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U.S.A. -- Hawaii –
Kaua’i
September 1997
by Linda Jones
Birding in
Paradise: Kaua’i in September
Like other islands far from the mainland, the Hawaiian have a
relatively small number of native species, that evolved in
isolation. Most of the endemic mountain birds are members of the
honeycreeper family, probably having evolved from one or a very few
species that somehow found their way there on their own long before the
original Polynesians first populated the islands. When new
species were brought in by humans, native plants and animal species
often had a hard time competing. Many honeycreepers are now known
only by the fossil record.
For birders, it can be fun to see so many exotic birds: Common Mynahs
are virtually everywhere. Other common introduced species are the
Spotted Dove, Zebra Dove, Japanese White-eye, Northern Cardinal, and
Red-crested Cardinal (sometimes called Brazilian Cardinal). But
one has to wonder what used to live in the lowlands before all those
foreigners came.
Several interesting sea birds nest on Kauai, affording a painless
pelagic experience for birders with weak stomachs. Kilouea Point,
site of lighthouse, is a great place to see both the White-tailed and
Red-tailed Tropicbirds, Great Frigatebirds, and others. A
Red-footed Booby colony is just across a narrow stretch of water, and
Wedge-tailed Shearwaters nest in burrows all over the Point. In
September, we were treated to the sight of Shearwater nestlings peering
out of the burrows. You can visit the lighthouse area on your
own, but be sure to also reserve a spot on their guided tour of the
booby colony. The hike location is off limits except on this
tour. You will see many other birds as well as boobies, and some
gloriously scenic views of the Point from a higher vantage. Seven
Nenes (endemic Hawaiian goose and state bird) were aggressively
guarding their territory when we were there, forcing us off the usual
route a bit.
Many of the endemic mountain birds had eluded us on previous visits to
Kauai because they are not common, and because they live in places that
are hard to reach. This time, the services of an expert birding
guide with a four-wheel drive were engaged. We met David Kuhn
(phone 808-335-3313) near the entrance to the Kokee State Park and set
out on a day of adventure. We hiked several trails, none very
difficult, tried vainly to keep dry (the higher you go, the more rain
you get), ate the lunch David provided in the car, and had the time of
our lives.
The Puuka Ohelo Trail in the Alakai Swamp took us through a koa tree
forest.
We saw the beautiful red 'I'iwe with its dramatically long orange
decurved beak, the Apapane, and the Elepaio, which are among the
easiest honeycreepers to see. The star of this first trail,
however, was the Kauai Amakihi; we saw both mature sexes and an
immature. This species has recently been split from the Common
Amakihi, which had what were once called subspecies on different is
lands until the split. The sexes were similar in appearance,
yellow and olive-brown, but the male had a longer beak. How many
other species have structural or proportional size differences between
the sexes? Usually when a difference occurs, it is limited to
plumage or overall size. (What do you think? Am I wrong?)
At the Phea Trailhead area in the Kokee State Park, we saw the
Anianiau, smallest of the honeycreepers, all yellow with no mask.
They were very active, flitting about in the ohi'a trees. We were
also treated to a display by an immature Elepaio. It spread its
tail and hopped very close, about five feet away, as if checking us
out. It is a small red, brown, black, and white bird with a
delightful white powder puff at the base of the tail. David
explained that only the young ones were so fearless. Later on the
Awaawapuhi Trail through ohi'a forest, we saw the 'Akeke'e (formerly
called Kauai Akepa), both sexes olive and yellowish with bright yellow
crown and rump, a black eye mask, and forked tail.
We said our farewells to David and started down the twisting mountain
road.
We stopped at the Puu O Kila Lookout, however, to take in the
spectacular Waimea Canyon. There, we also saw an Erckle's
Francolin, a good-sized introduced game bird that seems to prefer the
highlands. Once back at sea level, we acted on a tip from
David. We stopped at the Hanapepe airport (small planes) and
searched the fenced runway from the road with our binocs. After a
few false starts, the cry of "There it is!" announced the location of a
Bristle-thighed Curlew. Earlier we had seen numerous Pacific
Golden -Plovers on lawns at golf courses and gardens. Both of
these species breed in Alaska, winter on Pacific islands, and are not
normally seen in the lower forty-eight. Although September was
hardly wintery in Hawaii or California, it apparently was in
Alaska. The scientific name of the Curlew contains the word
element, "Tahiti," suggesting that the migrant was just resting up for
the next leg of its journey.
What can you see in September that you can't see much earlier?
The Pacific Golden-Plover and the Bristle-thighed Curlew, as well as
the Wedge-tailed Shearwater nestlings in their burrows. What you
will miss is the Laysan Albatross, which has a colony at Kilouea
Point. The adults leave in early summer and the fledglings follow
along in about a month when they get good and hungry. There are
always interesting birds of some kind, though, so if you get a chance
to visit Kauai in any month, don't forget to pack your binocs along
with your snorkling gear.
Linda Jones
Northridge, Calif
LJonesBird@AOL.COM
