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U.S.A. -- Hawaii –
Kaua’i & Maui
08 - 20 January 1998
by Genie Silver
My husband and I were in Maui
January 8-14 and in Kaua'i
January 14-20. Although not primarily a birding trip, I did a lot
of birding and wanted to file the following report.
First, re: guides, the two little ones that are most helpful are
Douglas Pratt's "Pocket Guide to
Hawai'i's Birds" and the Hawai'i Adubon's "Hawaii's Birds." The former
gives 12 Birding hot spots in Hawai'i -- we went to all Pratt listed in
Kauai and Maui --and told what birds to expect to see at each place ( a
little overly optimistic in a couple of places!). The Audubon is
more like a Peterson's guide in that it gives distribution, voices,
habits and description. If you want to invest the $40 (or have a
friend who can lend it to you) take along Pratt's et al, "The Birds of Hawaii and the Tropical
Pacific" -- it is the most in-depth and has the best pictures
and descriptions of the birds. When birding I left this book back
at the hotel but used it at night when I was compiling my bird list for
the day and wanted to spend more time learning about the birds.
You can get all 3 from ABA or at the Borders Books on Maui and Kaua'i
-- I managed to drop the Audubon guide while bounding across boulders
in a waterfall and was happy I could get another on the island,
especially since I had borrowed it :-)
Maui
Birds seen:
Northern
Cardinal
Cardinalis cardinalis
Pacific(Lesser)Golden-Plover
Pluvialis dominica
Spotted
Dove
Streptopelia chinensis
Zebra
Dove
Geopelia striata
Common
Mynah
Acridotheres tristis
House
Finch
Carpodacus mexicanus
Nutmeg
Mannikin
Lonchura punctulata
Japanese
White-eye
Zosterops japonicus
Gray
Francolin
Franclinus pondicerianus
Great
Frigatebird
Fregata minor
Ruddy
Turnstone('akekeke) Arenaria
interpres
White-tailed
Tropicbird Phaethon
lepturus
Black-crowned Night
Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Hawaiian Black-necked
Stilt Himantopus mexicanus
Hawaiian
Coot
Fulica alai
Cattle
Egret
Bubulcus ibis
Maui Creeper
('Alauahio) Paroreomyza
montana
'Apapane
Himatione sanguinea
I'iwi
Vestiaria coccinea
Common
Amakihi
Hemignathus virens
We stayed at the Four Seasons in Wailea and I birded the grounds early
mornings. In the gardens and around the pool you will find the
Japanese White-eye (it's ubiquitous), Spotted and Zebra Doves, Northern
Cardinals, House Finches, Common Mynah (also ubiquitous). There
is a pair of Gray Francolins that make a lot of noise and I found them
on the grassy lawn between the Four seasons and the Grand Wailea next
door. If you walk along the ocean (there's a paved walkway that
goes for miles) you can see Great Frigatebirds sailing above the
ocean. There's also, off to the right as you first reach the
Grand Wailea's grounds, a place where they put old plants and other
"debris" and here is where I found the Pacific Golden-Plover (on the
ground) and the Nutmeg Mannikin (in a tree).
Pratt mentions as a hot spot the Kanaha and Kealia Ponds -- we went to
both but you can see the Hawaiian Black-necked Stilts, the
Black-crowned Night Heron and the Hawaiian Coots much better and closer
at Kanaha -- it is easy to get to, near the airport and well marked on
the map the car rental place or hotel gives you. The Kealia Pond
is also on the map, it runs along Highway 31 -- I think Pratt is
correct when he says a spotting scope would be helpful there.
For forest birds the best place is Hosmer Grove in Heleakala National
Park. Once you get to the park, it's just past the entrance kiosk
to the left. There is a short trail that winds around and there
are a lot of Koa trees where you can find the 'Apapane and I'iwi
hanging out near the top of the trees. The I'iwi is the most
exciting bird to see, especially in the morning sun. It is as
bright red as a Scarlet Tanager and when in flight the black wings and
the crimsom red body make for a dazzling display. Once they stop
to suck nectar out of the Koa's haole ( whitish-yellowish pompon
flowers) you can see their striking orange curved beak. (A good
paperback book on the Hawaiian trees and their flowers, Angela Kepler's
"Trees of Hawaii," can be purchased at the ranger stations in the
national parks.) The 'Apapanes are identifiable because they are not as
deep a red as the 'I'iwi and they have white undertail coverts which
are very visible. You'll more readily hear and see the 'Apapanes
than the I'iwis.
There's a picnic area at the grove and since the ranger said the Common
Amakihis liked to eat the crumbs from people's sandwiches there, we
went there to have our picnic lunch. Perched on a tree right near
where we sat down was a Maui 'alauahio -- the Maui Creeper, but it does
not creep! It didn't move for several minutes. The Common
Amahikis showed up on a stump right near us, and later, a banded one
was so engrossed eating bread crumbs on the ground from another table
that I was able to take several close-up pictures.
