUSH-FINCH h
March 20:
The weather was not cooperative on our final full day. We were going to try for GIANT ANTPITTA at a new location along the Cabanas San Isidro road. It was drizzling when we set out. Along the road at dawn we found two RUFOUS-BELLIED NIGHTHAWKS* flying in open areas (but near forest). Having small tails, they resembled large bats.
Arriving at the GIANT ANTPITTA spot, we had breakfast and then played a tape with GIANT ANTPITTA calls. We got a response but it was deep in the forest. There would be no GIANT ANTPITTA today. Another bird for a future visit. Since the weather showed no signs of improving any time soon, we decided to head back to Papallacta Pass where the weather could be completely opposite from anywhere else.
As we drove upward toward the Pass, the weather showed little indication that it would relent. Fog and clouds rolled along the mountainsides. Several kilometers east of the Pass, we pulled over to walk around a bit. We found:
RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW
GREAT THRUSH
WHITE-THROATED TYRANNULET*
SPECTACLED WHITESTART
PEARLED TREERUNNER
CINEREOUS CONEBILL
SUPERCILIARIED HEMISPINGUS
We drove further, parked alongside the road, and walked a trail winding through the mountainside. A small lake appeared below, which harbored both ANDEAN DUCK* and SILVERY GREBE* (both seen well using Robert's scope). There was a nearby patch of polylepis forest which we began to methodically check. We found some great birds:
ANDEAN TIT-SPINETAIL*
TAWNY ANTPITTA*
WHITE-THROATED TYRANNULET
GIANT CONEBILL*
BLACK-BACKED BUSH-TANAGER*
PEARLED TREERUNNER
PLUMBEOUS SIERRA-FINCH 2m,1f,*
There were several GIANT CONEBILLS (Mark's quest bird for the trip). We were able to get excellent views of all the birds (in fact, a TAWNY ANTPITTA was perched inside the forest within six feet of me).
We drove to the Pass and took the road to the radio towers (elevation 4,100+ meters). The weather was still miserable (drizzling, windy, foggy, freezing), but we kept finding birds:
BAR-WINGED CINCLODES*
BLUE-MANTLED THORNBILL*
TAWNY ANTPITTA
ECUADORIAN HILLSTAR*
MANY-STRIPED CANASTERO*
WHITE-CHINNED THISTLETAIL*
PLAIN-CAPPED GROUND-TYRANT*
BROWN-BACKED CHAT-TYRANT*
We returned to our vehicle for the drive back to Friendship Heights (and to thaw out). A bit below the Pass, we saw a strange mammal alongside the road which proceeded to rapidly move away. Grayish brown with an obvious chestnut front, stout-bodied but quick, the animal turned out to be a PUDU*, a very rare Andean antelope which is very seldom seen. Mark was even able to take several quick photos before it disappeared behind some hills. We actually saw only a few other mammals during the trip: several rabbits, an armadillo, and domestic animals (e.g., llamas). Similarly, we did not see many reptiles or amphibians: several small dull-colored frogs, a green anole with a tan dorsal stripe, and a dead juvenile coral snake brought to us by a worker at Palenque Research Station. We heard frogs calling near Papallacta Pass which Robert identified as a species of Atelopus.
Further down the road we saw an AMERICAN KESTREL perched high in one of the few trees. We returned to Friendship Heights where we discovered that our dirty laundry (dropped off several days before) had been thoroughly cleaned by staff. This was no small labor and we tipped the staff accordingly (hazardous duty pay). A quick tour of the farm revealed several more AMERICAN KESTRELS as well as a pair of HARRIS' HAWKS. That concluded our birding for the day, as we headed into Quito for souvenirs that afternoon. Robert took us to several good shops where we loaded up on souvenirs. I went completely overboard and bought numerous (inexpensive) handpainted carvings of toucans and parrots which had to be packed in a custom-built box for the return home. Every carving arrived undamaged and I was glad I had made the purchase.
We also stopped by Paul Greenfield's art gallery in downtown Quito. Paul is finishing the plates for the forthcoming Ecuador field guide coauthored by Robert Ridgely and himself. We had a wonderful dinner that evening at Friendship Heights. I stayed up until past midnight working on my field notes. We had to get up at 3:30 a.m. in order to get to the airport on time. Our flight left at 6:00 a.m. and it was necessary to arrive well over an hour before takeoff.
Other birds heard only or not seen by me (but seen by others) during the day:
EARED DOVE
SPARKLING VIOLET-EAR h
VIRIDIAN METALTAIL
STOUT-BILLED CINCLODES
GRASS WREN
GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN h
GLOSSY FLOWER-PIERCER
PLAIN-COLORED SEEDEATER
Some final thoughts:
Ecuador cannot be birded in just one or two trips. Although the country is relatively small (Colorado-sized), it has an incredible diversity of habitats. It has close to 1/6 of the world's bird species. I saw 250 lifebirds (and heard many, many more). Our trip was intended to introduce us to birding in Ecuador with the full expectation that we would be returning several times in the future. I can recommend birding in Ecuador highly. There are some truly amazing birds to be seen. Birding is generally inexpensive in South America with the possible exception of airfare (which can be significantly reduced if you shop around). I cannot recommend highly enough our guide, Robert Jonsson. We will use his services in the future.
I saw more tanagers, hummingbirds, and toucans than I expected. I was hoping to see at least 100 new birds, thus my goal was easily met. If we had done the trip without a guide, my goal would have been much more difficult to attain. The forthcoming publication of Ridgely and Greenfield's should greatly enhance Ecuador's appeal to birders everywhere. Please feel free to email if you have any questions.
Eric Shaw
eshaw@rocketmail.com