Although we did not see a Nene in Maui, the ranger said one hangs
around park headquarters(7,000' elevation). Up at the top of the
crater, a man asked about a bird he'd seen driving on his way up and
the ranger at the Sun Visitor Center identified it as a Chukar.
You can get a Halekala National Park Birdlist from either the ranger.
A couple days a week, there are ranger led hikes leaving from Hosmer
Grove and exploring for several hours the woods and ranch land around
the grove. A birder we later spent a day with on Kauai said there
is a possibility of seeing the Akohekohe on these hikes. We were
not able to go on the hike because we were driving to Hana the next day
when the hike was scheduled. So, if you are interested in this
hike call the Park headquarters first - 808-572-7749.
The infamous road to Hana (600 curves in 30 miles, 54 stone bridges,
most one-way and with waterfalls) yielded no great birding -- we did
take the hike on the Waikamoi Nature Trail and heard a lot of birds,
but didn't get a good look at them. If you go all the way to the
picnic area you will be treated to thick bamboo groves and their
clacking. The friend who lent me the Audubon guide had written in
it that he had seen the Red-billed Leothrix on the road to Hana, but I
had no such luck.
Hana is a very green, hilly, quiet eden and we stayed at the most
relaxing Hana Maui Hotel on a ranch of 1000s of acres and hard by the
sea. The dramatic Ironweeds along the ocean rocks are very
romantic -- like weeping pine tress - you can often find the Japanese
White-eye in them. While in Hana I saw the Pacific Golden-Plovers
and Ruddy Turnstones on the lawn at the hotel. the House finches
there have orange, not red coloring. Great Frigatebirds and
White-tailed Tropicbirds soared above the ocean at the Hana Bay
beach. You can also spot the Great Frigatebirds and White-tailed
Tropic birds from the Ranger Station at 'Ohe'o Pools - 10.6 miles past
the center of Hana.
Kaua'i
Birds seen:
Common
Mynah
Acridotheres tristis
Red
Junglefowl
Gallus gallus
Pacific
(Lesser)Golden-Plover
Pluvialis dominica
Japanese
White-eye
Zosterops japonicus
Melodius Laughing Thrush
(Hwa-mei)
Garrulaxcanorus
Northern
Cardinal
Cardinalis cardinalis
Red-crested
Cardinal
Paroaria coronata
White-rumped
Shama
Copsychus malabaricus
'Apapane
Himatione sanguinea
'I'iwi
Vestiaria coccinea
'Anianiau
Hemignathus parvus
Kaua'i
Amakihi
Hemignathus virens
'Akeke'e
Loxops caeruleirostris
'Akikiki (Kaua'i
Creeper)
Oreomystis bairdi
Kaua'i
'Elepaio
Chasiempis sandwichensis
Erckels'
Francolin
Francolinus erckelii
Cattle
Egret
Bubulcus ibis
Western
Meadowlark
Sturnelia neglecta
Black-crowned
Night-Heron
Nycticorax nycticorax
Hawaiian
Coot
Fulica alai
Hawaiian Common
Moorhen
Gallinula chloropus
Hawaiian Black-necked
Stilt
Himantopus mexicanus
Hawaiian Duck
(Koloa)
Anas wyvilliana
Hawaiian Goose
(Nene)
Nesochen sandvicensis
White-tailed
Tropicbird
Phaethon lepturus
Laysan
Albatross
Diomedea immutabilis
Red-footed
Booby
Sula sula
Great
Frigatebird
Fregata minor
Zebra
Dove
Geopelia striata
Spotted
Dove
Streptopelia chinensis
Kaua'i is the island where Jurassic Park, Raiders of the Lost Ark and
South Pacific were filmed -- the green spiked mountains and cliffs
(pali), numerous waterfalls, Waimea Canyon, Na Pali Coast, white sand
beaches with surfers at many of them riding big waves, well, it makes
for fabulous scenery. It is rainier than Maui, especially the
northern part near the Na Pali Coast where we stayed.
Our first hike was on The Kalalau Trail from Ke'e Beach to
Hanakapi'ai(4 miles round-trip) -- the scenery of the cliffs and water
are sensational, but the red dirt is very slick and slippery, wear good
hiking boots and see if you can find a sturdy hiking stick to take
along. It was along this trail that I found a solitary Melodius
Laughing Thrush in the understory. Lots of Japanese White-eyes as
usual. Further on the trail, I found a White-rumped Shama high
up, perched on a barren tree limb. They also often perch on the
trailhead sign, and once back from our hike, we saw one there.
After we crossed the waterfall (not easy, where I dropped my friend's
book in the water) and got to the beach we rested under three Hala
trees and a Red-crested Cardinal flew in and waited on a branch, I
think to see if we'd feed him. Later at our hotel my husband was
eating breakfast outside and a Red-crested Cardinal landed on his table!
The fullest and longest day of birding we spent with bird expert David
Kuhn in the Koke'e State Park. You can call David at 808-335-3313
to arrange for a birding trip -- it's a fun day, we saw all seven
species he said we would, and it's an adventure. David moved to
Kaua'i with a large group of friends nine years ago, most of them
stayed and have made their life on the island -- he's an interesting
man who can tell you alot about the flora and fauna on the islands, and
the history of many birds there.
On our drive up to Koke'e at around 8:30am we saw the Erkels' Francolin
and again coming down the road around 4:30pm -- they are on the side of
the road (and crossing it).
We met David at 9 and drove to the Pihea Trail which we hiked 6 miles
round-trip into the Alaka'i swamp. Although it was foggy and
misty on our way in, coming back, it was clear and sunny and we had
great views of Mt. Wai'ale'ale -- the wettest spot on earth --
and the Kalalau Valley from the Pu'u Okila lookout. David pointed
out a couple of Hump-backed Whales in the far off ocean down
below. You can also get a clear view of Ni'hau, the forbidden
island -- it is a privately owned Hawaiian island and if you land on
its shores, you will be asked to leave.
David has a secret spot on a hidden trail off the main trail (he has it
well camouflaged but was worried wild pig hunters had been using it )
from which one can find all the birds he had told me over the phone we
would see: 'Apapane. I'iwi,'Anianiau, Kaua'i Amakihi,'Akeke'e,
'Akikiki and the Kauai 'Elepaio. The spot overlooks many native
as well as exotic trees -- the I'iwis, Amakihis and 'Apapanes
especially liked the red Lehua blossoms of the native 'Ohi'a
trees. (Kepler writes in her book on Hawaiian trees, "Note the
presence of the 'Ohi'a lehua whenever you are above 3,000 feet
elevation . . sacred in olden days . .'Ohi'a lehua
was used only for carving temple images and war gods" p.32.) It was a
sunny afternoon and when one of the 'I'iwis flew across the valley in
front of us, David exclaimed "Merry Christmas!" They really are bright,
bright red and the contrast in flight with the black wings is something
to see. The birds also liked the 'Olapa trees.
We spent at least an hour at this pleasant place and had delicious
sandwiches, which David had made of local avocado and ahi (yellowfin
tuna). After we left there (and David added more thorn bush
material and dead branches at the start of his special trail to improve
the camouflage) we hiked and birded further into the swamp, crossing
streams and waterfalls -- in all, we saw about 50 'Apapanes, 12 'I'iwis
(the most David had seen in awhile), 4 Japanese White-eyes, 2
White-rumped Shamas, 10 'Anianiaus, 15 Kaua'i Amakihis, 16 'Akeke'es, 3
'Akikikis (this was the hardest bird to find and see well), and 4 adult
Kaua'i 'Elapaios and 2 juveniles.
This was a long but exciting day. We didn't get back to the
trailhead 'til after 4. But if you are serious about finding
these native forest birds, it's well worth it to contact David.
The next day it rained all day on the northern part of the
island. At about 4pm we drove to Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge
-- drive past Princeville and just after the bridge on your way to the
town of Hanalei (where Puff, the magic dragon, is from) turn left onto
the paved road. You will see a lot of Taro fields off to your
right. We got out and birded here, but you are not supposed to do
this (we didn't know better at the time) -- instead, continue down the
road a mile or so and there are new trails that have recently been cut.
We were there an hour or so and saw many Hawaiian Ducks, Coots, Stilts
and Moorhens (a very secretive bird, it hid under big Taro leaves, and
made a lot of croaking and creaking noises). We also saw lots of
Cattle Egrets, a few Black-crowned Night Herons and I found a Western
Meadowlark by its singing -- I had never seen one but have a clock my
son gave me that has a different bird every hour with its song on the
hour and I knew the song from the clock. It was perched on a post
at the far end of the Taro fields.
Our last day in Kaua'i we went to the Kilauea Point Lighthouse -- also
a national wildlife refuge. The Laysan Albatros are now mating
and beginning to nest there. There were hundreds of Red-footed
boobies on the cliffs and in the trees. We saw a few White-tailed
Tropicbirds and Great Frigatebirds out over the water. The
Red-tailed Tropicbirds don't arrive until late February and the
Wedge-tailed Shearwaters left in November. We took the guided
walk led by a volunteer -- it's about an hour and a half long and you
need to call the lighthouse and sign up for it in advance (we got the
phone number from our hotel , The Princeville, and I'm afraid I don't
still have it) -- and got to learn the Nene dance. You flap your
arms up and down when the Nene flies at you, which they do at this time
of year because they are beginning to nest. The walk takes you
off the beaten trail and you may not see too many more birds than you
would if you just walked up to the Lighthouse (except for the Nene,
which does not hang around the lighthouse) but you see some
breathtaking views from look-out points in the acres around the
Lighthouse. We did hear and see more Western Meadowlarks on this
walk.
It's hard to read the big Pratt book and see how many Hawaiian birds
are noted as extinct. For me, though, it was worth it to go there
and just see the amazing I'iwi as the morning sun caught it flying
between tall Koa trees. There's also great scenery, and fabulous
snorkeling on the islands (check out Molikini off Maui and Poipu Beach
on Kaua'i.
Genie Silver
Wynnewood, PA 19096
e-mail:regene@home.com
